FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => FE Engine Dyno Results => Topic started by: jayb on September 29, 2015, 08:30:41 PM
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Performance Summary:
Cubic Inches: 585 Dyno brand: SuperFlow 901
Power Adder: None Where dynoed: Jay's garage
Peak Horsepower: 992 @ 6600
Peak Torque: 830 @ 5100
Horsepower and Torque Curves:
Note: black curves are for this engine; red curves are for the previous iteration in 2014.
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Drag Week 2015/bestpull.jpg)
Engine Specifications:
Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes: Shelby aluminum block, offset bored to 4.700" bore spacing, 4.500" finished bore size
Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size: Crower billet crank, 4.600" stroke, 2.200" rod journals
Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts: Crower billet rods, 6.700" center to center, 0.927" pin
Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR: CP custom pistons, 13.4:1 compression ratio
Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size: Federal Mogul 125M main bearings, Clevite rod bearings
Piston rings brand, size, other notes: Total Seal conventional rings, .043" steel top ring, .043" Napier second ring, 3mm 13 pound oil ring
Oil Pump, pickup, and drive: Stock pump not used, Peterson 6 stage dry sump system
Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter: Custom aluminum oil pan to work with dry sump, Moroso louvered windage tray
Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050"): Comp Cams roller cams, single pattern, 288@ .050", 0.739 lift, 114 LSA
Lifters brand, type: NA
Timing chain and timing cover: Pond timing cover, Munro timing gear and chain set
Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information: Aluminum SOHC heads, raised ports, hemispherical chamber, 120cc
Cylinder head flow in cfm at inches of lift (28" H2O pressure drop):
Intake Exhaust
.100 83 .100 58
.200 176 .200 134
.300 280 .300 210
.400 361 .400 264
.500 412 .500 306
.600 434 .600 320
.700 443 .700 334
.800 453 .800 344
Flow bench used, location: SuperFlow SF-600 bench, R&R Performance
Intake valve brand, head size, stem size: Manley custom intake valves, 2.300" head diameter, 11/32 stem
Exhaust valve brand, head size, stem size: Manley custom exhaust valves, 1.900" head diameter, 11/32 stem
Valve springs brand, part number, specs: Comp springs, 26115, 255 on the seat, 630 over the nose
Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs: Comp titanium retainers, Manley locks
Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio: T&D adjustable rockers for SOHC
Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material: Precision Oil Pumps steel SOHC rocker shafts
Pushrods brand, type, length: NA
Valve covers, brand, type: Aftermarket SOHC aluminum valve covers
Distributor brand, advance curve information: NA
Harmonic balancer brand: ATI
Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric): CVR electric pump with FE Power adapters
Intake manifold brand, material, porting information: Custom sheet metal intake
Carburetor(s) brand, type: NA
Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type: Custom built step headers, 2" to 2-1/8" to 2-1/4" primaries, merge collectors to 3-1/2" outlet
EFI system: Megasquirt MS3X controller, Ford Racing 80# injectors, Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, DIY Autotune individual coil packs
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"Pushrods brand, type, length: NA"...Hard to find for these engines. :o.Impressive how well this ran all week.
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Impressive Jay Congrats!! If you used carbs how much loss do you think you would have
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I don't think I'd lose too much horsepower, in fact there are some folks out there who would argue that you would pick up power with the carbs, especially if you used those split Dominators. But drivability with the carbs would really suck. Since this engine spends a lot of time on the street, EFI was the way to go.
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You could break 1000 HP if you just ran a different fuel. Some gas stations around the country sell 101.
So... when will we see you putting a blower on a SOHC? That kinda is the inevitable direction. Instead of going for offset bores in order to increase the displacement, you could just plunk a 8-71 on it and open up a whole new chapter.
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I have a twin turbo SOHC in the works, but its probably a year or so off yet. One issue is that I don't want to put the funny car style cage in any of my cars. I like being able to get in and out of the cars without crawling through a roll cage; they are street cars, after all. I can run pretty close to the limit of my cage (8.50) with the naturally aspirated engine, and so going with the blower in that car would just make me NHRA-illegal.
I plan to put the turbo engine in my Galaxie, and probably run right on 8.50 with that car as well. It could run a lot faster, but I want to keep my bench seat, column shift, full size Ford the way it is with the normal cage and removable side bars. It will never win at Drag Week (all of the power adder classes are running faster than 8.50), but it will still be pretty cool...
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Wow, a twin turbo! Cool!
But, if I may be so bold, and considering it's in your Galaxie, why not say a 8-71 Jimmy blower on top w/ a cool Hilborn/Enderle hat (converted to EFI)?
Sure, the twin turbo is cool yet the bulk of it is hidden under the hood, ideal for the Shelby with the strut front end and you could likely put back on the stock appearing and rather unique hood.
The Galaxie would look mighty cool with a polished blower, eh? See 385 series '64 below......
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Zs1X12s9u0
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I tend to agree, Bob, the SOHC deserves a blower. But I already bought the turbos, and I like the idea of everything hiding under the hood. Actually, in the car I'm going to put the turbos and air to water intercoolers in the trunk, to avoid all that piping that you normally see in a turbo installation. There's just going to be one tube coming through the firewall and into the back of the intake manifold, so that nothing will be present to spoil the looks of the SOHC.
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Hey, we're all going to love it no matter!
Ah, but someday......blower heaven,here we come! LOL
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Jay That Will be an instalation similar to a
Thunderbolt fighter
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Are you going to cut up one of the manifolds you have now that seems to be hiding shop light from the shelves or start anew? :)
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Jay That Will be an instalation similar to a
Thunderbolt fighter
Exactly, Heo, same idea. At Drag Week in 2006 there was a guy with a late model Crown Victoria that had two turbos parked under the car in the back. A really, really cool installation, and I'm going to try to do the same basic thing.
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Are you going to cut up one of the manifolds you have now that seems to be hiding shop light from the shelves or start anew? :)
Steve, don't you recognize priceless works of art when you see them? Those manifolds are eclectic montages of dinged up aluminum tube, welding slag, JB Weld, and RTV; how could I ever cut one up? ;D
I'll probably start new, mostly because I need to build the manifold to fit under a factory teardrop hood, and to position the inlet facing the rear and down, to take the big 4" tube bringing the boost out of the firewall...
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As long as you're happy with an increase in turbo lag.
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There was Someone in Sweden with
A smal Opel with some BrandX Engine
That had same kind of instalation
You saw the turbos from behind
I saw it in a magazine some years ago
The owner Said it Worked realy god
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I saw that the newer corvettes have a twin turbo backage that runs off of exhaust gasses toward the tail pipes. Both turbos tuck up under the rear bumper and suck cool air from behind the car. Pretty neat to see this project come to life. Looking forward to it!
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I recall you once mentioning it was difficult to shift the Galaxie with the column shifter. I'd thought about it with no "stop's" and having your right arm un-supported trying to only move the shift lever on click...You must have upgraded the factory column shifter so it does not resemble pulling on a slot-machine lever?
I was thinking about your intention to install the Turbo's and intercooler in the Gal's trunk..... Like to throw out a NASA Tech Brief's advertiser had stainless tubing discharging liquid nitrogen -320F and a bare hand holding the tubing. They utilized tube inside tube with a vacuum separating the tubes. The vacuum isolates the temp from the outer shell because vacuum does not transfer temp. Daydreaming, if you were to use a high dollar alloy for the inside tube (it's not able to dissipate heat so the inside tubing will get and stay HOT) With that same point you'd be able to keep exhaust gasses hot which I'd presume should keep turbo lag down from the exhaust point of view.
I scored some magnificent 3" 180-degree fabricated 9" OD stainless bends that were in my customer's dairy products plant's heat exchangers. They used a cluster of 3/4" tubes within the 10' straight 3" tubes....to I presume do something with the pasteurization process. Perhaps entertain using your tubing from the trunk to the motor as an integral part of or section of your inter-cooler..????.....I have a feeling the added distance to the passenger seat area vs the trunk will have effects on lag.
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I think that extra tubing would add too much weight to a car that's too heavy already. Ceramic coating the complete exhaust is my plan. Also, I don't really care about turbo lag. Driving around town I'll have a 500" SOHC to get me from stoplight to stoplight; no boost needed. In fact, if I had quick boost on the street I'd go from 600-700 HP naturally aspirated to 1500 HP and just blow away the tires. This engine won't need (or want) boost on the street, so turbo lag is not a concern.
At the track, I'll build boost at the line after lighting the pre-stage light by revving against the trans brake, then bump into the stage light with a bump box. That way when the tree comes down and the last yellow flashes I can leave with full boost.
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Do you have any more beans you can spill on the turbo setup? I'm wondering sizes that you picked out and such. Seems like you can get carried away trying to pick just the right turbo for your application.