FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: jholmes217 on July 26, 2015, 11:03:35 AM
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Anybody have any special tricks for getting a clutch Z-bar in with Hooker Super Comp headers? Car is a 69 Mustang Q code. Engine, tranny, and headers are already in. Trying to get the Z-bar into the pivot points is kicking my butt.
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Been a while since I did that, but if I recall correctly you've got to unbolt the driver's side motor mount and jack the engine up on that side. Also I may have had to unbolt the pivot bracket from the block, get the Z-bar into position, install the pivot bracket and bolt it onto the engine, then finally let the engine back down on the motor mount.
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Supercomps aren't tough, but you'll skin some knuckles
I either went engine mount last or frame mount last, I cannot remember.
I think it was frame mount last. Car in the air, without the engine jacked up of I remember correctly
Bolt on the engine pivot, slip the zbar and frame pivot in the general area, slide the zbar onto the engine mount, and use a long extension to tighten the frame mount. Two people helps greatly because one can start the frame pivot bolts while the other holds the z-bar
Then hook up the two rods. Keep in mind, the frame mount is an adjustment, it goes in and out, you want some play, but not enough to let the engine torque pop it free.
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Supercomps aren't tough, but you'll skin some knuckles
I either went engine mount last or frame mount last, I cannot remember.
I think it was frame mount last. Car in the air, without the engine jacked up of I remember correctly
Bolt on the engine pivot, slip the zbar and frame pivot in the general area, slide the zbar onto the engine mount, and use a long extension to tighten the frame mount. Two people helps greatly because one can start the frame pivot bolts while the other holds the z-bar
Then hook up the two rods. Keep in mind, the frame mount is an adjustment, it goes in and out, you want some play, but not enough to let the engine torque pop it free.
OK. I'll try doing the frame side last. I can see those bolts from the fender, and if I can get them start in, I should be able to tighten them from the top with extensions like you said. I just got done putting the starter in, and that was a chore also.
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On my '63 Galaxie with factory cast headers, I had the frame mount in, but used studs on the engine for ease of fitment. Every other way I tried was not successful.
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I just did this a while back...again. All I had to do was loosen the left header by taking the lower bolts out and loosening the tops. That way the header could be "swung" out a little bit. I already had the frame mount on (it's a PITA trying to reach it from above) and left the block mount off, figured out the correct rubiks cube move to get the Z bar up and in, slid the block mount up and bolted everything up. The only part that was a pain was forgetting to leave the header loose, so had to loosen it after already having them all tightened.
I'll forget this all the next time I go to do it, so I'll have to re-figure this out all over again, just like I've done half a dozen times ???
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I don't doubt that it was easier with a loose header, but I am positive that once I tightened my headers on the floor, I didn't loosen the drives side in the car.
Been 9 years since I swung the 489 in, so I don't remember the procedure, but I am sure of that part. If it matters, mine is a 70 without power brakes, stock Z-bar and a Lakewood blowshield.
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Thanks for the responses. It is in, rods and springs are attached. I will work on clutch adjustments later. I didn't want to loosen a header because I have Remflex gaskets, and you can't reuse them and my header bolts were already torqued down. So, I tightened the block pivot point first, then put the Z-bar up into close position. Then I slipped the unattached frame side pivot point onto the Z-bar, then put the block side of the Z-bar in. Then, to hold things in close position, I attached the top clutch rod. Then I maneuvered the frame side into position, got the bolts in, then used a wrench to tighten them while using a pry bar to put a little pressure on it so it would wiggle once tightened. Once that was done, I had my sons help by pushing in and pulling up on the clutch pedal. Easier to get the springs on and the cotter pins in when someone is moving things around for you.
Once again, thanks for the input, and like Prego, it's in there! Didn't have to undo a motor mount and jack up one side either, but I can see where it would have possibly made things easier. Would give more hand and tool room I think.
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Its been almost 30 years since I sold the car, but on my 70 R code 4 speed Mach 1, with Hooker 6114 headers and a Lakewood scattershield, I installed the engine side pivot before tightening the header bolts. I would then install the Z bar and frame pivot. My car had power brakes, so I found removing the master cylinder gave much more working room, and I could get a socket and long extension on the 2 bolts for the frame pivot from topside.