FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Galaxie352 on February 23, 2017, 09:42:19 AM
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Hi. What could causing the engine to burn oil on passenger side after intake swap ? I have teared it appart again, and the intake gasket seems fine. I got the print o seal gasket, have readed that i should stayed away from those gaskets. I am trying to attach a photo of the head from the passenger side, you could see that sylinder number two is flooded with oil, same on the intake port. 1,3 and 4 have also oil inn the ports, but not that much. It lookls like it have just poored oil down the valves. Also, i was able to take a test drive before disamble intake and head again. When accelerate, i hear a sound from right side of the engine, like a vakum leak. The car have been missfiring badly, have been fooling around with coils and carb, but guess i have the problem around here some place =)
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First things first....
Something majorly wrong with your valve springs. They should all look like the second pair from the left.
What do the valve seals/guides look like under the other springs?
As far as pulling oil from an intake issues, you can narrow it down like this:
If your intake valves have oil on them, then it can come from 3 spots: 1. Down the valve guide (you will see oil coming down the stem from the guide. 2. From the intake gasket. Most likely the intake port will be oily but the intake manifold runner will be dry. 3. Pulling oil into the intake manifold from a misbehaving PCV valve. This is probably unlikely in your scenario since it seems to be related to one side only.
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If you think oil is getting into the intake ports, check your clearance all around the intake manifold, including the ends. If you are using cork or rubber on the ends, they may be the cause of clearance issues, use a bead of sealer instead. The intake may be milled at the machine shop to get the proper clearance if necessary. If clearances are OK, you could try loosening the head bolts, retorque them to 20 or so, take the intake bolts on the head to 20 or so, then alternate both in the proper sequence to full torque. This may help seat your gasket.
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I also agree that the valvesprings look wrong...valve guides may be toast, worth checking.
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Yepp, i agree with the spring. Did not mention it too se what the respond was. The engine was rebuilded some years ago.The head on the driver side also have the valve spring wrong way. What can happend with a valve spring that is turned the wrong way ? What about the rocker arm shaft turned 180 wrong way, causing the oil hole not too align and floating the head with oil ? First time cranking i noticed that there was alot of oil on the passenger head but not the driver head ? Yepp, also used the cork seals on each end, tought it will be fine. The one in the front have already startet to leak. Will use some sort of sealer next time. I also have bad compression on number 3 and 4. 3:90psi 4:75psi. 1 and 2 have 135 psi. Considder too take the whole engine out, since it also leaks some other spots..
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You can't really turn a valve spring the wrong way. The coils are bunched up towards the top. Something has severely damaged them.
A rocker shaft turned 180° won't flood a cylinder head either. Some rocker shafts do have a second set of holes that need to face towards the intake manifold and that needs to be checked.
The way your valve springs look, I'd take a long, hard look at the valves.
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Will do =)
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dang !! That's what a coil spring looks like after someone heats it up with a torch to make a Low Rider
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:'( :'( 8)
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Aww c'mon guys, maybe y'all need a refresher course... those are those new progressive rate valve springs, 80# closed, 600# open over the nose. :o :P ;D
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You can only see the top half of the springs in the picture. Are the ones that look "normal" have the close coils on the bottom? If they are the ones in the picture with the close coil at the top are on upside down. My old man showed me that 40yrs ago. Ford made springs like that. Close coil went towards the head. If the normal springs don't have the close coils then yes there's a major problem there.
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Valve springs should have evenly spaced coils. Coils should never be that close to each other, unless they are at open lift. The coils on most of his springs are pretty much touching each other when the valves are closed. Not normal.
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Here you have a picture of driver side intake port. You can see the spring inn the back, and it have the close coils facing down. Its the same on the passenger head that you have seen. Close coils upp, and some facing down.
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So, did fords come with this spring in 1965 ore should all be with equal spacing between the coils ?
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Is there any "stock" replacement aluminium heads out there ? I am going to the machine shop on monday with the heads. And, if the price will be high, maybe i should buy a pair alu heads.
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Make sure your new valve springs match your cam requirements.
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B Links is slightly mistaken on this one: Stock HD damped springs look like that, with variable coil spacing.
The close coils should be on the bottom to reduce un spring weight. The idea is they have looser seat pressure, but gain open pressure as the spring compresses.
THis has nothing to do with your oil issue.
The valve guides and/or seals may be shot.
Also, if the rear drain back holes are not well draining down into th eblock, they may hold oil into the heads.
A decent refresh of the heads should be between $400 and $800. Id fix them up stock. You can get valves with 0.017 larger stems to fit cleaned up valve guides; much cheaper than installing new guides, and last longer too!
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Thanks :D
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I have never seen valve springs like that, but thanks for the correction. I was assuming that they were new/aftermarket springs and that they had seen a rough life. :)
To the OP: If your oil consumption didn't start until you removed/replaced the intake, then chances are that it's a gasket issue. I don't know who the brainiac was that designed the FE intake ports/gaskets to be under oil, but they need to be smacked around a little bit.
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My pistons have always been a little wet. But it got worse after swaping two-four barrel intake. I Will have them rebuild anyway.
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Did you use cork end gaskets?
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Yepp, and i Will not use them Next time. I also used some new arp bolts. And the print seal gasket.