FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => FE Engine Dyno Results => Topic started by: cjshaker on October 08, 2026, 09:30:25 PM
-
After several years of curve balls, and a couple of bean balls being thrown at me by life, I finally got around to getting Blair to put this engine together and dynoed. The goal was a stout street/race engine that I could have fun with at the track and still do a Drag Week event if I decided to do so again. That meant dependability and durability was a priority. I also wanted something strong enough that I could easily up the ante, should I decide to do so in the future, which seems to be a constant with my Mach.
I spent an entire day at Blair's dynoing the engine, and after getting the A/F right with jetting, he worked his magic on the 660 carbs, not exactly known for their streetability. Watching someone who truly knows how to tune an engine, not just getting A/F right, but actually working the carbs in a staggered fashion to get each cylinder even and performing to its potential was a special treat. I've been around a fair number of dyno runs, even in competitions, and I can tell you that there are only a limited number of people who can tune like Blair. He picked up another 25+hp just by balancing the cylinder mixtures for each cylinder, and on a single plane Tunnel Wedge to boot. He also adjusted part throttle/load mixtures to get a smoother street engine, then worked the idle mixture to make for a much smoother and happier engine overall. It sounded like a different engine by the end of the day.
A huge thank you to Blair for putting this together for me, everything he taught me while I was there (again), and his great crew at his shop, who helped me fix a busted brake line that happened just as we were loading the engine, right before a 500 mile trip home. 10 minutes later and I would have been going 75mph on I-75, so the Big Guy upstairs was looking out for me.
Torque was flat as a pancake for 1500 RPM, and the HP nearly matched it. A 1.59 HP per CI is impressive. I've got some work ahead of myself to make the car ready for this engine. Luckily, I've already got 95% of everything I need, I just waited to match a fuel pump and system for the horsepower, and new 5 point harness so it wasn't dated out.
Engine specs....
Performance Summary:
Cubic Inches: 475
Peak Horsepower: 759 @ 6960
Peak Torque: 619 @ 5160
Engine Specifications:
Block: SOG Iron Block 4.35 Bore
Crankshaft: Crower 4.00 stroke, 2.00 rod journal
Connecting Rods: Crower
Pistons: CP, 11:1
Camshaft: Bullet custom solid roller
Lifters: Crower HIPPO solid roller
Cylinder heads: BP Pro Port
Rocker arms: T&D paired, custom offset, custom ratios
Pushrods: Manton 3/8 x .145
Distributor: Ford, vacuum advance removed, custom curve
Intake manifold: TFS Tunnel Wedge, worked and matched to Pro Ports
Carburetor: 2x Holley 660
Balancer: ATI Super Damper
Water Pump: In car a CVR pump and FEPower adapters will be used.
Video of dyno run:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07CjvUkG7r0&lc=Ugz0BL-p-fRlrnaOgjt4AaABAg
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYhR5dVK/20261005-091453.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vsq0g1Cc/20261005-123804-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
-
That’s great Doug. Should wake that Mach 1 right up. What are you doing with your top loader. I’m imagining there’s another upgrade happening.
-
That’s great Doug. Should wake that Mach 1 right up. What are you doing with your top loader. I’m imagining there’s another upgrade happening.
Joe, I put a Jerico DR4-4 with a Long shifter in it almost 8 years ago, the same time I switched to 4.30 gears. I will need to upgrade to a Sof-Lok clutch to get it to live though, but I also have plans of getting a G-Force sometime soon.
-
Nice piece!
-
That'll haul the mail!
-
I like the 11/1 cr, too!
-
Very nice, that will be fun. 4.00” stroke, small rod journal, it shouldn’t mind being upstairs. I’m with you on the tuning portion. Once to the floor, bump the key, and it’s idling smooth at 1,000 rpm exactly. The throttle response doesn’t even make sense to me. It reminds me of an old friend that raced the NASCAR northwest tour, a Braswel 390 cfm 4 barrel, so crisp. Not sure what you’re looking at in the fuel pump area, I went Magnafuel MP-4601. So, adjustable bypass, 10AN in and out, and the volume I wanted, then an adjustable 4 port regulator at the engine, so far very pleased.
-
Very nice ! Killer combo and not huge cubic inch. I can attest to Blair helping on the dyno, we had several issues when he helped me to dyno my engine , that he didn't build but offered to let me dyno there and he helped me a lot with cousin Johnny!
-
Wicked pump gas engine.
Might need more gear? How tall are the slicks?
Congrats!
-
Not sure what you’re looking at in the fuel pump area, I went Magnafuel MP-4601. So, adjustable bypass, 10AN in and out, and the volume I wanted, then an adjustable 4 port regulator at the engine, so far very pleased.
I already have an adjustable Aeromotive regulator, so just need to get a pump, which I haven't looked at yet. I'll probably go with size 10's also, just to know I won't be running out of fuel, along with a custom pickup to feed it.
Wicked pump gas engine.
Might need more gear? How tall are the slicks?
Congrats!
I have 28" slicks, and I don't want to go modifying my wheelwells, so likely stuck with that size, although I may be able to pick up a couple of inches if I relocate the rear. My Currie housing is narrowed 2" so I could try and keep things tucked in, and I have clearance with my springs with the backspacing on my rims, so that's not an issue. Currently have 4.30 gears, which puts me through the traps at 6500 with my current tires and combo. I may be able to keep that gearing with the goal of going through at 7500, but I'll just have to wait and see how it plays out.
-
great build for a killer car.how did the oil pan do on the dyno?as for oil presure.i am trying to decide for my build between that pan and the wide pan they offer.
-
great build for a killer car.how did the oil pan do on the dyno?as for oil presure.i am trying to decide for my build between that pan and the wide pan they offer.
Oil pressure was steady on the dyno with the deep Canton pan and screen tray. I'll be using an accumulator in the car, just to be safe. I stayed away from the wide pan because it limits the available space for header primary tubes. Things are already tight in a Mustang compartment.
-
Certainly should try it with existing cogs.
I go through traps @7050 with 4.86s and a 29” tire. The engine feels like its tongue is hanging out. So I swapped in some 4.57s but have not been to the track with them yet to see if they make a difference.
My peak hp is @6500.
-
Nice result Doug, Glad that you finaly got the engine ready to run
-
Not sure what you’re looking at in the fuel pump area, I went Magnafuel MP-4601. So, adjustable bypass, 10AN in and out, and the volume I wanted, then an adjustable 4 port regulator at the engine, so far very pleased.
Wicked pump gas engine.
Might need more gear? How tall are the slicks?
Congrats!
I have 28" slicks, and I don't want to go modifying my wheelwells, so likely stuck with that size, although I may be able to pick up a couple of inches if I relocate the rear. My Currie housing is narrowed 2" so I could try and keep things tucked in, and I have clearance with my springs with the backspacing on my rims, so that's not an issue. Currently have 4.30 gears, which puts me through the traps at 6500 with my current tires and combo. I may be able to keep that gearing with the goal of going through at 7500, but I'll just have to wait and see how it plays out.
I think 69’s are about the same as ‘67 & ‘68 wheel well openings. (Correct me if I’m wrong) I didn’t want to cut my wheel wells for larger tires so I started off with 29” bias slicks, they rubbed, too much tire growth. I went down to a 28” Hoosier and they clear fine but put me through the lights at 7600rpm with 4.86 gear. After 20 runs I took them off and went to a 30” radial from Hoosier the one with the smaller roll out. They are actually about 29.5 but don’t grow like the bias tires. They clear ok, have to be a little careful exiting the track sharply with any speed, so far so good no rub marks and dropped 300rpm.
-
I think 69’s are about the same as ‘67 & ‘68 wheel well openings. (Correct me if I’m wrong) I didn’t want to cut my wheel wells for larger tires so I started off with 29” bias slicks, they rubbed, too much tire growth. I went down to a 28” Hoosier and they clear fine but put me through the lights at 7600rpm with 4.86 gear. After 20 runs I took them off and went to a 30” radial from Hoosier the one with the smaller roll out. They are actually about 29.5 but don’t grow like the bias tires. They clear ok, have to be a little careful exiting the track sharply with any speed, so far so good no rub marks and dropped 300rpm.
Mike, it's a stick shift car, and as far as I know, radials don't play well with stick cars. Pretty sure I'll have to go to a 4.5* gear to get my desired trap RPM, so I have another spare rear to look forward to, but I was debating on stepping up to 35 spline axles anyway. ::)