FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: cjshaker on August 27, 2015, 08:02:17 PM
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I'm mostly posting these for BB, but others may find it interesting too. This was the filter I mentioned in the "Lost oil pressure" thread.
Quick re-hash of the story. A van lost oil pressure (an E350 with a 5.4). After the 2nd time starting to confirm no oil pressure, it suddenly came back after the 4th start. It was only started for a few seconds each time. I pulled the cheapo Fram filter off and this is what I found....
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG1991.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG1991.jpg.html)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG1990.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG1990.jpg.html)
I could pick pieces of filter media out from the center port, just sitting on top. This is the port that feeds the engine. I knew then that it had sent who knows how much of this garbage into the engine. Well, the engine lasted about another 6 months before it started knocking like hell and was trashed.
Today I finally cut the filter open. I just took a hacksaw and carefully cut around the outside since I wasn't too concerned about getting metal particles in the filter. I already knew what had happened, but wanted to see the insides, and to post this for BB to see. It was obvious that the filter had plugged (I don't know why, the oil and filter only had a few hundred miles on it) and had then built enough pressure to collapse the internals, thereby tearing apart the filter media and sending it down the oil path. This is what it looked like inside....
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG1993.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG1993.jpg.html)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG1995.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG1995.jpg.html)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG1994.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG1994.jpg.html)
With the anti-drainback flapper removed, exposing the top of the filter itself....
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG1996.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/IMAG1996.jpg.html)
Bottom line is....don't EVER use a Fram filter. Or any other cheap filter for that matter. The old adage "you get what you pay for" applies in spades here. I never use Fram, Quaker State (they had issues with the same thing some years back) or any cheapo "house brand" filter. If you go to a Quickie Mart oil change type of operation, this is what you're going to get. Buyer beware! As car guys, I'm sure we all know better than to trust those places, but if you think you can save a few bucks, think again.
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How bout the Motorcraft FL-1A? I've used it for years, and it happens to be cheap (<$5). Haven't heard anyone mention whether they've had good or bad experiences with it. For me it has worked fine.
Thanks,
Bruce
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I've never had an issue with the FL-1A. I nearly always use them on my mild street engines. For builds using an HV or HP pump, I usually used the FL-1AHP version. Recently I've switched to the Canton replaceable cartridge on my Mach 1. I like the no bypass feature and easily accessed filter media. I don't think you can go wrong with the FL-1A or Wix on a street car. And BTW, the Napa Gold and Platinum filters are just rebranded Wix.
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ford had a bulletin out on not using aftermarket filters in 5.4's. seems like filter media gets stuck in the small oil passages in the timing chain tensioner circuit causing tapping noise & voiding warranty.
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Doug, thanks for those pictures. Its hard to believe that a filter could collapse in on itself like that. I think you are correct that it must have been plugged, and the pressure from the pump ended up collapsing it. But most filters have a bypass that allows oil to go around a plugged filter element (for those folks who don't bother to change their oil and filter very often). I assume that the Fram PH8A filter has that bypass? I wonder if it was stuck or something...
By the way, I agree 100% that the Fram PH8A filters are junk, but their HP1 filter isn't that bad. I've used them in a pinch with no bad results. I always prefer to use Mobil 1 filters, but keep a couple of the HP1 filters around in case I inadvertently run out of the Mobil 1 units.
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That's pretty disturbing....I am not a Fram filter guy either.I use Motorcraft filters.
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Jay, to be honest, I don't see any type of bypass on it. There is a raised sheetmetal "plug" that fits under the filter media. I don't see any purpose for it other than to keep the media against the top of the housing. The only way I could see it working as a bypass is if it collapsed and pushed down, allowing the oil to pass through the top. But I can't see that actually working that way. I should have shown that part of the filter also.
I can't get any more pictures now because I'm at the NMCA Finals in Norwalk for the weekend. Watching Don Fotti and his '68 CJ car, there aren't many FEs here, sadly. And I agree, their HP1 filter is not a bad filter. I should have been clearer when saying that about Fram's.
Having known what happened to the media, if this had been one of my engines, I would have pulled it and torn it down. But this was a campus owned vehicle and I didn't have that option...nor would I have wanted to if I did :) I use Napa Gold filters at work, but someone took this one to a local garage without my knowledge.
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Hey Doug, that looks like the "Tough Guard" filter, is that correct? I wonder why it has no bypass. ??? Did it use a coil spring and seat or leaf spring style in bottom? What is also surprising to me is that it appears to be one of the more expensive Fram filters, but yet it doesn't have a silicone anti-drainback valve. You couldn't pay me enough to use a Fram filter. JMO
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Jared, honestly I don't know exactly which filter it is. I'm not sure if it says on the filter and I didn't look to see. It does not have a spring in the bottom. You can actually see the bottom piece in a couple of the pictures above. It's just a stamped metal piece that appears it's only function is to hold the filter media against the top of the housing. I don't see any way that it could act as a bypass, but I'll look at it more closely when I get back.
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Looking back at the one pic, I see the leaf spring style end but no bypass in it. It looks like it is just a flat disc in the center of the spring. Unless it looks like this on the bottom side of the spring...
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/jaredaebly/Mobile%20Uploads/vendor.2013.fram_.air-filter.cutaway_zpsfulg4d6y.jpeg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/jaredaebly/media/Mobile%20Uploads/vendor.2013.fram_.air-filter.cutaway_zpsfulg4d6y.jpeg.html)
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Wow, this has been an eye opener for me. Never heard of these Fram problems or the risk of running Fram's PH8A. I've been driving my Galaxie a ton and the 445's a blast on the street. Good to know I have a ticking time bomb for a filter. Thanks for sharing- Len
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Lenz, I have motorcraft FL1-As on both of my 427s, I buy them at wally world for $3-4. I keep a couple around at all times. No ribfest at NE this yr, But the wine fest is a go! Hopefully better parking!
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Jared, no it does NOT have that spring assembly. It is just a stamped metal piece. Interesting. It's hard to believe they don't put one in all their street filters. But even if they had, that means the filter would have gone into bypass and put unfiltered oil through the engine for another 4500 miles before it got changed again! :o Seems to me that the results could just as well have been the same.
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It's just like everything else these days. hokey manufacturing relying on an old name that had a very good reputation. I can remember 50 years ago (depressing,.... the 50 years, not the fact that I can remember) when fram was king. It was sold & bought a bunch of times getting shittier every time.
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Never fails to amaze me how a $5 item can easily crap out a larger piece of equipment worth many times more. I've been using the K&N oil filters hoping at the very least the extra coin gives some better build quality.
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To tell the truth I've never been able to figure out how the recommended FE insurance HEAVY DUTY OIL PUMP C9ZZ-6600-A according to the Ford Muscle Parts booklet (p48) " flows 22GPM under 70-80psi at 4,000rpm" I can tell you no one is ever going get 22GPM of oil through a small spin on like without the differential pressuring going to the moon and/or major bypass or it's just a mesh cloth/strainer.
The other thing IF you were pumping 22GPM through an FE's lube system the oil passages are going to resist the flow and will be doing a hell of a juggling act keeping approx. 2Gal at most of oil in circulation is hard to comprehend.
You did just hit me in the head with something I'd never thought of while trying to comprehend "How a center core could implode like that?". Normally you have oil both upstream and downstream of the filter paper/center tube - element except after installing a new filter first start. A slug of oil blasting into the filter and chasing out air very likely could present a situation where the upstream/downstream - delta-P pressure across the guts could get very high. I can only guess at that time it could spike high enough to crush the internals. IF ones doing an oil change w/o pre-filling the filter I believe they could manage to get a "slug" of oil hitting the internals with nothing but air on the opposite side of the filter element. You get the Bozo's that start a motor WOT and with a dry/unfilled oil filter that could make matters even worse.
More then ever, seriously you should contact Fram and get to someone with knowledge and see if they can take a look at what happened. Those pics show pretty well. Like going to Mc Donalds and having them screw up a burger - to get a filter like that for a filter company is an off the charts disaster.
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I Rebuil 2 Mercedes Diesels and realy did a
full job on both. Linehoned rebuilt the rods
index grinded cranks new oil pumps that i
blueprinted and so on. They were real nice
runing diesels one owner used Mercedes
oil filter the other used cheap filters from
a lowprice chain.
The low price filtered engine ended up with
low oilpressure after about 50 000 miles
with wornout bearings
The Mercedes filtered one still runs with full
oil pressure
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LOL " I've been using the K&N oil filters hoping the extra coin "
There was a company called Champion Brands that offered the trade private label oil filters at $1.00 each. I'd bet big-time K&N does not make their oil filters
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CJSHAKER call Product Evaluation @ Fram at 888 889 8374
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I've been using Purolater PureONE oil filters on daily driver cars for the last several years and by observation of oil color getting 1 or 2 thousand miles more between oil changes over a standard filter. They are probably more restrictive so don't know how it would work on a high performance engine.
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Interesting pictures Doug thanks for sharing.
Has the idea that what ever it was that clogged the filter in the first place, was failing, and the crushed filter was simply a symptom?
I would submit that a oil filter in a common modern designed engine, being well ventilated(PCV) with low(modern) blow by, would have a fairly easy job. Some modern cars go two or 3 oil changes before changing the filter(per the manufacturer), and have a much smaller filter than a PH8A.
I agree that FRAM isn't the best filter. But I think its a symptom of failure, not the cause. If you disagree, what would a better designed filter done in this case to save the engine?
In aviation we have many filters and they all have a bypass. The theory being that dirty oil is better than no oil, and used to get you to the ground only, no to continue service. I have yet to see a filter bypass tripped when the component didn't require replacement based on inspection and oil samples. I would imagine that if a sample was taken on this engine it would have shown the failure was imminent. Now would it have gone 7 or 8 months with a better filter in complete bypass? Possibly, but the writing is on the wall once you have so much debris that it clogs a large filter like a PH8A.
Now, filter surface area, media quality, and micron filtering are other reasons to buy a better than FRAM filter, and there are plenty of them out there.
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And sometimes even a good one can be bad.
Had a persistent oil pressure needle swing at idle (+/- about 12 psi) that pulsed in my all OEM '88 5.0 Fox Mustang FB. This thread got me to thinking that it pulsed just like a bypass quickly opening and closing. Today I merely pulled the filter (always Motorcraft FL-1A) replaced it with same and voila'. No more pulsing and a steady needle. I did cut the old filter up but zero metal, debris, etc.
Frankly, I've never had a FL-1A issue but didn't note that soon after the last oil change (do all myself) the gauge acted up. I'll watch my other Fords as well and if they exhibit an fluctuating needle.....I'll know what to replace pronto the next time!
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Thats why I use Wix, Motorcraft and some Baldwin, Amsoil filters.... Only the best in my book to use....
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Has the idea that what ever it was that clogged the filter in the first place, was failing, and the crushed filter was simply a symptom?
I agree that FRAM isn't the best filter. But I think its a symptom of failure, not the cause. If you disagree, what would a better designed filter done in this case to save the engine?
There was nothing in the filter to clog it. And there's nothing in an engine that I'm aware of that can liquify and congeal in a filter to cause it to clog. I have heard of cheap filter media that would cause it though. Either through some sort of additive on the media that congealed or the media itself turning to mush.
And if the filter had had a bypass, the oil would have gotten to the engine. It wouldn't have been good for the engine, but at least it would have survived. I totally blame the filter on this failure.
And Wes, I use Napa/Wix at work and have never had an issue after countless filter changes. I didn't do this oil change.