FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: Stangman on September 24, 2015, 11:54:43 PM
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Hey guys started the 482 today started right up and got it to 2300 rpm it was running for about ten minutes at 195 and then it started to creep up after another two minutes it was about 215-220 lowered idle a smidge and had my buddy shut it off. Now I am running straight water during breakin and 180 thermostat aluminum edelbrock water pump CVF 5.4 inch w/p pulleys jegs electric fans 11 inch Jegs with shroud. I haven't timed it or done any carb adjustments so maybe that's why it's running a little warm. I just though with the new water pump pulley and lower compression and a little smaller cam it would have been better. I took the oil filter apart and I don't see anything bad a couple of speckles but all in all clean. What do ya think 12 minutes ain't enough of a break in for solid cam any advice will be welcome
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I would break it in longer. Maybe put a big fan in front of it to cool it down and crank the timing up after it fires. With no load on it, it won't ping, even as high as 30 or 40 at 2000-2500
FWIW, it takes a lot of fan to cool an FE in a Mustang with shock towers. Keep an eye on those fans, they may end up not being enough even after it's broken in.
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Thanks Ross gonna get the 16 inch seal fan with the new harness should be good fingers crossed
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We like to run our engines for a good 30-45 mins.
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I believe ya but at 2500 rpm it sound like its screaming will be finishing it up saturday morning unless I have a honey do list that I dont know about
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It's not running that rpm the whole time. A good 20 mins at 2000ish rpm.
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Then you bring it to idle or what I have abot 12 minutes now
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In the old days, we didn't do the same cam run in we do now. But we also didn't have as much spring pressure and ramps were slower.
Remember what the run in is doing though, the cam is spinning, the lifters are spinning because they are slightly offset to the lobes. Meanwhile the crank is throwing a ton of oil at those surfaces, taking away heat and allowing them to burnish (metal on metal polishing with oil and heat) together.
It seems like it's loud and revving high, but 2500 is really nothing if you can keep it cool. There is no load, the load isn't coming off and on, and the oil is flowing well, so the engine won't mind a bit.
My recommendation is consider it starting over. Make sure oil and water is topped off, fire it, and just stand there watching the gauges and looking underneath for leaks. Get it up to 2000-2500 using the idle screw with the new fan, and maybe a big old house fan in front. Once it's fired, you can look at the timing with a light, or just advance it a little more, no load it'll handle a ton of advance. It'll get boring after a while, and it should. After 20 minutes, idle it back down with the idle screw, set the timing with a light, and shut it down.
It may be a little hot, and may even want to run on, but if it didn't overheat, don't judge it yet, it's a fresh motor, every piece has more friction than it will after break in. Get it out and see what it runs like and start fine tuning
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Ok guys I stuck a fan in front of the radiator and varied rpm from 2000-2500 for 20 minutes didn't go over approx 205 did have alittlr oil leak coming from the back of motor didn't see it the first 12 minute run I did have a valve cover leak tightened it up got a little oil on my new ceramic coated hookers. But the good news is after 20 minutes dropped it down to 1000 rpm and idled nice and with no noises. 20 psi oil pressure would have liked to see 25. So I guess drop the break in oil and what do you think I should be putting inr there as far as viscosity, still have to put middle springs in and do some carb adjustments
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Sounds like a plan!
Oil makes a big difference in pressure, if you want 25, just pick a different weight or brand, you'll get it!
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What are you running do you have a solid cam, I will need something with some zinc in it. I always ran castrol 20/50 but I get a feelin that's not compatible with today's metals or should I say cams and in my case a solid cam
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Brad Penn oil is about all we use for flat tappet cams. Excellent zinc and phosphorus content. I run 10W30 in mine with a Melling high volume pump, and about 20-25psi at hot idle (850rpm).
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Thanks Nightmist
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If you don't want to have to order your oil on-line and wait for days, Shell Rotella 15w-40 is a very good oil for the older engines in my opinion. It's designed for diesels but there's no law against running it in gas engines. Leastwise not yet.
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Thanks CJ I actually stock that oil But maybe I should find out what my clearances are to pick a viscosity or the are probably a standard clearance and a 15-45 or a 10-40 is fine but I do maybe want a smidge thicker for oil pressure at idle or I'm not making sense
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Do you mind posting your clearance specs if you know them?
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I run solid flat tappets in both toys, the Mustang is a little looser clearance and gets Valvoline VR1 20w50 and the truck runs on Rotella 15w40.
489 is 9 years old and has about 20 psi at idle and shoots right up immediately, the truck has a stock gauge and is is either on the high end or right in the middle. Who knows what the pressure is, but it looks good LOL
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I will find out and let ya know tommorrow thanks guys
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I havent found out about the clearances yet guys so until I do thanks for all the advise