FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Old Man 62 on November 19, 2015, 02:30:20 PM
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Just found you guys the other day, by chance, now I know where all the big brains have been hanging out. That being said please forgive me in advance, as I am still quite low on the learning curve. I'm going to look at a 390 for sale tomorrow and I'm a bit confused about the numbers. Photo shows a casting # of C1AE 6015 and a date code of OM12. Thank you in advance for you assistance, so glad to have found you all
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Welcome to the forum, and let me say some of us have big heads but it doesn't actually mean there are brains filling the space lol. I'll also say right off that I don't have any first hand experience with any C1AE blocks so I will just give you some general info, maybe someone else can fill in some details.
FE casting numbers are basically just a starting place for I.D.'ing a part, nothing is absolute and there is no complete definitive list anywhere. In many cases a single casting could be machined multiple ways. Casting numbers weren't always used and in some instances the same casting number was used on very different engines like the 390 & 427 and even totally different engine families. One other thing is you'll want to check if there is a complete casting number on the block. There should probably be a suffix letter after the C1AE-6015- "something". There were multiple C1AE blocks. Some examples are C1AE-6015-C, C1AE-6015-G, and C1AE-6015-V. But again, nothing is absolute, the suffix may have been left off when the block was cast. Unlike some brands, there are no "bad" FE blocks or heads ( in original form ), some just have features better suited to certain builds and some are of course more valuable.
You haven't said what you intend to do with this block, so again just some generalities here. the date code is December 12 1960, so it would most likely have been cast for a 1961 model year car. Ford was making both 352's & 390's in 1961. You'll have to check the bore and stroke to try and verify which. This is one example where the C1AE-6015-G casting block was used for both, so just the casting number isn't enough to go on. And to make things more muddy after 55 years even if it started as a 4.00" bore 352 someone may have rebuilt it and bored it to 4.05" 390 size already and it may not be suitable for a performance build without a sonic check. So one more thing is to try and look for clues if it has been rebuilt in the past.
Continuing with what you intend to use it for, early blocks like this one use the 2 bolt motor mount pattern so if you intend to use it in a '65 or later car or truck you may need to adapt the motor mounts. Also, most early cars used a generator ( alternators were a rare option ) and the early blocks often lack the later alternator mounting hole in the front of the block. Adapters can be made. There are other differences, none of which are insurmountable, just be aware.
One other thing of note, Ford had both Hydraulic and Solid lifter 390's in 1961 and many of the solid lifter blocks are not drilled in the lifter galley. The solid lifter blocks are a "score" but probably not a good choice if you intend to use a hydraulic lifter cam. If the price is right grab it and maybe trade it off for what you need.
Keep us posted with what you find and good luck.
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when I go to look at a so called 390, I take along a 1/4 inch wooden dowel rod about 10" long. take any spark plug out, put the rod through the plug hole until it rests on top of the piston & turn the engine until the piston is all the way down, mark the dowel pin even with the top of the plug hole. then turn the crank until you hit top dead center( piston all the way up) & mark it again. 3.5" = a 352 & 3.75 = a 390. you don't have to be very accurate as it is easy to see 1/4 inch difference. also don't be confused about the 352 number cast into the front of the block, evan 390s have that.
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Well, I appreciate the info gentleman, but, it doesn't matter now. The seller said he would wait until tomorrow morning for me to look at it before entertaining any other offers but then reneged and sold it this afternoon, I'm a bit PO but what can I do, probably a Chevy guy, is all I can figure. I'm actually more interested in a crank and rods, I just thought that if it was special in some way I would want to know.
I have 65 f250 with a 352. The oil pump driveshaft snapped so I pulled it and when I opened it up I discovered it was already .040 over. I was thinking I'd just as soon turn it into a 390. It was a daily driver and I loved driving it and I live in LA. Forty miles each way, most of it on the 405. No power brakes or steering, no AC, didn't matter this truck brought me joy. It came with a dump setup for the bed and after taking the bed off to remove all that hardware I took it for a spin with no bed and that was all she wrote!! Never put it back on! Threw a set of headers on and really had some fun only 208 hp but it moves well without that weight.
I now have a 4v intake and I'd like to throw a mild cam in as well. Not towing, not hauling, just driving my big ugly truck/coupe. So now I'm on the hunt for a crank and rods and working with a tight budget. Anyway, now you have a little idea of where I'm at. Just gotta keep looking and learning.
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I love 65 and 66 Ford pickups. Got any pictures of yours?
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Well, I appreciate the info gentleman, but, it doesn't matter now. The seller said he would wait until tomorrow morning for me to look at it before entertaining any other offers but then reneged and sold it this afternoon, I'm a bit PO but what can I do, probably a Chevy guy, is all I can figure. I'm actually more interested in a crank and rods, I just thought that if it was special in some way I would want to know.
I have 65 f250 with a 352. The oil pump driveshaft snapped so I pulled it and when I opened it up I discovered it was already .040 over. I was thinking I'd just as soon turn it into a 390. It was a daily driver and I loved driving it and I live in LA. Forty miles each way, most of it on the 405. No power brakes or steering, no AC, didn't matter this truck brought me joy. It came with a dump setup for the bed and after taking the bed off to remove all that hardware I took it for a spin with no bed and that was all she wrote!! Never put it back on! Threw a set of headers on and really had some fun only 208 hp but it moves well without that weight.
I now have a 4v intake and I'd like to throw a mild cam in as well. Not towing, not hauling, just driving my big ugly truck/coupe. So now I'm on the hunt for a crank and rods and working with a tight budget. Anyway, now you have a little idea of where I'm at. Just gotta keep looking and learning.
You can always just bore your 352 [@.040"over] another .010" and make it a std. bore 360 [4.05"] reuse your rods and crank or find a set of 390 rods as they are a different length and the 390 crank. I would have no problem with using that block at .050" over or even more with a sonic check. Replacement/rebuilder cast pistons are available for just about any combo you want to build. Another thought is if the bores are good [no taper] in your .040" over block just do a simple re-ring/hone and new bearings. That is very doable on a tight budget and will give you several more years of happy motoring.
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Hello Old Man 62, if you don't find what your looking for over in the LA basin and don't mind a trip to Riverside county message me I think I have some of the parts you need.
Jason
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(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/white65ford/65%20Fleet%20Bed/678A0454.jpg) (http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/white65ford/media/65%20Fleet%20Bed/678A0454.jpg.html)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/white65ford/65%20Fleet%20Bed/678A1384.jpg) (http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/white65ford/media/65%20Fleet%20Bed/678A1384.jpg.html)