FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: cjshaker on June 17, 2014, 09:14:19 PM
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Does anybody still make the tubular shift rods for the toploader? And if they are available, do they pose any interference problems? I haven't been able to find any anywhere, except for custom made jobs. I'll make them if I have to, but I'm wondering why Ford made them so oddly bent if they didn't need to be. My engine and tranny is out so I can't check and see what any issues there may be.
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I think it has more to do with the shifter than the trans.
My recent no so stock top loader build which is the same size on the outside for the most part
can handle some pretty robust straight rods and lots of room in the tunnel. Granted it is a Fairlane.
My shifter is quite large and high mount though.
With a small shifter and low mount as was stock, it will take some fancy little fasteners to get them to fit. See "home made"
My aluminum rods are just bar stock drilled and tapped left and right and off the shelf rod ends.
If your willing to make a shifter change, that will open up lots of possibilities.
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Howie, I saved the link to your build and some detailed pictures of others on the feeling that I would be making a set, which looks to be the case. You did a nice job. I'll be keeping the Hurst Comp Plus shifter and I remember the button head bolts required for clearance. I'll have to wait till it's in the car I guess. Thanks.
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Maybe I'm missing something here, but I went to Hurst for mine. I told them I have a RUG-AK and they told me which mounting plate and shift rods to order. Of Course mine went on a 59 T-bird through the console, and the tunnel had room.
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/catalog/
Dave J
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Maybe I'm missing something here, but I went to Hurst for mine.
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/catalog/
Dave J
David, I went to their sight but did not see them listed. They only show the standard rods for various Ford Toploader set-ups.
http://www.hurst-shifters.com/products/3913180-manual-shifter-competition-plus/?mk=&yr=&md=&sm=&e=
Here are the tubular rods I was talking about...
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/Transmission004.jpg) (http://s43.photobucket.com/user/cjshaker/media/Transmission004.jpg.html)
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oooooh, OK. Yeah those tubular rods are new to this rookie. You might try calling them, they were super helpful back when I called looking for my hardware. Maybe they have a source.
Good luck!
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One way is to use chrome moly tubes with welded in thread inserts each end to fit the 3/8" NF left and right heims. Aluminum tube the size to thread to 3/8" NF was something i couldn't get around here. I did like Howie drilling the ends of 1/2" aluminum round bar.
No reason for the reverse to need heims, that can be a solid rod with bushings and spring clips.
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Thanks Howie and Tom. Looks like fabricating is what I'll be doing then. Should save me some money anyway.
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I built my own.
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/linkage%20001.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/linkage%20002.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/linkage%20003.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/linkage%20004.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/linkage%20005.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/linkage%20006.jpg)
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Doug, your linkage build was one of the ones I came across during a Google search. I saved it for a reference in building mine. Especially because it described the button head bolts needed to clear the levers. But I don't recall seeing why you have a slip collar on the reverse rod. What is that for?
Nice job by the way.
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Good Looking TL Doug. 8)
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I used button head bolts and the thin aircraft nuts. Before changing that it would hang up in reverse and i'd have to jack the car up and yank the rod past the other one. Quite embarassing when blocking the pit aisle and wearing a helmet doing that.
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Doug, your linkage build was one of the ones I came across during a Google search. I saved it for a reference in building mine. Especially because it described the button head bolts needed to clear the levers. But I don't recall seeing why you have a slip collar on the reverse rod. What is that for?
Nice job by the way.
I welded a "flag" to one half, it actuates the reverse switch.
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I used button head bolts and the thin aircraft nuts. Before changing that it would hang up in reverse and i'd have to jack the car up and yank the rod past the other one. Quite embarassing when blocking the pit aisle and wearing a helmet doing that.
I too switched to the thinner aircraft style nuts.