FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: mmason on April 11, 2012, 01:55:10 PM
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I decided to make some changes to my 67 Mustang.One of them is to redo the interior. I have modified it over the years including putting in custom seats. They are very comfortable and make you feel like you are part of the car but I have grown tired of the look and want the original seats back in. I also would like to change the all black look and add some color. Here is the "before" picture of the interior.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/Before.jpg)
The next picture is the material for upholstering the seats. I was thinking of going with leather but I decided to be more practical and used a material that has a polyurethane facing and recycled leather for the backing. I got this from Charlotte Fabrics in Minneapolis MN.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat1.jpg)
This picture is some of the comfort weave that came off the original seats that I am using for a pattern.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat2.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat3.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat4.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat5.jpg)
This is the carpet that is going in the car. The camera makes the fabric for the seats a little to red. The carpet looks about right.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat6.jpg)
This is the rear seats sewn up.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat7.jpg)
Because I am sewing 1 inch foam in the center of the covers, I have to add 1 inch foam to the outside sections of the seat.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat8.jpg)
Instead of hog ringing the stretcher, I am attaching a nylon twine to the metal rod in the stretcher and pulling it through the foam. I find you have more control that way.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat9.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat10.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat11.jpg)
One of the bottom seats are done. You can see to the left of the seat where I need some adjustment to make it right. More to come.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/seat12.jpg)
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Wow, really nice job on that! My only foray into custom upholstery was to add black vinyl to an aluminum console I built years ago for one of my Mustangs, and I decided after that I'd never try it again LOL! Great to see some details of how its done by someone who obviously knows what he's doing...
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I like the wrap around seats. They match the back seat well.
I put standard 71 mustang highback seats in my 67. They were lighter than the low backs that I took out.
I think they might have been 68's though as they were much thicker and had folding latches on them.
I'm not sure if 67's ever came that way.
I took an upholstery course many years ago. I think the only thing I have left is one of the great big needles!
You certainly have talent.
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Great workmanship.
Those black headrests are very kool. You make them?
They look like they would slip right on my Fastback Scat seats? hint... ::)
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Thanks for the compliments. I know upholstery but I don't do a lot of automotive upholstery. The head rests came with the pro car seats. I just did the upholstery on them and that is how the birds got on them. It seemed like a good idea at the time. I think I will hold on to them for now. Here is a picture of what they looked like before the redo.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%20seats/P7281654.jpg)
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The closest I can come to upholstery is to stand to one side---so I won't be in the way---and make admiring noises!
KS
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Now that I am almost finished with the mustang for this year, here are some more pictures.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0080.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0064.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0063.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0054.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0061.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0068.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0067.jpg)
I wanted my rear end rebuilt so I thought I would give it a try. I used a strange casing, daytona pinion support, detroit locker, moser pinion yoke, and 3.89 gears. But as you can see I forgot to put the dust cover on.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0024.jpg)
I installed a shelby roll bar and new seat belts.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0014.jpg)
New valve covers that I bought last year.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/IMG_0024.jpg)
I also bought new rear wheels with a 5" backspace so my 275's would fit better.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0070.jpg)
That is it for now. I am about to order a new drive shaft and that should do it for this year.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0077-1.jpg)
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Love, love, love it!
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Really nice work Dude!
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Nice! Now we know who to send all our interior work to....LOL!
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Great job. I built a custom console for my '68 Shelby and put a Moroso Accusump in it back in the early 80s, just like yours is set up. Open the console lid, flip the valve, and pre-oil the engine before starting. It worked great.
I'm curious about your intake manifold. Looks like a Performer RPM, but it also looks like an air gap manifold. Is that a trick of the photo, or did you do something special to the manifold?
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Hi Jay,
It would have been a lot easier if I Photoshoped it but I got this idea to put a rpm and a dove together. It was my first try at welding aluminum. Here is a couple more photos.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0036.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Mustang%20makeover%202/DSC_0052.jpg)
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Very Kool.
Nice Fastback!
What's the innards of the 427?
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Too bad Edelbrock doesn't make a manifold like that!
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It has a 428 crank with 454 cubes, a comp 288 roller cam, 10.5 comp. Edelbrock heads, 850 carb and a aluminum flywheel.
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I just received a set of Barry's new heads. Here are a few photos of the heads right out of the box.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_3.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_4.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_2.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_1.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_5.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_6.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_10.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_11.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_9.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_8.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_7.jpg)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/BarrysHeads/image_12.jpg)
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Nice! Will you run them as delivered or is porting in the plan?
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Good eye there Jay, I definitely missed the manifold mods but with your love for manifolds you would be the one to catch it. Great to see someone think outside he box and tackle projects like that. Great work mmason.
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When I saw them my first impression was that they would run very well with a little clean up but I would like to make the intake port a little taller and wider. I like these heads a lot and I am clad that I bought them.
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Well surprise surprise. I just looked at the paperwork that came with the heads and I am the proud owner of Edelbrock heads. All the instructions and warranty cards are Edelbrock. I saw the 6005SV casting # on the heads yesterday and was wondering why he used a Edelbrock #. DUH.
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Those heads sure look good. When you port them are you going to be targeting some specific airflow numbers?
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OK Jay these are my plans for the rebuild. I would like the heads to flow at least 300 at .650. Barry has stated that his heads will flow 289 with 2.20 valves, 3 angle valve job and some simple blending. I would like to open the top of the intake port and one of the sides with the short turn by .1 inch.
I will be increasing the engine displacement to 485 with a CR of 11 to 1. I am going to start off using a comp 308R because I bought it a while back and it is sitting on the shelf. I am adding a one inch carb spacer and will start off using a 850 mighty demon with down leg boosters.
I don't have access to a flow bench for the heads. Maybe I should look harder?
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Data is your friend, so I would try to find someone who could flow them for you. If it was me, I'd do an "out of the box" flow study before porting, and another one after. I think my local shop charges $60 for a flow study on one cylinder, so its not that expensive, and it sure is nice to know what you're working with...
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I have those heads flowing 323cfm with a 2.100 intake valve. I will be porting 2 sets of them shortly with the larger 2.200 intake valves. I am hoping for 340cfm, but will not know for sure until after I see what a valve job looks like in the chamber with the larger valve. Joe-JDC.
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Alright Jay, that is what I will do. Or maybe I should ask Joe if he is looking for some more business.
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I love the air gap RPM that Edelbrock is too thick to produce,I have ideas too but life seems to cut into my Mustang time.
The Black seats are Pro Cars? Compared to stock seats hows the seat bottom to steering wheel clearance?
The blown interior gives a nice "rich" look,nice.
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The Pro Car steering wheel to seat clearance with my 15" steering wheel was good. The seat hardware has height adjustment for the front and rear of the seats. I had added a extra 1" seat padding when I upholstered the seats and it still worked out OK. I found the seats to be very comfortable and made you feel like you were part of the car.
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This my engine now that is has been rebuilt using Barry's heads, stroker kit and Jay's adapters for the water pump.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/0B90AB0B-400E-4DF2-9EE9-C23F3D97E05A-21180-0000492A06063A6A.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/0B90AB0B-400E-4DF2-9EE9-C23F3D97E05A-21180-0000492A06063A6A.jpg.html)
Waiting to be dropped in the car.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/B4745F57-7FD9-4344-8EC5-FDB6E0B1AFB6-21180-00004928BE54BBAA.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/B4745F57-7FD9-4344-8EC5-FDB6E0B1AFB6-21180-00004928BE54BBAA.jpg.html)
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Damn that motor is tasty! Did you end up flowing the heads? Who's double v-belt pulleys are you using?
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Looks really, really good. Are you going to dyno it?
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The flowing of the heads is a long story but the short answer is that I did not get them flowed although now that the engine is done I regret not pursuing it. The work I did on the heads was mostly clean up work and a three angle valve job with some blending into the bowl. The throat ended up being 1.95 inches. The valves were 2.20 and 1.73.
The pulleys I got at CVF Racing. They are very nice. The alternator bracket that I had was pre-68 and would not fit on Jays adaptors but he was kind enough to provide a template of the newer bracket included in his instructions. I made a flat one with a small tube for one of the bolts.
Jay, I might get a chassis dyno and for sure I am going to the track.
Here is a picture of one of the heads being worked on and a pic of the bracket I made.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/1C8921F8-5C89-4A4E-8B2E-14DEC93F1429-21350-0000494807BBF131.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/1C8921F8-5C89-4A4E-8B2E-14DEC93F1429-21350-0000494807BBF131.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/2A8D5CED-72EC-4E4B-825C-F1802D3AED5E-19082-00004392FFFF8B80.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/2A8D5CED-72EC-4E4B-825C-F1802D3AED5E-19082-00004392FFFF8B80.jpg.html)
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That intake is a sweet piece. Nicely done! Raised plenums with air gaps seem to me to be a no-brainer for keeping the intake charge cooler. I suppose casting cores are more difficult that way, but all performance manifolds should have runners divorced from the base.
I liked the color you had it painted before, not that paint matters. Maybe I missed it, but what heads did you have on there before?
And that keenly hidden accumulator is a great idea. Having to open the hood to start and shut off the system always seemed to be the major drawback to them. I need to learn to think outside the box more ::)
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Your alternator bracket looks good. I think someone here, afret maybe, figured out how to modify one of the early brackets to fit my adapters. Earl, if that is correct could you post some pictures? Figuring out how to modify the early brackets is also on my own list, so that people who have the earlier brackets have a solution.
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It's really getting annoying at how much drool I am expelling.
I feel like a little kid pointing at one car then another, "oh thats neat, oh but that's neat too, oh no, look at that".
Beautiful car.
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The paint that was on it before the black was a mixture of Eastwood's ford blue, aluminum and a little black. The old heads were first generation Edelbrok's with the machined chambers.
Michael
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Well the summer did not go as I had planned. The plan was to have the mustang running and to make some changes to the car though out the summer. I did get the engine back in and ready to run by the last week of may but I was under a lot of pressure to start putting in long hours at work because of the back log of work I had. Also I promised my wife that I would start the remodeling of her kitchen that she has been 10 years for.
When I tried starting the engine, it had a hard time turning over and would not start. Here is the engine ready for starting.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/9C53E1FD-F1F9-4B95-83FB-28F7C8F4E558-2433-000004B4EC2B8FA5_zps20e9df85.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/9C53E1FD-F1F9-4B95-83FB-28F7C8F4E558-2433-000004B4EC2B8FA5_zps20e9df85.jpg.html)
So I bought a new starter. It is a Powermaster and is only 6 1/4" long IIRC. I works out nicely with my headman headers.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/304AF110-5647-453B-82D8-E5BCFFED5A3A-2433-000004B556BA43C4_zpsb04fb4b7.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/304AF110-5647-453B-82D8-E5BCFFED5A3A-2433-000004B556BA43C4_zpsb04fb4b7.jpg.html)
Tried starting again and got some kickbacks but no start. I checked everything and it looked good so I suspected my ignition system. I have a MSD box, a programmable timing box and a locked out distributor. It was set for 38 degrees and a 20 degree retard. The was all bought in 1996 and ran fine in my 454. So I disconnected the timing box and set the distributor for 18 degrees. Tried starting again and it started right up. So I bought a new programmable 6al and a new coil. Here is a picture of it getting programed.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/50ED6892-2F64-478E-BBAD-9DC30B189223-2433-000004B583E0B816_zpsf447fe5d.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/50ED6892-2F64-478E-BBAD-9DC30B189223-2433-000004B583E0B816_zpsf447fe5d.jpg.html)
All this was happening while I was working 6 1/2 days a week and the other 1/2 day on the kitchen. I would sneak out for a hour or so before I would go to bed. While I was waiting for parts, I thought it would be a good time to do the other add ons. I upgraded my fuel line to 1/2" and new fuel pump and filter. I also decided to try using water/methanol injection. Here is a picture of the setup in my trunk.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/A875291D-789A-4DE8-96B8-7515CFA6BF4B-39871-00008B9C6B09CCC0_zpsc6e31ad0.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/A875291D-789A-4DE8-96B8-7515CFA6BF4B-39871-00008B9C6B09CCC0_zpsc6e31ad0.jpg.html)
The controller in my glove box.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/5FC3B360-DB3C-40F1-AEEB-22F303963C17-39871-00008B9C536C7A0C_zps19c39b36.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/5FC3B360-DB3C-40F1-AEEB-22F303963C17-39871-00008B9C536C7A0C_zps19c39b36.jpg.html)
And the injector in a 1" spacer.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/17F83948-DC6A-46F7-9C28-0D2475C70AC1-39871-00008B9C93E5A1C1_zpse0c22aa8.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/17F83948-DC6A-46F7-9C28-0D2475C70AC1-39871-00008B9C93E5A1C1_zpse0c22aa8.jpg.html)
I have it set up not to go on until the rpm reaches 3300 and not to start injecting until the vacuum is at 6" and is injecting at full at 0" of vacuum. By putting on a 1" spacer I ended up with air filter 1" higher. Here is a pic of that.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/856661FE-DC2D-41B7-8449-EE075799A0E1-37907-00008446A119266F.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/856661FE-DC2D-41B7-8449-EE075799A0E1-37907-00008446A119266F.jpg.html)
So I had to make a new hood scoop. This is what it looks like. I am not completely happy with the looks but it will have to do for now.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/BF220CDC-7E47-4BD8-AAD9-0367BEF4BA88-37907-00008446DA0B1D84.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/BF220CDC-7E47-4BD8-AAD9-0367BEF4BA88-37907-00008446DA0B1D84.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/CA0711D0-5843-4AE4-B389-473CDF2A4691-1158-0000020827D20F6B_zps8b97b314.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/CA0711D0-5843-4AE4-B389-473CDF2A4691-1158-0000020827D20F6B_zps8b97b314.jpg.html)
The setup seems to be working well. I had a problem with it in the beginning but that was because I had the solenoid check valve on backwards and it was sucking water all the time.
Here is a picture of what it looks like now with the new 950 carb and my modified air cleaner.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/E1B6407E-2AFE-45B5-AF39-C836FBE448B9-46986-00009DB1598ED50A_zps84914a19.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/E1B6407E-2AFE-45B5-AF39-C836FBE448B9-46986-00009DB1598ED50A_zps84914a19.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487/C82283A7-21DA-4F12-9DA4-5C543BB9EC20-46986-00009DB13A3B4E77_zps1414010c.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487/C82283A7-21DA-4F12-9DA4-5C543BB9EC20-46986-00009DB13A3B4E77_zps1414010c.jpg.html)
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Looks great, Michael. I'm curious about the Snow Performance setup; I've never thought about using one on a naturally aspirated engine. What is your compression ratio? Did you install it because you were concerned about detonation? I ran one for a while on my Mach 1 when I had the supercharged engine installed, and it definitely allowed me to run more timing and pick up some power. I had mine set to turn on slowly between 4 and 12 pounds of boost.
Nice water pump setup, by the way ;D
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My compression ratio is about 12.1. The DCR is 8.35. So I think I am on the hairy edge of detonation. Besides it keeps things clean. I read somewhere that you should get your baseline of where you want your AFR to without the injection on and then with it on you should increase your AFR by one half to three quarters of a point. I have to get my camera to record the gauges because no way can I get on it and watch gauges at the same time.
I like my water pump setup too! Sometimes I will go out to the garage, open the hood and just look at it.(Yikes, I need to get a life)
One more thing. I am running 36 degree's timing now and want to try a little higher.
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I like what you did with the scoop. Looks great and just that bit different.
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Just a quick update on the mustang. Last year I added a 1 inch spacer under my carb so I made a new hood scope to accommodate it. I never did like it so I tried to design a new one. My intention was to make a 3 1/2 hood scope look like a 2 1/2 scope. After I put it on the car I realized that I did not like it either. I started thinking that ford might have a better idea and so I bought a new hood with the scope on it. Here are the pictures of the two hood scopes that I made and then the new hood.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/New%20Hood/Hood1.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/New%20Hood/Hood1.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/New%20Hood/Hood2.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/New%20Hood/Hood2.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/New%20Hood/Stang4.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/New%20Hood/Stang4.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/New%20Hood/Stang2-1.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/New%20Hood/Stang2-1.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/New%20Hood/Stang5.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/New%20Hood/Stang5.jpg.html)
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That is a sweet looking ride!! ;)
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Wow! Looks great.
Would you please share what wheel/tire combination you are running?
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The rear tires are 275-60-15. The wheels are 8" with 4 3/4" back spacing. My rear housing is off a Lincolon Versailles so the side to side measurement where the wheel mounts to the disk is 58 1/4". The front tires are 225-60-15 and the wheels are 7" and 3 3/4 back spacing.
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Beautiful car!
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The rear tires are 275-60-15. The wheels are 8" with 4 3/4" back spacing. My rear housing is off a Lincolon Versailles so the side to side measurement where the wheel mounts to the disk is 58 1/4". The front tires are 225-60-15 and the wheels are 7" and 3 3/4 back spacing.
Thank you.
I have a Versailles axle in my 67 fastback as well. I really love the look of your wheels and now I know what back spacing etc to look for when buying new wheels.
Did you have to modify the fender lip in the rear? I tried on a pair of 275-60's but they where rubbing. Not sure what back spacing those wheels had though. They were stock stamped steel 8" from a 71 Plymouth GTX.
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Great car!
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Thanks for all the compliments. I am finally happy with the way looks. Now on to better brakes!
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Great looking car. Have you noticed a difference in the underhood heat?
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The under hood temp is a lot cooler. When the radiator fans turn on a lot of hot air blows out of the louvers. I have never had a problem cooling the engine before but the running temp seems to be lower when I am in traffic. My only disappointment is my normal oil temp, which I think is a little high, has not changed. So I think I will be adding a oil cooler.
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I ordered my adaptor with the intention of using a CHI 3V 225cc manifold. Jay and I worked it out so that he would set it up for me so I could do the porting. Jay started the porting by running the FE port 5/8" into the head side of the adaptor to get past the pushrod holes. He also ran some holes all the way through and cut an outline of the CHI ports on the manifold side. Here are some pictures on what I started with.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/ED341626-AA1A-49C1-B058-400A525E3B3F.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/ED341626-AA1A-49C1-B058-400A525E3B3F.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/3F247602-F693-4867-A4FF-16319C00896C.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/3F247602-F693-4867-A4FF-16319C00896C.jpg.html)
Here are pictures of how it ended up after the porting.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/8ED4BEFC-090F-4FC9-A1E7-426F8779032B.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/8ED4BEFC-090F-4FC9-A1E7-426F8779032B.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/E27269E5-C54D-4998-9739-628EF571FB6C.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/E27269E5-C54D-4998-9739-628EF571FB6C.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/2E1EA4AE-A5A3-48FA-8C79-4ECDD01F41F0.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/2E1EA4AE-A5A3-48FA-8C79-4ECDD01F41F0.jpg.html)
Everything seemed to line up nicely except for the number 1 and 8 port where the manifold runner turned in to quickly. So I elongated the outside of the port on the adaptor so that I could grind away the turn in on the manifold. This kept the outside radius of the runner a smooth curve into the adaptor.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/E92E97C9-E116-4C41-97A1-B1462D0A29EC.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/E92E97C9-E116-4C41-97A1-B1462D0A29EC.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/21181421-8983-444E-BCCB-14FEE6356D57.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/21181421-8983-444E-BCCB-14FEE6356D57.jpg.html)
Here are some pictures of the manifold before I started working on it.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/2BD94560-A566-44E9-8F47-13F0BA9EA3FF.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/2BD94560-A566-44E9-8F47-13F0BA9EA3FF.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/00DEE5D8-C2E6-4745-A508-25789D95A3EB.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/00DEE5D8-C2E6-4745-A508-25789D95A3EB.jpg.html)
Next I cut the bottom off.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/B0503DD3-9468-4279-BAC2-0A77A3D9BB04.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/B0503DD3-9468-4279-BAC2-0A77A3D9BB04.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/AA72CE4E-701A-4A99-9FAA-D0AB336FEA49.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/AA72CE4E-701A-4A99-9FAA-D0AB336FEA49.jpg.html)
This whole thing has to fit under my Shelby hood so one of the things I had to do was lower the height of the manifold 1". I did this by cutting off the top 1 1/4".
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/E0A7F954-6A95-49E2-A50A-318AE9D63065.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/E0A7F954-6A95-49E2-A50A-318AE9D63065.jpg.html)
I then cut the machined surface off 3/8" thick and glued that to the top. Then blended it into the runners.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/30F45C98-443F-4B3B-966C-8EE5AB01599A.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/30F45C98-443F-4B3B-966C-8EE5AB01599A.jpg.html)
This is the finished product after painting it.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/8761583B-8DE5-4351-916D-00276455807D.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/8761583B-8DE5-4351-916D-00276455807D.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/0B2F75A3-D78E-482B-A16B-F942D6A87F21.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/0B2F75A3-D78E-482B-A16B-F942D6A87F21.jpg.html)
Here it is with the new timing cover. Now I need some warm weather.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/CHI/C753D5B6-E1A8-4A74-B7CE-54431655A65D.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/CHI/C753D5B6-E1A8-4A74-B7CE-54431655A65D.jpg.html)
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mmason where in NY are you?
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Great job, Michael, the parts look fabulous! The paint really makes the unpainted aluminum pop. I'm anxious to hear how that CHI manifold works, and by all accounts its a good one, so I'll bet it will work pretty well.
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What did you use to cut the flange off?
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I live in Princetown just outside of Schenectady. For cutting the flange I used a reciprocating saw with a lot of we-40. I first make a cut on all four side so when I Start cutting deep the blade can follow the groove. I also keep turning it to cut all sides equally. I then clean it up with a belt sander.
I plan on taking it to the track this year. Of coarse I say that every year but I REALLY mean it this time.
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Car looks great. I,m installing Jay,s CVR/adapter on my 67 Fairlane 600 h.p. that has a Griffin Exact Alumn Radiator. What fan maker setup did you use ?. I,m thinking about the 30102052 11" or 30102120 12" Spal . Thanks, Bob Mosher.
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For cutting the flange I used a reciprocating saw with a lot of we-40. I first make a cut on all four side so when I Start cutting deep the blade can follow the groove. I also keep turning it to cut all sides equally. I then clean it up with a belt sander.
Thanks for the info. So for the blade, what was the length, and tooth count per inch?
You did a good job on all of it, looks like you had some time into this project!
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My radiator is a Be Cool and the shroud is from Summit which fits nicely. The fans are also from Summit but if they fail I will replace them with Spal. It seemed to me that it ran cooler with the electric water pump when I was in traffic.
The blade I use to cut the manifold was 9" although I would have preferred 10". I will get back to you on the tooth count but it was on the course side. I did spend some time on it especially the porting. If deep down I ever had a desire to port manifolds for a living, it is gone now.
The TPI on the blade I used was 14. I would have preferred 12 because it cuts faster.
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LOL! I'm with you on that! You can really appreciate a guy like Joe Craine after doing an extensive porting job...
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The car and your work are absolutely stunning! And I don't normally go for green cars. ;)
How is the new CHI/Jay intake going to work height wise with your hood? Only asking because in the photos it looks really high.
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I will post my progress on the hood clearance. Just waiting for the weather to get warmer.
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That is the sweetest looking intake I have ever seen. Awesome work on that.
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Just a follow up on Jay's adaptor and the CHI intake. I installed both and they went on with no problems except it was 3/4" higher then my last setup which means it was 3/4" to high and was going to hit the hood. I decided to modify the air intake. The last setup I had on it was a K&N 1 1/4" drop base with a 3" air filter. I took the drop base and modified it so that it was a 2" drop base with a 3 1/2" air filter.
Here is the manifold installed.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/01b0e1b4b3a7f523a28a877ba210f51456e82a25c4_00001.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487%20Mustang/01b0e1b4b3a7f523a28a877ba210f51456e82a25c4_00001.jpg.html)
Here is the modified drop base and filter.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/01e517689393d4ce199e1d7d00fd9d418acb450cd8_00001.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487%20Mustang/01e517689393d4ce199e1d7d00fd9d418acb450cd8_00001.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/017569942322040715f380ac0fc9640af4dcbf0c92.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487%20Mustang/017569942322040715f380ac0fc9640af4dcbf0c92.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/01ddfa68cf30c9c3ebf0a7afa1473ca4739619e289.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487%20Mustang/01ddfa68cf30c9c3ebf0a7afa1473ca4739619e289.jpg.html)
Here is a video of one of my shake down cruises where I am first testing the higher rpm and trying to record the gauge readings. My shift light is going on at 6500 rpm. By the time my brain figures why there is a red light and that I have to shift gears, I think I am at about 6800.
http://vid704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/Mustang%20test.mp4
Here is a still shot from the video. I believe I am in 3rd gear approaching 6000 rpm. The AFR looks to be between 12 and 13. The vacuum is zero and the fuel pressure is 6lbs.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/20150715_185738.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/487%20Mustang/20150715_185738.jpg.html)
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That sounds great mmason! Great job on the build, I like it a lot! ;D Was there much fabrication to get the throttle linkage to work under that low base? I think I've seen those water pump adapters somewhere......... ::)
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Great Job
cool Stang
awesome job on the intake
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That is a really good looking engine. Sounds like it really works, too...
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Looks and sounds great, well done.
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Thanks for the compliments. There was no problems with the throttle linkage because the carb sets so high the rod is at a steep angle so it clears the base. I also ment to say in my earlier comments that I assume that this air intake is probably very restricted but will be good for the street. Something different for the track.
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Now all you need is a black Charger to chase ;D
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The engine sounds great! Spins up pretty quick too! What mufflers are you running?
The engine looks great also. Very nice work on the detail and intake work. Did it seem like the engine picked up with the intake change? I'm also curious if you're running water or methanol in the injection and how clean the plugs and exhaust look with it?
With all the work you've done on the car the last couple years, it has turned into a real beauty...a Jekyll and Hyde!
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The mufflers are aero chambers. When I first drove this engine last year, I had my "air gap" manifold on then and I noticed that it seem to have a lot of pick up then. I was thinking that it was the 12 to one compression that really wakes up the engine.
I am running the water/methanol injection. In the video you can see a little green light just above the three gauges go on when the injection is running. I have it set to go on after 3000 rpm and when the vacuum hits 6" and progresses to 0". The plugs do run clean. I really do think it works well. Have not heard any pinging yet and it does not seem to hurt performance any.
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I have made a few more changes to the mustang and I will post those later but I wanted to post is something I will be installing this winter that should make the car easier to drive. It is electric power steering. Here is a link to where I bought it. The second video down shows how to install into a Mustang.
http://epasperformance.com/how-to-videos/
Here are some photos of the kit.
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Power%20steering/IMG_1576.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/Power%20steering/IMG_1576.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Power%20steering/IMG_1578.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/Power%20steering/IMG_1578.jpg.html)
(http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/Power%20steering/IMG_1577.jpg) (http://s704.photobucket.com/user/mason427/media/Power%20steering/IMG_1577.jpg.html)