FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: Landlubberatsea on August 08, 2015, 04:00:28 PM
-
Hi all, thought it would be a good idea to start my upcoming 445 build with presenting my plans and asking some questions in this forum.
First of all, I know that topics are better served in small portions on the forum so my apologies on beforehand for doing this………
As I mentioned in my thread about oil pressure I’m planning to build (or have it built may be more correct) a 445, but before ordering parts I would really appreciate some input from the great knowledge bank of this forum.
My initial plan was to have the engine built by Survival and I received a suggestion and quote from Mr. Rabotnick which was really tempting. (Sorry for wasting your time, I will order the 445 kit from you though)
Unfortunately, while I was being a coward and having problems with coming to a decision, the Swedish Krona lost so much in value against the US Dollar that this no longer is an option for me. With the import fees and transport etc it would just be too expensive. So now to plan B.
The engine will be placed in a 68 Torino GT with C6 tranny and 3.25 rear end and what I’m looking for is drivability and maximum vehicle utility during the short season over here.
It will be used in the summertime and mostly to get me around the closest area, 10 miles radius maybe, on roads with speed limits from 30-50 mph and with the occasional trip on the highway to the closest towns.
I would like to be able to use it for the odd longer trip with the family though. Maybe a 1000 mile roundtrip once per season or so (otherwise the missus will never understand why I spend so much money of ours on an old car ::))
It will probably not see the track, at least not in its first version. But it is always funny to do some moderate (yeah right) revving when pulling off and since overtaking is a risk situation we should always try to minimize the time spent in the opposite lane, right ;)
So in big pictures, the budget orientated plan now is as follows.
Original 68 block, with minor oil mods and drilled, honed, parallel decked etc.
Stroker kit from Survival with I beams.
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and heads from the box (plan on adding restrictor though)
Hydraulic roller cam and lifters (would be worried to death about the break in process on a solid)
Original rockers, initially at least - for budget reasons, but with POP end stands and DSC shafts (by the way are the rocker spacers sold by DSC money well spent?) The valve train is based on Wade “65er”s engine, would be interesting to hear if it has worked ok.
750 vac sec carburetor
MSD ignition and distributor (which I have already).
FPA Headers (on order)
And now time for some questions.
1. Is my plan reasonable or should I go back to the drawing table and start all over again?
2. What kind of pistons and compression should I go for in the Stroker Kit?
3. Suggestions on cam, 1500 – 5500 rpm or so,
4. Is mechanical fuel pump ok and if so, which one do you recommend? Do I need a return line for fuel?
5. What converter should I match the engine with? (I plan to have enough money next winter to do a gearvendor job and some steeper gear in the back, maybe 3.70-3.89)
6. Any other must dos/haves?
Hopefully, if get it as I want it, this can be an engine which I can continue to improve over the years to come but without having to touch the bottom. I'm thinking porting heads and intake, valve job, roller rockers, bigger carb etc.
Once again sorry for the word-diarrhea but I felt I had to try to show the whole picture from the beginning to make it easier to come with suggestions.
Looking forward to hearing from you / Jan
-
Plan B sounds great.
The compression in the 10 to 1 range.
Cam, about 235* @.050 with a 600ish lift will give you some pep with a nice strong idle. Or bigger. ;)
A mechanical fuel pump is fine. 3/8" fuel line from the tank pickup to the carb.
For the converter, a 10" with a modest stall in the 2500 rpm range will work
great for your intended usage.
Use a bigger oil pan. Something that hold about 8 quarts. A T or deep sump pan. Which ever one you like the best.
They both work great.
Nice car.
Good luck.
-
Nice looking car, Jan. On the fuel pump, what kind of fuel do you have there? Here in the US a lot of us have to deal with 10% ethanol in the fuel, and fairly low octane levels. I have found an electric fuel pump with a return style fuel system is the best way to go with this fuel, because the boiling point of the fuel is really low. But I think in Europe the fuel is higher octane, and doesn't contain ethanol; is that correct? If so, I wonder if the boiling point of the fuel is higher, and then a mechanical fuel pump setup may be fine.
The rest of your plan sounds good, and I'd agree with Howie's recommendations. You might want to contact Barry R, Brent L, or Blair P about a specific hydraulic roller cam recommendation. They all build a lot of those engines, and have experience with the available grinds.
-
Howie and Jay, thanks for your answers and suggestions as well as the compliments on the car. Yes she is kind of nice and I'm glad the car is in such a good condition bodywise so that I can just spend the time, when the engine is out of the bay, on smaller improvements on fuel, break and suspension system and the converter of course.
The fuel over here is 95 or 98 octane. I normally use the 98 which has up to 5% ethanol but it's not available at all stations. The 95 is currently also 5% ethanol but they plan to increase it (or if they have already done it) to 10%.
I will check around a bit here to see what people over here are using for fuel supply.
Heo, do you think mechanical will be fine with our fuel?
By the way, is 10:1 still suitable with that octane or should I go a bit higher? Maybe not necessary for my intentions though.
I think I will check with Barry if he has a suitable cam for me when I place the order for the stroker kit.
By the way, any particular brand of converters to avoid or are they all equal? Should I also go for a deeper pan on the C6?
OK, I can feel that I'm getting closer to ordering point :) Will just see if I can educate myself a bit more about compression ratio and different pistons before I contact Mr Rabotnick and get it on the way. ;D
Thanks again for your time, I will try to keep on documenting my progress here and will see if I can attach some pictures also when I get back ashore to the garage.
Have a nice sunday all of you 8)
-
I had no problem with our fuel
and mecanical fuel pump yet
One thing i notised though
On my Model A with adjustabel
main jet. Different fuel brands
takes different adjustments
no problem though you just
turn the choke nob to adjust ;D
Skellefte bränsle that smelled like
Aspen miljö bensin gave me most
power and "scary"high top speed :o ;D ;D
-
Ha Ha, sounds good, skellefte bränsle might be a good reason to go north next summer and see if I experience some off that scary top speed in my Torino as well ;D
-
HA HA you probably reach it in first gear
-
Finally back from sea and can continue on the 390.
Yesterday was a bit like christmas with one package from Jay and one from Dennis at DSC waiting for me. Happy to tell you that thanks to good packaging all parts made it safe and sound across the Atlantic, thanks guys. :D
After opening it was time to head downtown to the garage and start preparations for lifting out the engine. Looks great from that angle although the open hood gives you a wink that maybe not all is great underneath :o
to be continued.....
-
So, decided to have a look under the valve covers just to make sure there wasn't a state of the art valve train with roller rockers lurkin' underneath but nah only the standard non-adjustable ;) ( The newly received quote from a swedish builder makes me hope for miracles ::) )
What had me worried though was that there was quite much debris underneath the covers especially on the drivers side. It looked at first like the parts were rusty but it came of easily with a wipe of the finger and seems more like it is some kind of rusty shavings ?!? it was also a bit rusty on the inside of the covers. Didn't see anything like this down in the tray. On some of the pictures I took it could even look like it was brass shavings in the debris, judging by the color on the photos but this color was not visible in real life so maybe it is just the camera.
Is there anyone who have seen anything like this before or can make out what it is by the pictures?
-
more pictures...
-
That sure looks like rust from condensation. Not common in a running engine. But possible in one that spent a great deal of time sitting in a humid environment. I do not think I would want to run it that way.
-
Hi Barry thanks for answering, no the engine won't be run more before it's rebuild but maybe this is the reason why a rebuild is necessary.
Rust from condensation was my first thought as well when I saw the inside of the covers, I just thought it was a bit strange that it was so much loose debris on the rockers and heads that came off so easy without a pitting underneath. Maybe a contributing factor to the bearings being eaten up as well.
Any suggestions on how to avoid this in the future? Take off covers and cover heads with rag soaked in oil? Unfortunately the only garage available right now is without heating so it will be cold during winter and then it will not be started so often either.
-
I love this thing, I have two
http://www.carbag.com/
In the winter, I am forced to put either the truck or Mustang in an unheated garage and if I want to work on the other. These car jackets are big, heavy duty zippered drive in bags and they are pretty cheap considering how long they last. They come with desiccant bags to soak up the water and as long as you put the bags away in a sealed container each year, they last a long time.
The car stays perfectly clean and dry, not a bit of condensation. I have even used it inside my trailer when I have had to use it for storage. Needless to say, no way to tie the car down when its in a sealed plastic bag, but worked great
-
Hi Ross, that might be an idea, thanks!
-
A friend of mine had rebuilt a 327 for her Camaro
and it was not started for maby 5 years
She test fired it and run it warm and called me
and wanted help to adjust the valves beacuse it
was something wrong
She had got solid lifters for a hyd.cam so we had
to tear it down and change lifters and it was
rust everywere in the engine the oilpump was junk
and the bearings. From running about 20 min to break
in the cam
And it had been stored in a heated garage but never run
after the rebuild
So i think its a big possibility thats what killed your bearings
-
Nice car, very clean! Yeah, looks like rust to me as well, rust that dropped off the valve covers as you struggled (I'm sure) to break them loose.
Take another look at the pushrods.....some have blue paint on them. Someone either had the covers off when re-painting the intake/block or had the entire top of the engine off at some point in time.
-
Hi Bob, thanks for compliments on the car. Actually no struggle at all, no sealant used between covers and gasket so they came of pretty easy.
Maybe someone thought the blue paint would be a nice decorating touch...... ;D
-
If I were to take a wild guess on that engine it would be a piece that sat in a scrapyard or in a dead car somewhere for a decade and then got installed after a quick spray can rebuild. I do not think that it was a functionally running engine for any period of recent history.
Pretty cool car by the way. I am known to like Torinos, and the white/red stripe is an unusual color combination.
-
Hi Barry, yes that's not impossible. It's just that some things have been changed out, for ex. the cam, but come to think about it, these changes can have been done decades ago.
Yeah the red on white is maybe not so common. It's not the original though, if I'm not remembering wrong it was turquois (I also got the paint code from the previous owner and when I looked it up it turned out to be "Olympian White" a chevy color :P :D)
Well hopefully I can reuse the block at least for my rebuild.
By the way Barry, what's the delivery time for a stroker kit?
-
Definitely some odd things going on in there. If I had to guess.. after they rattle canned the block with the valve covers off (see the over spray on the valve-train and push rods). They wire wheeled the remnants of the old cork gasket off the head and did not bother to cover anything up or clean it off before reinstalling the covers. While the old cork gaskets usually just break off, I've seen some where people use that black tar "form a gasket" stuff on both sides of the valve cover gasket to get it to seal and it's a bugger to get cleaned off. As for the rust on the inside of the valve cover itself.. looks like it was sitting off the car and water simply puddled in those spots.
My2c and nice ride!
-
So I have finally reached point of no return (kind of at least ;) )
The engine is now out of the car and along the way I discovered some more peculiar stuff.
You could almost believe there has been two persons working on each side of the car with different suppliers ???
For example, the dust shields on the discbrakes are of different make, the motormounts are new but of different make on each side, there were used different gaskets on left and right exhaust manifold....... but more probable is that it is a "we take what we have and get this together quickly now" car ;D
The gaskets are interresting by the way, on the drivers side they used Mr Gasket 254G and on the passenger side they had used Fel-Pro 1442 and for me as a newbie it was real interresting to see the difference in matching with the heads.
And now time for questions.
1. I'm putting together the shopping list and I just wonder if there is any reason to change out the flywheel in a 500hp 445 build if there are no visible damages to it?
2. After reading on various sites regarding piping diameter I have come to the following conclusion; pipes are measured in inner diameter but tubing as in fuel and brake lines are measured in outside diameter which means that my fuel line which meassures 3/8 inches outside should be a so called "3/8 line" and be good enough for my build. Am I correct or is this a standard 5/16 line (with 3/8 o.d.)?
-
Managed to clear the attached pictures..... :P
-
More pics
-
I'm late to the party and probably missing something. You have what? a 390? If so, the 445 kits are neutral balanced and you can't use your external balanced flywheel.
EDIT: My bad - 390 is neutral and 410/428 are external.
-
Hi Jim, don't worry the party will hopefully go on for a while :D
Yes it's a 390 and it feels like I'm just about to learn something new again :) I thought it was the 428 that was externally balanced but maybe that is just with regards to the damper? Can you re-balance the stock wheel or what is the best choice for my build (see earlier posts)?
-
You are correct - I'm wrong. Edited my post. Wasn't thinking straight - sorry.
-
Yes :), finally the engine is disassembled and ready to be delivered to the engine shop. It's been a fun and interesting task and I'm glad I decided to do it myself because I've learned a lot.
So early in the morning I will go on a 300 mile ride with all the parts. I'm really excited to sit down with the builder/mechanic and discuss the road to success for this build :D
Hopefully he will take some of the old stuff as trade since I will only be using the block, flywheel, valley pan, drip tray and oilslinger. Could really need some help with the budget ;D
After that it's time to go back at sea for a month of work before I can continue with prepping the car for the engine :P
To be continued....
By the way, the rods were marked c7tea and the pistons 390 4v. Are those rods common to use in a 390 and does the 4v mean that they are for a 4 barrel car and high comp?
-
Common rods here: http://www.mustangtek.com/rod/rod.html
4V yes...but high compression is a relative term as no 390 came with what most would call high compression!
-
It turned out that I do not have a 390 that wants to become a 445 but a 360 ??? ;D well maybe the guy just happening to slip when writing and the ad and the 6 became a 9 or maybe I've been screwed again, lol.
This by the way is how you get some FE power into a modern small GM car (SAAB 9-3) you rear mount it ;D
-
Is this a 4 speed car?
I reread you OP and you said C6. doh
-
The 360 is just a destroked 390 so it dosent matters you change the crank anyway
-
Hi Heo, how is the big country in the west? Too many people and not enough snow? Just kidding ;) I know about the crank, it's just a bit irritating that you don't get what you pay for. Also less attractive for sell or trade I believe, not as many that will pay for 360 crank and rods.
But on the other hand it's another good reason why the missus must understand why we have to spend a little extra on the engine ;D
Parts collected or on order so far;
Scat crank
Ohio crankshaft H beam Rods with ARP 2000 bolt
Diamond reverse dome dish pistons #42021
Stage X heads
RPM intake
T&D street roller set
FPA headers
Edelbrock aluminium waterpump
Powerbond damper
MSD ignition system.
and various bits and pieces
So far so good....
-
Oh Its great exept a missed conecting
Flight and a night on a bench at ohare
Airport ;D
Nice and sunny nice people
But Tired after staying awake
40 hours saturday to sunday
and 10 hours in a u-
Haul truck today
-
Yesterday a new box arrived at home. It was my new headers from Santa Stan at FPA. Glad I got to see them before I went to work.
I love the christmas feeling that surrounds this build ;D
Sorry to hear about your struggles Heo but if you need a U-Haul I reckon there is something interresting in it that can light up the mood ;)
By the way, I would like to go with electric fan(s) to the engine and I'm pretty darn sure that a couple of you good people know
a) what puller from SPAL will be enough for the 445? (Street car) Radiator 15" x 23 3/4", can go to 15 1/2" on height before it hits the connections.
b) and if a Powermaster 100 Amp alternator will be enough for this system? I do not have any other equipment that draws a lot of amp, not even a radio.
Now back to work.....
-
I can't help with the Spal fan setup question but I will try on the alternator. I bought one of the old Powermaster 1 wire 100A "upgrade" alt. part #8-47101 for mine, and found out that their dimension specs were wrong in the catalog. The rear bearing stuck out further than the original and actually contacted the cylinder head. I couldn't shim it out too far or it would throw the belt alignment off. So, I decided to flip it upside down and run it like a CJ setup. I made my own bracket for the bottom, but I found a CJ style to replace it now. I told a representative from Powermaster at the racing expo in St. Charles last year about my problem and now if you look in the catalog, they state in the 3G section, great for Ford FE engines! ::) Take it for what it's worth, I guess. Unless you have a lot of accessories, the 100A should be fine. The Ford FE compatible 3G style shows 140A and 200A options. It never hurts to use a bigger alt. or batt. Jmo
-
Hi Jared, thanks for the info, that was the same alternator I had in mind :-\ Now I might go for a 3 G from qualitypowerauto.com or paperformance.com instead. The reason I was a bit conservative on the power is because I read that there is a bigger risk of frying something if you go to high in a car with old wiring.
May I ask were you found the CJ bracket if I for some reason need the bracket anyway?
-
I found my bracket on Ebay.
-
I believe I will go for this http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_17/3G-Small-Case-High-Output-Alternator-with-Internal-Regulator.htm
Sales guy told me it will be a direct fit with the mountings and the pulleys should line up perfectly, hopefully he is right :D
Also found a fan and shroud kit, with spal fans :), that is a direct fit to my Northern radiator http://www.northernfactory.com/HIGH_PERFORMANCE/SEARCH_BY_VEHICLE/MERCURY/COUGAR/1968/Z40069
-
Received suggestion about the camshaft.
Howards hydraulic roller custom grind with following specs: 229/607 in and 237/618 out, 112º LSA.
So excited :D
-
That looks a bit like the old Crane profiles.
They had a rep for being pretty noisy...
-
Hi Barry, do you mean noisy in valvetrain or exhaust? The later I can live with ;)
-
Valvetrain.
No way to be certain on these grinds. Maybe these are better/newer...
But the older Crane ones that were comparable were noted for being really noisy and being hard to control at higher RPM - just kinda sketchy with FE rocker ratio and valve weight. Made good power up to the sketchy point though.
-
OK, very interesting, thanks for the info.
If I decide to go with this cam and if it behaves like the old Crane cam, where do you reckon I will end up with the rev limit? or maybe that is not possible to say until after dyno.
If we would like to play around with it a bit, how much advance do you reckon we can put into it if used together with your Edelbrock's Stage X heads, Diamond reverse dome dish pistons and Fel-Pro steel lined gasket?
I'm interested in learning more so I have a few more additional questions for the forum....
Is it possible to see the above mentioned behaviour by looking at the cam specs or is this something you have to learn through experience because figures doesn't tell it all?
What is it that makes the cam sketchy, is it duration vs lift or is it radius or something else? Is it both the intake and exhaust that causes it or is it one of them?
Also, would like to say thanks to all who comment or answer to this thread. This is mostly new territory to me so all advice and information is appreciated. I have engaged an experienced builder to this project who has done several FE strokers of various size and whom I fully trust but it is always interesting to read about others experiences, there is something to learn from everything, good or bad ;)
So once again, thanks and please have patience with me for not always following your advice ::) but making bad decisions can also be a part of the learning process (most certainly will be in my case ;D )
Woke up this morning from a nightmare where I had to pay 150000 usd extra in tax and first thought in my head after wakening up was - will I be able to finish the Torino :o ?! nothing about wife, kid or home ;D (they are angels who put up with me :) )
-
Builder called, had to add 140 grams of heavy metal to the Scat crank. He wasn't to impressed with that and me neither, another 600 dollars........
"I told you, you should have chosen an Eagle crank but the customer is always right, ha ha ha....", well nothing to do about that now ;)
Still waiting for some parts to arrive from the US, hopefully they arrive the next time I'm home. Then I will go up and have a look at the engine in progress and take some pictures which I can post here.
Also thinking about getting a new C6, anyone here got experience with the 700hp street/strip C6 from Broader Performance?
-
You might think about a C-4 instead of a C-6. C-4s use a lot less power, something like 30 HP less than a C-6. And it is no problem to get a C-4 that is good for 700 HP. When I replaced the C-6 with a C-4 in my Mach 1 back in 2004, it felt like somebody had released the emergency brake. A big, big difference in acceleration.
-
Hi Jay and thanks for the tip. Spent the evening checking out different C4's but unfortunatelly they all seem to be a bit more expensive than what my budget allows as per now. Good to know though where you can pick up 30 extra hp if (when?!?) the fever for more power sets in.
-
The good old C6 is a heavy duty slush box and when done up
it might use a tad more power to run it, but try and break it.
It is a very cost effective way to put the power down that your stroker will make.
A good 10 inch converter in the street/strip range and you will have no problems.
They are easy to rebuild and if you already have one, you could just buy the rebuild kit
and have at it. Save you a bunch of money.
-
Hi Howie, yeah I believe I will stick with a C6 for now. I have one but there are some small cracks in the housing and an ear missing from someones attempt to fit unfitting headers. Now I have the FPA's so there should be no clearance issues I believe and that's why I thought of getting a new instead of rebuilding this one, especially since I haven't done it before either.
Broader Performance have one rated at 700hp which should be plenty for my engine, it would cost 1835 usd together with a 10" converter and after what I read on the net they seems to have happy customers.
-
So a couple of weeks ago I could finally collect the engine from the builder after 10 month with a lot of delays and waiting (not his fault though). I asked for an engine suitable for a daily driver and after what he told me and how the dyno sheet looks, it seems like I got what I wanted. Fairly strong engine with the power coming early so I can keep down the revs and hopefully this will keep the engine happier for a little longer and minimize service and breakdown time :)
To get the engine in the Torino was a real tight fit but after some minor adjustments the headers and canton t-pan finally made their way down in the bay. One problem remains though being that I will have to lower the rear transmission support when I change oil so that the oil plug come below the engine room crossmember :o
I still have some more stuff to do when I come home in August (starter,generator, fans, trans cooling, exhaust, brakes etc) but hopefully I will be able to run it for at least a few weeks this year :)
I will try to attach some pictures from various stages of the build.
-
In place
-
At dyno
-
Build pics
-
That engine is a torque monster! Should haul around the Torino very nicely.
-
Very Nice. You gonna take bets on how far it will roast the tires?? ::)
-
Thanks for your compliments both Jay and John. No diff yet so it will probably be a long single worm on my original sized tires I believe ;D I don't dare to get better traction until I have invested some in the rear end, drive-shaft and u-joints......
-
512/2800 8)
-
Still not started and driven the car but hopefully I will at least start it this weekend. Just some electronic bits and pieces (new alternator, new fans and some gauges) to sort out first.
The alternator, a 130A model from Quality power, made contact with the heads and I didn't want to start grinding on it so instead I lengthened the alternator arm and hence the cut out in the battery tray.
I have how ever run in to another problem. The FPA's follow the engine and car so much tighter than the old hookers that they come in conflict with the transmission cross member, see pictures.
Is there anyone out there who has dealt with the same problem and if so how did you do?
Been looking for slimmer aftermarket mounts but have not found any for Torino 68. Will a 8-10mm flat iron be sturdy enough?
The headers are also really close to the brake line going aft. Is there any risk of "boiling" the fluid (headers are cheramic coated)?
-
And another thing, when I rebuild the exhaust system, should I keep the H-pipe or make it nice and simple and just go straight back?
-
Definitely need a balance tube(H-pipe) or X-pipe. Helps everywhere, torque, horsepower, noise reduction. Joe-JDC
-
Ok Joe, thanks for your reply. The pipe is a keeper then.
-
I usualy bend up a new crossmember out of some Tubing
Is there room for making an S in the exhaust
Well i be at your place sunday or monday and we can
Have a look at it
-
You just need an S-bend to make the connection but you knew that. The only other fix is to cut off maybe 2-3 feet of exhaust, plus the h-pipe, and weld-in new tubing at a better angle while re-using the H section.
On the brake line, if it's 1" or more away, it'll be fine. Or, you could re-plumb it further away. \
If you look at your master cylinder lines, especially with headers, one or both lines likely are already darned close anyway and haven't caused you any grief I'll bet.
-
Today we were happy to be able to invite some visitors from the other end of Sweden. Heo and his Erika was down in the south for another reason and luckily they could come by for a coffe and some FE discussioning :D
Unfortunatelly the engine was not ready to run yet (tomorrow, tomorrow) but Heo had a look at it and the car and came with some much appreciated advice.
He (as well as you Machoneman, thanks for your input) also recommended the S-routing of the exhaust so that will be next project together with upgrading driveshaft and rearend.
The brake line is real close to the headers but I will try first to cover it with a heat shield "sock", if that doesn't help I will have to re-route the line.
Tomorrow I will connect the plug wires, fill up coolant and transmission oil and then start it up ;D (hopefully all my gazillion connections in the fuel system will keep tight ::))
Again, Lars and Erika thanks for visiting and have a safe drive home :)
-
Hi Landlubber we are in Skurup now
Starting the 1000+Miles trip home
In the morning
I forgot, The conection pipe in the H
Was thinner than the Main pipes i would
Change it to the same dia.
And Thanks again for the salmon dinner
-
Yes! 14 months after it was taken out from the car it was back, reborn as a 445 and finally started ;D ;D ;D
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-_5p5YOvsfMemp5eHRoZFkzRlE/view?usp=drivesdk
A bit rough idling (around 700), a bit low on the fuel pressure, 6 psi, and a bit high on the oil pressure, 80 psi idling cold, but I'm just so happy ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
-
Rouge idle?? Naahhh 8)
-
Seems like the fuel pressure and cold oil pressure are about normal.
Mine idles about as rough, but it's more like 900rpms in gear.
Sounds great tho, good luck with it!
-
Another 6 months, winter is gone and today the car passed the dmv test and is good to go
-
And here it is
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-_5p5YOvsfMZFNuSzZrd0J5eWc/view?usp=drivesdk
-
More throtle More throtle.... ;D
-
I'll be back with more throttle when I get home from sea Heo. ;D
-
Taking off in the garage with new wheels ;)
-
Im on my way down south in a few weeks Erica is allredy
down there. I hope i have the Galaxie ready to run by then
so i can drive that down there. Maby we have some spare
time to visit
-
That would be really fun. You're more than welcome :D