FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Yellow Truck on June 05, 2016, 09:57:06 PM
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So I want to have an oil pressure gauge, oil pressure sending unit (I miss my idiot light), and an oil pressure cut off switch. Problem is space and using t-connectors is pretty kludgy - especially on the 4WD where the oil filter sticks out sideways. I've been told there is a manifold block or such that I can get that will allow three outputs from one input, but I am not having any success with my somewhat random google searches.
I'm sure someone in this group has wanted to do something similar - any suggestions as to the term I should be looking up?
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Why not run a small AN line to the fender well and make a small manifold out of AN fittings or something like a fuel block. That would get it to an area where there is more room.
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Thanks for the suggestion. It is a better idea than the double tees, but I still need something kind of messy at the other end, and I'd rather not have more holes in the fender.
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This is what i did to keep the original dash gauge, add a mechanical gauge and put in a switch for my electric choke. I drilled and tapped a hole in the side of a tee fitting for the switch. It all clears the PS pump and AC compressor. It's been on for 2 years now with no problem. I rerouted the fuel line to get rid of the 90 fitting when I put a Holley fuel pump on and I didn't have to change anything for my oil plumbing. 2nd picture shows my PS pump mount. It's all under there. Hope this helps.
Erich
My first post! Been lurking here so long I forgot I hadn't posted yet.
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Is the cut off switch for an electric fuel pump?
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-6151mrg?seid=srese1&gclid=CJan4P2Wk80CFQyHaQodQlgK1g
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66FAIRLANE - yes, it is for an electric fuel pump.
Eric - that is quite the configuration.
Barry, as always, thanks.
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This is what i did to keep the original dash gauge, add a mechanical gauge and put in a switch for my electric choke. I drilled and tapped a hole in the side of a tee fitting for the switch. It all clears the PS pump and AC compressor. It's been on for 2 years now with no problem. I rerouted the fuel line to get rid of the 90 fitting when I put a Holley fuel pump on and I didn't have to change anything for my oil plumbing. 2nd picture shows my PS pump mount. It's all under there. Hope this helps.
Erich
My first post! Been lurking here so long I forgot I hadn't posted yet.
That is a nice and clean solution!
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This is what i did to keep the original dash gauge, add a mechanical gauge and put in a switch for my electric choke. I drilled and tapped a hole in the side of a tee fitting for the switch. It all clears the PS pump and AC compressor. It's been on for 2 years now with no problem. I rerouted the fuel line to get rid of the 90 fitting when I put a Holley fuel pump on and I didn't have to change anything for my oil plumbing. 2nd picture shows my PS pump mount. It's all under there. Hope this helps.
Erich
My first post! Been lurking here so long I forgot I hadn't posted yet.
Welcome Erich
That is a sweet looking stockish FE!
You would not run the plastic tubing though when you start it.
It will melt and start a fire and ruin your whole day.
A 1/8" copper tubing at the hardware store will fix you right up. Much safer.
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I will second the use of 1/8 copper tube. The plastic also has the downfall of a single taper on the ferule so it doesn't crush it. Using the copper gives you the double ferule which is much more secure. Another neat trick I use is to carefully wrap the copper line around a round piece of tubing a couple of times to act as a "spring" - like the older brake lines on older full frame vehicles - it will take vibration and work hardening out of the line. Learned this the hard way in may 70 fastback ! Poor carpet !!
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-4 SS braided hose works as well and is even more resistant to damage.
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Autometer sells premade -3 braided kits in various lengths - small cross section and easy to route.
I would just mount one of those fuel line manifolds to a bracket on the frame rail of coming off the pan rail - hang the sensors, and run the -3 into the gauge from there.
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You would not run the plastic tubing though when you start it.
It will melt and start a fire and ruin your whole day.
A 1/8" copper tubing at the hardware store will fix you right up. Much safer.
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I agree on the nylon tubing, I found out the hard way years ago. That was only run to a gauge when I primed the engine on the stand. It was replaced with copper when I stabbed the engine back in my truck.
Erich
Sorry, I messed up the quote thing
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Thanks for the suggestions. I was at a hydraulics fittings place getting a new hose for my PS pump made and they had a big poster on the wall of different fittings. Saw this one, cost me $4! Giddy as a school boy. Sometimes it is as simple as walking into the right store (i.e. not an auto parts store).
(http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/410dyno/2016-06-08%2016.37.46.jpg)
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Paul, don't want to be negative but this puts me to mind of personal history where I learned a valuable lesson. I had a similar setup on a GM vehicle at the time, some 35 years ago. The wall thickness on the fitting at the root of the thread was not able to withstand the normal vibration (or harmonics?) seen in operation. IMHO my attachments acted to magnify that and the result was a cracked fitting and rapid oil loss (thankfully no fire). It didn't blow clean off and I was also thankful for that. Not sure if others have had this experience or maybe I just had a poorly made fitting, but I felt I should post my experience to you.
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Len - I will watch it closely. The oil filter fitting is not an easy one to find.
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For electric pump shut off you can use a tachometric relay (Bosch make one) or the relay that LPG cars use. Fits under dash, no extra crap in engine bay.
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Ya gotta be close to fire-up, will there be video? Always good when another FE joins the land of the living 8)
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Len, yes there will be. Set up the throttle linkage tonight, need to purge the PS system because I'm routing it through the transmission cooler in the rad (rad was from an F250 with an automatic and a transmission cooler so I re-purposed it) and I need to flush it tomorrow. Pressure tested the cooling system and found a leak where the hose was not tight enough. Need to get the oil pump drive in and the dizzy on, wire up the fuel pump, put some gas in it and ... pray?
Never done this before so I'm pretty excited. Oh yes, need to put the insurance back on it tomorrow.
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For electric pump shut off you can use a tachometric relay (Bosch make one) or the relay that LPG cars use. Fits under dash, no extra crap in engine bay.
Andy, I looked up "tachometric relay" and I see what they do, but I'm curious where you would get the low oil pressure signal to trigger the relay?. Do you use the idiot light signal?