FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Dot Heton on June 21, 2017, 02:20:07 PM
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A lot of guys run their lash tighter than the specs on the cam card. I'd like to run a little tighter, say .018 instead of .022. I'd like it a bit quieter. On another related note, I might have an adjuster that is backing out. Isn't there a new bolt kit that adds a nut to the stock Ford adjustable rockers?
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Nothing wrong with running the lash tighter. You'll add a small amount of effective duration.
I don't know about a locking nut kit for the adjuster. Is there anything wrong with a bit of loc-tite on the adjuster? Just a thought.
paulie
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More here:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/search?searchterm=oversize+adjuster&sort=match
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Nothing wrong with running the lash tighter. You'll add a small amount of effective duration.
I don't know about a locking nut kit for the adjuster. Is there anything wrong with a bit of loc-tite on the adjuster? Just a thought.
paulie
I had a Mercedes that was loose on one adjuster and i used locktite
and it worked fine
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I think the Crane adjuster conversion is the way to go.
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Don't know if the bolt size is the same but early Yblocks used a screw/locknut set up. Might be worth checking out.
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I looked at those Crane adjusters but didn't know if the thread was the same. I'll order them.
But in the meantime I'm going to measure the bolt stick out on each one and keep track of them.
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I've used the Crane lock nuts on factory rockers and they worked great. Used them for over 20 years on my old '68 Highboy. I tried looking them up on Summit though and couldn't find them anywhere. Maybe they quit making them?
Before I used those, I tried the Loctite deal, and it didn't work out so well for me. The first time I tried adjusting them, the Loctite broke apart into little shards of glass (that's what the pieces felt like). I had to take the entire rocker assemblies apart and thoroughly clean them or that stuff would have went through the engine and destroyed the bearings.
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The Crane stuff will work well, as for the second part of the question, you can run as tight of a lash as you want until the valves won't close when hot or cold (usually they get tighter hot, but people claim exceptions, I have never seen it) Damage happens when loose, not tight
Keep in mind, you technically get more lift and duration at the valve, so if valve clearance is tight, I'd check again before I went crazy. FWIW I run all of mine real tight because I like them quiet and tend to undercam a bit.
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The cam can sometimes have a lot to say about it. My old solid Crane cam in the 390 I had in my Highboy did not like it when I went even .002 tighter. The idle would just fall apart. Others have been fine at .003-.004. That cam was advertised as a "tight lash" design and only required .014/.016 and did not like tighter settings. It also did not like looser settings and would get VERY noisey if went .002 looser. I wouldn't feel comfortable going any tighter than .004 IF the engine accepted it. You need some wiggle room in heat cycles to keep things comfortable and not holding a valve off the seat.
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I've used the Crane lock nuts on factory rockers and they worked great. Used them for over 20 years on my old '68 Highboy. I tried looking them up on Summit though and couldn't find them anywhere. Maybe they quit making them?
Before I used those, I tried the Loctite deal, and it didn't work out so well for me. The first time I tried adjusting them, the Loctite broke apart into little shards of glass (that's what the pieces felt like). I had to take the entire rocker assemblies apart and thoroughly clean them or that stuff would have went through the engine and destroyed the bearings.
Adjusting a bolt/stud/nut with loctite on it makes no sense. The whole point of loctite is that you don't want it to move once it is where you want it. What did you expect? I'm gonna take away your participation trophy. :P
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Adjusting a bolt/stud/nut with loctite on it makes no sense. The whole point of loctite is that you don't want it to move once it is where you want it. What did you expect? I'm gonna take away your participation trophy. :P
When I was in my early 20's I did a lot of things that didn't make sense. What's your point? ;D
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Adjusting a bolt/stud/nut with loctite on it makes no sense. The whole point of loctite is that you don't want it to move once it is where you want it. What did you expect? I'm gonna take away your participation trophy. :P
When I was in my early 20's I did a lot of things that didn't make sense. What's your point? ;D
Okay fine. I hereby absolve you of all guilt related to said incident. Go forth and procreate freely and without remorse.
I'm keeping your trophy though.
paulie
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Crane adjusters are under $60.
They are nice, no issues..... I hate to talk smack about the factory parts, but I wouldn't even consider using the adjusters that came with the factory rockers, the $60 isn't worth the trouble.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i6/DeepRootsNursery/445/IMG_1833_zps1vdf2ixl.jpg)
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Drew, do I need to tap the threads for the crane adjusters?
What valve cover gasket is that? It looks nice a squishy, I need those.
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Looks like a Edelbrock gasket
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You don't need to tap or chase the threads in the rockers. The factory adjusters were designed to induce the interference. The Cranes will work fine out of the box. Some guys say you have to spot-face the rockers for the jam nuts, I didn't and they worked perfectly fine.
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There are oversize adjusters available for the FE.
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The last set of adjustables I had already had half of them oversized and were still loose. Oversized adjusters cost more than the Crane adjusters.
Spotface? No I did not. I spent several hours cleaning up the rockers tho, removing casting flash, etc. I did hit the area where the adjuster will go with a flap wheel so the adjuster would sit a lil better.
You do not *need* to tap the rocker arms, but I would take great care threading the Crane rockers in as I caught a burr once and cracked the adjuster where the allen wrench goes into it.
Yes Heo, Edelbrock gaskets, I was using double gaskets, so glued one set to the head and one to the valve cover. Grease in between, comes off easily. (poor man's valve cover spacers)
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Drew, what stands are those?
The oversize adjusters I was referring to are from Smith Brothers. I wouldn't put the Cranes in the same class. I'm looking to set up a nice HD factory adjustable valve train like that.
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I gotcha Scott, I thought you were talking about factory .003 oversize adjusters.
Precision oil pumps endstands, spacers, stands.
Studs, and crane adjusters.
I think the whole setup cost me about $450 (including core adjustable cores and new sealed power shafts).
I'll send you a facebook link from a post I did there in a minute, it gives a breakdown on all the parts, etc.
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These adjusters from DSC Motorsport are like the OEM style but .003 bigger. That should compensate for the wear in your rocker.
http://www.dscmotorsport.com/Cylinder/index.htm
http://www.dscmotorsport.com/asp/Products/popup_PartDetails.asp?PartID=418