FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Bruce R. on January 14, 2017, 06:19:31 PM
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Got a 66' 352 , putting it into a 55 Mercury , also using a 4-spd overdrive trans. and original rear for interstate highway flying. I'll have a pretty good overall weight reduction and 55 more horsepower than the 292. I was thinking that I could maybe pick up an additional 50 or so horsepower with a cam and intake. I'm looking at the Summit brand cam kit, 216 duration, 533 lift, and probably an Edelbrock Performer. Id be happy to have some opinions, advice, alternatives, etc. Thanks!
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I'm personally a big fan of the 352. My current version is running a Comp 270S (CL33-244-4) grind (need adjustable rockers for that) with a 750 CFM Edelbrock Performer on an iron manifold. It runs strong and has a nice muscular idle.
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For reference that cam's specs are Mechanical Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 270/270, @ .050 224/224, Lift .540/.540
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I know this is a FE forum, but that 292 Y block can be built today with aluminum heads from Mummert, aluminum intake, and aluminum timing cover to reduce the weight, and get an honest 400 hp for street duty on premium fuel. Lots of options if you have not already installed the 352. You can even stroke the crank ($350.00) for up to 317 cubic inches, or go with a 312 crankshaft stroked for 330ish cubic inches. Joe-JDC
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Parts for the 292 are too hard to find around here and way too expensive, I also really want to lose that huge cast iron automatic. I've already got the 352 and halfway through the rebuild, it's going in ! Anyone know of headers that will fit my chassis with an FE in it ??
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Welcome Bruce.....cool project. I like it. I think I'd try a different intake. The Performer is a single plane intake and with your combo I think you'll be sacrificing some low end torque. You might consider something like an unported P.I. or similar. Jay's book would shed some light here.
What kind of head does this 352 have? Probably C4-G castings. They respond well to a set of CJ sized valves. Which would help you run a Performer intake. In case you already have it.
Neat project Bruce.
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Performer is not a single plane intake. Performer 390 and Performer RPM are dual plane intakes. Joe-JDC
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My bad, Joe....Thought I read Port-O-Sonic somewhere. Probably something from ten threads ago that was still in my head. :-[
I think the Performer would work well with your combo, Bruce. I don't think I'd port it at all. Unless you do the heads with CJ valves. Then I'd give it a generous port match.
What kind of carb are you thinking, Bruce?
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Welcome Bruce.....cool project. I like it. I think I'd try a different intake. The Performer is a single plane intake and with your combo I think you'll be sacrificing some low end torque. You might consider something like an unported P.I. or similar. Jay's book would shed some light here.
What kind of head does this 352 have? Probably C4-G castings. They respond well to a set of CJ sized valves. Which would help you run a Performer intake. In case you already have it.
Neat project Bruce.
head number is C6AE-R what's an unported P.I. ? Friend of mine has a single plane manifold for $ 200., I think he said it was called a Streetmaster, but he doesn't reccomend I use it, something about being no good at low RPMs.
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What's the story on the valves on these things ? I had to pay someone else to grind my valve seats , I didn't have a pilot to fit the stinking things,
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My bad, Joe....Thought I read Port-O-Sonic somewhere. Probably something from ten threads ago that was still in my head. :-[
I think the Performer would work well with your combo, Bruce. I don't think I'd port it at all. Unless you do the heads with CJ valves. Then I'd give it a generous port match.
What kind of carb are you thinking, Bruce?
. I'm intending on using the original 66 carb.
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[/quote]head number is C6AE-R what's an unported P.I. ? Friend of mine has a single plane manifold for $ 200., I think he said it was called a Streetmaster, but he doesn't reccomend I use it, something about being no good at low RPMs.
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Not sure why your friend thinks the Streetmaster would have poor low end power. I bought a new Streetmaster in 1976 shortly after they first came out, and they were advertised a low RPM RV style intake. I modified my Streetmaster with the instuctions provided from Edelbrock, and used it on my 12 second 390 66 Fairlane GTA. I have also used them on my 70 428CJ 70 Mach 1, and even my low 10 second 428 Fairmont. Jays FE intake book showed the Streetmaster to be a very good choice for many FE applications. If you do get the Streetmaster, hopefully the 4 special intake bolts are with it. Due to the tight space around the # 2,3,6,& 7 intake runners, Edelbrock supplied 4 special bolts, with a small 7/16" bolt head. They look like really long header bolts. As for headers, maybe give Stan at FPA a call, I bought a pair of FPA headers that were designed for the 57-59 Ford cars, they tuck in quite closely to the block, so maybe they will work with a earlier car as well. Chances are Stan would be able to tell you about that. Good luck.
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head number is C6AE-R what's an unported P.I. ? Friend of mine has a single plane manifold for $ 200., I think he said it was called a Streetmaster, but he doesn't reccomend I use it, something about being no good at low RPMs.
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The P.I. intake is a dual plane aluminum intake that came on 428 Police Interceptors. But I think if you have a Streetmaster available it would work well too. As long as it hasn't been ported it will give you good port velocity with stock C6-R heads. The Summit cam you referenced with a fresh timing set should make for a nice cruiser.
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Got a problem, maybe. Got my heads back from valve seat grinding and I decided to measure my valve stem height with an indicator. I have a variance, from lowest to highest, of .075" with various heights in between. How much do the hydraulic lifters compensate for??? Should I dress all the stems to match, or dress them to something " middle-of - the - road ???
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Not good Bruce. It sounds like your valve seats were not cut to consistent depths. Me personally, I'd let a .020 variation go but .075 is just too much. You will have several lifters that will be close to collapsed. And your valve spring pressures are going to be all over the place also.
I would complain bitterly to the guy that did your heads and make him fix them.
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Not good Bruce. It sounds like your valve seats were not cut to consistent depths. Me personally, I'd let a .020 variation go but .075 is just too much. You will have several lifters that will be close to collapsed. And your valve spring pressures are going to be all over the place also.
I would complain bitterly to the guy that did your heads and make him fix them.
Ain't no fixing them now, too deep, the only fix for the heads is new seat inserts. I think I'll grab a pair of new valves from a buddy and see what that looks like, if I get acceptable results I'll just get all new valves. I initially was going to grind the stems to bring them within 10 thou. of each other but 75 thou. is such a large disparity that I won't have much stem above some of the keepers.
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Bruce, you might try running lash caps. They can be ground to different thicknesses to compensate for the different valve stem heights. You could also switch to an adjustable valve train, which would take out the different heights with rocker arm adjustments. Good excuse to get some roller rockers ;D
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New valves solve the problem, seems that the valve faces were grooved so deep that I had to cut too much off to clean them up. Gonna buy that Streetmaster on Sat.
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Whoa! wow, 0.075 is terrible. My heads always come back 0.015 variability or less on a budget build. you can get over-sized valve heads to push the valves into the chamber, you can also put in new seats if you have to. and of course touch up the valve tips. But if they are that low, the valve spring pressures are all over the map unless he used wildly different shims on each valve spring.
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Got the new valves, now my height is within 18 to 23 thou of each other. I'm ready to stick this thing together, just waiting on the mailman to deliver the cam kit. Had to rebuild that spacer behind the damper, bad groove where the front seal rode, turned it down in the lathe and made a sleeve and shrink fit it on then re-machined it.
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glad you fixed the spacer. A speedi-sleve would have made your life easier!
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glad you fixed the spacer. A speedi-sleve would have made your life easier!
Im a machinist, so it was a no brainer.