FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: JamesonRacing on February 11, 2016, 03:52:10 PM
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Have a blue thunder 1-4V intake, planning to run a Quick Fuel throttle body EFI, which requires a coolant temperature sensor to be mounted on the block side of the thermostat. I also want to run the factory sensor for the idiot lights. What's cleanest option for mounting the second sensor?
Would it make sense to add a port on the back of the manfold to measure the temp at the blocked off area of the water jacket?
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I drill them and add a second bung right next to the original
Here is a hole I drilled with a step bit, super easy, just push the plug in and weld, you end up with much more thread that way
(http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/My427stang/EFI-1.jpg)
Finished product, local welded was a bit overzealous with a big bead, first and last time I used him, but it didn't leak :)
(http://i528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/My427stang/RailsandTB-1.jpg)
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Thanks for the response! You used an aluminum weld bung from one of the fitting suppliers?
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Ross, I don't think that weld bead looks bad at all. Tig welding a small bung on a big hunk of alum is a challenge for starters, and you don't want it cracking, breaking off or leaking. I used to do lots of Tig welding, and my boss impressed on me not to make "tiny welds" as he called them. Idea being a small bead can equal a weak weld joint that could give you problems down the road.
Bruce
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Somebody on the other forum made a spacer to fit between the t-stat housing and manifold. He then tapped it thru the side and put the sensor in there. No welding required :). Later, Travis
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Will this be going on the 'vert, David?
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Somebody on the other forum made a spacer to fit between the t-stat housing and manifold. He then tapped it thru the side and put the sensor in there. No welding required :). Later, Travis
Now that's a great idea. A bit of work but it keeps the integrity of the intake and can be swapped onto another intake later.
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Thanks for the response! You used an aluminum weld bung from one of the fitting suppliers?
I got that one from Summit, but they sell them all over
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Ross, I don't think that weld bead looks bad at all. Tig welding a small bung on a big hunk of alum is a challenge for starters, and you don't want it cracking, breaking off or leaking. I used to do lots of Tig welding, and my boss impressed on me not to make "tiny welds" as he called them. Idea being a small bead can equal a weak weld joint that could give you problems down the road.
Bruce
Well it sure is doing fine, that one has been there for 8 years. I guess I shouldn't knock the guy because of that alone, but it looked a bit over-done to me. I don't even notice it nowadays :) turn the key and go
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I think it looks fine..I agree with Bruce....no small welds on aluminum.I tig weld aluminum at home all the time and 99% of the time I use 1/8 filler rod..
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That's good to know. I do have an alum spool gun for my Mig, but never tried it, easier to drop it off and let someone do it with a better welder. You guys ever try one?
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I tried welding aluminum with my MIG welder a few years ago and was very disappointed in the results. Nowhere near as easy to weld, and didn't appear to be as strong as a TIG weld. Kind of looked like crap, too, although that may have been the operator ???
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I have welded quite a lot alu with mig. Both with a
regular "home" mig and purpose built welder
It dont look like a tig weld but not ugly
Problem with a regular welder is feeding
you need push/pull feeding to have a smoth
feed .
On a regular mig
I tie a broomhadle to the feedhose to keep
it straight. The aluwire is so soft so it bends
and cause eratic feed
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I have a Snap-on YA212, it feeds steel wire in the standard way, my spool gun plugs in the front and uses its own dedicated spool right at the gun tip and a second gas feed.
I have never tried it, Snap-on guy gave me a good deal on it, and I need it so infrequently that I never bothered filling the bottle. I'll have to play with it a little on the Chebby parts :)
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Yes thats what im talking about with a litle practise
it gives ok welds.
In high production situations its much faster than
a tig and gives good enough welds
Like when i welded doorframes to the dryers at a
sawmill for 4 weeks straight ::) ::)
But like you say if you easier and cheaper to farm it
out the few times you need it
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I have done some amount of aluminum welding with about 4 or 5 different setups. My take on it, A spool gun is a good get you by as mentioned the wire can have a tendency to deform as it reaches the puddle and be a real pain, positioning and angle are a big player in this also if the welder is capable changing the pulse width can help tremendously this is something you just have to play with. Used or dirty material is the worst for a spool gun.
I haven't done much tig welding, have one sitting the corner same as new but I find for myself that I'm much more skilled using other methods and the "look" of a tig weld doesn't make me all super excited like it does most people, just glad I can do it and obtain satisfactory results.
The best I have used is the push pull style, current setup is a Miller 350P dedicated to a 30' Python gun. The gun/whip cost as much as the welder! But it works great not as picky about material and leaves a much nicer higher quality weld, its more akin to using a regular mig. The major advantage is the adjustability of the welder itself, its more than just amps and wire speed, the same spool gun will provide much better results used on such a welder as compared to simpler/cheaper welder.
Remember if aluminum has been in contact with oil to preheat to try and remove as much soaked in oil as you can, and NEVER weld aluminum with oil in direct contact with oil, for example an aluminum oil tank with out first draining and cleaning excess oil out, It can cause an explosion.
Snap-On welders are a Systematics, a cheaper but still good welder, I have been around about 4 of these. I used to hate and cuss them until one day we replaced the whip on one with I think Miller. It was an entirely different machine to say it made it better would be an understatement. Ended up replacing the whips on a few of the others and it made the same improvement. I recommend if anyone has a Snap-On/Systematics to replace the whip with a quality one from Miller or Bernard it will make it better then it was brand new!
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Will this be going on the 'vert, David?
Yeah, using the B/T intake with a Quick Fuel injection system. Heads, cam and lifters are on the way from Blair's, so it's time to get serious with the engine assembly.
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I used an aluminum spool gun to build my tunnel ram mod.. also to repair a dual 4 intake. I use it at work all the time.. once you get the hang of it its awesome :)
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff267/new_falcon_owner/351%20C%20tunnel%20ram%20fuel%20injection/009_1.jpg)
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Will this be going on the 'vert, David?
Yeah, using the B/T intake with a Quick Fuel injection system. Heads, cam and lifters are on the way from Blair's, so it's time to get serious with the engine assembly.
Gotcha. Good luck on the project.
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I used an aluminum spool gun to build my tunnel ram mod.. also to repair a dual 4 intake. I use it at work all the time.. once you get the hang of it its awesome :)
Rick, I think you are a much better aluminum welder than I am :)