FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: AlanCasida on June 18, 2016, 11:47:55 PM
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I am looking at buying an enclosed trailer and I'd appreciate some input on what to look out for and what to get or not to get.
I would like something no longer than 24' and a tag trailer. A 20' would be better for me but I think it would be really tight getting my 17' Galaxie in. ::)
Thanks guys!
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Funny, when I was looking to buy an enclosed trailer a few years ago, I thought that a 20 or 22 foot trailer would be more than adequate for my Fairmont or Mustang. However, trailers shorter than 24 feet are not very common (at least around here.) I looked at several new trailers in my budget, but instead of buying a new plain jane trailer, I decided to get a used well known brand (Wells Cargo) that had a lot of extras already in place. Things like factory cabinets, a built in winch, flush mount outside lighting, an awning, aluminum checker plate floor, left side access door, electric tongue jack, aero nose cone etc really add to the cost of a new trailer, but on a used trailer, are greatly discounted. One thing I really like is that my trailer has "Shoreline" electrical built in. So in addition to a couple of 12 Volt inside lights, it has 3 115V florescent lights, as well as several 115V electrical outlets. So I can either hook the Shoreline power cord to either an extension cord from my garage, or to my gas generator, so I can have the much brighter 115V lighting, and hook my battery charger to one of the 115 V outlets, rather than have extension cords running all over the place. And despite thinking a 24 footer would be more than I needed, sometimes I wish it was 2 or 4 feet longer. It seems that 24 foot trailers are about the most popular, as the longer ones are too much for many driveways to accomadate. I have seen some 30-34 foot trailers advertised for a long time, sometimes for the same price (or less) as a 24 foot. Great deal if you have the room. A few things I would consider almost mandatory would be torsion bar axles, rather than leaf springs, they ride noticeably smoother, and allow a lower floor height. Also the 5200 lb axles with 6 lug wheels are a good upgrade to the 5 lug 3500 lb axles. I know some guys who say the 6000 lb 8 lug axles are better still, but thats a fair bit more costly.
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Thanks, Rory. :)
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I don't have too much practical advice, but I agree with what Rory posted. About 15 years ago my open car trailer was stolen and I intended to buy an enclosed trailer to replace it. I was able to recover my open trailer and ended up not buying an enclosed, but in between I did a lot of shopping. There is an almost unlimited list of options available when buying a new name brand trailer, what I found though was it was pretty much impossible to check many of them out in person ahead of time at a dealer - most just had basic trailers or the most popular options on hand. Hard to judge if something like a built in tool chest is worth the price if you can't see one short of a trip to the factory. But if you don't have any special needs you can probably get by with the normal stuff. Many of my friends have done well buying another racers used trailer looking to move up. I agree too, 24 foot seems about the minimum anyone wants anymore, and more going to 26' & 28' - seems everyone wants to haul a golf cart now days too. Just thinking ahead for your resale value someday. Watch for if the rear floor section is "dove or beaver tailed", sloping down - not all are and it can make loading a low car a challenge if not present. I have a friend that is a circle track racer and tows around the country quite a bit - he advised me that most of the cheaper enclosed trailers don't stand up to them very long. He said on used trailers to watch for missing panel or roof rivets or screws that might indicate body flexing. He also advised to get the 6000 lb 8 lug axles. His reasoning was that they towed better and having the same rims as your tow vehicle ( I have a one ton van ) means you have an extra spare that fits both trailer & truck. Every state has different registration laws though - check to be sure having a 12,000 lb capable trailer doesn't give you any registration issues. Know too that a lot of the weight capacity of the trailer can be taken up by the weight of the trailer itself - it you plan on hauling something heavy ( like a Galaxie ) you will want to check payload capacity if you only get the basic axles. One option that looked handy to me was compartments in the floor to store the trailer spare as well as tie down straps and a front floor compartment for the winch - but they could be added to most trailers.
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A fellow forum member has a Haul Mark trailer, and it pops screws loose after a few hundred miles. He says he will never own another of that brand. Joe-JDC
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Alan, I'm not sure if you're aware of my purchase, last year, of a new 24' enclosed trailer. There is a very good thread on the 54 forum where I asked this same question. Lots of good responses from the guys who haul and race. I'll post it later if I can find it.
But I'll add in the meantime, unless you want just a basic hauler with room for nothing else, a 24' should be a minimum. That gives you room for some tools and room to move to ratchet it down. I'd also recommend at least one spare tire well in the bottom. Two would be nice, either for another spare or extra storage space for a jack etc. I think pretty much all car haulers are beaver tails for ease of entry.
If you want a winch, measure carefully and tell them exactly where you want your anchor plates at. Same goes for tie-downs. Mounting the winch off to the side and using a pulley block saves floor space. I'll add pictures later of how I did mine. You'll need an extra anchor plate for the pulley block if you go that route.
An extended tongue is nice if you'll be doing any backing up. Short tongues limit the angle you can achieve and are more difficult to back up.
The 5200 lb axles would work fine, but I'd definitely get the torsion style. That'll still give you 2500+ lbs leeway with your Galaxie when loaded, for tools etc. About 2000+ if you opt for insulation and paneled interior.
Once you get it, epoxy coating the floor is almost a necessity and a VERY nice thing to do. Saves a LOT of weight over a tiled floor, is cheaper and is easier to maintain as well.
I'd consider all the above as necessary things to have. Extras like insulation, paneling, lighting, lower and/or upper cabinets etc, are options you'll need to decide on based on your intended use and budget. Insulation and paneling are nice if you plan on spending any time in it, such as at a race track. Otherwise it'll feel like being in an echo chamber or inside a snare drum...lol
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If your handy with tools, build your on cars and such, I'd say a good option is to buy a basic trailer with the load capacity and length you need if budget is concerned and then at your own pace and as you can afford it make all your additions and customize it to fit your needs.
Ofcourse that's just my opinion as I like to do as much as I can myself, save some $ and the satisfaction and joy of doing things.
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All good advice above. What I did was snoop around at the track and look at other peoples trailers for ideas then went to a couple dealers. I had my trailer custom built and still wish I'd added a few more things.
Bottom line is, how much are you going to use it and how much are you willing to spend. You don't want less than 24' and the 5200 lb torsion axels as previously mentioned. A basic box is relatively cheap and everything else runs up the price in a hurry. Unfinished is an option but like a lot of projects, they tend to stay unfinished. A good used could get you a trailer with some nice upgrades for the same money as a basic new. Finding one close to where you live may prove difficult though.
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I don't really like posting links to the 54 site, but I figured this would really help you. Here's the thread I started there last year.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1429501661
Here's a picture of the one I bought. 24', pretty basic except for a few nice amenities like lower cabinets, insulated, interior paneling, 120 volt package (includes lights and outlets, 30 amp breaker box) and 2 spare tire wells, V nose, stone guard on front, tread plate on ramp door.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG2311.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG2311.jpg.html)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG2316.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG2316.jpg.html)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG2317.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG2317.jpg.html)
Here's how I mounted the winch. A few pieces from the local Tractor Supply store put me in business. Cheapest price on the winch was from Amazon and it works great.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG2325.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG2325.jpg.html)
This is what it looks like after epoxy coating the floor, adding the center D ring and winch assy. and adding a cheap Harbor Freight tool chest on top of the cabinets. It's about the perfect size for me and what I'd haul. Gives me space to sit and relax with the car in there, but that's about it.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG3047.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG3047.jpg.html)
I'll add a few more useful items, but not a lot. These things seem pretty basic to me for something I'd want to use for spending a weekend in at a racetrack. A bit much probably for just a car hauler.
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Thanks for all the replies and info. I REALLY appreciate it. I am kind of struggling on how to justify an enclosed trailer since I probably won't use it a lot. However, if you live in Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas you know a nice day at the track can turn into a hail storm almost at a moments notice and that would turn into a disaster real quick. I also figure I could use it as a portable garage while it's sitting since I am kind of short on space here at home. Here is one I am looking at. I would like an escape door(we call them a fatman door!) too.
http://kansascity.craigslist.org/fod/5579396216.html
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Alan, the inside fenders look rather tall on that trailer, if the cars doors hit them, it could make getting in and out of the car tough.By "Slipper springs", I am assuming they are leaf springs, but with a flat end that slides in a slot, rather than using pivoting shackles. Not sure how those compare to regular leaf springs. Having an enclosed trailer is certainly nice to use as a "extra" garage.
One consideration that has not been mentioned is color. When I was looking at new trailers a few years ago, it was a hot summer day. Most of the trailers I looked at were white, but when I stepped into a black trailer, the increase in temperature was very noticeable. A friend bought a new black "Husky" 26 footer a couple of years ago, with screwed on side panels, and on a hot day, the side panels get very wavy, I assume from the added temps. It does smooth out when the temp does drop.
As for the left side escape door, my Wells Cargo has one, it is certainly a bonus for "plus size" models like myself to get in and out of the car once inside. One caveat however, although neither my Mustang or Fairmont are really low, I had to make some plywood steps for the LF tire of the car, to get the side of the car up a bit to allow the door to clear the top of the trailers inside fender. Without the rise, the cars door would be too low to clear the trailer fender, and fit through the side door of the trailer. Another plus with the left side trailer door, is you can get a nice breeze going thru if you have both side doors and the rear door open.I am not sure how much the V nose front helps aerodynamics or fuel mileage, but they do complicate mounting a workbench in the front. My trailer has a large bulbous "Aero Nose" which is supposed to help mileage, not sure how effective it really is. I do wish mine did have 1 or2 of the in floor spare tire/ storage bins.
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Shop racingjunk.com, not CL (IMHO). Ours is a 24' flat nose, heavy duty, .030 skin, 3/4 ply floor, 1/4 ply walls. Used, fully painted inside and ready to roll was $4500. Once you get a box, you'll forget about a flat trailer. Makes things much easier. Yes, you'll want minimal sized internal fenders and you'll learn to pull in with the tires just an inch off the right side fender so you have a chance of getting out.
.030 skin at least, not .024. 3/4 ply floor, not OSB. 16" OC supports, 5200 lb axles. A good 24' will weigh 4000~4400 lbs so figure that in on your towing. You will need a load leveling hitch setup and 10,000 lb hitch rating. I can pull the box at 8500 lbs with our 2004 5.4L Super Crew but even with the load leveling hitch it's a bitch in a cross wind because the back end of the F150 is so light. Truck pulls the load no problem. Our regular puller now is a 1993 7.5L gas F350 DRW. Easy pull, 65 MPH @ 7 MPG.
Yes above on color. I see a lot of sexy black trailers for sale. Note that without insulation, the inside ceiling of a box with an uncoated roof will easy hit 100F. Black makes it 10x worse, so forget black IMHO. I topped ours with white MobileCoat which REALLY helped with the heat. Added a 13,500 AC unit and a 3500 Champion generator. Hang old blankets inside to cut the volume in half and we can keep it 80F inside when it's over 100 outside.
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The number one most important thing, above everything else, is to make sure that it has 16 inch load range e tires. There is not a 15 inch trailer tire made that is not total garbage. Trust me on this I've been through it.
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We've had no issues in the last two years with out ST225-15s. The tire guys will all tell you though that ST225s are speed rated at 65 MPH. Nearly EVERYONE I talk to runs faster than that. And has problems at some time. I run 64 MPH, 2000 RPM in the F350 - that's where it pulls best and downshifts out of OD least. If going farther than the local track (15 miles) I carry a spare, spare has never been on the ground.
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After having several trailers, I decided last year to order a trailer built exactly how I wanted it. Hopefully this will last me many years and I will be happy with it. So far, so good!
Here is what I ended up with:
28' box, there is never enuff room;
Extended tongue to reach under the overhang of my camper;
2- 6,000# axles so I would get the big brakes and 16" 8 lug wheels with load range E tires, and to handle the 5500 pound Duesenberg with plenty of reserve capacity; (my old 28' trailer came with 15's, I bought over a dozen tires in 4 years before I switched to 16's, never had another problem)
torflex axles: no springs to maintain, no shackles to wear out;
22 degree down torflex axles to lower the trailer compared to the standard, because the 16" tires are pretty tall;
Spread axle for more stability;
6" extra height, might need to haul a pickup some day;
Flat nose because I tow behind a camper most of the time;
Aluminum floor with the ribs running front to rear. Easy to clean, no finish to wear off, light weight. (I looked at a trailer with the ribs running side to side. How would you sweep it?)
All aluminum construction. It weighs #3463, 1000 pounds less than my old steel 28';
1" aluminum square tube frame in the roof and walls, 12" on center roof support tubing - my last trailer had hat channel, not tubing, and it collapsed under snow, destroying the trailer. that won't happen with this trailer;
Storage compartment in the floor;
lots of E-track in the floor. I haul a variety of cars and stuff. It seems that the standard 4 D-rings are never in the ideal place. With the E-track, any length car can be tied down in the right spot, as well as the cargo in front of the car;
110 volt florescent lights at a 45 degree angle in the upper corners, + 12 volt LED lighting. I like lots of light.
Escape door size and height carefully plotted out so all my car doors will open. Still, they messed up and put it too high so I made them lower it.
Silver color because it's cooler than black and it's not white.
I went with lightning trailers, because they seem to have the most bang for the buck in an all aluminum trailer. I know that not all of my requirements are the same for everyone, but I hope this helps give you some ideas.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/escape%20door_zpsgw9uacyu.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/inside%20lightning_zpssjnamnbm.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/167_zpsxmklwwh9.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/wheels_zpsme7i7tcn.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/maytag_zps1tcwicao.jpg)
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/rig_zpstdvljmkl.jpg)
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Wow, when can I borrow that trailer, Joel? ;D ;D
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(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d137/HemiJoel/trailer/maytag_zps1tcwicao.jpg)
You need all that to haul around a washing machine? ;D ;D ;D
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LOL - lots of Maytag Repairman jokes when he opens the hood.
>28' box, there is never enuff room;
Double LOL - 24' looks long, lots of room for a car, quad, tool box, generator....until you park a 235" dragster in it.
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Wow, when can I borrow that trailer, Joel? ;D ;D
I'm more jealous of his trailer than his car LOL
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Wow, when can I borrow that trailer, Joel? ;D ;D
For you, anytime I'm not using it. For anyone else: don't ask! ;D
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Maytag? never heard about that !
What car is that?who made them?
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It is a fascinating story:
In 1903, Fred Duesenberg went to work for Rambler in Kenosha, Wisconsin. After a year, he came back to his hometown of Mason City Iowa and announced plans to build his automobile. Along with his brother Augie, he designed and built a prototype in 1905, which he called the "Marvel". With attorney Edward R. Mason he formed the Mason Motor Car Company in 1906 to produce an automobile called The Mason. (Due to Mason putting up 2/3 of the money to get started, he got the naming rights)
Under the Duesenberg brothers guidance the Mason was built from 1906 to 1909 in Des Moines, Iowa.
The two brothers also designed the Mason engine which was a two cylinder opposed engine with 5 x5 bore and stroke, and overhead valves. The two cylinder Mason-Duesenberg engine was "One of the swiftest and strongest in the world!" according to the 1906 magazine ad below.
(http://www.american-automobiles.com/images/Mason-1906.jpg)
In mid 1909, Senator Fred L. Maytag (who had already made a fortune in farm equipment and washing machines) purchased the Mason Automobile Company, and the name of the car was changed to Maytag. The Maytag succeeded the Mason with very little change in the automobiles themselves. Mr. Maytag moved the factory to Waterloo Iowa, and stuck with it for 1 year. Then he sold his interest in the company back to Mason, who eventually sold it to investment bankers. The car used both names, Mason-Maytag and just Mason during this period. With the 2 cylinder engine quickly becoming obsolete, the Duesenberg brothers designed a 4 cylinder engine with an extraordinary power to weight ratio. But the company refused to use it, opting to purchase cheaper engines from an outside source for their new 4 cylinder model. Thus the Duesenbergs left the company and moved to St. Paul, MN in 1913, where they began building their 4 cylinder "walking beam" engine for race cars, marine, and aircraft use. (BTW, the reason they chose St. Paul, was so they could conveniently test at the new concrete 2 mile oval, the short lived Twin City Speedway. https://minneapolisparkhistory.com/tag/twin-city-motor-speedway/ Even though the Duesenberg 4 cylinder was not used in the Mason passenger cars, it was used in the Mason racing cars and placed 9th in the 1913 Indy 500 )
Production of Mason-Maytags was very slim in 1913, and ended in 1914. The company went into receivership in 1915.
There are no known surviving 4 cylinder Mason-Maytags, and 17 known 2 cylinder cars, (or remnants thereof) with perhaps 7 or 8 wearing the Maytag Badge.
(http://www.american-automobiles.com/images/Maytag-1910.jpg)
I was fortunate enough to have acquired this 1910 Model C, formerly of the Harrah Collection, in fully restored condition.
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Thanks for the knowledge Joel. Looks like nice restoration
Im in to older cars to. Now me and my father is doing a
Packard 633 Roadster. We got it from the paintshop a couple
of week ago. We are waiting for the upholstery guy to put in
the upholstery and the painter to paint the fenders and
the splash apron so maby next summer its drivabel
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Drop the Maytag and put one of these in the trailer! ;)
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e1/2001_Hadman_Chassis%2C_Top_Fuel_Dragster_%27Victor%27_pic1.JPG/1280px-2001_Hadman_Chassis%2C_Top_Fuel_Dragster_%27Victor%27_pic1.JPG
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You could restart the Mason Motor Company cheaper than buying/running one of those things.