FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Yellow Truck on May 30, 2016, 05:54:42 PM
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I had the engine mostly assembled when I realized the machinist had put the rear cam plug in backwards (concave rather than convex). To remove it I had to drive it out from one side and did a little damage to the chamfered lip. Being a rookie at this I have no idea what kind of pressures this seal will be exposed to, I realize it is right up at the end of the cam which will be spinning at 1/2 engine rpm, so there may be considerable local oil pressure.
My question - is the Motorcraft diesel silicone good enough or should I consider something else, such as epoxy to complete the seal? Do I need to worry about the new seal (I have the right part) going in too far and taking the endplay out of the cam?
(http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/410dyno/2016-05-30%2016.23.18.jpg)
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If you have a new cam plug it should stop on a lip in the block, before it comes close to hitting the cam. The Ford TA-31 diesel sealer should be fine to seal it, because there really shouldn't be much pressure at the plug, but having said that I have had them pop out. I've put mechanical stops there in the past, drilling and tapping a couple of 8-32 holes on either side of the hole boss and using some short screws and either washers or a strap to keep the plug in place. Almost nobody does stuff like that, but after you've had one pop out you take precautions...
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You'll be fine. Put some silicone around the lip of the new plug and drive it in. There's a shoulder that it sits up against, so you can't drive it in too far. That's the beauty of installing it the correct way, there is a mile of room between the end of the cam and the plug.
I usually take some silicone and fill in the gap around the plug after you drive it in. Smooth it out with your finger, wipe off the excess, and you're done.
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I noticed on the pond block I have that there are 3 small threaded holes around the outside of the cam plug for some kinda strap or restraining plate. They look factory but I guess could have been done by the previous owner. It's a good idea.
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There is theoretically no oil pressure there. If you notice on your posted image there is a drilled hole through the rear of the cam next to the center drill. (Your cam may have 2 drilled holes) This hole allows all oil pressure in the void between the cam plug and the cam to vent through that drilled hole to the crankcase.
I have drilled and tapped screws into my Pond block, but because of the different expansion rates of steel plug/aluminum bloc. I also made up my own aluminum plug with an o-ring seal
(I have also had a cam plug pop out...)
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I put the plug in dry and finish with a multi-purpose epoxy. The multi-purpose epoxy comes off decent with a chisel and chips right off. JB Weld seems to be very difficult to get off later. JMO
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I love this forum.
I was thinking I was ready to put in the bushing, mount the flywheel and clutch and find out if I can get the engine in with the headers on (on the 4WD trucks one header wraps around the engine mount) - but when I put in the new throw out bearing I noticed the points of the clutch fork are worn flat. I think I'll get a new one while I can get at it. New boot and spring while I'm at it. It will slow me down a little but better than having to go back later.
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The fork - C3AZ-7515-C - does not seem available at any price. Will have to use the old one, at least I can get on with the installation.
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You may be able to build it up with weld and grind/file it back to shape.