FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: FirstEliminator on September 13, 2016, 09:56:10 AM
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For my Colony Park 482 project I will be looking for a 427 block. There are a few options. I'm trying to determine which will be the most cost effective and most problem free. I know a guy that has a couple 427 blocks, one is hydraulic, but needs a sleeve. The other is for solid cam.
1. 427 hydraulic block, piston pin slid and contact cylinder wall. Perhaps fixable with a sleeve.
2. 427 block for solid cam.
3. BBM block.
My questions are:
The cheapest option is #1. If the block is sleevable, will a sleeve hold up well in a street driven stroker application?
#2 is a bit higher priced block. There is no need to run a solid cam in a mild station wagon build. Can the oil gallies through the lifter bores be drilled?
Or, spend the money and not worry about repairs by going with #3?
thanks,
Mark
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Nothing wrong with needing a sleeve. Everything will work perfectly fine.
No need to drill, just run a mild solid flat tappet. Gun drilling an engine block isn't cheap...
Aftermarket blocks are all out of stock right now. No one (to my knowledge) has any blocks in stock right now. Pond is out, BBM is out, Shelby is out, etc. If you're wanting to buy one soon, this may put a damper on buying a new block.
With the original blocks, you have the ability to say, "Yes, it's an original 427..."
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Thanks for the quick reply Brent. Is there any issue to running a 4.25 crank in a 427 block? 5500 rpms would be the limit.
thanks,
Mark
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Absolutely not.
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BBM recently said that their next batch on iron blocks should be available the end of this month.
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Absolutely NOT dogging BBM, Pond, Shelby, etc., but I have heard that from every block manufacturer, every month, since the first of this year.
I understand a lot of it is out of their control, but it puts engines builders in a bad bind, and makes us look bad every time the customer calls and says, "So when's my block coming?"
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Personally I would be more concerned with how the original 427 blocks sonic check. I've even offered to pay for the sonic check if that's what it took not to waste money on a thin block. A sleeve isn't a big deal, if done correctly. Not every shop knows how to do it right, the pro builders on here can lead you in the right direction. Since you're starting from scratch the cam - valve train stuff is workable. If you do buy an original 427 block do not let your machine shop just blindly bore it .030 over, if they suggest that before checking anything walk away. The nice thing about the aftermarket blocks is they have very thick cylinder walls.
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For the street I'd go with #1 if it sonics good and your planning on a hydraulic roller. It would be a plus if it has not been bored past 4.250. As mentioned above...nothing wrong with a sleeve if it's done right. #2 block is good also with a solid flat tappet. I wouldn't drill the lifter galleys. But I like solid flat tappets on the street. Gonna surprise a few with that Colony Park. 8)
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A little surprise it what I'd like.