FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: bkdunha on July 15, 2014, 08:04:08 AM
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New to the site as of yesterday, but I have been reading and searching many posts over the last week. Here is a little background for information on my project hoping that I can receive some feedback from the members. I have a stock 67 GT Mustang S code 4 spd that I conservativly restored back to stock in 2006. Over the past 5 years I have been completing a concourse restoration of my 72 Mach 1, the first car I have owned since I turned 15 (30'ish years ago). Now I am turning my attention back to the 67 to add some mild performance enhancements to the drivetrain. I would like to stay with the ability to restore it back to its original configuration if I choose to in the future, so I do not plan on any dramatic changes.
The car currently has the stock cam on a refresh of the motor (.010 rods/mains, .030 on the cylinders, hardened seats 3 angle on stock heads). In searching the forum I beleive I will go with the Comp 268H Grind (218 I / 218 E @ .050, Adv Dur 268 I / 268 E, .494 lift, 110 seperation). This is a power brake car and will rarely if ever see a strip. I am running an open 9" 3:00 gearing, but considering bumping it up to 3:25 traction lock.
My deliberation and quest for feedback is in the headers. Price is a concern as most of the money tree was picked bare with the restoration of the 72. I do want to go with ceramic coating as I live in the sticky south and any relief that can be had from heat is welcomed. I am exploring the FPA Tri Y's and the Doug's 626 long tube headers. The FPA's are at least 3 weeks out in backorder and about $250 more than the Doug's. The Doug's are available now. Again, this will be a street application and I would like to upgrade to a rack and pinion in the future. Any feedback from the forum membership would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you,
Brian
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The Doug's headers have an odd application description. It says 16 bolt exhaust, which means CJ/early port, but then says, not CJ.
I would bet dollars to donuts that it is a CJ style port and will not seal to your GT heads (not only is the bolt patter different, but the "GT", better known as unibody or common heads, have a port centerline approx .250 lower.
Bottom line, I do not think the Dougs will work with the current heads you have. That leaves FPA
However, your plan is pretty good. Headers and a good dual exhaust, recurve the distributor and the 3.25s will make it fun
Later add a cam and an intake, and it will be more fun, but I wouldn't rush to the cam until you want to do the intake, the headers, ignition and gears will make more difference for your use.
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Thank you. I am learning as I go on making performance upgrades. Your knowledge of the port centerline is very valuable. I figure while I have the motor out to do some freshening up in the engine bay I will knockout the need to do's with the motor out. I will then move on to the intake and carb as I get a little more money to play with. So it looks like I need to sell a kidney now to get the FPA's ;D.
I would like to go with a Performer RPM intake, but I found a Performer on Craigslist that is close for $100. Would I get any minor improvements with the Performer while I save for the RPM? Any further advice on carb cfm making these changes. I am currently running the stock 4150 600 cfm, vaccum secondary.
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Would I get any minor improvements with the Performer while I save for the RPM?
:) Whaddya think My427stang? :D LOL
Just a little kidding bkdunha.
Welcome to the site.
We have a little friendly banter going back and forth about Performers vs Perf RPMs.
All in good fun.
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Ross had you covered on most of the upgrades! ;)
The last one I would do (it would help) ignition upgrade! If your running points, I would use ether the Pertronix Ignitor II (if you dont want a box) or maybe the Ignitor III in it. That helps with cold starts and complete burn. Every little bit helps out! With Headers, exhaust, intake and carb... The ignition would be a great add to that. JMHO
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No way Giddy Up!
3.50 gears or better.
A stock 67 GT 4sp car came with a 3.00 open?
Most came with 3.25's.
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I would consider going up to 3.50 to 3.70 gears, rather than 3.25. A 3.50 gear will put 16.6% more torque to the pavement at a given engine speed than the 3.00 gears you have now, which will be a noticeable improvement in acceleration. A 3.70 gear will give you a 23% improvement. Before headers, ignition, or ANYTHING else, I would put a set of high performance gears in the car.
Next on my list would be intake and carb. I guess I must have missed the Performer vs. Performer RPM stuff, but at the risk of offending someone (not sure who LOL!), I think you'd be wasting your money on the Performer; go with the Performer RPM, and maybe a 700 or 750 double pumper Holley carb. About this time you could also get the distributor curved for a quicker advance curve, and maybe upgrade to a better coil, or a CD ignition box like an MSD.
On the headers, +1 on the FPAs; they are worth it from a ground clearance perspective alone. A lot of guys like to get the headers done first, which is OK, but my dyno testing has proven (to me anyway) that there is more power to be had from the intake/carb combination than the headers.
Last on the list would be cam and valvetrain. Having said all that, there is something to be said for making all the engine modifications at once; then you only have to re-tune the car once, rather than after every change.
Good luck on the project - Jay
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No way Giddy Up!
3.50 gears or better.
A stock 67 GT 4sp car came with a 3.00 open?
Most came with 3.25's.
My 67 GT 4 speed came with 3.0 open also.
I put 4.11's in it, but that was years ago, now I would go with 3.50's for highway driving.
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Thank you all for the feedback and I welcome more. I failed to mention earlier that I do have a Pertronix Ingnitor II in it now. I may need to reconsider to the 3:50 gearing, but this car will spend most of its time on the road with some long road trips sprinkled in. With the 3:00 I was getting about 12 miles to the galloon for the 1300 mile round trip to Charlotte in April. Point noted on the Performer vs Perf RPM. If my only gain would be weight I will probably hold off and save for the RPM. I will focus my search on a 700 to 750 carb. I would REALLY like to go with an EFI system, but unless I win the lottery that aint happenin.
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We all should have asked about a local short trip weekend car or a long trip highway star :-[
The 3:50's should cut your gas mileage by roughly 15% or say to about 10.3 mpg :(.
1,300 miles /10.3 mpg = 126 ga. x say $3.50 ga. = $442.00!
Your call!
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Bob's right, it's easy to head off down a path that might not be the best fit for your situation. You've got plenty to consider and only 1 kidney to sell ;D. There's always blood donation too, 5 bucks and a glass of orange juice every time. Leaves you a bit woozy and pasty though ::).........
Bottom line you've come to the right place to get solid input that'll help you get it sorted out. Welcome and good luck with your project.
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Next on my list would be intake and carb. I guess I must have missed the Performer vs. Performer RPM stuff, but at the risk of offending someone (not sure who LOL!), I think you'd be wasting your money on the Performer; go with the Performer RPM, and maybe a 700 or 750 double pumper Holley carb.
LOL!
Might as well stir the pot a little!
Jay you didn't miss anything, just some PMs back and forth between Marc and I. I jokingly said that I wouldn't respond to a PM until he put a real manifold on his 445 :)
The the original poster, I like the Performer RPM intake, not the Performer it just doesn't breathe in my experience, even on a mild 390, but the Streetmaster/Street Dominators are a good match for you as well. I also agree that you'd like a 3.50 or higher gear for a dramatic change in torque, but depending on tires size anything above 3.50 can get a little buzzy on the highway.
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Welcome to the forum , keep your kidney , start with 3.50 s and then do a cam , intake and carb and the FPA s fitment and clearance is awsome .. Bud down the line a tremec 5 spd
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Thank you everyone for your feedback. This is my first dive into performance modifications on a mustang. Most of my efforts to this point have been stock concourse restoration. Here is a picture of my 72 Mach 1 just to share. Long story behind this car, but I have had it for 30+ years as it was my first car bought at age 15. This car was a labor of sentimental value and nothing sexy for performance. Stock H code 351 2V with an FMX and 2:75 gearing. 1 of 165 produced in 72 with the color and trim options.
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Nice rides man!
On the 67 I concur with most here and would go with the FPAs, excellent service after the sale as well.
On the gears? Meh, whatever you want. Will 3.50s wake up that 390s acceleration? Oh yeah. Will they bite your wallet a little? Oh yeah.
If you're going to do a lot of highway cruising you may consider a 5 speed in the future. Invisible from the outside but pays big dividends on the highway.
On the intake, lots of choices out there and most can be found used and in decent shape. I would start by checking the classifieds here, then on that other forum and then places like Craig's List and evil bay.
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
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NICE , very cool cars .. Bud
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Consistent with your stated purpose and performance desires, the Comp 268 should be an excellent choice. I went with an XE 256 in my +30 390 and, while pleased with the result, have a suspicion that the 268 would have left me with an even bigger smile on my face with no drivability penalty. You will be VERY happy with the FPA headers -- there is no doubt they are your best option. Good luck!
(Nice looking 72 BTW)
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Lunati cams has the voodoo cam line , and you may want to look at the 701 and 702 part # s those are the last three numbers of each one .. Bud
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Hi Brian, the guys here will give you great advice. I like the color on the 67 too. I talked to Stan a couple of time prior to buying the FPA’s. Mine came with the flanges for the CJ bolt pattern, cause I want to upgrade to the Edelbrock heads at some point. Stan had a good handle on which steering racks would fit with the headers also.
I went with a Borgeson power steering gear box over a rack. After all the research, I liked the Total Control Products power rack the best. But, I couldn’t justify the price for the rack and the recommended power steering pump kit. Had to dimple one spot on the back tube to gain clearance for the headers and the Borgeson box. Third hand information from Stan to me to you is there will be tweeking to the 4 speed clutch linkage.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t655/JPDixon5/Mustang/FPA%20Headers/abc005_zpsbe1a472a.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/JPDixon5/media/Mustang/FPA%20Headers/abc005_zpsbe1a472a.jpg.html)
You can put that kidney back on the market and upgrade to a 5 speed and more gear. The TKO 600 fits in my car with no carving on the floor boards. The kit from Modern Driveline brings the shifter up in the factory hole nicely. My factory console should fit perfectly. It will use the hydraulic actuator for the clutch.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t655/JPDixon5/Mustang/Trans%20Test%20Fit/IMG_5992_zps611d1e97.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/JPDixon5/media/Mustang/Trans%20Test%20Fit/IMG_5992_zps611d1e97.jpg.html)
If you click on the pic, you should end up in my photo bucket account to see more of the headers and transmission test fits.
Welcome to the site. :)
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Thank you all for the continued feedback. I can definitly say I have received a warm welcome from the group and very informative feedback. John the pictures are great. I can see my membership here will be fruitfull, potentially expensive with everyones great ideas, but fruitfull. It will definitly be baby steps for the short term. My oldest will be going off to college this year so the car account will see fewer deposits. My goal was to have the 72 done by the 50th and before my daughter went off to school. The Mrs. gave me some slack to meet that goal, but the rope is short now that tuition bills will be comng in. Maybe, just maybe I can celebrate here graduation in 4'ish years with a 5 speed. Thank you again everyone.
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good luck again , and understand the 50 part and daughter in college lol Bud
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I put the 268H in my .030 over 390 and could not be happier. FPA Headers, freshened stock GT heads, Streetmaster intake, Holley750DP and MSD "ready to run dizzy". I also run with a 3.00 open rear and it's great for cruising longer distances. Advise on this fourm was a great help for me as well. Keep up the great job guys!
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I'm with the RPM manifold crowd also. I would use the Borgeson steering gear and use the money saved to put a hydraulic roller cam in it rather than a flat lifter. I have a favorite for 390-ish power brake apps. A mild hydro roller and a set of Morel lifters will be trouble free and no worries of lobe failure........ever. JMO. FPA sounds right. Take a look at MSD 5-series boxes. I like a curved Duraspark (steel gear if hydro roller) and the MSD 5 for your app. I'm an acceleration kind of guy, but if you plan to road drive the car, leave the 3:00 in it. 70 mph with a 3.50 will buzz it pretty good. I'm not sure that more carb will be a winner unless you do put the gears in it. The 600 carb will do fine with the 3:00 gear and a 5500 rpm peak. A 750 would be better up top, but might not drive around as nice as the 600.