FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: 65er on May 24, 2014, 02:52:00 PM
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Continuing from this thread http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=579.0 with the installation of the 458 stroker Blair built.
I had planned on staying after work to start the swap but I was feeling pretty puny by the end of my shift (at 11:30 PM) so I went for a night's sleep instead. Made it back up to the shop around 9 this morning and worked on plumbing while the car cooled off. I got a little "before" video to capture the sound and responsiveness of the long rod 390.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/th_MVI_2201_zps5b3f7cff.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/MVI_2201_zps5b3f7cff.mp4)
and some still photos
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2217_zps4b3f9304.jpg)
I still hadn't worked out the details on the fuel system but it wasn't hard to see that with the hoses I'm using, the traditional fuel log wasn't going to work. After a bit of head scratching I came up with this little guy...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2237_zps0dbd346a.jpg)
I'll cut the fuel pump to fuel block hose to length after I have the AC and power steering pumps mounted. I'll also come up with a mounting bracket after everything is situated.
After cooling a bit and letting the water out of the radiator, I brought the car in and got the hood off so it can cool some more. Hate working on a hot engine!! Here's my one-man hood technique. I think most people would be surprised at how thin the 65 Galaxie sheet metal really is.
Protect the windshield and prop the hood up...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2228_zpsf1815a4a.jpg)
take out the forward bolts, then the rear bolts and let it slide back to the windshield. careful careful...
Take out the prop and lay the hood down...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2229_zps5d013fd9.jpg)
Then put it on a cart and roll it to a safe place!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2230_zps5ee25369.jpg)
Pizza break is over, back to work now!
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Wish my garage looked like that. ;D
We have similar one man hood technique.
Congrats on the engine. That thing is freakin' awesome.
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Let the fun begin.....I see a OMAX water jet sitting in the shop...great for making parts on when the chiefs aren't watching......Cory
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Let the fun begin.....I see a OMAX water jet sitting in the shop...great for making parts on when the chiefs aren't watching......Cory
Yep! How about a nice heavy duty alternator bracket...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2252_zps790a90a7.jpg)
Next waterjet project will probably be a throttle cable bracket. I'll have to figure that one out once the engine is in place.
Continuing on, I got the car up on jackstands so I can get under it and so it doesn't move around when the engine weight goes on and off of it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2245_zps9c90ceca.jpg)
and proceeded to take a whole bunch of pieces off...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2265_zps03bf7f20.jpg)
Wire + can = awesome in case you didn't already know...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2248_zps44a4238e.jpg)
You know what they say, if you're not careful you'll learn something new every day.
Today I learned that taking the engine out of a Galaxie with a manual transmission is WAY more work than taking it out of a Galaxie with an automatic.
After many trips around and under the car I found my major pain in the rear. Bellhousing won't clear the drag link. I ended up pulling the idler so the link could come down a bit but still had problems with the starter and clutch fork.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2257_zps1a871d2a.jpg)
I ended up taking the starter out and the bellhousing off the engine. Would have been a bit easier to do that in the first place. Learning...
Finally did get it out of there. How high ya want it? Everybody should have a forklift for this. Nice that some stuff does go well on a project, haha.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2258_zps9186c770.jpg)
Best worklight ever IMO. Gotta love some daylight under the car and almost no heat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2264_zpsc2aa9b5a.jpg)
There they are, Robert and Bobby. Bobby's the outgoing one. Er, incomming. Just kidding, they don't have names ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2261_zps60b1b881.jpg)
Guess breaktime's over again...
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Hey Wade,
Here's motivation for you.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rhBYPMTNfA
Pics attached below.
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I'm pretty motivated already John, but I'm not complaining =)
Really nice stuff there! LOVE the headers. MAN!
Hey, is that an air conditioning hose I see tucked in amongst the heater hoses? If it is, can I see some pics of your AC system? Pump mounting in particular
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John in your signature:
67 Fairlane GT - 390/451 stroker - 654HP / 552TQ
You need to start a thread on THAT! I'm curious how that got put together.
Thanks!
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I'Hey, is that an air conditioning hose I see tucked in amongst the heater hoses? If it is, can I see some pics of your AC system? Pump mounting in particular
It's an aftermarket air conditioning system. My wagon was a non-air car, but since it's just a cruiser, I did a Vintage air kit. Not sure my my AC pump mounting is going to help you. Mine is mounted on the bottom on the passenger side.
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John in your signature:
67 Fairlane GT - 390/451 stroker - 654HP / 552TQ
You need to start a thread on THAT! I'm curious how that got put together.
Thanks!
Don't want to steal from Wade's thread, but you can see the details here-
http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1310786368/DYNO+RESULTS++-+390+stroker
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It's an aftermarket air conditioning system. My wagon was a non-air car, but since it's just a cruiser, I did a Vintage air kit. Not sure my my AC pump mounting is going to help you. Mine is mounted on the bottom on the passenger side.
That's what I was thinking. I don't really care for they way the old setup looks, would rather have the compressor down low and out of sight. I'd need some hoses and a Sanden compressor for sure.
Slow going today. I surfaced the flywheel last night. On the milling machine since I didn't have any handy fixturing to chuck it up on the lathe.
Cleaned up at .012" depth
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2267_zpsbbfaf144.jpg)
After putting a hole in the block plate to accommodate an oil gallery plug I got the flywheel mounted and dialed in the bell housing. .010 out, UGH!!
With no pin puller handy they easy way out was a bit different... as usual, lol
I made a spacer ring with .010 offset between the inner and outer diameters to replace the stock one that came with the transmission.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2276_zps24192e59.jpg)
Got the bell dialed in within .003 total runout now. That's about half what I had before. I'm calling it good!
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Wow, that's a lot of screwing around for 7 thousandths! Nice work though; so nice to have CNC handy... ;D
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Wow, that's a lot of screwing around for 7 thousandths! Nice work though; so nice to have CNC handy... ;D
Nah, it's not really too bad. Only took me maybe 45 minutes to program, setup and run it. Pulling the dowel pins out of the block would have been more work for me with the tools I have around. The TKO install instructions allowed I think .005 misalignment and at .020 TIR I had to fix it. ...actually more than .007". It went from .020 to .003 TIR so it's only .0015 misalignment now. In theory right? No telling how much stuff warps when it's all torqued down, now well it repeats when taken apart and put back together etc. Should run alright though I guess ;)
So far I've got the bell housing mounted on the tranny with the offset spacer, got the clutch and pressure plate mounted on the flywheel and I cleaned up the headers and repainted them. Dang, I wish I still had access to a working sandblaster. Best I could do quickly was going over them with a scotchbrite pad.
This Rust-oleum seems to be some kind of good stuff at least up top where it never gets wet. Had some more rusty stuff down at the collectors. These headers have been on nearly three years I think. This is the first time I've messed with the paint on them since they went in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2286_zps534bf4c3.jpg)
Also had to do a little port work or gasket matching to do on the headers. You can see how close the header flange would be to blowing out if I took it all the way to the line. I couldn't nearly go as far as I needed but I took what I could while keeping in mind I need some gasket sealing surface left and the tube to flange welds are at the sealing surface. I actually did get through the weld on one tube but it looked like it was just butted up in place and never properly welded anyway. I am really hoping my gasket + some copper RTV will keep the leaks to a minimum. Wishful thinking probably...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2280_zps4ea74e42.jpg)
New custom headers will go on the future upgrade list. I'll get to that after my wounded wallet recovers from the beating it's taken lately! $500 for new glasses and nearly $2000 to have the clutch replaced in my sons HHR, ouchies. Sounds like my air conditioner pump is on it's way out too and Summer is coming up fast.
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Skip the gaskets on the headers and use silicone only
I have no leaks since i stoped using gaskets
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I would be tempted but I think I need the gasket to help hold the silicone in place and maybe bridge a little gap here and there. The exhaust ports are size extra large. Intended for custom headers, I'm sure. Kind of hard getting a good pic with the camera all upside-down and stuff..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2297_zpsbf7e63a4.jpg)
Oh hey, it's stuffed and mounted now! I just need to hook up... everything. haha
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2296_zpsca30ba51.jpg)
Sure hope I'll be able to close the hood. I measured everything pretty careful and it looked like it's going to be ok.
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Looking good, Wade. If the hood won't close - well, you needed a hood scoop anyway ;D
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Maybe Jay, but I never wanted a scoop on this car. I might have some options though. I have a fair amount of clearance between the oil pan and crossmember, I might be able to drop the engine another 1/2" but that would be a project. Or I might be able to notch out some hood bracing, that would be a bit easier. Or easiest of all, but last choice would be to trim or remove the carb spacers. That would be a last resort though, and would have to consult with Blair before fooling with the carb setup.
Last night I stayed up here pretty late, like 3:30. I'm back not at 10:00 and man am I tired! I did get a bunch of important stuff done though, including putting in my whole fuel line system. Starts with a nice filter back by the tank...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2304_zpse97721e5.jpg)
Probably could have left my tank to filter loop a little longer but it doesn't appear to want to kink. Will keep an eye on it.
I used Aeroquip PTFE hose and steel hose ends to fit. From all the stuff I'd read online I was expecting some hard and frustrating work doing the hose ends, but this stuff is great. Takes a little effort to seat the fitting into the tube, but it all went together fairly easy.
I ran the new line right beside the old one.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2302_zps07baf484.jpg)
Up under the hood, I ran it right through the original clamps where the old line went.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2305_zps9409db3a.jpg)
I ended up getting everything done under the car and let it back down off the jackstands. It's all under the hood stuff from here on out. Once I have the AC and power steering pumps back in place I'll finish that last hose end at the fuel pump. Last project will be to devise some sort of throttle cable bracket, then we'll see what's up with the hood. =)
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I shoulda called it the big WEEKEND, it's not over yet...
I got all the stuff assembled onto the front of the engine. Almost cross threaded a bolt going into the aluminum water pump so I backed up and made studs for all the bolt holes going into the waterpump. That worked out pretty nice, made the assembly of those parts a little easier than running bolts through while trying to hold stuff in the right place. Got the radiator back on place and hooked up, then filled it up real slow and careful. Don't know how many of you guys might know or remember but I toasted my first FE rebuild while doing the cam break in. I had filled the radiator and left the cap off a while and did some other stuff. When I came back, the water level hadn't gone down so I figured we were good. Wrong! The block never burped and it was apparently bone dry. Ever since than, I leave the top heater hose disconnected and pop it on when water runs out of the fitting on top of the manifold. I don't have a heater hose on this one right now, but I took out my water temp sensor to accomplish the same thing. I still have that original cam and and lifters still in excellent condition by the way ;)
Made my final fuel line running from the pump to the fuel block. Had a great idea, why not use the vacuum brake bleeder to prime the fuel line?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2313_zps86750075.jpg)
Worked pretty good! Took about 30 seconds and only spilled a couple drops of gas in the process. Now I know she'll have gas within seconds when I hit the key.
Where to mount the coil? It'll probably end up on the fender, but there are open bolt holes on top of the AC compressor so I stuck it there for now...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2316_zpsaedcb9c5.jpg)
Only thing left now is to work out the throttle linkage. I'll have to extend the end of the cable by about 6" and make a bracket to mount the cable sheath
Here you can see my grubby paw on the right side holding the cable about where it needs to end up. The linkage it needs to hit is there at the left edge of the pic. Needs to go to the hole on the bottom of that arm.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2309_zpsac5039dd.jpg)
One more thing, the hood! Well crap, it hits. But not by much, I can actually close the hood. It just raises up the back by about 3/8". I already tried taking the coil out but that's not what's hitting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2319_zps2b331741.jpg)
Pretty sure I"ll just cut some bracing out to clear and it'll be done. That'll be a project for next weekend! Besides, I used up my cutoff wheels cutting braided hoses and trimming brackets. The Edelbrock waterpump isn't exactly the same as the stock cast iron one. The bolts are in the right place but one of the brackets wouldn't fit over the casting. No pic of that one, sorry. I know you were dying to see my chopped up bracket too! Just kidding, I cut it neatly, it looks pretty much stock.
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Well there's one end of the cable, gonna have to think about the other end for a minute...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2324_zps4e2ca92e.jpg)
Next post should be the video =)
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Great job Wade. I'm always impressed by what some people can get done on a long weekend. I truly admire the effort on a daily driver. When I was younger and had even less money than I do now, I used to stay up all night fixing my driver so I could go to work in the morning. Then I bought an extra junker for when the first junker broke down. Now I own a herd of junkers, but they USUALLY don't break down at the same time ;D Anyway, back to your Gal. Where's the video of the smokey burnout and the greasy black marks on the pavement? 8) Later, Travis
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How much mismatch did you end up with on the header ports? Did you grind the header openings to remove some blockage? The exhaust ports on the heads look wicked.
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How much mismatch did you end up with on the header ports? Did you grind the header openings to remove some blockage? The exhaust ports on the heads look wicked.
Quite a mismatch, about 1/8-3/16" I worked on them to the limits of what I felt I could safely grind away. Probably got carried away on one tube.Great job Wade. I'm always impressed by what some people can get done on a long weekend. I truly admire the effort on a daily driver. When I was younger and had even less money than I do now, I used to stay up all night fixing my driver so I could go to work in the morning. Then I bought an extra junker for when the first junker broke down. Now I own a herd of junkers, but they USUALLY don't break down at the same time ;D Anyway, back to your Gal. Where's the video of the smokey burnout and the greasy black marks on the pavement? 8) Later, Travis
No burnouts for a week or so! Gotta be nice to my new clutch for a while. By the way, that new clutch is a dream compared to the old one. I had something wrong in there before. I'm not sure if it was my pilot bearing or what, it was real chattery and I could also feel something shaking whenever I'd rest my foot on the clutch pedal (to feel it! I don't drive like that, lol). It's slick as snot now.
So yep, she is running! Got a serious exhaust leak that's going to have to wait a week or two until I'm ready to tackle another project. Also it hadn't warmed up yet so no gunning it on this video, I've just got the idle for now. No idea what's going on with the sound in the video while I was in front but at least it comes through ok from the rear of the car.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/th_MVI_2327_zps6ed17668.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/MVI_2327_zps6ed17668.mp4)
Even idling, I can already feel the power. Those lumps in the idle actually shake the car a bit! It's got some serious pop for sure. I'm gonna have to be pretty careful while I learn to drive this beast, it's a serious step up from where I've been.
Off to clean up the shop. This should be good for another couple hours, hah
Edit... I'll try to get a better video tomorrow in the daylight!
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Glad you got it going! Looks like you pretty well got 'er whooped. I am waiting to hear how it drives out, compared to the milder 390. If you need me, give me a holler.
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Well done Wade! Your attention to detail shows all over the ol' Gal. And a big hell yea to Blair and his team also. Sounds good!
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Way to go Wade!
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Did I read that gauge right? Was that over 14" of vacuum? And at about 850rpm idle? Those are great numbers for the power output. A very well thought out package.
You guys with your access to half million dollar machines who can whip out awesome custom parts in a matter of minutes make me jealous. It would have taken me a whole day just to make that cable bracket....whittling with my pocket knife ;D
I think I'd raise the back of that hood up till you get it sorted out. No sense in rubbing/gouging that nice air cleaner lid (or possibly denting the topside of your hood). I like your ingenuity in fabrication also. That's tough for a lot of people but you whip out good ideas like it's nothing. You really busted your butt this weekend. An engine change is not exactly easy with one person. Been there and done that many times, but never under the gun of a 3 day schedule. Now you'll need a vacation from your vacation...lol
Can't wait to hear how it runs and behaves. Thanks for the great posts, Wade.
edit: And the "clearancing" needed on the webbing of the Edelbrock water pumps for the alternator brackets is a common thing. I've had to do it on every one I've used.
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Did I read that gauge right? Was that over 14" of vacuum? And at about 850rpm idle? Those are great numbers for the power output. A very well thought out package.
Almost right Doug, actually that's the O2 sensor gauge, not vacuum. Reading right at 13.0 in the video. I was really shooting for the tach which was 850 or so like you said.
Probably have some tuning issues and will get with Blair to get it all sorted out. Of course we were aware all along that tuning for a car and for a dyno are two different things and since Blair didn't happen to have my car at the time I guess they dyno was next best choice ;)
I'm definitely going to have to do something about the header leaks though. Maybe I can make some adapter plates out of that scrap 1/8" stainless sheet we have laying around.
I'll be hollering at you in the AM Blair, we'll get her sorted out. Thanks much for your support through the whole process.
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Careful with that exhaust leak Wade. You don't want to over heat a valve and wound your new bullet.
Great job.
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Wade, don't know if this'll help but here goes. My FE is in a Cobra and as such has a lot of weight on the headers supporting the side pipes and such. When I first built it I had header leaks on about a weekly basis and have tried all manner of header gaskets including the "none with RTV" trick. So far what's held best for me are the asbestose/perforated steel shim type that come with rebuild gasket kits and are meant for manifolds. I tried these initially because I'd blown another set of header gaskets and didn't want to wait around for Summit to send more. And whataya know? They worked like gangbusters and have ever since. I also slot all the bolt holes (tin snips) so that they can be slid into place after all of the header bolts are threaded.
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Wade, great engine
Any thought about cutting down your carb spacers by 1/2 inch? May steal some plenum volume, but an engine that fits is always nice.
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I've thought about it but didn't want to mess with what Blair had put together for me. I'll see if the master approves before I go chopping anything up. I agree, fitting is a good thing =)
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I got the thumbs up for trimming the spacers. I'm sure it sounds like I'm being overly worried about minor stuff but Blair has put a lot of thought into this setup. I wanted to be sure I wasn't messing with a critical feature before taking a little off the top. Even if it doesn't clear the hood completely, it'll allow for less trimming on the hood bracing. I'm feeling pretty good about getting her tucked in.
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Good idea to check first.
I do hope you have a rather substantial chain or turnbuckle brace on the driver's side of the engine to prevent engine torque or worse a broken motor mount from whacking the hood. Had a pal with a hot 396 Chevelle who broke the mount, leading to a nice dent on the hood where the carb's stud hit the bottom side of the hood. Ouch!
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I got the thumbs up for trimming the spacers. I'm sure it sounds like I'm being overly worried about minor stuff but Blair has put a lot of thought into this setup. I wanted to be sure I wasn't messing with a critical feature before taking a little off the top. Even if it doesn't clear the hood completely, it'll allow for less trimming on the hood bracing. I'm feeling pretty good about getting her tucked in.
Awesome, that's how I'd do it. How's it running, been a while since an update!
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*shakes Wade*
Wheres the freaking burnout video!!!!
hehe
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I've still got a few issues to work out before I get too crazy with it. I knew I wasn't exactly a super tuner guy but this has been a very humbling deal so far. Blair has had the patience of a saint though and with some hand-holding we've been making some good progress.
Also have had random crap happening (car and otherwise) that has put me behind the eight ball a bit lately.
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I was just messing man. Take your time, do it all right. Plus it's just a car.
I (and probably others) are just super excited for ya.
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I was just messing man. Take your time, do it all right. Plus it's just a car.
I (and probably others) are just super excited for ya.
Ditto all of that.
Dynos are great for tuning for wide open throttle but do little in the way of tuning for daily use characteristics. Part throttle, tip-in, acceleration etc. takes some patience. You'll get it all worked out in time.
Im still looking at that throttle cable bracket. It's pretty darn cool. You should market that and sell exclusively to FE Power Forums members :)
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I could probably make you a cable bracket if you need it Doug, but I wouldn't want to do anything businesslike under my employers roof =)
I made some progress on my air cleaner clearance deal today. I cut the filter base on both sides, so it sits closer to the carbs, and so the shelf where the filter sits is thinner. Shaved .28" off the height and now I'm not sure if it's hitting or not. Closed the hood and the windshield edge of it is still raised up a bit but I can push it down and it stays. Might just need a little adjustment at this point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/WP_000838_zpsaf2998b2.jpg)
pockets on the bottom to clear the needle and seat adjustment screws...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/WP_000849_zps04179ade.jpg)
Moved my coil over onto the inner fender too since I discovered that it also had been in contact with the hood. That probably contributed to the coil failing the other day leaving me stranded halfway to work. Had to push the car out of the road into a Sonic parking lot, thank God someone ran out and helped push. After I determined the problem was a lack of fire to the plugs I got a friend from work pick me up and run me to the parts store. Fortunately it was the coil and not the MSD box... But it looks a lot better there than on top of the AC pump, and it's away from the heat and vibration which can only be a good thing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/WP_000854_zps6b7b70c0.jpg)
Also the big serious holdup I had was trash in the carbs. I had cut all the braided hose with an abrasive wheel and apparently that abraded stuff was everywhere in spite of me blowing the lines out with the shop air. Not good enough apparently! Having the filter mounted next to the gas tank didn't help either since all the trash was after the filter. I rearranged the whole darn thing on Friday and got the filter mounted after the pump and also took all the short hoses and cleaned them out good by using a wire to pull cotton rags through them and then blowing them out again after. After getting all the lines and fuel log as clean as I possibly could I tore down all the carbs and cleaned them out too. Not surprisingly seems MUCH happier now. Having all that trash in there put way too much gas in the motor so I also changed the oil and plugs. They both were bad in need of a change.
I'm going to suggest you guys never use an abrasive wheel on those braided hoses! Get a real hose cutter instead or borrow one if you can...
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We cut them all the time with abrasive wheels at work.
we just blow the lines out really well.
Also, rung a few rounds of electrical tape over the area to be cut. A suprising amount of stuff sticks to it and it also keeps everything together and not frayed
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I believe you are about to whip it now! I just does not take very much material to really screw with a needle and seat........and then it pours down the fuel..........If it is just seeping, it fills the engine with gas for a while kinda undetected until it becomes apparent, and by then, like you said, you need needle, plugs, and an oil change. You did it right. Nice work on the air cleaner also.........
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Although I don't like using them long term, those lil screens that go into the inlet side of the carb are really nice to use after you've cleaned a fuel tank or run new lines, etc. I keep a bunch in my "carb parts bucket" just for such an event.... food for thought in the future.
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I used an abrasive cutoff wheel to cut AN lines a few times and had exactly the same issue as you, Wade. Especially with longer lines it is difficult to blow them out and get all the dust and crap from the cutoff wheel out. I've gone back to wrapping the line in duct tape and cutting it with a hacksaw, then trimming any stray stainless steel wires with a side cutter pliers. Seems to be a lot cleaner, and no more junk left in the lines.
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I've found that a masonry chisel on an anvil, and a BFH....one good whack and I get a clean cut with very little fraying.
Wade - got my Fairlane back together and running with my BP Pro-port heads. Just need to set the timing tonight and a few other adjustments. Looks like my headers are going to work for now.
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Enjoyed this thread, and the results. Hope you get everything to your satisfaction. Just a question. It has been a while since I had a 6V cleaner lid in my hands, but could you cut the OD of that top lid down to match the filter better, and gain the clearance from the bracing under the hood that you need? It looks like you could remove close to 1/2" off the lid and it would look like it would still fit the filter. Also, I radius the inside of those lower housings, and it helps with airflow transition into the carbs---no turbulence. Joe-JDC.
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I could cut the air cleaner back quite a ways before covering the filter element becomes a problem but it sure would ugly the thing up. Here you can see how the ribs go around the end and the witness mark where the hood has been hitting. Actually I'm pretty sure It's not hitting anymore since I had put some masking tape on that area of the air cleaner and the tape was undisturbed after driving a bit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2360_zps8b5dc935.jpg)
I'll probably be cutting some lines again once I come up with a plan for a neater layout. Here you can see the new filter and coil locations along with some pretty unruly looking plumbing =) hmm! never noticed that nasty sticker on the power steering pump til just now! Bye bye sticker...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v440/Wademeister/Galaxie/IMG_2361_zpsa2ed951f.jpg)
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Wade or Blair, are those FireWire plug wires with a chaffing sleeve put over the wire?
Some clay on the air cleaner top will give you the exact clearance that you have. And Wade, a hood hinge not dropping completely or being able to push down on it is a sign that it needs some lubrication. I'll bet a bit of oil or spray chain lube at the pivot points will make a big difference and not cause it to stay up.
Also, I radius the inside of those lower housings, and it helps with airflow transition into the carbs---no turbulence. Joe-JDC.
Dang, it's the little things (now running out to get my air cleaner lid for my 2x4 :)))
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Doug, that is the "sleeved" firewire. I did not shrink the rubber seals on, just in case Wade wanted to trim the wires to reroute in the car. Those are the universal set w/135 degree boots. I really like them. You can get them with or without the sleeves, but I figure they will last longer with the extra insulator. Most "Cup" cars run them, and they seek out the best endurance parts...........
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Yeah, those wires are bad to the bone, I like them a lot. I need to go ahead and shrink the sleeves on since the current lengths are fine, I'm not going to do any cutting.
Also Doug, good call on the hinge lube. The hood went up and down smooth before so I figured it was fine. Shot some spray lithium grease around all the pivot points and she's super free now. Does seem to be hitting just a tiny bit still so I'm going to have to round up that clay I have around here somewhere.
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A little nicer video here since I got the header leaks taken care of and got a few bugs worked out. I'm still going to fool with the idle some more. Currently it's idling off the center carb and the ends are nearly shut off. Blair had mentioned that it may idle better on all three so I'll write down my current settings and try it again with all three.
http://youtu.be/QdyDRExdRms
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Sounds good, Wade. Seems you should be able to get that idle down a tad with some fooling.
Seeing how you've transformed this car from the beginning has been really cool. You have a super fine cruiser there now. So what's next? ;D ;D
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What next??
Oh I don't know, how about replace the AC pump (sorta Mooo's at certain rpm, sound like a wallowed bushing or bearing) Smaller crankshaft pulley, cross flow radiator, electric fan(s), gear reduction starter, better headers and all around exhaust upgrade... Of course I can work on window seals and interior refurb any time amongst the other stuff =) Then after all that's done we can see about painting it again! AND I still think sometimes about going back to an automatic, sheeze...
I used to never see how anyone could spend $80-100K on a car. Well, I'm not getting there but I'm starting to see now how it can happen!
I'll be content to fool with the idle for the moment. ;)
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Yeah, what are you running, dual 2.25inch exhaust?
I'm no expert, but I'd think with the new engine you'd wanna bump it up to 3 inch.
I know your mind well Wade (cuz I think the same way)
Once you start driving it and get comfortable with it, you'll figure out something that just NEEDS to be addressed :P
Least we are never bored and without a project, only ever short of cash.
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What next??
I used to never see how anyone could spend $80-100K on a car. Well, I'm not getting there but I'm starting to see now how it can happen!
I'll be content to fool with the idle for the moment. ;)
Looks and sounds great Wade, nice work all around. I know exactly what you mean about how big bucks into a project could happen, so many cool ways to spend cash ;D.
Looks to me like it's time to drive and enjoy for a bit, recharge the batteries and then attack the next upgrade. I for one do not believe it ever ends, it just gets a little better... 8)