FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: CaptCobrajet on February 19, 2017, 05:25:56 PM
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New Street Pro Port! I revised the "street version". Still a stock location, 1.400 wide MR flange, still 175cc runner, 2.200 valve in the test port.
.100 105
.200 184
.300 237
.400 284
.500 316
.600 332
.700 338
Still the same old stingy bench. New chamber helped some. Working on a stock location exhaust also, as many guys don't want to have to buy my flange and change it on their header.
That intake port is 10 to 20 better than before everywhere, and no additional volume or cross-section. Excited here this week!
I plan to offer 2.04, 2.100, and 2.200 sizes of this design. The smaller ones will flow a little less, but will be really good on the smaller inch stuff. The 2.200 will no doubt exceed 800 hp affordably. Best ever with the old Street intake port was 785 hp.
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Those are some nice number s for sure Blair , looks like killer on the street .. Bud
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Congrats BP! FE evolution continues. Bruce
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Are these heads different from the "small fe" head you had mentioned a while back?
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That's it......same port as the 2.200 valve, but reduced according to valve size. The port will get smaller as the valve throat gets smaller.
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Pretty impressive increase, especially for no increase in port volume. I can't imagine how much time it takes to sneak up on these improvements. I'm curious, do you digitize then CNC once you get the port design down or is each head done by hand?
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He'd prolly have to kill us if he told us Doug. ;D
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Ha ha.......no hits out on Doug......yes, I took the previous version, ground a little, filled a little, had a new cutter made with slight changes. It is really surprising how little difference there is, yet changed in the right places.....makes a significant difference. The prototype port then gets digitized, and programs are created from that map. A porter can spend all the time tweaking one port....then make it repeatable. The CNC machines made high-end head work affordable versus hand labor. There is so much material to remove in a Pro Port casting, it would be a huge job to port 16 holes by hand. Light touch-up and mild porting is still feasible in some heads and in some cases, but for big stock removal, the CNC is the only practical answer.
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Marc, I've seen, and Blair was kind enough to show me, some of his guarded secrets....and you'd have to kill me before I told anyone ;D
I was wondering if you filled and reworked until you found what worked. I couldn't see grinding up half a dozen heads until you found what actually worked. Basically, it's a sacrificial head. I'm not even going to ask or guess the amount of man hours that it takes to accomplish something like this. We're not even talking hours here, more like years and sometimes decades of work. It puts it in perspective about what a bargain you're getting anytime you purchase parts of this nature.
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Is a pro port a head,basically un done head the designer can make it whatever he wants. Is this what Keith craft starts with. A blank head for the stage 2.
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I believe the one just above is from Feline-y. :)
KS
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This place needs a non-automotive sub-forum.
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Working on a stock location exhaust also, as many guys don't want to have to buy my flange and change it on their header.
Hey Blair, I have seen a pic of your modified exhaust port, and a header that was also modified to accommodate it. But from this statement I gather you offer a custom flange that fits your current exhaust outlet? I would like to run large ( 2 inch ) header on my truck motor, but those are hard to find, so I figure I will have to bite the bullet and try to make my own. If you offer a flange that would save some time for sure.
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Hey Joe, I actually have a new exhaust port that has not been in anything other than my test head. There will be a flange available from me that fits the new port. I had one for the previous port also. I also am working on another exhaust port, that can use the stock exit location at the flange. Obviously, it will not be quite as good as the relocated port, but it will be very respectable in the "normal" location.
Consider your tube size carefully. Even with big inches, a 2" primary might not be your best choice for a truck application. If you build custom, a two or three step design might be very effective. A 1-7/8 with a merge type collector is also something to ponder....
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Good to hear that a 1-7/8 header will work, the header I really like is a try-y design with 1-7/8 tubes.
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I would steer you towards a four-into-one with very long tubes. You want torque....... the tri-Y will not deliver. 36 to 40" primaries. Steps are better....1-7/8 for about 12 inches, then 2" to the collector for a truck/torque combo.
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Thanks Blair, I will see if I can get a set like that.
Did you get my email?