FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: andyf on July 06, 2017, 07:50:16 PM
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Starting to get everything mocked up just to see how it all fits together. Spotted some minor issues so far with the throttle linkage and the fuel line routing but nothing that can't be fixed. Still a little unsure how the XFI box interfaces with the distributor and ignition boxes but I'm sure the instructions will make it all clear. All of the sensors are clearly marked and the connectors are unique for each sensor so that stuff is hard to mess up.
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I am not sure how well it is going to work for you but in the looks department, it's a 10.
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Liking this! :)
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Can you turn them around backwards like the 2x4 carbs were and run a modified factory linkage? I know you're a Mopar guy, so just trying to lend some help, but the carbs on these factory setups were turned around backwards, with the choke horns to the rear and the linkage on the pass side. The rear carb has the linkage attachment point closer to the centerline of the shaft, but I'm sure you could modify the linkage rod and make it 1:1 instead of progressive.
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I'm setting it up for the dyno at the moment so linkage needs to be on the driver side there. Not sure what will work best in the car, we'll have to deal with that when we get there. It is a 63 1/2 Galaxie with a 390 4bbl so we'll most likely use as much of the factory linkage as possible. I build linkage kits for a lot of dual carb applications so I'm thinking I'll be able to fabricate something that works but I might scout around for a factory setup to see if I can rob some parts from it.
The throttle linkage on the throttle bodies runs into the air cleaner so something needs to be trimmed. One problem with generic throttle bodies is the linkage tries to be all things to everybody.
I'm trying to come up with a clean solution for the fuel lines since this setup requires 4 inputs. I'm leaning towards a log manifold type design with AN fittings rather than hose barbs.
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Should be able to make a custom log pretty easily.
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That throttle arm looks identical to the 1850 and can be used with the factory linkage. I used 2- 1850s on my 63 427 and all I did was to drill the arms in the right place to match the OEM arms. It works perfectly
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Would love to do that on a tunnel ram on the dragster - that would be fun to play with.
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Is that TW factory or BBM?
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Is that TW factory or BBM?
BBM and it is a very nice quality casting. They had them in stock and shipped the same day we ordered. It has a tiny bit of casting flash that can be cleaned up in a few minutes otherwise ready to run right out of the box. No idea how well it works since I've never run one before but it sure looks bad azz.
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Should be able to make a custom log pretty easily.
Yeah I have a design ready to go to the shop. I started with an extra fuel rail I had left over from a previous conversion. Just need to do some drilling and tapping then send it out for anodizing and it should be ready to go.
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Is the engine still going to be 390 cubes or are you building something new for it? I have one of those intakes and was going to bolt it on to this 428 I'm building, but once I saw the air flow data I decided against it. Flows like a monster.
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Is the engine still going to be 390 cubes or are you building something new for it? I have one of those intakes and was going to bolt it on to this 428 I'm building, but once I saw the air flow data I decided against it. Flows like a monster.
Engine is 482 inches. Factory 427 block with SCAT/Mahle rotating assembly. I think the tunnel wedge intake will work with the 482 inches even though it is going to be a street cruiser type of car. Starting out with a semi-nasty XR292R-10 solid roller cam but might back that off to something tamer if we have to. Just have to wait and see how the EFI setup works with the cam. In hindsight I probably should've had Comp spread the lobes out a bit. The XR292 lobes might have been better on 112 or 114 centers. I'm sure the 110 cam will make good power on the dyno but it might be a handful on the street.
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That should be 75 degrees overlap, shouldn't be bad with EFI. It'll be strong!
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I'm thinking it will make 650+ hp on the dyno. If it was a big block Mopar with the same type of parts it would make 750 hp but everyone tells me that the FE motors don't make as much. Guess we'll find out.
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We'll see, lots of factors, but it'll run hard I am sure. Hopefully you'll be happy with the tunability and part throttle performance, that is the key for the EFI
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Is this system the Roots Blower EFI system (303002RB)??
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Is this system the Roots Blower EFI system (303002RB)??
No this is not a kit. It is a collection of parts that FAST thought would work. Dual throttle bodies, XFI sportsman ECU, dual sync distributor, E dash, FAST ignition (old Crane design), etc.
It isn't a complete kit since nobody makes a complete FE kit. I need to build the fuel log and the throttle linkage. The distributor gear needs to be changed for the roller cam. There is no oil pressure capability with the FAST kit for some unknown reason so that has to be solved. The linkage on the throttle bodies hits the air cleaner so something has to move or be modified, etc. Just the normal stuff when dealing with anything other than a Chevy small block!
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Thanks for the reply. I have used a FAST EZ-EFI on my F250 pickup and was very happy with it. They were very easy to deal with so I wish you the best of luck!! I will certainly be following along!!
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No this is not a kit. It is a collection of parts that FAST thought would work. Dual throttle bodies, XFI sportsman ECU, dual sync distributor, E dash, FAST ignition (old Crane design), etc.
It isn't a complete kit since nobody makes a complete FE kit. I need to build the fuel log and the throttle linkage. The distributor gear needs to be changed for the roller cam. There is no oil pressure capability with the FAST kit for some unknown reason so that has to be solved. The linkage on the throttle bodies hits the air cleaner so something has to move or be modified, etc. Just the normal stuff when dealing with anything other than a Chevy small block!
Well, if it was just a bolt on thing what fun is that? :) Said the guy that spent a year putting a Ford 351C in a RED.
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Did a mockup in the car. Looks like the easiest approach is to run the throttle bodies forward rather than backwards. I'll put the fuel rail on the passenger side and the linkage on the driver side. Most likely need to bend the factory throttle rod assembly to get it to line up correctly but that shouldn't be too big of a task. The throttle linkage itself will need to be fabricated.
Looks like a small hood scoop is required. Might be able to get by without a scoop but the hood would need to be modified to clear the air cleaner. Some of the ribs below the hood need to be modified for clearance. That kind of stuff is outside of my wheelhouse so it will need to go to a body shop.
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At least it looks better (and should work better) than what was in there. Appears to be a '69 intake with a 600 cfm Eddy carb. Distributor might be original, not sure about the rest of the stuff. Think the engine is a 390 but not positive. Car had a 427 in it for some time according to the last owner but no idea what happened to it.
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I'll assume the 100 more horse from a Mopar was a joke. >:(
I'll also assume the cable connected to the exhaust bolt is a Mopar carry-over. :o
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Does anyone know what the center to center distance should be for this intake? I get slightly different measurements depending on where I measure it. I'm going to go with 8.600 center to center unless someone knows better. Usually the factory used fractions rather than decimal but I don't think it is 8.625 so perhaps they went with the round number on this dimension.
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Can you turn them around backwards like the 2x4 carbs were and run a modified factory linkage? I know you're a Mopar guy, so just trying to lend some help, but the carbs on these factory setups were turned around backwards, with the choke horns to the rear and the linkage on the pass side. The rear carb has the linkage attachment point closer to the centerline of the shaft, but I'm sure you could modify the linkage rod and make it 1:1 instead of progressive.
The factory turned them around since the primary float bowl on a 4160 carb won't clear the distributor. The secondary bowl clears since it only has the metering plate. Throttle bodies are much smaller than carbs but these throttle bodies include the injectors so they are bit bulkier. I've mocked it up now with the distributor and it is close. I think it is going to work but I need to do a full mock up with the block to make sure that the distributor clears the throttle body when bolted in place. Air only throttle bodies would easily clear but then we would need to weld on the bungs which is a task by itself.
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Mocked it up in the block today and the throttle bodies clear the distributor by a small amount. Maybe a little over 1/4 inch so that is enough room for the spark plug boots to go on and not have anything rub. However, the air cleaner did not clear the distributor or the linkage so we had to add a small spacer between the air cleaner and the throttle body. That will raise the air cleaner enough that a hood scoop is now required. Might look into a crab style cap but not sure there is one that will fit the FAST distributor. The FAST distributor is probably the same as the Crane distributor since Comp Cams bought out Crane Ignition, but I'm still not sure that leads anywhere. Suppose I could buy a MSD crab cap and see if it fits.........
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Andy, now you have to paint the block because the great looking black bodies and valve covers make it look like poop. :P
Very cool setup and somebody needs to come out with one for the FE.
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You think I should paint the old engine so it looks better in the pictures? Sorry, that isn't going to happen. The old engine is just a core at best, might be junk for all I know. I'm not spending any time making it look good.
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One man's junk is another man' gold. ;)
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have you checked into Extrudehone intake?