FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: Russ67Scode on July 26, 2016, 10:14:04 AM
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So here is my project 1967 Mustang GT original S code 4 speed with A/C . right now has roller spring perches frame connectors, Calverts mono leaf springs and Caltrac bars, 90/10 and 50/50 shocks.
Plan is to mini tub for a 11 or 12 inch tire. And put a cage in the car, for rear selection this is what I have a 3.70 gear,4.11 gear in a N case with a locker and a 4.57 gear with a locker. For transmissions I have a TKO 600 5 speed, a top loader and a CJ C6 transmission .
For engines I have a .030 390 with less Schnieder ported Edelbrock heads and a ported dual quad intake with AC AD carbs also I have an early 70s truck block and a non-CJ 428 block that's .030
So my question is do I use something I have add a stroker crank or go for a really big inch aftermarket block and use my top and components? Looking to get the car in the 10's. I don't drive this car much so Street part might be to run to the corner car hang out. I have two car trailers so limited real Street driving
Suggestions?
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Well you have more than enough "stuff" to run 10's.
Of course you will need all the safety stuff for the track to pass tech
for a SP car. Bar, belts, loops, trans and engine stuff.
If anything I would spend the money on shocks.
Like a high end QA1 adjustable.
One click will make a difference. It does on mine anyways.
You should be able to run 10's without the tub, but the look is hard to beat.
It will also decrease the valve of your hot rod if you cut it. :P
It will be cheaper to run the slush box at 10's than the clutch.
They just cost more and take more maintenance.
But the kool factor is very high with the clutch. ::)
Nice FB 8) 8) 8)
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Nice car! Here's my thoughts - the mini tubs and wider tires are totally unneeded, unless you just want the look of wider tires. Plenty of Stock & Super Stock drag cars running 9's and even 8's on 9" wide slicks and Cal Tracs. Dozens of other places you will need to spend the money. You didn't elaborate much on your goals - high 10's good enough or are you looking for low 10's? Is there a specific race event you might want to run, where hitting a certain number is advantageous? My racing buddy Bradley just went through much of this stepping his '67 Mustang bracket car up from running a best of 11.30's to now 9.90's and I would guess in the future he will go even faster. By NHRA rules you only need a roll bar to run 10.00 to 11.50, a roll cage for 9.99 and quicker. A cage is nice for chassis stiffness and safety. My friend had the cage put in his car a few years ago, before he really needed it because he liked the safety aspect and he knew eventually he'd want to go quicker. I ask the ET goal because high 10's are easily doable with a stock block, but low 10's are going to require enough HP that an aftermarket block would make more sense. My friends car makes a little over 700 hp ( stroked Windsor ) and is lighter than your car I'd guess, so you're looking at needing that HP level to get low 10's and 700 hp in a stock block FE is possible, but it may not last long. My friend went with an aftermarket DART Windsor block for the same reason. Your Edelbrock heads would likely get you in the high 10's, we'd have to know the flow numbers to know if they'd be capable of getting to that 700hp level. If you go automatic you'll most likely want a built C4 and not the C6. C6's are the "tanks" of the automatic world - practically indestructible, but heavy and will require more hp to drive than a similar C4. Again, if the goal is just high 10's then you could probably stick with the C6, low 10's a C4. Lot of people like the sticks, but I think the expense will be more. Jay Brown is working on a T56 stick conversion '68 Mustang ( Memorial day project ) a couple pages back here in the project section you might want to check out if you haven't already. You didn't mention the brand of the shocks you have, If your rear shocks aren't the Calvert adjustables I'd recommend them. Keep giving us feedback here and I can tell you more of what my friend did to get to the 9's.
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JMO,
but I believe A properly massaged and built Ford FE block, good cylinder wall thickness, reinforced mains, cross bolted, girdled, 3/4 block fill done properly, the basic oil mods, quality machine work, quality internals with quality balancing will live a good decent life at 700hp if properly maintained.
I think the FE block gets sold short far to often.
Again, it's just my opinion.
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Thanks for they replies , I always want to go faster !! Last "Street car " was a fox body Kaase headed 514 ci 460 ran 9.80's on the motor real 10 inch tires @ 3460 or 3640 lbs don't remember that was mid 1990's also had a 32 bantam ,Cleveland in it.
Shocks are comp engineering
So to get back to the ET question a low to mid 10's would be good for now , I have had this car for 26+ years I am not keeping it for resale so cutting it up won't hurt my feelings.
Thanks again
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I'm with ScotiaFE, don't tub it. Its worth too much as is (I'll trade you my J code to cut up)
10's are easy, I did that with a stock 427ci FE that only had .577 lift cam 2-660 Holley's no porting or aftermarket parts. (It did have tunnel port heads and about 12-1 compression)
C-6, 3000 stall and 4.56 gears
putting roll bar in my '67 clone along with 9x29 slicks and calvert stuff for a new stock eliminator car when I can get the time to work on it.
10 sec engine in bottom photo
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I could really use the stock seats , if that is something you would want to sell . Nice car , I like your stuff .
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I have the stock front seats and fold down rear seat up in the attic, they do need new upholstery.
I was thinking it would help the value if I sell one day but I'm not sure. How hard is a stock set to come by?
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my e mail is kradkins55@hotmail.com , if you would send me an e mail , I would like to talk with you . thanks ronnie adkins , altha fl. 32421
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You can reach me at
Rtlm@tampabay.rr.com
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So after these posts, email and talking to other people the mini tub is on hold. I have a guy that can put a cage in the car and make it virtually invisible from the outside.
So now the question is what engine to build? Do I bring the 428 + .030 or the truck block to one of the big three guys here and use the top end parts I already have or go with a dove aluminum and build a 496 ci
Then there is always the option of a 445 or 462 and bolt a Centrifugal blower. So many options so I guess I need to check just what a short block will run me. Any suggestions upper 500 to low 600 hp is the goal, looks like all the high HP cars have at least 11.5 or above static compression. So thoughts ? Like to hear thoughts from the big three here
Thanks Russ
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Man, I would not tub that car!! Calvert stuff will make it work just fine, less expensive, and keep the value up on the car. I'd urge you to use your 428 block, stroke it, and use a set of BBMs with my hand port upgrade. The 428 block will handle the power level better than a 390, unless you happen to have a 391/428 core block. You could get to a reliable 600 hp that would drive anywhere, and work with power brakes and your A/C. Combo is everything. The right recipe would make the car fun and reliable.
Blair Patrick
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2X on not tubbing it!
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Blair what would it cost me to cross bolt a mirror 105 block and bore it to 4.080 and all the usual oil mods and "normal" block prep
The 428 block is already .030 and has a mark in a cyl not sure how deep
I live in Florida so getting to you is a day drive,
E mail rtlm@tampabay.rr.com
Thanks Russ
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Unless you have 7000+ rpm on your mind, the crossbolts may be a good upgrade but not required. The 390 blocks split cylinders vertically when overpowered. The mains in a three web 390 will generally live longer than the cylinders will. Every high HP 390 I have ever done eventually split a cylinder. Only one pulled the main apart. I think 600 hp is the limit of the 390 cylinder cores. I think the 428s will go higher reliably. If I were you, why not sleeve the one hole a nice dry sleeve, and then just hone the others.... then buy pistons to fit the bore....less than a crossbolting exercise, and a good foundation....
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The 428 is not a CJ block will that change this thought path?
Thanks
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Blair here is the intake I really want any inside leads to this one
http://bearblockmotors.com/bbm-fe-intake-manifold/
Thanks Russ
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Unless you have 7000+ rpm on your mind, the crossbolts may be a good upgrade but not required. The 390 blocks split cylinders vertically when overpowered. The mains in a three web 390 will generally live longer than the cylinders will. Every high HP 390 I have ever done eventually split a cylinder. Only one pulled the main apart. I think 600 hp is the limit of the 390 cylinder cores. I think the 428s will go higher reliably. If I were you, why not sleeve the one hole a nice dry sleeve, and then just hone the others.... then buy pistons to fit the bore....less than a crossbolting exercise, and a good foundation....
So Blair, not to hijack the thread but,
What's your thoughts on a 428 A block like I'm putting together ? Cross bolt pro-gram mains, design concept's main stud girdle, .010 over bore, 1 sleave, 3/4 block fill, . If I did my homework and it's properly built do you Think this block could live for a while at 7800 rpm and 725hp ?
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Russ, those intakes are in production now. I have the prototype here now. They will be nice!
KB, you will definitely need crossbolts and studs for your goal, in my opinion.
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She's cross bolted and girdled, filled and all cylinders are over 125 min thickness at finished bore. I'm feeling good about it.
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Now I find this post ! is it too late to swap or do you think it would be better to stay with the victor with FI built in ?