FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: LuxurySportCoupe on July 13, 2014, 05:57:51 PM
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Does anyone have experience with the SSBC 4 piston disc brake conversion for galaxies? I'm definitely going with this kit, but I can't seem to find consistent answers on what actually comes with the kit. Do I need to order a proportioning valve separately? If the kit does come with one, is it a junction block/prop valve in one, or do I need to order one of those as well? I'm staying with manual brakes, so the master that is in the kit should work fine. If any of you guys have any experience or installation tips for me, I'd appreciate it as well. Thanks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a152/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a152/overview/)
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Does anyone have experience with the SSBC 4 piston disc brake conversion for galaxies? I'm definitely going with this kit, but I can't seem to find consistent answers on what actually comes with the kit. Do I need to order a proportioning valve separately? If the kit does come with one, is it a junction block/prop valve in one, or do I need to order one of those as well? I'm staying with manual brakes, so the master that is in the kit should work fine. If any of you guys have any experience or installation tips for me, I'd appreciate it as well. Thanks.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a152/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a152/overview/)
The pictures shows an inline proportioning valve, it does not show a junction block. In all the kits the mustang kits (not galaxie) that I have installed that is what you get.
Usually the original junction block is used. The instructions show you how to plumb it. SSBC is pretty good about giving everything you need to convert.
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I bought one of those kits for my 64 Gal when I first got it, and it did come with everything needed except for the junction block. I ended up making my own because I added a line lock anyway.
I was surprised at how heavy the parts were for that kit. I didn't save any weight at all over the drum brake setup that it replaced. Car stopped a lot better, though...
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Thanks for the info guys. I don't usually put too much faith in the pictures, because most of the time they are just stock photos anyway. And Jay, summit shows another version with aluminum calipers, but it's backordered and I'm not sure how much weight it would save over the regular calipers. Thanks again.
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Aluminum calipers are lighter but more hassle when it comes time for pads. I try to use off the shelf parts to make my life easier, I found a company that uses late mustang parts for their conversions. These are lighter and easier had parts but require 16" wheels to make it happen.
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Jay, do you have any install pics from when you had this kit? I feel kinda dumb asking, but I'm trying to figure out the orientation of the caliper brackets.
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Sorry, I don't have any. I was trying to remember how the calipers mounted, in front of the wheel centerline or behind, but I'm not sure about that either. It's been a few years...
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I got it figured out. The instructions say to mount the caliper ahead of the wheel centerline, but I read somewhere that if you flipped the brackets left to right, you could mount them behind the wheel centerline. This would allow me to keep the front sway bar. But it appears that the spindle is thicker on the towards the rear of the car, not allowing me to do the bracket flip, and that's where I was getting confused. Sway bar delete it is I guess. Thanks Jay.
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On mine i'm running Drop'em & stop'ems spindles 1.5" drop spindles with 4 piston wilwoods
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Yikes I don't know where you came up with Alum Calipers are more of a hassle but if you notice production cars for the last 15 years all pretty much use alum calipers by PBR. They also make the calipers for Baer and the ones on Mustang Cobras. They swap pads in minutes. I can't believe anyone even offers iron calipers today
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2X to what Jay said about weight. Already had Baer's 13.6 rotors with the PBR's on the front of my '70 Stang. Aluminum hat, bolt-on lightweight steel rotors, 16" wheels required. A really light and great stopping set-up.
Then, I got SSBC's 9" Ford rear kit with the parking brake . Calipers are off a Lincoln IIRC. Rotors and calipers (steel one-piece) weighed a TON! Sorry for some years now I didn't return same and get Baer's lightweight rear disc kit as well but it was about $200 more.
Live and learn as I could have saved an easy 40 lbs. of unsprung weight off the back end. That said, unless you really need your ride to lose weight, the cheaper SSBC kit does work fine.
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I've done the SSBC kit twice. All though on Fairlanes.
Great kit.
I have even tested the pressures and they came in as spec'd by SSBC.
Remember NO BOOSTER. Push Hard! ::)
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On the aluminum vs iron or steel caliper question, just for the heck of it I checked the Wilwood site: http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-13653-R&year=1963&make=Ford&model=Galaxie&option=All.
They show an alum caliper in the Classic Series that fits a '63 Gal... 0.18" increase in track on each side, but that will usually not be a big deal.
I'm going to think seriously about that setup for mine.
Bruce