FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: My427stang on July 22, 2016, 10:18:16 PM
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- Engine spins 5500-ish max
- 445 FE with SFT, 290lbs open at .588 lift
- Cam is 282/236 SFT Bullet grind
- New Harland Sharp bushed rockers
Which would you use? A set of HD shafts and no stands or end stands with new Sealed Power stock shafts? Price is right around 200 bucks either way
Leaning toward no end stands, just because the tins are nice long finger and I don't want to bend them up, but I also have no qualms running without them
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Preferably both h/d shafts and end stand supports but I know that doesn't answer your question lol.
I'd go with the H/D shafts.
Lots of broken stock shafts back in the day with pretty mild by today's standards hydraulic camshafts.
JMO.
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If you have factory shafts(new or in good shape), I would run them with end supports and save a few bucks. I currently run factory shafts with homemade end supports. I will have some better end stands coming from POP in a few days, but current setup works fine. I am running a somewhat mild hyd. flat tappet with 130-140 on the seat and 360lbs open. I run it to 6k every time I get the car out. Other than a failed rocker( also have some better replacements on the way), I feel stock shafts are sufficient.
Just my two pennies...
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Stands.
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My personal opinion is that you don't need either, but if my arm was pinned behind my back and I was forced to vote, I'd vote for stands. :)
Just dyno'd one yesterday, 440 inches, with a 243/249 @ .050", .600" hydraulic roller, 150 seat, 350 open. Factory non-adjustable rockers, rockers had been reground, new shafts (not HD) and I put a set of Doug's end stands on it. No problems to 6000 rpm.
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Stands.
I have seen a handful broken, bit never with end stands.
I don't think you can get the rigidity of end stands even with solid shafts. It is a math problem...
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I vote for stock shafts with end stands.
garyv
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I have to say I agree, I just hate to squish these pretty long finger drip rails :)
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End stands. Cut those tins LOL!
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I used
-factory rockers
-crane adjusters
-end stands, spacers, and stands from POP
-studs
-new sealed power shafts
Didn't break the bank, and I'm pretty sure it's 250% overkill.... so one less than to worry about.
The long tins wouldn't fit with the intake so I used the later tins and they fit with no modification.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i6/DeepRootsNursery/445/IMG_1445_zpsdfod42i6.jpg)
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I'm pretty much with Brent on this one. For a mild street build, with mild lifts, I don't think you'd need either. Except for having to upgrade to some Crane locking adjusters, I ran a totally stock system for 23 years on my Highboy's 390. Ran and used hard all its life and 5500 rpm was no stranger, that's for sure.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/68%20Truck/IMAG1401.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/68%20Truck/IMAG1401.jpg.html)
But now I'd likely go with some heavy shafts. After that long, the stock shafts have to be getting a bit weak, so no sense in pushing it. I just recently got a 445 stroker kit from Blair for the same engine, bought some heavy shafts from Summit, and the rest of the system will be going right back together. I expect another 20+ years of service, provided I live that long. 8)
Edit: I saw your lift is nearing .600. Mine was only .550. I'd probably consider the end stands with stock or heavy shafts at that lift and pressure.
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Ohh and if your concern is your long fingered tins, I'll give ya a set of them so you can cut those up instead.
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I use to run my "406" with a B cam to 7K with OEM rocker set up, but that was back in the days before Internet and paranoia. Now I've upgraded to P.O.P. heavy duty shaft but still the same aluminum stands but will probably only run up to 5.5K now with this Comp 282S cam and 9.7 compression. If it's a street car I think OEM is fine unless you need shafts like I did or you just want to spend money. Oh, I like my long fingered tins also.... JMO
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I was breaking stock shafts with aluminum stands 30 years ago at the track and on the street. Hydraulic flat tappet cams that were mild by today's standards. Bought my first end stand kit from old man Holbrook sometime around 1987. I see no reason at all to relearn that lesson...
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I broke several shafts to back in the 80's. Always right in the middle between the to center stands in the long span. Never broke a shaft on either end though. I'm sure there was alot of deflection at those points though.
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I haven't broken one in a long time, and the last one I broke was undoubtedly due to bad habits in tightening them down back in the late 80s/early 90s. It broke in the middle too. In fact, when my Mustang was a 433, I ran new stock shafts with stock adjustables and old school triple springs with some pressure, wasn't the right thing to do, but it hung in there
I'll likely go with stock shafts and end stands, BTW fekbmax, on your comment of both, this is an iron head 4x4 truck motor, although it may see 5500, it's rarely run hard.
Basically, it's a 200 dollar bill either way, and one thing I didn't realize is that the long finger tins wouldn't work with the RPM intake. I hadn't tried it yet, just assumed they would, and I have no qualms bending up a stock set of later tins!
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im sure you will be fine with new sealed power shafts and end stands. i would think thats the predominant combination out there with mild to medium performance engines. anythings better than 50 year old shafts. my whole reasoning in choosing the shafts was because of the combination you have. not a ton of spring pressure, a life under 6000rpm, i just was thinking with the HD shafts you wouldn't see much deflection on the ends in your combination and the shafts would be a good solid investment and help out some in that un suported center section.
hell, i been wrong before so no worries there.
Maybe save a a couple weeks lunch money and do both.. :D
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So when didya turn into a cheap bastard? ;D
I've broken every part of a stock rocker assembly, aluminum stands, shafts, even springs... 'cept for a rocker itself.
My first 427 was a Hi Riser and I used FPP shafts and solid spacers with stock rockers, but there were no end stands available. I ran Isky 8005A springs and had no trouble for years with a .600 lift cam.
I'd go with the shafts first so that when you DO go with end stands, you won't have to disassemble your whole rocker assembly later.
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So when didya turn into a cheap bastard? ;D
I've broken every part of a stock rocker assembly, aluminum stands, shafts, even springs... 'cept for a rocker itself.
My first 427 was a Hi Riser and I used FPP shafts and solid spacers with stock rockers, but there were no end stands available. I ran Isky 8005A springs and had no trouble for years with a .600 lift cam.
I'd go with the shafts first so that when you DO go with end stands, you won't have to disassemble your whole rocker assembly later.
The more I make the cheaper I get!
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The only rocker shaft I've ever broken was in my blown 312 in my '54 Customline. But it was the late afternoon of New Year's Eve Day while on a trip from the western side of Detroit to Anderson Indiana. The story is too long to tell here but I replaced the shaft and was only a couple of hours late. My girlfriend was not pleased. It's cold out after dark at the end of December.
All that said, my thinking is colored by the experience and the ONLY answer is HD everything. Your Tukhus, (Yiddish 'tokhes') will thank you. As I said, it's cold out.
KS