FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: jholmes217 on September 07, 2015, 12:53:28 PM
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I got a really good deal on an MSD 6AL box and MSD 8694 dizzy at an estate sale. I've never run an MSD box before, so I have some questions for those that have, but first, some details on my car and engine that may effect some answers;
Car
- Car is a 1969 Q code 428 Mach 1
- Rear gear is 3:50 traction lock
- Close ratio Toploader 4 speed
Engine
- .060 bored C6ME-A "A scratch" block
- stock crank
- dished pistons
- stock iron 428 Cobra Jet heads with stock size valves and POPs rocker arms, spacers, and end stands
- Oregon Cams version of a Comp 280H Magnum cam grind #308
- Blue Thunder intake with Cobra Jet ports
- 750 CFM vacuum secondary Summit Racing carb
- Hooker Super Comp headers
Here are my questions;
- What spark plugs should I use, and what gap? I currently have new Autolite 46, but could return them for something else if they aren't a good match.
- I currently have a Mallory Unilite electronic dizzy and total timing is set at 38. Will this stay about the same with the MSD system?
- My car is a factory tach car. Will I need a tach adapter, and if so, do you have one you recommend?
- The Mallory is also run using a ballast resistor. Will I need to remove this?
Thanks in advance for you input!
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If the plugs worked fine for you before, they should work fine with the MSD unit. The 46 is a couple steps hotter than the standard 45s, which I've always found to work great on mild street engines, but if the 46's worked for you, use them.
MSD distributors come from the factory with very conservative timing curves and totals, but since you bought yours at an estate you'll need to look at the springs and bushing in it to determine how its set up to advance. Just go to MSDs web sight or do a Google search and check their charts. The bushing you need to control total timing will be determined by the initial that you're running. Add your initial to the correct bushing to get your total. For instance, if you have 14* initial, you'll want the silver bushing that adds a max of 25* to total 39* (and maybe back off your initial by 1* if needed). If you're running 16* initial, a blue bushing will give you about 22* for a total of 38*
Typically, you'll want the timing to be "all in" by 2800-3000 rpms, so that would call for the blue springs if using the blue bushing (16* initial), or one "light" silver spring and one blue spring if using the silver bushing (14* initial). These are just examples but should be close to what you'll need. The beauty of the MSD is you can play with them so easily and see what works best.
I THINK you need the tach adapter for a factory tach, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Make sure you check it out for sure because I think it will burn out your tach if you don't.
Yes, you'll need to remove the resistor. MSD's don't require them.
Here's a shot of MSD's spring/bushing chart.
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Used to be MSD #8920 Tach Adapter. I bought one back in 1983 for my '67 Mustang factory tach. Works good. They used to list it for a "current triggered" tach. If the '69 is the same as a '67, the 8920 should be right for you. Last time I looked, they still use that number.
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In regards to the tach, Ford factory tachs function different, they are a current triggered tach, than most aftermarket tachs and will require a tach adapter. Now...my experience...30 years ago when I raced my '68 Torino with factory tach and MSD 6T I tried both MSD tach adapters and could not get either to work. My professional mechanic friend BradFord ( who has assisted Jay many times ) spent many days trying unsuccessfully to get a MSD and tach adapter to play together on a friends Boss 302 with factory tach. Yet I've read multiple times on forums people successfully getting the tach adapters to work on their Fords. I just point it out in case you encounter issues. I just disconnected the factory tach on my Shelby and run a shift light.
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If the plugs worked fine for you before, they should work fine with the MSD unit. The 46 is a couple steps hotter than the standard 45s, which I've always found to work great on mild street engines, but if the 46's worked for you, use them.
MSD distributors come from the factory with very conservative timing curves and totals, but since you bought yours at an estate you'll need to look at the springs and bushing in it to determine how its set up to advance. Just go to MSDs web sight or do a Google search and check their charts. The bushing you need to control total timing will be determined by the initial that you're running. Add your initial to the correct bushing to get your total. For instance, if you have 14* initial, you'll want the silver bushing that adds a max of 25* to total 39* (and maybe back off your initial by 1* if needed). If you're running 16* initial, a blue bushing will give you about 22* for a total of 38*
Plugs in it now are NGK V Power Copper, but they probably need changed.
Typically, you'll want the timing to be "all in" by 2800-3000 rpms, so that would call for the blue springs if using the blue bushing (16* initial), or one "light" silver spring and one blue spring if using the silver bushing (14* initial). These are just examples but should be close to what you'll need. The beauty of the MSD is you can play with them so easily and see what works best.
I THINK you need the tach adapter for a factory tach, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Make sure you check it out for sure because I think it will burn out your tach if you don't.
Yes, you'll need to remove the resistor. MSD's don't require them.
Here's a shot of MSD's spring/bushing chart.
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With C1AE-A and C4AE-G iron heads and 6AL box/blue HVC coil... Autolite 124 spark plugs worked great for me on pump premium. I gapped them at .035. I've never ran a ballast resistor either with any MSD ignition.
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If the plugs worked fine for you before, they should work fine with the MSD unit. The 46 is a couple steps hotter than the standard 45s, which I've always found to work great on mild street engines, but if the 46's worked for you, use them.
MSD distributors come from the factory with very conservative timing curves and totals, but since you bought yours at an estate you'll need to look at the springs and bushing in it to determine how its set up to advance. Just go to MSDs web sight or do a Google search and check their charts. The bushing you need to control total timing will be determined by the initial that you're running. Add your initial to the correct bushing to get your total. For instance, if you have 14* initial, you'll want the silver bushing that adds a max of 25* to total 39* (and maybe back off your initial by 1* if needed). If you're running 16* initial, a blue bushing will give you about 22* for a total of 38*
Plugs in it now are NGK V Power Copper, but they probably need changed.
Typically, you'll want the timing to be "all in" by 2800-3000 rpms, so that would call for the blue springs if using the blue bushing (16* initial), or one "light" silver spring and one blue spring if using the silver bushing (14* initial). These are just examples but should be close to what you'll need. The beauty of the MSD is you can play with them so easily and see what works best.
I THINK you need the tach adapter for a factory tach, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Make sure you check it out for sure because I think it will burn out your tach if you don't.
Yes, you'll need to remove the resistor. MSD's don't require them.
Here's a shot of MSD's spring/bushing chart.
NGK V Power Copper are the plugs currently in it, but they need changed.
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Got an MSD spring and bushing kit last week. Springs in the MSD 8694 dizzy are the heavy silver, and the bushing looks brown,so I think it is actually a faded/worn red. Doesn't sound like that is what I would want for a 428 CJ 1969 Mustang. I was thinking for a lighter car like mine, the light silver springs and the red bushing would be the best to start with. That would put me "all in" at about 2500 RPM. Does this sound right?
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don't use that ballast resistor, those were in the car strictly for the the points style ignition. if I remember right msd even says that in their install directions
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One of the first things I like to do is ditch the resistor wire. I don't believe it takes much life out of the points if you are running points yet. I ran a 12awg wire from the back of the ignition switch to the coil, replacing the old pink resistor wire. Used it for a short time with the dual point setup and currently with my Pertronix setup, no problems. As stated, you must have a full 12v source to the electronic ignition.