FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 427HISS on June 28, 2016, 07:14:59 AM
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I may have a chance to purchase a NOS,........427 Side Oiler that has not been run.
I'm wanting to build a 600 HP/TQ 428 or better, a side oiler for my 427 Cobra.
The question is, do I really want bore & stroke a NOS engine ? :o
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More than likely it will be a later side oiler , so not really numbers correct for anything. If it is NOS , shouldn't really need boring , so I would check the bores. If it does need bored , go the minimum , and get pistons made. Stroking it will be no issue , again just make sure your pistons fit your combo. Going with a good strong block will only help your project not hurt it. Thanks Lance
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With to few, I don't think I could live with myself if I bored it. The reasoning is, I want to bore a motor to 4.25 squared for 482ci. to produced over 600 HP/Q.
I don't think I'd be happy with only 400-450 HP. But wow, a NOS side oiler would exciting in a Cobra ! 8)
I'm also on a tight budget, especially for a Side Oiler.
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If you are on a tight budget I would just run the stock 427.
It will produce more HP/TQ than you can probably handle in a light cobra.
Building stroker motor is not cheap but an easy way to make power.
If you have a NOS side oiler I certainly would not bore it just to gain a few more cubes.
I would put a stroker kit in one but no need to bore it just because you are fixated on a HP/TQ number.
Just make sure if you mess with this thing to get someone that knows what they are doing to help you.
Building FE's is not building a SBC.
My 2 cents
garyv
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The difference between a standard bore (4.233") and "boring" it to 4.250" is only 4 cubic inches. You'd never know the difference. With that being said, there's a lot more piston/ring options out there for a 4.250", which is only .017" over.
A 600 hp 482 will require aftermarket heads, BBM, SM, Pond, etc. By the time you pay $3000-4000 for an NOS 427 block, you're looking at close to $17-18k for a turn-key engine that will make that much horsepower.
Personally, I'd go the stroked 390 route. Some Cobra replicas will fare better with a true "427". Some will do just fine with a stroked FE.
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Brent - I assume you meant $30,000 to $40,000 for a NOS 427. If they are available at $3,000 to $4,000 I'll take two.
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The OP is talking about an NOS *block*, which is what I mentioned up above.
If you want an NOS 427 block for $30000, I have some I'll sell you. ;)
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450 hp in a cobra is perfect.
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Brent,
He doesn't actually say it is only a block, and if you read my post, I'll take two complete NOS 427s for $4,000 each!
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Ah, good catch, my bad.
He's also on Club Cobra and has gone through several different scenarios, with a couple of them being NOS blocks. That's why in my reply to him, I mentioned the block alone in my price estimate....all his threads are running together for me.
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I'm surprised more people don't go the "stroked 390" route for a cobra.
I know mine moves my Galaxie faster than my tires can handle. I broke the tires loose the other day at 60mph..... a cobra is what, 2000lbs lighter?
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People always get caught up in numbers... 427 and the like. Then things like 600 horse power , Most people cant drive a car with 600 horse power or tune it for that matter. Much less drive a cobra with 600 horsepower. For what is spent on the block you could put in a set of program caps in a 390 block and throw a 4.25 stroker kit in and be half way there, well maybe not half way, but a lot farther along. Heck through some good heads on that thing with the extra money saved and have a reliable, street able motor that makes killer horsepower , and if you blow it up you haven't killed a 3 to 5 thousand dollar block.
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Ah, good catch, my bad.
He's also on Club Cobra and has gone through several different scenarios, with a couple of them being NOS blocks. That's why in my reply to him, I mentioned the block alone in my price estimate....all his threads are running together for me.
So no possibility of a $4,000 427 long block?
As for most people not being able to handle 600 hp in a car - back in '88 I had a Mark VII with the Mustang GT 5.0 (impressive 225 hp for the day) and a friend with the T-Bird and the detuned 5.0 was looking at replacing his due to some issues he had and you could buy used 5.0 GT mills for very little, but not the standard mill - however all the 5.0 GTs were all equipped with nitrous. You can see where this is going. Young guys would buy a Mustang and put nitrous on it and wrap it around the next tree, hence the large supply of used low mileage 5.0 GTs available.
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As I read through this thread, I was reminded of the story of how Shelby got the Cobra off the ground. He went to AC and told them he had a connection to get V8 engines from 'one of the US manufacturers'. On the strength of that he got them to send him a car minus the engine and trans.
Then he went to chibrolet and told them he had a car that needed an engine and wanted to do a deal with them to be the supplier. Recognizing that such a combination would be the death of the korvetty they refused. So he went to Ford and made a deal for 260s.
Both AC and Ford thought the other part of the deal was already done.
With NO intent to diss the OP, it seems like "If I only had an engine I'd have a car, if I only had a kit".
TO THE OP---
Get the kit and put in a 351. Monkey with THAT engine. When you have a year of the 400-or-so HP that you can easily get from the Windsor, then plan carefully to go to an FE. With that, the sky's the limit. How fast do ya wanna go an' how big's yur wallet. We'll all be happy to help you spend your money. :-) :-) :-)
KS
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He has a Cobra. It had an FE in it, then sold it to build another.....but got bit by a shady engine builder. He has a Cobra, ready to go....it just needs an engine.
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If I could afford to have any engine builder to create a great engine for my Cobra, it would be Brent, even over the other famed FE engine builders. Gessford Machine is very close to me, and I really like George, but I feel like Brent is on the same page I am.
If I was building another Hot Rod, most engines woul be fine, but I feel a Cobra is different. I like the idea of utilizing what was original to Carroll's dream, that being a Side Oiler or with all street Cobras the 428. If I didn't care, there are so many choices, like any FE, the popular 351/427cu, or even Fords 514. I have given thought to the latter, with 625 HP/TQ, 3 year warranty, on sale now for $8,100. Even if I could get passed originalty, I would need to sell/trade my new Quicktime bellhousing, billt aluminum flywheel and clutch ect.... I don't know if I would have issues with the hole in the tunnel for the trans shifter.
Since the car is set up for the FE and Tremec, it's wise to build another FE.
A friend and I raced 360 winged dirt sprint cars for years, and in my younger days, I built several cars & Hot Rods. My first was a 1975 Pro-Street Camaro, 468 Ratt, Munci, narrowed 9" etc. So, I'm not a newbi to excess power. I built a 428 for my Cobra back in 2000, rebuilt it once. At a Good Guys show in Kansas I won Best Ford Muscle 1962 to 1969. Three magazines wanted my Cobra in their magazines, so at the time I was wanting to build a side oiler, and when I spoke with the editors I asked to hold on to see what I could do. This engine build was going to be sponsor paid from the best products out there, and in return the entire build from block to carbs, recorded in video and stills. All would also be on many,....websites and forums.
Sadly, I picked the wrong builder. I sent him 2k in money and all the manufactures products, my newer hard drive camcorder, bag, tripod and camera to record. 1.5 year later, his wife divorced him and his son got on drugs. Depressed, he had not been to his shop in 8 months, and it had been broken into. All four Genesis aluminum blocks were gone, including mine, and all my parts. He also let his insurrance go unpaid.
I had a major health issue, spent a total of 29 days in the hospital, expensive medications and the great insurrance my wifes emplorer had for 30 years was dropped to just Blue Cross. My Medflight to the Mayos clinic was $18,000 and hospital bill was $206,500. When I was two years old, I had a bad fall, crushed my skull, in a comma for 4 days. Since then, I have headaches, to migraine amount of pain, to these zaps, in my head 24/7. And can't work. Long story, but anyway, for excitment the Cobra is all I have, and it means a lot to me. I do not have the money we did many years ago.
I sold my 428 and tranny to help pay medical bills.
It all took my spirt away for now 8 years, but I refuse to give up on life, so I'm back to getting it back together and building a motor for the Cobra. It always brings a smile to my face and soul.
Thanks,
Kevin
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Wow, talk about a string of bad luck! I was out of the car hobby also, for about 12 years, due to life getting in the way. I'm just now getting back in full swing like I used to be. I say go for it and build what you want! Life is too short. If you want to do something, do it while you can. But I still wouldn't bore that block unless I absolutely had to ;)
If it's a vintage 427 block and not a later replacement, have you considered selling it to somebody who is looking for a vintage correct block? You could get a pretty good dime out of it to put towards a BBM, then you wouldn't have to worry about boring it out.
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Unfortunately, many folks feel they "need" big hp numbers in Cobras- many also get hurt or worse in them. I used to run with one of my best buddies and his cohorts in the mid-70's and the 80, whe were really big into Cobras, when you could still buy one reasonable and run the piss out of them. The factory drivers never really cared for the 427 cars that much, because they were a PITA and twitchy to drive fast. That and the fact that a late USRRC/FIA spec 289 race car with the big fenders, wheels and brakes and a good Weber'd engine in the hads of a good pilot would give a 427 car fits on a tight course. I have ridden in originals back in the day, with (one in particular crazy mofo) drivers who new them well and could shoe them pretty good, the CMF used to think it was fun to break the tires loose going into 4th at around 110 with one hand on the wheel, and yell hey don't worry about it, I got it all under control. The fastest on in the Bay Area group back then was an upgraded street version with a basic 454 TRW stroker setup, nice MR heads and a Crane, pretty rapid and simply known as "the red car". It ended up looking evil as the boys (not the owner) got loose with it in Vallejo one night and whacked one of the rear fenders into a parked car- so they had an old aluminum smith widen the rear fenders 6" and stuck 15" wide rims under the back- on bad red mofo. We were all set up to have him bring it up to Napa when Niel Britt from ChebbieCraft came to town for a Cars of the Napa Valley thing around 1980, but he showed up having traded it back for his old late-spec USRRC/FIA car. So, CMF was chosen to take Chebbie Niel for a ride- chugged out the driveway grinning and winking at us. Around the corner and waaaAAAHH..waAAHHHH..WAA-wu-wu-WAAHHHHHHH... Came back a few minutes later with a bigger grin, and old Niel having a death grip on the cowl and door and looking very pale- got JUST a little sideways in 3rd, and scared the dogshit out of 'ol Niel. Then we rolled out race GT40 #P1009 (it's race history with Peter Sutcliffe is well documented) and Niel didn't want any more rides
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Howdy
I need more info on what you have, is it a cherry never run 427? We raced them all the time for FORD at Holman Moody Stroppe and many of us kept stocks of old NOS stuff for a good reason, it is the genuine article.
Is it a long block? Why not give us the part number please?
We have done hundreds of restorations and I am a SHELBY Dealer, I knew Shelby and am still friends with many of my older HMS pals who worked at SHELBY, then Stroppe, then SHELBY, we rotated a lot of men. I kind of see this as an Old School, versus latest greatest school question in part? Plus you are cash limited?
You can just get a clean 428 crank, for 452 ish, great heads, two 4's and have a fiesta? The sombrero and tequila is the cheap part. The hard parts will cost ya some dinero. I'd suggest research, and at least SCAT rods. I do have sets of NOS LeMans rods, many do...they go in period correct builds. Are you a purist?
To many if us, a real 427 was made in Detroit, so, for me, I spend the time to find a ford crank, rods, and heads often. FORD intake, covers, you know. the old stuff kind of speaks to me,,,like, I was there in the glory days. All the new stuff is so bitchin but the old stuff is the genuine article, and it fetches bucks when you sell a resto, no doubt.
I assume this is a pump gas engine? Or not? We have a nice collection here, now 140 finished Hot Rods and classics, Drag Cars and so on. For many of them? We run VP race gas and don't care if someday, so how, somebody gives us a ticket. We have a concrete block building, for 3 grades of race gas, and run it blended, or straight, depending on the mission, goal
If you want it to sound like a real COBRA, from the 60s, I'd stick to the formula that won and went real fast then for this reason, the sound? And the power, torque curve, and attitude, is authentic for the era
Now granted, the new SHELBYS have my favorite new parts. FORD and many of us, were involved in the update. FORD, licensed Shelby to use the FORD numbers on the heads and so on
When you buy a new SHELBY COBRA, the engines come in power levels and get bigger and bigger. They start at 4250 bore, and then combos go from around 454, up to around 577 cubes
The key deal is, the heads have a 2 1/4 inch intake like a cammer. The stage 2 porting on the SHELBY heads hets you 320 CFM easy, and because the chamber is like the original FE heads, the sound, and performance, sounds nice, and runs great
The key deal on a new FE from Shelby is simple, the block only weighs 124 lbs.....the heads are aluminum, this takes a bunch of weight off of the nose of the car, makes the front rear weight percentages better, so the turn lower lap times in the vintage and club racing circles
We did a lot of hopped up FEs for COBRA owners, all through the 70s and 80s. If 2 guys had the original 427, they'd race, one would lose, come to us and say, I want to beat my pal bad, what do I need?
So, we'd do dual quad High Risers, stroked, no problem, We did 427, or 452 s with 8V tunnel port heads, we did several very stout SOHC's too
I'd set a clear target? If you have a FORD block,you can head plate hone is, out 003-4 thou, to 240 and stroke it and haul the mail, without fail
If you go 006 over, to 4.240, then you have 2 more easy rebuilds to 4245, then 4250
ARIAS made thousands of pistons for the new SHELBYS, he will make you any FE piston you wish, and they are tested well. Same deal with VENOLIA, JE, and others Probe
For me, if I have a stock 427 block, it just looks cool, blends, and seems real, with real FE heads
I just got a forged steel 427 SOHC crank today from a pal, magged it at VELASCO, they are out there
This crank is targeted at a lot more power, so I have the rod throws turned to 392 size. That is 062 under stock, and 1/8th inch wider per rod. Much stronger deal that we raced and won with a lot
The combined with of 2 rods is 2.0, rather than 1.875. This is for a blown FE
Have fun
# of the engine builders here, and many of us, can find you nice original Medium riser heads, High Risers, Tunnel P's
If you want to mix and match, lighter heads also take weight off of the nose a lot. If you can find the small chamber, fast burn, BT High Risers, they rip
Barrry make bitchin heads, made in the USA at Edelbrock
Ed has a good head
If you like the Korean Heads, which I have seen, used and my tight pal BLAIR is doing great things with, get BLAIR on your heads maybe. He is a FE genius with many records and trophies to show you. He, like many of us, was around race cars from birth and building in his teens. His decades of FE work have won and won at the drags. He flat knows how to win and is so smart, he builds a lot of winners.
You have 3 great builders here, and Brent is a real nice guy who works hard, does a lot and is a gentleman
Have fun
I do use the same porters that SHELBY uses out here, don't forget BPE racing Heads, in Anaheim. They did hundreds of high perf FE heads for all of the new COBRAS sold until about a year ago.
Have fun
There is no replacement for displacement, but you need great heads, the power is easy when you build an FE big. We did a 634 last year.
Your 600 target can be also viewed like this. FORD sold the first true race engines assembled, the 427 SOHC HEMI. They were famous for making 600 HP out of the box, but, with 12.5-1 slugs, 600 lift cams,2- 4's and an intake port that easily flowed around 400 CFM. And they could rev to around 9000 in race trim. So to get there with a wedge, requires just what you are pondering...more inches, better style wedge heads,,,or
Good luck
I'd set a budget, save, and keep asking the gang for input. I kind of feel that is it great to put heat back in to an old real 427 block, but try not to hurt it. Built it well, and run it wisely, and it can last a long time.
I echo what the others say too. 600 HP is fun if you are a good river, know how to throttle steer, slide, 3 pedal her in the corners and all that? Have fun
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Kevin, good luck with your build. I will say that if I had access to a NOS 427 block for $4,000 when I started down the 390 stroker path I would have jumped at it, and I was putting it in a '69 F100 4WD. In a Cobra, honestly, anything less would seem disappointing. It is not quite as bad as seeing a SBC in a 30's Ford, but to see a small block in a vehicle with "427" on the fender, even if it is stroked out to 427 cubes, leaves me a little sad. An FE makes me happier, but a real 427 makes me smile.
Of course some of the boys here have had their hands on a lot of SOHC 427's, but when I saw the only one I've ever stood in front of I had to resist the urge to take off my hat and get on my knees.
Do the 427.
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That's cool Paul.
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given the string of bad luck and your situation....
I'd throw a dressed up junkyard 390 in there and drive the heck outta it.
In the meantime take your time and have Brent (or whoever) build you the engine you *want*
Nothing better than driving your car while building the monster engine, nothing worse than staring at a non running car while you wait years for the engine build finances to build up. I hate a rushed project.
Good luck
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2X to a cheapie build now to get behind the wheel. Why wait....the grim reaper could catch any of us tomorrow, eh? :-\ :-\ :-\
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"the grim reaper could catch any of us tomorrow, eh?" lol
I don't have the funds to build a cheaply engine and save money for the higher dollar motor.
Wish I could,....wish I could !
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Around here a running 390 is $500.
Either way, good luck.
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i bought a 390 for 200 bucks one time and i put a comp cam,a 100 dollar used holley dp and a set of headers on it,and i had less than 700 dollars in the engine and it ran great in my old comet.i smoked alot of SBCs on the street with it.its still possible to get over 400 horses out of a 390 for under 1000 dollars if you can find a decent 390 to start with. jmo thats what i would do.you could be having fun in no time flat!
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"the grim reaper could catch any of us tomorrow, eh?" lol
I don't have the funds to build a cheaply engine and save money for the higher dollar motor.
Wish I could,....wish I could !
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build what you got (427), and don't look back
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I agree. :)
If I did get the NOS, I could stroke it and not molest the bore ?
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I agree. :)
If I did get the NOS, I could stroke it and not molest the bore ?
i think some of us thought you already had the 427.i suggested the cheap 390 if you dont have a motor ready to run
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If you have been waiting this long, and you can lay hands on a 427 long block or short block, jump on it. Building cheap is great, I have a friend who is a champion junkyard builder, but if he had the money he'd be building a 427.
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Nope, no engine at all.
Just as a question, would you rather have a stock, relatively low HP & TQ of a side oiler,
or 550- 600 HP/TQ, FE 390 (or the like) aftermarket engine ?
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Just found this ad. (won't need the tranny, brake & shifter)
DESCRIPTION- $9,500
1968 fe 427 side oiler, have cast numbers, fresh rebuild 2013,10.9/1 comp. 150 lbs comp, currently run in my 1966 ford fairlane, runs excellent, no smoke no drips, hydrolic crower cam, high rise manifold, selling with monster built c-6 tranny ,trans brake, and 3 speed hurst shifter. great setup, building a 1000hp engine for track so no place for fe, every thing included, whole setup just put in and go .
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I'd love to have a side oiler. Maybe just me. To be clear, you had a line on an NOS 427 - was it a block, assembled short block, or a long block, and by NOS do you mean never run? Last, what was the asking price?
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The first was on ebay, which was just the block for $5,250.
Second was almost running engine for $12,500.
The one guy I talked to for only a couple of minutes, had to stop our conversation as he found out a family member was at the ACU.
We haven't spoke, but I hope soon. He has at least two, maybe more.
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eBay is always interesting. I don't see any proper 427 blocks on eBay at present. A partly assembled engine is always a tough decision, and $12,500 is a big number. Even an engine running in a car may be at the limits of its bore and starting to crack, and you can't tell.
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Maybe I am just not understanding the situation here...... This is how it appears:
1. You are broke but want to know if you should buy a NOS sideoiler block
2. You are too broke to throw a junkyard engine in while you wait to build a proper engine
3. You are impatient, tho have no money and in the same breath are asking about a $5200 NOS block
4. You recently got screwed on a bad engine building deal and wish to back up this experience with buying an overpriced unknown engine from a unknown source (yet, you are broke)
This is why I stopped being in business for myself and went offshore to work.....
In order for anyone here to give honest and real advice these things need to be known:
-Money available
-Time frame of the project
-HONEST expectations of the car in regards to performance
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I just cringe, of buying a used engine and taking my chances, so I know I'd have to take it apart to at least check the bearings, and sure even further. TRUST,....is a big issue, especially from ebay, you just never know. :-\
I would feel better if I purchased a block or a short block from a trusted engine builder.
From Craft Racing, I just looked and his short block from Pond, is over 10k. OUCH !
I know there's better pricing, just saying........
$5,500 for a short block 428, Service block is better.
http://www.craftperformanceengines.com/Item/short_428465sp
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Don't you believe in RESEARCHING, and other purchase's in life or do you just wing it, through money out of your wallet at what comes along and hope it works out ?
Not be bro.
I have enough funds for a block and with the sale of my 360 sprint car parts (382 stroker, injection, filter hat, brakes, suspension etc) and other items, is when I can actually start buying more parts.
When I know what I want by researching, talking with other FE guys, reading forum threads etc,...I'll build the engine that I really want, and not just spend a low amount of money to build a crappy low HP/TQ engine, when I could save that money for the great one.
I'd rather wait and build a motor that I'll be really happy with, from the get-go. ;)
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Here's another side oiler I found. You may not want to reuse the rods, cam and slugs though ?
The price seems high, don't you think ?
His email so far.
From: DAVID
Date: 7/2/2016 11:13:45 AM
To: 427hiss@windstream.net
Subject: Re: Your NOS side oiler.
"Kevin,
The 427 SO is in Excellent Condition. No rust or pits in any of the cylinders. It can be put back together with all of the Original/NOS parts. Pics coming soon.
Dave"
END.
NOS 427 S.O. Shortblock
July 1 2016 at 10:03 PM Dave S (Login 55428ford)
Members
I have a New Old Stock 427 FE Short Block I am going to sell. It still has the FORD ID tag on it. $7,000 Complete. May Separate.
Here are the details.
NOS 427 FE Side Oiler, Hydraulic Lifter, Service Block dated 2G6 (July 6, 1972)
NOS STD./STD. C5AE-C Forged $ Crankshaft with screw in plugs & FoMoCo STD. Main Bearings
NOS C6AE-E 427 LeMans Rods, Bolts & FoMoCo STD. Rod Bearings
NOS C5AE-6110-AU MR Pistons with FoMoCo STD. Rings
NOS C3AZ-AA 427 Solid Lifter Camshaft. (VBX) Advertised Duration 306/306, Lift .500/.500
NOS FoMoCo Nylon Timing Gear Set
The Complete Shortblock was sprayed with Cosmoline years ago. I cleaned the Ctankshaft, Pistons, Rods, Cam and Bearings. The Block is partially cleaned but some of the Paint Dabs were coming off so I didn't complete the cleaning.
May separate.....
END-
(http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s331/427HISS/Davids%20Side%20Oiler%20short%20block/Davids%2010.jpeg) (http://s509.photobucket.com/user/427HISS/media/Davids%20Side%20Oiler%20short%20block/Davids%2010.jpeg.html)
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(http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s331/427HISS/Davids%20Side%20Oiler%20short%20block/Davids%203.jpeg) (http://s509.photobucket.com/user/427HISS/media/Davids%20Side%20Oiler%20short%20block/Davids%203.jpeg.html)
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Bump....
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Don't you believe in RESEARCHING, and other purchase's in life or do you just wing it, through money out of your wallet at what comes along and hope it works out?
Yes, I spent three years saving cash and figuring out every detail for this engine project that I just completed:
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=3868.0;all
Difference tho, is I knew what I wanted.
500-550hp but not sacrificing daily driving in my 63.5 Galaxie. I previously had a 400hp non-original style engine in there, wanted to use an FE and also bump up the hp a fair bit.
I also knew what I had in funding (Around $10k)
I wouldn't trust any shortblock/longblock/complete engine/bare block
I consider non of them to be any good without checking.... so that is factored into the cost.
My issue with your build is you appear to be all over the place.
You wanted 600hp in a cobra, than you look at a NOS shortblock 427 (which isn't gonna get ya anywhere close, nor would you want to use half the parts in there for any high hp build), you are also considering a 428 shortblock which is putting you even further from your stated hp goals.
that $7000 shortblock, I wouldn't consider running it without a visit to the machine shop and a cleanup. For a hair more money you could have an aftermarket block/stroker shortblock that would be more in line with your horsepower expectations.
good luck
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You just stated, "I spent three years saving cash and figuring out every detail for this engine project"
That's exactly what I'm doing, saving up money and figuring out EVERY,....detail of what I want, so not much difference between us. ::)
I'm sure you also were,.... all over the place as well as me. Unless you had a engine vision from God. lol
The only place that I would trust buying a short block is from a handful of out FE specialist engine builders. If it was from just a guy in his garage, then of course I would dig into it before assembling the motor. I'm not un-savvy ya know, I do have experience with engines and all types of cars, mild to wild, except the FE's.
Yes, apx 600 is what I want, but that depends on what I can afford, and the type of engine, as there's a LOT of different way to construct a motor that will suite my wants and needs.
If I buy a NOS, it won't be 600 HP, unless I buy new stroker rods, maybe a crank, etc. But, that defeats the purpose of having a total (or near) NOS engine.
You did a lot of research, and I'm sure, that you were also all over the place, so am I,.....so, I see no issue her bubba.
Quite frankly, I don't see what your problem is with my researching ?
But, if you have something positive to say and help with, feel free to do so. ;)
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Good luck.
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You did a lot of research, and I'm sure, that you were also all over the place, so am I,.....so, I see no issue her bubba.
Quite frankly, I don't see what your problem is with my researching ?
But, if you have something positive to say and help with, feel free to do so. ;)
"Bubba"?
Hmm, I think I see the issue now.
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lol...... ;)