FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: Nightmist66 on July 17, 2016, 07:22:08 PM
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So I drove my car to the Meltdown Drags at Byron IL yesterday and raced it. I entered in the S/S class, so I could be with all the other FE Fairlanes and Galaxies. Had a great time and met a lot of nice guys, both on and off the forum. The car ran strong all day. I was fighting traction problems the whole day, otherwise car had great speed.
I was on my way home and not quite halfway when I heard a noise. It was a loud popping sound on accel. I thought at first that one of the header tubes where it bolts together, had come apart. I quickly pulled off to the nearest side road, which luckily was a few hundred feet and abandoned. I couldn't tell exactly what it was at first so I had dad sit in the car and start it while I listened. It was coming from the middle of the engine, at the carburetor. I pulled the air cleaner off and we restarted it. Sure enough, it was popping right out the carb. I thought maybe ignition, so I pulled the cap and the rotor and cap all looked fine. Next, I yanked the dist. and looked at the gear to see if the roll pin sheared. Nope. Then, I stabbed it back in and waited for a friend to give us a tow. It didn't seem like bottom end at all, so I figured probably valvetrain.
Today, I pulled the valvecovers off and saw the problem.
Snapped no.2 exh. rocker (These are and old set of Pioneers)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160717_110604_zpslrmqg0cd.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160717_110604_zpslrmqg0cd.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160717_110613_zpsxrwh4p6j.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/I see/jaredaebly/media/20160717_110613_zpsxrwh4p6j.jpg.html)
The piece of rocker with adjuster and lash cap were sitting snug as a bug between the valvsprings.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160717_110625_zpsmefqokip.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160717_110625_zpsmefqokip.jpg.html)
Here's one more.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160717_111640_zpsdzkpgd1g.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160717_111640_zpsdzkpgd1g.jpg.html)
Then, I saw some more disturbing news.
Hard to see, but the lifter had gotten tossed.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160717_113049_zpsu6jto9vy.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160717_113049_zpsu6jto9vy.jpg.html)
I tried to get a borescope down in to see, but not enough room with this intake ( Performer RPM) and a splash tray. Looks like I will be pullin the intake back off that I just installed a few weeks ago. >:( If the lifter is beaten up at all, it will be a good excuse to throw in some solids to pick up a little more rpm.
But hey, if parts ain't flyin, you ain't tryin! :)
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Those rockers look like they've been ground on? That worries me. Also check the #2 intake pushrod for straightness, often if the exhaust valve can't open to release the pressure the intake pushrod will bend trying to open against the built up exhaust. Congrats on making it to Meltdown though, I enjoyed watching some of the live streaming the last couple days.
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That's sure a random failure, especially with a juice cam. Flashback to the sea of adjustable rocker arms that we passed up yesterday?
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Kevin- Yes, the rockers were ground for extra pushrod clearance. I can't take credit for that, that is one of the things that I haven't changed since the motor was put together 25 yrs ago. I WILL be putting some FOMOCO factory adjustables back on. I will also check the other pushrod.
David- Yeah, that's what I thought too. The springs measured about 135-140lbs on the seat and about 360lbs open, so nothing too crazy. I have beat the thing severely for years and had it at the track last year and all the sudden it just breaks cruising down the road 55mph? ??? LOL, maybe I shoulda picked up some rockers yesterday and I might have driven it the rest of the way home. ;D
P.S. thanks for those valvesprings I got from you, they are a perfect match for that cam.
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Somewhat related sorta. I have wondered in the past if there is any possible benefit to grinding and polishing this type of rocker on the parting lines and such for stress relief, as you would on connecting rods. ?
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Are the billet steel Graham rockers still available any where ? Always thought they looked like a nice piece.
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/fekbmax/20160717_232019_zpsmwzrylgz.png) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/fekbmax/media/20160717_232019_zpsmwzrylgz.png.html)
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/fekbmax/IMG_1544_zps28euwqiw.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/fekbmax/media/IMG_1544_zps28euwqiw.jpg.html)
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Firstly.. congrats on a having a good time racing and driving there and back (okay, part way). The damage certainly could have been a lot worse however, much like you I'm disappointed that you had a rocker failure after only 25 years of abuse. :)
What is interesting to note for everyone is how small the cross section area is where the break occurred. Really not a lot of strength there for any kind of performance valve spring. I've never seen those "billet" rockers before but they look stout and also wonder what the availability is. At any rate, I'd suggest it's time for something more robust than even the stock Ford adjustable. No point in tempting fate one more time. Car looked good in the video btw...
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Firstly.. congrats on a having a good time racing and driving there and back (okay, part way). The damage certainly could have been a lot worse however, much like you I'm disappointed that you had a rocker failure after only 25 years of abuse. :)
At any rate, I'd suggest it's time for something more robust than even the stock Ford adjustable. No point in tempting fate one more time. Car looked good in the video btw...
Thank you very much. I feel the factory rockers should be sufficient for this mild cam. I will be adding some Erson's on my next build that will be a little more "robust". ;)
Just for the heck of it, here are the current cam specs:
Wolverine Blue Racer- hydraulic flat tappet
Lift .536int / .562exh
Duration @.050 224int / 234exh
LSA 110°
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I seen your run on the vid.
Car looks good. Good time also with lots of wheel spin.
Kind of a lucky break on the rocker. ::)
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Ditto on the thumbs up for driving there, racing, then driving back. It looks like a fun event.
When I saw that first shot I thought "Holy Cow, the first factory rocker I've ever seen break", then I saw that it wasn't a factory rocker. I'm really surprised you didn't see an oil pressure drop with a hydraulic cam and tossed lifter. Hopefully it didn't damage the rest of lobes and lifters on that bank, or worse, starve the bottom end bearings and damage them.
To answer FElony's question, the parting line is down the middle, so I don't think that it would do much good to eliminate and smooth that area. It's the same on factory rockers.
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Thank you Howie and Doug for the compliments.
Doug, I can remember right up until I shut the motor down, I still had roughly 20psi oil pressure at hot idle. Even after starting it very briefly to diagnose the problem. I don't think anything was starved. I will look at all the lifters when I pull them out.
Here's a random clip where someone caught my license plate :) https://youtu.be/mbV8x5H70VM
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Are the billet steel Graham rockers still available any where ? Always thought they looked like a nice piece.
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/fekbmax/20160717_232019_zpsmwzrylgz.png) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/fekbmax/media/20160717_232019_zpsmwzrylgz.png.html)
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/fekbmax/IMG_1544_zps28euwqiw.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/fekbmax/media/IMG_1544_zps28euwqiw.jpg.html)
Hey, that second photo looks familiar. Yeah, those are good rockers that would be really tough to break. Thor has been using the rockers in your second photo:
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s156/oldafretired/DSC_0476_zpsiiff4ozw.jpg)
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Also check the #2 intake pushrod for straightness, often if the exhaust valve can't open to release the pressure the intake pushrod will bend trying to open against the built up exhaust.
Like this?
#2 exh. left, #2 int. right
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160723_122301_zpssqifbmmq.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160723_122301_zpssqifbmmq.jpg.html)
Lifter that popped out
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160723_131155_zpsrnzj6zsg.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160723_131155_zpsrnzj6zsg.jpg.html)(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160723_131208_zpsluszeee7.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160723_131208_zpsluszeee7.jpg.html)
Looks good enough, so back in she goes...
Luckily there are a few spare pushrods on the shelf, so a few bucks saved. :) Pushrods are old TRWs
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Here is a shot of the twisted slip yoke I had to change before the race. It was worse than I thought. ::)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160723_132337_zpsegvmf9ml.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160723_132337_zpsegvmf9ml.jpg.html)
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You should have just backed up real hard, would have fixed itself ;)
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You should have just backed up real hard, would have fixed itself ;)
LOL!
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Looks like it was real close to being sheared in two. Good thing you found it when you did. Did you upgrade the slip yoke? I just recently went to a Mark Williams driveshaft and yoke. It wasn't cheap but at least now I know I'll bust the tranny before the driveshaft ::)
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Here is the replacement I bought, Doug. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/60677/10002/-1
A little pricey, but I have zero complaints with it. Very nice piece. Made by Sonnax, in USA. :)
Later, when the new motor goes together and I upgrade the trans, I will build a new driveshaft with 1350 joints. Currently running Ford Racing M-4635-A u joints front and rear.
Here are a couple pics of the safety loop I made for the car. (Pre-billet yoke install)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160520_191920_zpsq3pspw7p.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160520_191920_zpsq3pspw7p.jpg.html)(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160520_192128_zps4f2kzpbc.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160520_192128_zps4f2kzpbc.jpg.html)
The color I chose was a Rustoleum industrial "Safety Red", I thought it was only fitting. :)
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Are the billet steel Graham rockers still available any where ? Always thought they looked like a nice piece.
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/fekbmax/20160717_232019_zpsmwzrylgz.png) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/fekbmax/media/20160717_232019_zpsmwzrylgz.png.html)
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j387/fekbmax/IMG_1544_zps28euwqiw.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/fekbmax/media/IMG_1544_zps28euwqiw.jpg.html)
Hey, that second photo looks familiar. Yeah, those are good rockers that would be really tough to break. Thor has been using the rockers in your second photo:
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s156/oldafretired/DSC_0476_zpsiiff4ozw.jpg)
So are they still available or were only a limited number of sets made ?
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His website is still there but bought them awhile ago.
http://www.bestofbjsbooks.com/grahamracing_39.html
And what I meant is that second photo is the one I took of my actual rocker on the shaft. LOL
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Sweet !! Thanks.. :D
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I don't like how far down your adjusters are extended below the rocker body. I believe your pushrods are too short. Have you gone through the geometry at full lift and close? To me, it looks like ball is loading awkwardly and could have contributed to your failure. Simply my 2 cents and fair market value is likely less.
Carry on...
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The adjusters don't look like the most ideal spot, but they don't look terrible either. It certainly shouldn't have busted the rocker.
I was going to mention though, your driveshaft doesn't look like it's long enough. I've never seen one that far out, and that most likely didn't help matters with your old yoke twisting. It should be in as far as possible without causing any bottoming at maximum rear deflection. Yours looks like it's only about half way in. Hopefully the billet yoke will stop the twisting, but it still contributes to a 'whipping' action which is really hard on the yoke and U-joints as well as the output shaft. Is that a stock length driveshaft for the car?
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Pentroof- I fully understand your point, but I don't think the adjusters are terrible. They are not perfect and are halfway in travel. My Erson's going on my next build will be closer. Yes, geometry was checked. I feel the failure was due to a thin section of the rocker body.
Doug- The driveshaft is original to the car. Never been shortened or lengthened. Only thing done to it was occaisional u joints and having it balanced. The yoke sticks out only about 1 1/2", so maybe the picture is deceiving. The old yoke was over 8" from center of u joint to end of yoke, so it was well over halfway in. Also, the output shaft sticks out past the tailhousing about 1/2". I don't understand how this would have caused it to twist. If anything, it should have very noticeable wear on the output shaft bushing, and it looked good. The old yoke stopped about 3/4" short of the full spline on the output shaft. The new yoke goes just to the edge of the spline ends. Hopefully it will last till next year when it all comes apart for long overdue upgrades. :)
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I was going to mention though, your driveshaft doesn't look like it's long enough. I've never seen one that far out, and that most likely didn't help matters with your old yoke twisting. It should be in as far as possible without causing any bottoming at maximum rear deflection. Yours looks like it's only about half way in. Hopefully the billet yoke will stop the twisting, but it still contributes to a 'whipping' action which is really hard on the yoke and U-joints as well as the output shaft. Is that a stock length driveshaft for the car?
I have to agree with Doug on the position of the slip yoke, I had the same thought when I looked at the picture. I don't know if it contributed to your spline failure or not, or if there a preferred engineering theory, but I would think more spline engagement would be better. I do know the Mark Williams driveshaft I got for my car a few years ago sits further into the transmission extension housing and Mark Williams picked the length, it wasn't supplied by me. I was actually a little concerned that mine sat too far into the extension housing, but I moved the rear suspension through it's travel and it was fine. My car is a Mustang though. I don't doubt you on your driveshaft being original but a question I would ask - is your rear end yoke original too? Ford had multiple rear yoke lengths, as does the aftermarket. If your rear yoke was shorter it would move the driveshaft back. Just some thoughts, it sounds like you did check engagement.
Also check the #2 intake pushrod for straightness, often if the exhaust valve can't open to release the pressure the intake pushrod will bend trying to open against the built up exhaust.
Like this?
#2 exh. left, #2 int. right
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160723_122301_zpssqifbmmq.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160723_122301_zpssqifbmmq.jpg.html)
Luckily there are a few spare pushrods on the shelf, so a few bucks saved. :) Pushrods are old TRWs
Yup. Been there, done that when I broke a rocker shaft. And I have to give credit to mine & Jays mechanic buddy Bradford for teaching me that one.
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Kevin- On the more spline engagement being better, trust me, I feel the EXACT same way. That's why I just bought the yoke I did that has full spline.
As far as the rear end and yoke, I'm well aware on lengths and cap widths and u joint differences, both OEM and aftermarket. I have a few different OEM yokes laying around. Long, short, wide, and narrow.
Here's the setup. I built it myself. Only thing original at this point is the housing.(w/perch reinforcements of course)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/Mobile%20Uploads/20160520_192311_zpsd46yph7i.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160520_192311_zpsd46yph7i.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/Mobile%20Uploads/20160520_192234_zpsrhzb5rgh.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160520_192234_zpsrhzb5rgh.jpg.html)
I originally ordered a new yoke from Currie that matched the old yoke in length, but was machined for the Daytona support. Also, it was a nodular iron piece. I tried it, but the driveshaft wanted to almost bottom with it. So, I went to Quick Performance where most of my parts came from and ordered this shorter billet steel one. Would highly recommend Quick Performance to anyone. Driveshaft ended up in same location as before I rebuilt the rear. Also, my dad's 67 Lane that is parked next to my car looks the same way. Also has factory driveshaft, trans, yoke. That car has seen 7k w/slicks. I'm not too worried with my wheezy setup. I WILL try to get the driveshaft closer with the next trans and driveshaft.
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I noticed the rubber at the spring perch.
You should remove the rubber.
The springs will work better and even less chance of wheel hop.
The rubber is acting like another spring.
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Have I done anything right? I feel like I'm defending myself for no good reason...
As far as the rubber, yes I put them in because I wanted to keep things smooth for the street. I will be removing them when the rest comes apart next year. I haven't noted any ill effects yet.
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Have I done anything right? I feel like I'm defending myself for no good reason...
Standard forum picture posting risk LOL
The time to be defensive is when people WON'T help that means they don't care :) Personally, I think the slip joint and rubber is good advice too, but as with anyone, you choose what to do, and the car clearly is a beauty so I wouldn't take the advice in any negative way
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Thanks Ross. I didn't mean to come across as ungrateful. I do appreciate all the knowledge shared on this site. Maybe I have been in the heat and humidity a bit too long. Sorry guys.
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The complete opposite.
Your doing everything right.
Your asking for help. ;)
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I actually hesitated a day before saying anything because I didn't want to seem like I was nit picking on you. But since you are heading in a more performance oriented direction, I thought I'd point it out before it got to be an issue. Working on commercial type mowers at work, I've dealt with many issues stemming from splined shafts that don't fully engage, and we're only talking about 50-80 horsepower there..lol
The heat and humidity have been a little brutal here as well, 90+ degree heat and 70-80% humidity. It gets to everybody after a while. And Ross is right, if nobody cared, we wouldn't say anything..lol It's easy to get defensive and feel like you're not doing anything right. Been there myself, until I relaxed and realized guys were only trying to help me. Keep up the good work...and take out that rubber, lmao!! ;D ;D
Just razzing you on that one :)
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I apologize again guys. I didn't mean to get defensive. I know you're trying to help. I'm still gonna blame the heat. :)
Doug, I will get the next driveshaft closer. Next time I'll just take any frustration out on the tires. ;D Provided the new rockers hold up....
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Jared that car is so screwed up you should just bring it over and I'll get rid off it for you. ;D
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I think the reason for the concern about your yoke is that there seems to be a rule of thumb to be able to push the yoke in about an inch or so before it bottoms out after the driveshaft is installed to give maximum spline engagement and still leave space for movement. I guess how much of the yoke remains visible though depends on your yoke and I'm sure not all are the same length but the yokes from Strange and MW leave about an inch of the neck visible when seated.
(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s156/oldafretired/IMG_0414_zpsawe7tfdw.jpg)
If you end up changing yokes in the future, you might have to move your driveshaft safety loop to keep it within regs if you take it to the track. Not that I've ever seen an inspector actually crawl under a car to check. LOL
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Jared that car is so screwed up you should just bring it over and I'll get rid off it for you. ;D
Funny, you're not the first one to tell me that. ;D You'll have to get in line.....
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(http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s156/oldafretired/IMG_0414_zpsawe7tfdw.jpg)
If you end up changing yokes in the future, you might have to move your driveshaft safety loop to keep it within regs if you take it to the track. Not that I've ever seen an inspector actually crawl under a car to check. LOL
Thanks for the pic afret, that's a nice setup you have. :)
I won't get too worried for a while on the safety loop, the track I race at isn't the most strict to say the least. ::)
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Curious about your new plan.
Different transmission?
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Jared that car is so screwed up you should just bring it over and I'll get rid off it for you. ;D
Funny, you're not the first one to tell me that. ;D You'll have to get in line.....
Hell I'll come get it for you and take it off your hands :D
Love the way those wheels look on that thing and the stance..
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Curious about your new plan.
Different transmission?
And motor, driveshaft, clutch, scattershield, front disc conversion, couple front suspension/steering items I ran out of time and money for before, subframe connectors, and oh, remove the rubber insulators for the rear end.
It will be down for a bit to bring all this together, but then again, it seems like it's always down for maintenance.
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Thanks Keith, for the compliment, not the offer. ;)
Here are a couple pics for fun
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/IMG_20160601_184806_zpsl98e9ows.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/IMG_20160601_184806_zpsl98e9ows.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/IMG_20160601_184959_zps683opugr.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/IMG_20160601_184959_zps683opugr.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/IMG_20160601_184845_zpsp0dypxue.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/IMG_20160601_184845_zpsp0dypxue.jpg.html)
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Sweet !!!
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Very Nice Jared!
So which trans are going to?
There is a very high probability that I may be a transmission hoarder. :o ;)
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Howie, I was thinking of taking my old wide box and turning it into a big in/out and have Liberty or someone faceplate 2,3, and 4. I still want to run my Hurst h pattern shifter. Essentially, a poor boy Jerico.
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I'm guessing you may have originally had a long yoke on the third member that has been replaced with a short yoke. There is a couple inches difference between them.
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That's correct Alan. The driveshaft is in the exact same spot now as it was before I did anything to the rear end. The long yoke I was planning on using looked like it would bottom for sure, so I got the short one.
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Really dig the rear of that girl.
The '66 bright work and tail lights are just sweet.
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Got my new rocker setup together and installed. I decided to go with the Crane ductile iron rockers for now. I couldn't see putting my new Erson's on for a year and on this mild combo.
Here are some pics of the (new to me)Crane vs stock Ford replacement rockers. Lotta material on the Cranes. :)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/a00f6ac8-8d72-4547-bfb8-ed4729ff311d_zpsukdjcoob.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/a00f6ac8-8d72-4547-bfb8-ed4729ff311d_zpsukdjcoob.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130334_zpsyqnt0xie.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130334_zpsyqnt0xie.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130408_zpsstgpdzxr.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130408_zpsstgpdzxr.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130525_zpswndzoah6.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130525_zpswndzoah6.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130559_zpsxzuymtdy.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130559_zpsxzuymtdy.jpg.html)
Crane has a 360° oil groove
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130624_zpstugnsxca.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130624_zpstugnsxca.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130711_zpsbbq8h7zt.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130711_zpsbbq8h7zt.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_130657_zps2ob8za3b.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_130657_zps2ob8za3b.jpg.html)
Assembled with POP stands, old Speed Pro shafts, and high tension green springs:
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_143705_zpswgifjaht.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_143705_zpswgifjaht.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_143635_zpsmwhag71s.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_143635_zpsmwhag71s.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_152235_zps7aabzzkj.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_152235_zps7aabzzkj.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160730_152255_zpsu4fze9l2.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160730_152255_zpsu4fze9l2.jpg.html)
Thanks to POP for the excellent stands with end supports and a very generous supply of shims. :)
Installed:
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/20160811_183056_zpskxhgeohk.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/20160811_183056_zpskxhgeohk.jpg.html)
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Looks like a darn good set-up to me. I'd be pretty happy with that for about any street car.