FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: SE2839 on April 01, 2012, 09:36:06 PM
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Update to the Comet project is down the page a ways, I probably should have started this as a new thread. This thread had started in 2012 around the upgraded power plant. For 2014 it's all about getting that power to the ground through front & rear suspension upgrades and more tire .
I took a trip up to Michigan last week to sit in on the dyno session of my 445 stroker built by Barry R. I had Barry reuse some of the pieces from my last 390 build which had less than 500 miles on it including a set of C6AE-R heads. The iron heads surely cost me some power as was expected but the investment in the iron heads had already been made as well as the headers and the desire to keep the original look was worth a few ponies. Horse power was consistently between 444 and 448 with a peak of 456@6000 that Barry attributed to technique more than any change made to the engine, torque numbers were in the upper 460's to a high of 476@4200.
I am looking forward to installing this new jewel but while the engine is still out I am taking advantage of the room available to install a disc brake upgrade complete with dual bowl master cylinder and new pre bent lines with OE 1967 distribution block and proportioning valve so more pics to follow. Below is a detailed description of the engine build and the drivetrain behind it, (*) symbol represents those parts which were re purposed from my previous 390 and provided to Barry for use on this engine.
Engine: Prison Break 445 Stroker Built by Barry Rabotnick and Survival Motorsports. West Bloomfield, Mi
Seasoned (.030 Over) 390 Block, Bored & Honed with Torque Plates Installed, Line Honed, Zero Decked
Survival Motorsports Balanced 445ci Stroker Rotating Assembly:
Scat 4.250 inch Stroke Cast Crank
Scat 6.700 inch BBC I Beam Rods with ARP Bolts
Probe Forged 4.080 Diameter 21cc Dished Pistons, 9.8:1 SCR with 72cc Heads
Total Seal Rings 1/16-1/16-3/16 File Fit Moly Rings
Federal Mogul ¾ Grove 270° Race Bearings, Federal Mogul 1445M Cam Bearings
*Competition Cams K33-245-4 Magnum Solid Cam and Lifter Kit:
*282S Solid Lifter Cam .571 Lift/ 282 Duration/ 110° Lobe Separation/ 104° Centerline
*835-16 Mechanical Flat Tappet Solid Lifters
*972-16 Spring Set with Retainers(740-16) and Locks(612-16)
*2108 Magnum Double Roller Timing Set
*C6AE-R Heads- 2.09/1.65 Cobra Jet Valves, Bowl Blended, Gasket Matched, Bronze guides, Hardened seats, Viton seals
*OE 427 Adjustable Rockers on OE Shafts with Precision Oil Pumps End Supports and Rocker Spacers
*Precision Oil Pumps 3/8 inch Ball & Cup Pushrods
Precision Oil Pumps Blue Printed Melling M-57 High Volume Oil Pump, ARP Hardened Oil Pump Drive
Milodon 7 Quart Front Sump Oil Pan with Pick Up
*Canton Windage Tray with Oil Pan Stud Kit
Fel-Pro Passenger Gaskets w/1020 Head Gasket & Blue Thunder Intake Gasket
Professional Products Harmonic Balancer
*Re manufactured Water Pump- 1965 Casting High Volume/Severe Duty
Blue Thunder 2x4 Medium Riser Intake, Linkage, Fuel Log
Survival Motorsports Custom FE 2x4 Holley Based Quick Fuel 750cfm Race Carburetors
*Re curved OE Distributor with Pertronix Ignitor III Ignition Module
*Pertronix Flame Thrower III Ignition Coil
Ford Powertrain Applications Tri Y Headers
Custom 3 inch Rear Exit Exhaust with 3 inch Magna Flow Mufflers
*Mercury Script Pent Roof Valve Covers
Blue Thunder 2x4 Oval Air Cleaner
Drivetrain: Performance Transmissions 500hp Wide Ratio C-6 1st=2.72-1, 2nd=1.54-1, 3rd=1-1
Hughes 35-30 (3000 Stall) Converter
3.89-1 Ford 9 inch
(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff379/SE2839/2012March27165.jpg)
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I think you have an all around solid package.
I doubt you will miss the few extra ponies at the upper end the Ed heads would give you.
You may need a pretty good set of tires on the back and a spare set in the shed. lol
I would put a set of Caltracs on. If you get into a wheel hop situation it could get expensive.
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With a bit of luck I will know by Monday, I have a four day weekend that begins tomorrow and I have gotten a jump on the disc brake conversion before the engine goes in. Traction will be the next hurdle, the plan is to start with frame connectors then look at improving the hook with tires, suspension and maybe a mini tub. Cal Tracs are the likely choice when I get there, in the mean time perhaps I can buy a gross of tires from the Price Club.
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It's Alive!
It was not with out its challenges, the park rod dropped while setting the linkage position so I had a crash course in transmissions 101. Then the oil pressure at 100+ psi cold idle and closer to 140 above 1500 RPM blew the seal on first start up, replacing the seal and sinching a little tighter permitted me to put a 25 mile run on it before another cold start balloned the oil filter and blew the seal for a second time but this was easily fixed by replacing the off the shelf Tuff Gard with one specifically suited to high pressure and that trouble was solved too. This engine has alot of torque and the stockish tires do not stand a chance of transferring the power to the ground, stomping the throttle at a 10-15 mile per hour roll resulted in the car filling with tire smoke and doing the same at 55 still breaks them loose. Makes me feel like a kid again, I love it! Looking forward to this years cruising.
(http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff379/SE2839/100_1501.jpg)
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Your oil pressure problem sounds similar to the one I just had on my SOHC. What pump are you running? Are you running a high pressure spring, or a shim behind the stock spring, or anything like that?
Glad to see your car out on the road; that thing looks cool!
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The pump is from Doug at Precision Oil Pumps, I just had Barry order a High Volume so I can not say how or what was done to it. When I went to sit in on the dyno session Barry seemed surprised by the high pressure as well. Once it is warmed up the idle pressure is a bit more reasonable at 40-45 while idling at 800 rpm and 80 at 3000 rpm or 55 mph but when it is cold it will wind the gauge all the way around and peg it on the back side of the stop or approximately 150 psi at 2500 rpm. I called Doug and he said that that was not unusual and running a 5w30 would drop it by about 10 psi and switching to a synthetic would see another 5 psi drop. Doug is the one that recommended the Fram HP1 filter and so far no more issues but I do not rev it any higher than what is needed to keep it running until it is good and warm. Ed
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You shouldn't have to mini-tub your beautiful Cyclone to get traction. My street 1966 Fairlane GT gets great traction with a set of Cal-tracs, an Eaton Tru-trac, and M/T 275-60/15 drag radials on 8" wheels. I was amazed at the difference that the M/Ts made for street driving. I made a 525 mile trip last summer to the FCA nationals with them on and they drove fine.
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I like your cars stance and I would prefer not to mini tub, what is your off set? Any rubbing issues? While I probably saw your car at the Nats there were so many and it was so hot that I made the rounds early then would go in and out of the air throughout the day so I can not recall for certain. Living a mere 40 miles away I was there, it was good time that I'd like to do again.
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The wheels have a 4-3/4" backspacing on a 15x8 wheel. American Racing can make the TTII wheels at custom offsets for a reasonable price. If I were doing it again, I'd go with a 5" backspacing and fine tune the with a 1/8" wheel spacer if necessary. I did have to trim the inside back edge of the wheelwell because it rubbed on big bumps, but that's not noticeable unless you get out the calipers.
That was a stinkin' hot day for the nationals, and I couldn't stay for the awards ceremony. That was my first time having a car there...wish the weather had cooperated a bit more.
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I ran 275/60/15 BFG drag radials on the back of my 66 Comet without any trimming. I did get some rubbing initially, so I put in poly rear spring bushings which stopped the majority of rubbing. The only rubbing I got after that was with 4 people in the car going over speed bumps or such. These tires were mounted on Ford Explorer rims. I am not sure what the offset was but most likely 4 1/2 inches. Your car looks awesome.
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I also had some 275/60-15 BFG's on the back of my Cyclone (I don't have the car anymore) and they are tight. I think the wheels were 15x7 with 4 1/2 backspace.
(http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq290/cyclonescott/100_0718.jpg)
(http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq290/cyclonescott/100_0717.jpg)
(http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq290/cyclonescott/100_0736.jpg)
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My Fairlane had 275/60/15 BFG's and Hankooks on 8.5" Autodrags. They rubbed a lot. Inside and outside. We seem to like our cars a little lower over here though. After 17 years it finally gave me the shits enough to change and after much soul searching, sleepless nights, thinking I may have turned gay etc, I finally fitted 255/60/15. And actually I quite like them. They lowered the back of my car another 1/2" ;D
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/newmanandy/Andy%20Stuff/IMG_4486.jpg)
(http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac109/newmanandy/Andy%20Stuff/IMG_4482.jpg)
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Update, The engine as it was described at the beginning of this thread had an issue with using water which turned out to be a problem with the block and at the same time the solid lifter cam began losing a lobe so a new engine was built up using a roller cam which had then Dyno'd at 468 horse power and some 482 pounds of torque. Since that time I have just enjoyed driving the car, attending the local car show scene and making an occasional 8.34 second tire melting pass at the local 1/8 mile track.
Well after taking a year or so off from making any big changes to the Comet (aka "saving $$") some major improvements are currently in process to increase both the traction at the track in a quest for lower ET's and the overall driveability while on the the street. Warning, this list is long and still growing.
New for 2014!
Gear Vendors under/overdrive
Custom made driveshaft with 1350 U-joints
N C4AW-B 30 nodular case 9 inch third member (9L6) 11/6/1969
Detroit Locker 31 spline carrier from Bill Elliott's #9 raced once at Talladega in 1987 setting a 212.809 mph standing track record (a small piece of history)
Richmond 4.11 gearset also from Bill Elliott used for one race at Darlington in 2003
Strange 31 spline axles
Stock 9 inch axle housing narrowed 2.875 inches (1 7/16 per side)
Mini tubbed wheel wells 1 1/2" to the frame
Crites sub frame connectors
Crites spring relocators moved springs inboard 3"
Calvert's split mono leaf springs (+1inch)
Calvert's Caltrac traction bars
Calvert's/Rancho 9000 series drag shocks (rear)
Calvert 90/10 drag shocks (front)
Open Tracker Racing rollerized spring perches (front)
Street or Track adjustable strut rods
Moog RK8121 lower control arms, replaced bushings with Open Tracker Racing roller bearings
Rebuilt original upper control arms possibly doing the Shelby 1" drop
NOS inner & outer tie rods, adjusting sleeves, idler and pitman arms from a store that had closed in the 70's
Carl's Ford Parts 427 type fuel line with canister filter (pump to carb)
Fine Lines 3/8's S/S fuel line (tank to pump)
Auto Krafters 3/8's sending unit
275/50-15 Mickey Thompson E/T Streets (with room in the wells for more)
The car is currently at the chassis shop having the parts from Crites installed, 9" housing narrowed and the wheel wells widened. When it returns home (hopefully) next week the front end parts and over drive unit can begin going in. Any tips or suggestions as this comes together? I have read of several people who have encountered some issues with the Gear Vendors install so I do expect that to be the biggest challenge. I also expect that once completed this car will drive, handle and perform like never before.
Come on summer, looking forward to this years events!
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You're going to love those Opentracker roller spring perches as they make a massive improvement to handing and steering effort.
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TUBS I had run a 255/60-15 BFG tire last year on an 8" Torq Thrust D wheel with 4.5" back space. Despite reading several posts to the contrary this did rub and so I had added shackles as a temporary fix. I would still get some rubbing when cornering, on driveway approaches or with back seat passengers so mini tubs and springs moved inward were the chosen means to regain my stock ride height while sporting an even larger tire and wheel combination. Mini tubbing to the frame rails and moving the springs nets nearly an additional 3" per side while only moving the the wheel well itself inward 1 1/4" or so and is hardly perceptable with the trunk open.
Tires The BFG's while being a nice tire for cruising provided little traction at the strip, the new tires are 1" shorter at 26" (same as stock) but are an additional 2.3" wider at the tread and made of a much better compound for transmitting the power to the pavement. The tire and wheel combo mounted on the newly narrowed housing is just 8/10's of an inch wider overall with an additional 8" of tread than were the 215/70-14s mounted on 14x6 Torq Thrust D's that I had run up until last year.
I have a few pics of where the project stood as of last weekend, everything is still in the mock-up phase at this point but progress is being made. I even tried my hand at tig welding the fillet pass on one of the axle ends which thankfully was covered up with a final pass that looked much nicer.
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More Pics
Frame cut and spring relocated using Crites kit.
Test fitting Calvert split mono leafs.
Checking new tire fitment.
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Are you going to be reassembled and running in time for the FE Reunion?
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I would really like to but probably not, too far from done and too far away. I am planning on attending the Meltdown Drags in Byron Il. July 19th, 20th and 21st and I may also try to attend the FCA Nationals along with the Downriver Cruise the weekend of June 27th and 28th.
My chassis guy was sick last weekend so I am already a week behind schedule but I am hopeful he'll have the tubs completed and the rear end installed by this weekend and to have it back home by next weekend so I can begin the front suspension and overdrive install. Ed
Pics
Opentracker suspension & NOS steering
Gear Vendors under/overdrive with Mustang speedo adaptor
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A little more progress was made this weekend, both wheel tubs are installed so more pics to share.
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My Comet came home today and went right up on the rack for further upgrades The shocks I purchased from Calvert are too long and are bottomed out at ride height with an empty tank so something else will be needed. I called Calvert and I will be sending the rear section of the springs back to swap out from a plus 1" to a minus 1" for a more original appearance. They say that this will eliminate any shock that they sell so they are issuing a refund. I will reinstall what was on the car for now and return the Calvert's as the rest of the planned work progresses. Who here has moved their springs inboard and what shocks are you using?
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Gear Vendors under/overdrive with Mustang speedo adaptor
Hmmmm.... what's the Mustang speedo adaptor all about? Does it change the angle? Got any pics?
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The Mustang speedo adapter is basically a small (narrow) 90 degree housing that has the GM speedo gear installed on one end which slides into the gear vendor o/d and a cable attch point on the other and when installed on the unit it directs the cable downward and forward. I do not have a picture of it by itself but I have one with it still in the bag and the pic with everything laid out in the previous post has it already inserted into the o/d unit with the cable also attached. I will try to get a pic of it as I install it. I am going to the Columbus swap meet this weekend so it may not be until next weekend. By the way I have read your chronical several times on the install and I wish to thank you for the very detailed account.
pics added of Mustang 90 installed onto overdrive
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No problem. Glad it can be of some help. I didn't know about the Mustang adaptor when I bought mine. I needed to beat on my floor and I am still not happy about the cable. Will be shooting them an email. Thanks for the info.
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Yet more progress The shocks I'd originally purchased from Calverts were bottomed out at ride height due to having moved the springs inboard 3" and while they do offer another shock that is 1.5" shorter I was also looking to get a lower ride height. I was told by their rep Travis that if I were to exchange the back half of the spring to get my desired ride height that I would be unable to use their shocks as the shorter shock would present the same issue that I have now with less lift from the spring but that if I were to use lowering blocks (up to 1.5") the shorter shock would work with no ill affect caused by the lowering blocks. To ensure that I would have no further problems caused by a cheaply made block I made a pair from 1" thick steel and 1/2" rod to to correct ride height to correct the ride height and Calverts are sending me the replacement shocks.
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1018139/fullsize/lowering-block.jpg) 1" lowering block
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017500/fullsize/ride-height-set.jpg) side view with lowering block installed
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1018124/fullsize/20140418_161006.jpg) rear view with lowering block installed
I've also begun the Gear Vendors install so far I had test fit the tailshaft and the o/d to determine if I would have fitment issues which (despite their claims) I did so I marked the area that would need relief then took a chisel tool from an air hammer and blunted the end and used that to massage the trans tunnel. Another test fit and all was good! The rest of the install was a cake walk.
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017501/fullsize/trans-tunnel-clearanced.jpg) tunnel clearanced
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017502/fullsize/gear-vendors-installed.jpg) GV installed
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017503/fullsize/gv-installed-with-exhaust.jpg) GV install completed
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Question, How much noise should a Detroit Locker make? I was preparred for the clicking when rounding corners but I also get a loud "chunk" sound when I go heavy into the throttle in a straight line. Is this a normal part of how the DL operates? After the first time it did it I took it out and had the set up rechecked, the pinion was shimed a little tighter and the lash readjusted, the mesh is good but the noise is still there. I figure that I have two options, if it is not right then I try to break it and if it is right then I break something else.
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Hmmm, when accelerating in a straight line my Detroit lockers are pretty quiet. Are you hearing the noise when mashing the throttle from a standing start, or just accelerating from a roll?
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I suspected as much. So far I've mostly hit it from a roll at this point, I have not really stood hard on it yet from a standing start.
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The Detroit Lockers I've messed with were loud banging deals. One in a Dana 60 and another in a Dana 70. Never tried one in a 9in Ford. But after a fairly sharp turn was made they would stay unlocked until I touched the throttle again and then "bang" they would lock up. I always wanted to try out the Detroit Soft Locker. Supposedly they are much quieter but they are also priced a bit higher.
I'm diggin' this Comet by the way. 8)
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First off I have to say that is one nice ride you have there. You have certainly spared no expense
to make it right.
As for the Detroit lockers. I have a soft locker in my 78 F150 that has a well built 460 in it
and it is totally quiet. You can feel it engage but that is about it.
I have a Nascar built locker in my 66 Fairlane and it is quite noisy when you make a really.
tight turn like into a parking lot or out onto the highway. Once you straighten it up and if you
romp on it hard it will bang some until it locks and then its quiet.
Yours is probably fine. just have to get used to the racket.
I doubt you will break it.
Enjoy
garyv
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Thank you for the replies and compliments! This DL having come out of Bill Elliotts '87 Talladega car is a Nascar unit, I've spoken to Bill's brother Dan and he assures me that the noise is normal for these so I guess that it will just be a matter of getting used to it. Had I known that the Nascar units were this noisy I would have gone a different route but at least I know that it will handle 212 mph, lol.
Here are a couple more shots of the progression, the front end will be next;
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017901/fullsize/20140415_182140.jpg) Original interior with new Moss Green carpet and Dark Green floor mats installed
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1017899/fullsize/20140415_221618.jpg) Carl's Ford Parts 427 fuel canister installed
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Definitely sounds like the noise is the affect of an older unit. The lockers I have used are pretty quiet, and the Soft Locker I have in my Mach is pretty much dead quiet except for the light ratcheting while turning. I don't hear a thing otherwise.
If you're going to try and break the Locker, I'm pretty sure something (everything) else will break first :)
I like your changes that you are doing. Looks like you are heading pretty much the same direction that I am on my Mach 1. I am planning on a Gear Vendors also, but that won't be till next year. It will be nice not to have to cruise at 3000-3500+rpm. Right now I avoid highways unless they are old highways that don't have much traffic, and interstates are out of the question. So what is your final drive ratio with the GV?
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Well perhaps my comment "try to break it" was a bit overstated and easily taken out of context. I will go out and enjoy the car (street & strip) and "if it breaks then it breaks" could have been a better way of stating my thoughts as I have no actual intentions of deliberately abusing all of my hard work or $$. 8)
The Gear Vendors is a great upgrade! I had intended to wait until next year as well but when I changed from 3.89s to 4.11s and given the fact that I am +30 miles from just about everything I decided to just take the hit and save on the wear & tear. Final drive in my case is 3.20-1 (4.11 x 0.78= 320.58). I took about a 200 mile road trip to Moonshine Il. yesterday, mixed driving on country back roads, some county highways and small bit on the interstate. My average speed was 62mph @ 27-2800rpm (75mph @ 3k on the interstate) with 26" tall ET Streets and I netted 12.5 mpg combined.
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1019163/fullsize/42614-moonshine.jpg)
Also worthy of note, I took my GPS along and it verified that the speedometer is accurate so Kudos to the guys at G.V. I had been running the highest tooth count speedo gear and it was still off by just a few mph, recently my speedo had begun to tick and I was thinking the cable was going bad but when I had pulled the gear during the upgrade I found that most of the teeth were nearly worn off of the plastic gear within only a few thousand miles.
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The interior looks great! I have a 66 Caliente too, a convertible, and it needs all the interior which of course isn't reproduced like the Fairlane stuff.
I also moved my springs like that but in a Convertible there isn't room to widen the wells because of the top mechanism. It still helps for room though.
Can't use a GearVendors in a convert either, the extra crossbrace in the way.
On the Detroit Locker. Mine would scare the beejezus out of me at times. Have me checking the mirror to see what ran into me. But that is normal. A local shop always has used ones because customers get them installed, drive them and decide they want a normal limited slip.
I like what you've done, should be a great ride.
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Thank you Tom and Doug! The first Friday Fun Night of the season is this coming Friday so I am hoping that the rain will be taken out of the forecast so that I can test out what has been done to it so far as I haven't even begun the front suspension yet. There is no track prep on Fridays but I am still hoping for mid - low 7's in the 1/8 which should be quite an improvement over the 8.2's that I'd ran last year.
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Well, the rain stayed away, the track was clean and the air was crisp! My ET's were unchanged and my top speed was down but the traction issues are no more and per the tower announcer and the track owner the Comet does now put air under the front tires. I am having an issue now with the trans not wanting to shift with the engine against the rev limiter at 6200 rpm unless I come off the throttle which I suspect contributed to the disappointing ET's and lower speed. I have the passing gear linkage set to be fully engaged when at full throttle so I will try readjusting it to be looser but I suspect that it is something else perhaps in the governor? I experimented with the Gear Vendor splitting first gear but with the trans not shifting correctly it did little good then on the way home it had occurred to me that I should have tried splitting second and perhaps been able to forego a shift into drive and the need to have let off the pedal that second time.
As a side note the staging guys were puzzled by the noises coming from the Detroit Locker each time that I pulled into the lanes but I am becoming a little more used to it and nothing broke.
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Your going to need a paparazzi so we can see some air. ::)
Since the C6 still sounds like an auto, have you tried letting it do it's own thing.
Sometimes you go faster, but not as kool launching.
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I am hoping that the track photographer did get a shot or two, I will know by Wednesday when they post pics from the prior weekend. It is still column shifted and is always left in Drive to do it's own thing. 8)
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Hmmm...
Maybe go the other way. Load the converter and shift using a light.
Actually a video of a run or two will help you a lot. You can watch all the things you cant see
when behind the wheel.
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Sounds like you actually made a BIG improvement from last year! Not shifting at the limiter and having to lift off the gas would KILL your ETs (and explain why your speed was down). So it sounds like once those issues are settled, you'll see that big improvement you were hoping for.
Wish I could help on the tranny issue (other than suggesting a manual ;)), but it's been over 25 years since I used to work at a transmission shop and I've forgotten most of what I knew. And even then we got about 100 Turbo 350 and 400s to every 1 Ford C4 or C6 ::).
Congratulations on getting rid of your traction issues though! Hopefully they got some pics.
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Traction is good now, my 60' times were down considerably by 6/10's of a second on average at 1.60 - 1.70 and reviewing my old slips is far better than my memory as my top speed was not off by as much as I had first thought. In fact it was pretty consistent at around 82 mph and would like have likely been up a little had I not been forced to let off it to allow the trans to shift.
I put the car on the lift yesterday and backed off the passing gear linkage (too much) and no more issues with it not shifting at the limiter. After installing the new carpet I had initially set it up by wedging a 2x4 between the throttle and the drivers seat, I will need to have someone come and hold the throttle through the floor as I reset it to mimic what it will see at the track or when actually passing.
A nice period correct looking ratcheting floor shifter will be added some time down the line at which time I may begin to shift manually and I received a nice shift ball as part of the kit from Gear Vendors with a Mercury head emblem in it which is already wired up and used in place of the floor mounted dimmer that was also included. It has about three feet of wire as a tether so for the time being I can hold as I launch and just set it in the seat next to me when not needed or roll it under the seat while at car shows. Allowing the Gear Vendor to split first happens around 4K which is well inside my power band and while it may sound good in theory it is not ideal even with the lower gearing of the wide ratio trans where as splitting second gear manually does seem to make a lot of sense if done correctly at 5800 or so just before the trans would shift into third on its own at around 6K so long as I disengage it should a shift into third be needed. Timing will be key!
I am told that the track pics from the weekend should be posted late Tuesday night or Wednesday so I am looking forward to seeing just how much the front end does come up. From the drivers seat I could definitely tell the difference in how the car launched compared to before, there was little to no wheel spin, but I had no sense that the tires had left the pavement. Right now the front end is still all stock and the sway bar was left in place by the next track day I will have installed all of the parts from Open Tracker Racing, the Calvert drag shocks and removed the sway bar so I should have even better weight transfer.
I would like to get a Go Pro so I can get some footage to analyze and critic for areas to improve and there are plenty I am sure, it will take some practice to be consistent but I can see that 7's are definitely in my not too distant future.
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Pics are in! Probably not the best launch of the night, left lane had more traction, and a day time shot I am sure would be easier to make out but it is what it is and there does appear to be at least a bit of air under both front tires. That little Pontiac with a 4 cylinder turbo was deceptively quick yet I was a car or two ahead until it came time to shift and I had to let off the throttle. He had red lighted so I'd won the race but he did over take me at the finish line because of the trans issue. Launches were all very straight so now it is time to practice and tune and practice and tune some more.
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1021601/fullsize/ccd-5214-ready.jpg)
(http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1021602/fullsize/ccd-5214-launch.jpg)
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I think I'm seeing some air. Great Stuff!!! ;D
No helmet?
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Night racing tip...when getting air under the tires!
Take apiece of white tape, first aid stuff is best, and wrap a piece at exactly the 12 o'clock position on the steering wheel. Be sure that tape is exactly straight up when those wheels touch down.
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I think I'm seeing some air. Great Stuff!!! ;D
No helmet?
Helmets are not required in the Street Legal Series or at least not with my current times. Maybe if I dip below 7.50 then it may be? I'm not sure. I am fortunate to live in one of the few states that still permit you to ride a motorcycle without one as well, communistic in every other respect but that is another subject.
Thanx machoneman, White tape sounds like a very good tip! Especially given that from inside the car I had no idea that the tires had ever left the ground.
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I think when you start lifting the wheels, lids are required. jmo
It has a different "feel" with the helmet on also.
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Hello group, I am back!
When I stepped away in 2014 I had pulled the 445 stroker, upgraded the modified C6AE-R heads to a set of ported BBM heads which were new to the market at the time. The engine was assembled and the new front suspension had been installed when life got in the way and the project was mothballed, other interests would come n go, and soon 11 years would have past.
So after years of procrastination the engine and chassis have finally been reunited, and the dyno results are in. WerbyFord, I hope that you find this thread, you should know that your Gonkulator was dead-nutz accurate! You'd predicted an increase from 465 to 539hp at the crank and 365hp at the tire. The actual results (drum roll) an increase from 309hp with the iron heads to 366hp at the tire with the BBMs.
The aftermarket support for the FE enthusist has grown and my build with its factory block and BBM heads has become entry level but I invite you to read this thread from the beginning to follow the transformation.
New for 2025-
Cragar SS wheels have replaced the Torque Thrust D's with 15x10s wrapped in 295/55R15 ET Street drag radials now filling the rear wheel wells.
A whole new altitude. Moving away from a lowered sleeper appearance towards that of a period correct R-code tribute.
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Good for you! That’s great. I wasn’t familiar with your build, I will go back to the start and chit out.