FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Vendor Classifieds => Topic started by: jayb on January 18, 2015, 01:48:07 PM
-
FE Timing Covers
To purchase an FE Power Timing Cover, please go to the link on the main page:
http://www.fepower.net/Products/fetc.html
- Features:
- Removable front cover with an O-ring seal, allowing removal of the top timing gear and camshaft through the cover, or changing the cam timing if an adjustable top cam gear is used.
- Extended bolt bosses for the bottom two bolts, allowing the front corner oil pan bolts to be tapped through more material. This eliminates the stripped threads commonly found in factory FE timing covers.
- Additional mounting bosses on the front of the cover around the crankshaft opening, for attaching brackets or mounting additional parts, such as a crank sensor.
- Provisions to use the stock FE front seal, or alternatively a 351C front seal. Using the 351C front seal allows the seal to be changed without removing the timing cover, and also allows the use of available 351C double lip seals, for use on engines with vacuum pumps or dry sumps. (Using the 351C front seal requires the sealing surface of the stock FE crank sleeve to be machined towards the front of the engine).
- Front cover plate is powder coated in a shiny silver color; black or dark blue powder coated covers are available by special request, at no extra cost.
- Options: There are two part numbers of the timing covers available; see the description and photos below.
Part #14001 includes the mechanical fuel pump mount.
Part #14002 is machined flat with no hole for the mechanical fuel pump. (Note: FE Power is currently out of stock on the #14002 covers. They are expected back in stock in early 2017)
Pictures below are of the #14001 timing cover:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/FE Timing Covers/14001_1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/FE Timing Covers/14001_2.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/FE Timing Covers/14001_3.jpg)
Pictures below are of the #14002 timing cover:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/FE Timing Covers/14002_1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/FE Timing Covers/14002_2.jpg)
Thank-you for your interest in these timing covers!
-
I'll take a 14002 with stock fe seal, silver. Sent you an email.
-
save me one of the 14002's :)
-
I'll take a 14001, silver. Sending an email now.
Just one question, will replacement O-ring seals be available should one be needed?
-
Yes, I will have the O-rings in stock for any potential replacement requirements. FWIW though, I've R&Rd the one on my 428CJ at least a dozen times already, and no issues so far.
-
I'm interested in one of the 14001, I sent an Email.
-
Hi Jay, I just received my 14002 timing cover in the post and wanted to say a big thanks. What a great looking and well made part! Thanks again.
-
Glad you like it, Todd. Seems like it got there pretty fast too; I've had books take 3 weeks to get to Australia...
-
Jay, I received my cover Thursday . What a great cool part. Thanks for helping to keep the FE alive.
What's next in the Que ??????
-
Glad you like it. I'm currently working on an intake manifold designed specifically for use with my intake adapter. Still at least several months away on that one...
-
Jay,
Received the cover today - very pleased! Here's a pic of it mocked up on my 427 Marine block destined for the Galaxie.
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u624/Bselby1/427%20Engines/Marine%20with%20FE%20Power%20Timing%20Cover_0115b_zpsapnevwgl.jpg) (http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/Bselby1/media/427%20Engines/Marine%20with%20FE%20Power%20Timing%20Cover_0115b_zpsapnevwgl.jpg.html)
Bruce
-
Jay: any thoughts about doing the removable front piece in finned aluminum?
Might be asking a lot but I'm into the older look. as in this picture.
Richard
-
I've thought about it, but then the water pump would have to be spaced out to clear the thicker finned cover. Then, the water pump pulley would be spaced out, so a spacer for the crank pulley would also be required. Not to mention spacing out the alternator.
Let's say I did do a finned aluminum cover. How would you handle the other requirements?
-
Electric water pump with spacers?
Marine cam-driven water pump?
-
An option of a finned cover might be a good idea, there certainly has been enough interest. A person could always add it to a FE Power timing cover they already have if they use it on a different build as long as it's interchangeable. Just be sure to add the disclaimer that it won't fit with a standard water pump. Unique FE Power water pump adapters with longer legs could be offered. I see applications with street rods, dragsters, boats, etc.
-
One thing to watch for on spacing the electric pump out is radiator/electric fan clearance. I've got a thick aluminium in my mustang with dual fans and its very tight.
-
One thing to watch for on spacing the electric pump out is radiator/electric fan clearance. I've got a thick aluminium in my mustang with dual fans and its very tight.
Agreed, I have a Meziere in my Mustang with Griffin radiator and electric fan and have no extra clearance. I'm sure Jay had that in mind with the decision to use the steel cover and and ability to use stock or as manufactured components. But plenty of applications that would have the room and might want the "Bling". Along with the ones I mentioned, trucks could be another possibility.
-
Here's a model of a finned aluminum front cover plate that I could potentially offer with the timing covers, or as a separate accessory:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/Finned Cover Plate.jpg)
The cover is about 1/2" thick; the thinnest sections are 1/4" thick, so that the aluminum wouldn't deform too much when compressing the O-ring that seals it to the cover. The fins are slightly less than 1/4" tall.
What I would probably do is offer this cover along with several spacers to allow use of the factory components, if required. I would include 3/8"" spacers for the legs of the water pump, plus a donut spacer for the crank pulley and a sleeve spacer for the alternator. On the water pump spacers I think I would groove them for O-rings like I do with my electric water pump adapters, so that on the water pump side they could be attached with sealer, but on the block side the O-ring would do the sealing. Alternatively, in this configuration they could also be used with the electric water pump adapters. As a guess, price on this complete setup would be $125.
Any interest in a setup like this? As you guys have probably figured out, I use posts like this to gauge interest in a potential product, to help me decide if I want to go through the work and expense of making it available. So, if you might be interested in something like this, please post here, or send an email to me at jayb@fepower.net. Thanks, Jay
-
I would like one.
-
Should include, or option, a removable mechanical fuel pump plate, over the cam. Sized to match the standard plates use on Enderle, Hilton or moon front covers.
-
That's an interesting idea. Is there a standard size for such a plate? I'm afraid I have no information on that; it would be nice to have a drawing, or an example to measure...
-
It's a standard size plate to fit a standard Hilborn fuel pump.
I'm thinking though that your starting piece of billet would have to be twice as thick because the meat of the pump mounting flange would probably be behind the face of the plate in order to allow for the mounting bolts.
-
I have used mechanical injector pumps a lot on Bosch injection and diesels I suppose if your class requires no EFI mechanical injection might be cool. Really though I would think demand would be not too high for a cam driven fuel pump. A drive for a dry sump would be cool or magneto drive.
-
I was just thinking about Hilborn Injection earlier this week and figured a plate could be made for one of your timing covers to drive the pump off of the cam. Of course there isn't alot of call for that, but it wouldn't be too hard to do.
-
I now have the timing covers back in stock, both versions, with your choice of silver, blue, or black cover plates. Also, I have decided to proceed with a finned aluminum cover plate for the timing covers, and should have those available sometime in May.
-
Jay,
do you still have any of these in stock or would there be a wait on one as well ? I'm interested in a 14002 although either one would work for me. if you still have one available when the adapter is done i think id like to get one.
-
I still have both versions in stock, Keith. I'll save a 14002 for you - Jay
-
ok thanks Jay, that will be great.
-
That's an interesting idea. Is there a standard size for such a plate? I'm afraid I have no information on that; it would be nice to have a drawing, or an example to measure...
I have a Hilborn pump if you want the spec's and such.
I'll have to dig it out. ::)
A Hilborn Pump.
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/ScotiaFE/Fittings/DSCN1381_zpssprfy8qv.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/ScotiaFE/media/Fittings/DSCN1381_zpssprfy8qv.jpg.html)
(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q128/ScotiaFE/Fittings/DSCN1382_zpsvnkswa8j.jpg) (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/ScotiaFE/media/Fittings/DSCN1382_zpsvnkswa8j.jpg.html)
-
How do I get a 14001
-
Read the first post in this thread, that will give you pricing and payment instructions. I have the 14001 covers in stock for immediate shipment - Jay
-
Did the finned cover plate ever hit production?
-
Nope, I haven't gotten to that yet, unfortunately. Hopefully sometime this winter. I will post in this thread and the other thread on the Member Projects forum when I have it ready.
-
Jay: when you get the finned covers in.
I'm a customer.
Richard >>> FERoadster
-
Jay, Do you or get the adjustable timing chain for your cover
-
I'm waiting for Barry on that one. I've got a prototype that I can show you, if you are coming by on the 21st - Jay
-
Off topic I know but Jay, have you ever ran off any FE power decals ?
-
Nope, I've thought about it, and I'll probably do it eventually, but up until now I haven't.
-
I'm sure it would be a cool design, I'd happily fly a few..
-
is the 1402 fuel pump blank thick enough to drill and tap for a 3/8 pipe thread , to run pcv off of , to be able to run baldy valve covers .
-
If I understand your question right, you would be sucking oil from the timing chain constantly. A real smoker, and run low on oil very quickly. I would not even consider this as a viable option. Joe-JDC
-
I know of at least one guy who claims to be doing that successfully, although I haven't seen his setup. He is using a standard timing cover with a plate, and welded a bung into the plate to hook up to his crankcase evacuation system. But, he may be burning some oil, I don't know.
I will check the thickness of the 14002 timing cover at the fuel pump location and post the results later - Jay
-
It's quite common actually, even if its not thick enough to tap, you could use a standard sandwich type valve cover vacuum pump fitting. Filtered or non filtered, maybe turn the holes toward the front of the cover.
JMO.
-
The 14002 timing cover is roughly 1/4" thick on the flat surface where the fuel pump would have mounted. I think you could probably tap it with 3/8" pipe and get away with it, since there wouldn't be any real stress on the fitting. 1/4" pipe for sure...
-
thanks Jay
-
Interested in the 14001 timing cover. In stock ? Does the same deal as listed above still apply ? thanks , Bob
-
They are in stock, and the pricing shown at the beginning of the thread still applies - Jay
-
Hi Jay, Any plans for two piece valve covers? Removeable top! Thanks Richard
-
Hi Richard, I don't have any plans to make something like that. I'm not sure what advantage they would offer; the only thing I could think of would be to run the engine with the tops off, or pre-oil with the tops off, to minimize any mess. To me, its just as easy to remove the whole valve cover. Am I missing something? What would be the advantage of a part like this?
-
Hi Jay, Adjusting the valves with the engine running? Thanks, Richard
-
Now that would be a neat trick, adjusting shaft mounts rockers while running . lol.
-
No one adjusts valves with the engine running.....
rant/ That is normally the advice given by the guy that tells you to disconnect the battery while the engine is running to check if the alternator works. He also is the guy that says to just "crank down" on that there bolt on the steering gear to tighten it up. This is the FE Power forums. If you want to get advice like the above, feel free to visit just about any Ford truck forum and I'm sure some 16 year old will tell you to do it that way "because I always done it that way, like my pappy told me ta." /rant
-
Now that would be a neat trick, adjusting shaft mounts rockers while running . lol.
I've actually seen that done on an FE with hydraulic lifters and adjustable rockers; a backyard mechanic I knew in the 1980s did it that way once when I was watching. He had one noisy lifter he was trying to quiet down, and used some kind of a loose deep-well socket on the adjuster head and tightened it until the lifter noise went away with the engine running. Socket and extension were rattling around like mad LOL! Not a really good plan, of course...
-
Ok now I have to talk about my dark side.
I have adjusted BB chev rockers while the engine is running.
They sell these little clips to clip on the rocker to slow the oil squirt
and you crank down on the rocker until the noise stops.
Yes I have been to the dark side. :o
I had a 69 396 Chevelle. I will probably always have a soft spot for it.
-
oh well, on a Chevy that is different..... it's probably in the Chevy shop manual.
"To set valves, take a large impact gun with a 7/16th socket. Set air pressure for 150psi and tighten down on each rocker adjuster until all noise stops." -1966 Nova Shop manual
-
I'm ready for a 14002 when you are :-).
-
Sent you a PM, Jon...
-
Got my 14002 today, thanks Jay nice part!
-
Quick stupid question after reading the instructions, I have one of Barry's spacers that is shortened to accept the ATI balancer. Do I still need to machine the spacer? I do not have in front of me but as I remember it is smooth all the way. It was shortened 7/16 to make the balancer line up in the original location.
-
Jon, the sealing surface of the crank sleeve has to be lengthened along the sleeve if you use the 351C front seal that installs from the front. Otherwise, the seal will not ride on the machined surface of the sleeve. No machining of the crank sleeve is necessary if you use the FE front seal that installs from the back - Jay
-
Jon, the sealing surface of the crank sleeve has to be lengthened along the sleeve if you use the 351C front seal that installs from the front. Otherwise, the seal will not ride on the machined surface of the sleeve. No machining of the crank sleeve is necessary if you use the FE front seal that installs from the back - Jay
Not sure how it works out on Barry's part, it is billet steel. Guess I'll find out when I mock it up, I would like to use the double lip seal if I can get away with it. Not sure if the 7/16 I removed will make the seal fall in the seam between the two parts either. As I recall I am running the same balancer as you have, the ATI BB Chevy converted to fit the FE.
-
I'm using one of these on my race FE with a HM timing cover:
http://www.tritecmotorsports.com/Engine_Seals-Ford_Big_Block_A460-A600.htm
-
Got my cover, nice addition with the removable cover. Thanks
Does someone make a hex-a-just timing chain for the fe.
Michael
-
Cloyes makes a hex-adjust set for the FE. Barry R at Survival and I are also working on another option, should be a little more robust than the hex-adjust setup. Hopefully available in May...
-
Cloyes makes a hex-adjust set for the FE. Barry R at Survival and I are also working on another option, should be a little more robust than the hex-adjust setup. Hopefully available in May...
Is there an option similar to the old Jaguar cam timing gear?
-
I'm not familiar with that one, do you have a picture?
-
I'm not familiar with that one, do you have a picture?
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/white65ford/V12%20timing%20chain%20diagram.jpg) (http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/white65ford/media/V12%20timing%20chain%20diagram.jpg.html)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/white65ford/8228526723_215d63dda3_m.jpg) (http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/white65ford/media/8228526723_215d63dda3_m.jpg.html)
This is the set up but it does not look like it is the same unless it's too small to see. The only one I ever repaired was an 85 XJ12. The 4 bolt center piece of the cam gear was cut in a way that that the center stayed on the cam and the gear sat on a lip that had 20 + small splines and about 6 smaller bolts to hold the two pieces together. Pull the 6 small bolts, this allowed you to dial the cam by moving the outer part of the gear forward off the splines. It seems there was a snout on the center piece that kept the outer gear suspended so it would not jump off the chain. Overheating damaged three pistons and cracked both heads but the chain and tensioners were in good shape, making it unnecessary to disturb cam timing. Unsuccessful picture searches leads me to think it was an aftermarket chain set.
-
The set that I'm working on sounds like it uses the same basic principle. It is similar in function to the Cloyes Quick-Adjust True sets available for some other engines; link below:
http://cloyes.com/quickadjust.html
Same deal as what you are describing with a disc that stays fixed with respect to the cam, the gear that can rotate with respect to the cam, and several bolts holding the two halves together.
-
Worth the investment to leave that balancer alone.
Thanks
-
Jay I ask my machine shop about the hexajust by cloyes and he said they sold him a couple of engines every year. Do not use them was his advise. Have you made any progress on the quik a just yet. Thanks Mack
-
Yes, I should have the first prototypes in two weeks. I will post some pictures when I have them - Jay
-
What about a price. I am ready to put my engine together. If the price is out of my range there is no need for me to wait. I guess it will at least look adjustable with the fancy cover. Thanks
-
I really haven't set the price yet, but it will be in the $200 to $240 range, depending on how much everything ends up costing. Hope that helps - Jay
-
Now that would be a neat trick, adjusting shaft mounts rockers while running . lol.
I've actually seen that done on an FE with hydraulic lifters and adjustable rockers; a backyard mechanic I knew in the 1980s did it that way once when I was watching. He had one noisy lifter he was trying to quiet down, and used some kind of a loose deep-well socket on the adjuster head and tightened it until the lifter noise went away with the engine running. Socket and extension were rattling around like mad LOL! Not a really good plan, of course...
Late response to an old post. When I bought my XR7 it had a .580/.590 Crane Compucam solid in it. I wanted a milder cam, so I installed a 268H, but kept the adj rockers. I did not touch the screws until after restart/break-in. With the idle down around 550-600, I oiled up an aforementioned deep socket and let it slide up and down my palm (sounds kinky, I know) while I ran around all 16. Worked like a charm. Maybe not the best "plan", but hey.
-
Jay any news on the timing chain yet. Thanks Mack
-
The guy making the gears called me a couple days ago, apologized for the delay, and said the first prototype sets would ship by the end of next week. All I can do is wait ::) Sorry for the delay - Jay
-
Jay I'm still waiting on the timing chain set, among other things so no big deal. But can I be on a list for these first sets coming if they come in a reasonable time.
Thanks either way.,. Mack
-
Mack, I sent you a PM - Jay