FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Stangman on July 21, 2015, 11:57:20 AM
-
About to put intake on and going to lube cam with what it cam with which from the 5/8 oz packet it seems thin I remember the black cam lube that was like brake grease . If I don't get to start it for a week or two I feel it will just drip off, is that not the case. It is a solid cam I will be using brad penn breaking oil but is there a better cam lube something with a little more substance or use the comp cams lube that it came with
-
We have used Isky Rev Lube for a long time on flats. It is a thick paste you can brush on or smear by finger and stays put. It works great. Speedwaymotors has it reasonable. Just don't get it on clothes, it's like antiseize. ::)
-
Is that the same as the comp cams lube
-
The Comp Cams lube I've gotten in the past felt like nothing more than thick tacky oil. I didn't feel comfortable with that so I tried an experiment once where I put Comps lube on one lobe and Cranes paste lube on another. By morning the Comp lube had thinned from heat and had almost eentirely ran off the lobe while the Crane stuff was still there. That was enough for me! Others said that they didn't have a problem with it, but I can't possibly see how and when I asked them to try the experiment I got no reply.
Maybe it's changed, I don't know. That was about 15 years ago, but I've never touched the stuff since. The Crane lube is like the black grease you mentioned, very pastey. Maybe get a couple types and see which feels best?
-
If it's a roller cam, oil or assembly lube will work just fine. If it's a flat tappet, I use the Joe Gibbs engine assembly lube and work it into the lobes liberally. It doesn't fall off.
-
I have used like four cams in my 427 never had to worry about wiping out a lobe that was 15 years ago. now you have to leave inner springs out use breakin oil and stand on your head. with all of the advancements made it seems like the cams are worse. Hey who knows maybe I got lucky all those times. With that being said I am going to do all the things that I have to do so it doesnt happen. Thats why I was worried about the cam lube from comp
-
I also do a rain dance and chop up 3 watermelons length ways with a dull machete standing in my underwear. It seems to help.
Biggest thing about flat tappet break-in is to use the right oil, make sure the spring pressures aren't too wild, make sure it fires immediately, and get it up to rpm to sling oil around. I also won't build a flat tappet engine without using EDM lifters...
I think a lot of the issue is that we are running more aggressive lobes now than we were 15-20-30 years ago and the spring pressures reflect that. I try not to be over 100 lbs seat and 270-280 lbs open on the break-in.
-
I also do a rain dance and chop up 3 watermelons length ways with a dull machete standing in my underwear. It seems to help.
I would respectfully request that you do NOT post any videos of this event :o
-
Btw Stangman, is this a roller or flat tappet cam? It almost sounds like you are talking about a flat, is that correct? I mentioned the Isky lube is as messy as antiseize, but come to think of it, it seems like a good comparison for viscosity also. The Rev Lube is about identical to antiseize consistency. The Motorcraft that is, the Permatex seems to be a little thinner now. Anyway, the Rev Lube is loaded with Moly Sulfide and I think also loaded with zinc and phosphorus for reduced friction and wear. If it were a roller cam, I would probably just use a nice thick assembly lube. Also just my opinion here, but if the roller cam had needle bearings instead of bushings, I would still run Brad Penn oil for the zinc content. The zinc is good for the needles. It may help on a street car, but I haven't tried it yet.
-
I also do a rain dance and chop up 3 watermelons length ways with a dull machete standing in my underwear. It seems to help.
I would respectfully request that you do NOT post any videos of this event :o
Well, thanks for ruining my plans this evening...
-
It is a flat . I will do everything the way I am suppossed to whats thw deal with edm lifters is it the lifters that are weak or the cams
-
I think a lot of the issue is that we are running more aggressive lobes now than we were 15-20-30 years ago and the spring pressures reflect that. I try not to be over 100 lbs seat and 270-280 lbs open on the break-in.
This is one of the reasons I always stayed away from Comp Cams for street engines. They basically started the aggressive lobe stuff years ago, which is what helped develop their reputation for building more power given a certain duration. I always knew I was giving up some horsepower, but the longevity seemed more important to me. Now, most cam makers have gone that direction to compete.
That's why I was surprised when I pulled my 390 apart after 20+ years of street driving and found one lobe on my Crane cam was .020 low, with the crown of the lobe worn smooth across. The lifter was also worn down about the same amount, yet it was smooth across the bottom. SOMEHOW the lifter continued to turn, which saved the whole deal. It had evidently ran that way for at LEAST the last 15 years. How, I'll never know!
And contrary to Jay, I'd love to see this rain dance...as long as it's shot from the waist up ;D
-
Thanks guys I think I will try and find some of the old crane cams black lube I do have some not sure if I have enough
-
It is a flat . I will do everything the way I am suppossed to whats thw deal with edm lifters is it the lifters that are weak or the cams
The EDM lifters have a oil hole on the face of the lifter. They are pressure fed, so they continually pee oil out on the lobe.
-
Thanks guys I think I will try and find some of the old crane cams black lube I do have some not sure if I have enough
The Crane paste worked great for me, never had an issue and it stays put as was stated earlier. Used it on an old 348 W motor that sat for at least 6 months before initial fire and it still did the job. I'd only add that most of the stuff I used it on was in fact "less aggressive" as was also stated earlier.
-
Thanks lens and Brent do you have to change the pushrods or make other modifications
-
Yes, they are SBF lifters....so the pushrod will be a different length.
-
Thanks brent