FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: AZ428STCKER on August 18, 2026, 02:03:12 AM
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This has been a fun project. First time doing a coupe to fastback conversion, at first thought it an extremely daunting task, but once finished it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be... (except body work, that stuff is for the bees;) Had lots of hours and time into this car, it has been a learning process and extremely time consuming. The main body of the car is done and painted, still have to finish doors and fenders and hood. First time painter... Not as good as i would have hoped but not bad considering it was in a home built paint booth. Learned lots from that! haha
428 CJ NHRA stock eliminator legal engine will be going in. Engine is currently in the assembly process, will show attachments of engine parts as I go along.
Jerico 4 speed, mclead 7" dual disk clutch, 4.86 rear gear(dependent on track)
Started this project in 2021 here we are in 2026 chugging along trying to get it done.
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Here are the photos, hopefully they post and you can see them
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keep trying to post more pictures but website wont let me... anyone have any ideas on that?
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so did you buy one of the kits from Dynacorn? Looks like the car has been raced before Jim Kramer
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The car was a 67 coupe 289 auto with a vinal top, street car. I pulled the vinal top off and found all kinds of cancer on the roof, we had a wrecked 68 fastback but the roof was good so we decided to do a fastback conversion. we used the all the inner structure from the fast back, and did a little fabrication but not a lot. We made a mistake tho, we thought top body lines of the rear quarters were the same on coupe/fastback found out they are NOT the same haha. You can see in the pictures when put the fastback roof on, there is 1 1/2” gap between the top of the coupe fender and top of fastback fender. So I ordered brand new quarters that are dynacorn…but those and the trunk lid are the only body panels that are not original ford panels. We put in the 8 point roll bar after we cut the coupe roof off we figured it would be easier before we put the fastback roof on;) ha but no never raced, hopefully soon it will make some quarter mile passes. Thanks for the comment sir
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Coming along, looks like a lot of work. If you’re going to run A or B (even C) I would do a full cage while it’s apart. Remove everything from the chassis and interior that’s not needed and it should come in around 2,900lb. Add 170 for a driver then weight bars for class. My car in A needs to weigh 3,274 and when it was finished it was 2,920lb (I have 154lbs in the trunk)
By the way I was able to fit the 30x9 radial Hoosier slicks (the one with the smaller roll out) in the stock fenders without cutting. I needed to order the CalTrac with the extra 1 1/2” ride height to make it work. The bias tires 29x9 rub because of tire growth. Most of the Mustang racers cut some of the leading edge off for tire clearance. (Need to reconstruct the lip) I also used a BFH on the inside of the wheel wells by the rear seat sides and the fronts. Watch your rim back space because CalTrac leafs are a little wider than stock.
Hope your out testing soon.
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Oh I forgot, I have a brand new fastback trunk lid molding (not sure why I have it ) and rear window glass rubber seal you can have if you need it.
Mike
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I was going to try the same thing 25/30 years ago, (before dynacorn), and discovered the same thing about the quarter lines It killed my project On my car Idid about the same things Mike did for tire clearence but I did end up cutting and rolling the fender lips on all four wheel wells I ran ten inch wheels with no problems, by the way I still have some rims/tires , if you like Weld Wheels we might do a deal, Jim Kramer
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Hey Mike, it will mostly likely run B/S and maybe A/S. I also have the Calvert monoleaf 1” raised ride height, has a quick performance 9 inch housing 1/4” wall, beaf unit. We are running a 29.5x9stick Mickey Thompson with weld wheels 15x10 5.5 back space with plenty of room to spare 👍🏻 might have to move the rear axle back just a smidge but we’ll see. All fenders have been rolled. If I can get some pictures posted I can show you more of where we are at the moment, we are quite a bit further than what the pictures I have posted show. Thanks Mike for all the advice, we actually met in the end of December, I came out and picked up the 391 crank from you at your house. Got to see your amazingly beautiful 67 Shelby, are you going to Vegas divisional in November?? If so I’ll come find you and visit!
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I was going to try the same thing 25/30 years ago, (before dynacorn), and discovered the same thing about the quarter lines It killed my project On my car Idid about the same things Mike did for tire clearence but I did end up cutting and rolling the fender lips on all four wheel wells I ran ten inch wheels with no problems, by the way I still have some rims/tires , if you like Weld Wheels we might do a deal, Jim Kramer
The 64 to 66 you can follow the top of the fender, for the coupe and fastback are same. Just not the 67 and 68 haha. It was a bummer when we saw that, but figured it could use some nice newer quarters anyway so we bought some!! And I have to say, if anyone wants fenders, go with dynacorn they fit perfect with little modification! Sorry Jim, I’ve already got some welding pro stars, but thanks I sure appreciate the offer! I’ll show them in the next photos I get posted
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I do plan on going to Vegas for my last divisional, I’m getting ready for the Bakersfield double in Sept. (24-27.) I picked up some new REF headers last week and I’m hoping to pick up some et over the old Hookers.
Brian Pott from PV runs a ‘70 Mustang in B/S, runs real well with iron heads. Has been in the 10.0’s with it. If you touch 9.99 you need a full cage and some more safety stuff.
Do you need the trunk lid trim or the window seal? I can bring them with me to Las Vegas.
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I do plan on going to Vegas for my last divisional, I’m getting ready for the Bakersfield double in Sept. (24-27.) I picked up some new REF headers last week and I’m hoping to pick up some et over the old Hookers.
Brian Pott from PV runs a ‘70 Mustang in B/S, runs real well with iron heads. Has been in the 10.0’s with it. If you touch 9.99 you need a full cage and some more safety stuff.
Do you need the trunk lid trim or the window seal? I can bring them with me to Las Vegas.
Nice!! I'd be willing to bet the REF's are worth close to a tenth! I was at the AZ divisional in Feb. and got to help in the tear down barn with Brian after he set the record at 10.08 in B/S, absolutley flying. That was without icing the manifold, draining oil, and had still had 30lbs to get down to minimum weight... thats a 9.90 B/S car, with iron c8oe-n 155cc intake ports. Brian deserves it, he's had a lot issues the last cple years, went through 2 or 3 motors to get where he's at. Brian has helped us non stop with our car, the nicest guy you'll meet anywhere!
I don't want to add anymore weight to the car, I'd want to go to chromoly if i did a full cage... we are running mild steel and the tubing has to be bigger and thicker to be legal, with chromoly you can run thinner wall tubing... comes out to being like 60 lbs less than a full cage out of mild steel. The car most likely would be too heavy, I may have added other metal in other areas of the car to help strengthen it... so can't dip into the 9's haha thats probably a pipe dream anyway!! haha
Thanks Mike, i would take them. If you could bring them along that would be great, id sure appreciate that! did you say you had a clutch pedal for 68 car?
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I did have a clutch pedal, not sure now, it came out of the car about 10yrs ago. I did lose or misplaced some stuff during the move to AZ. I will look through my boxes.
Brian’s car weighs about the same as mine because of the iron heads hp rating. I think he broke the transmission more times than the engines. He is persistent. I think he has put some of those problems behind him.
It will be interesting to see how well Don Keen does at Indy with his mustangs.
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I saw your PM and tried to send a response, did you get anything? My sent box is empty, I’m not sure why. There was a small box labeled “save a copy” that I forgot to check. Not sure if that was needed but my sent box doesn’t show anything.
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Car prepped for paint for the most part
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that looks like it will do nicely! Just an idea, the 69 mustangs have plastic inner fender guards instead of the steel ones on yours and earlier mustangs, they have to be trimmed to fit but weigh almost nothing, also you can make the inner door hinge plates out of alunimum Pound here pound there!
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Looking good, what color are you going to paint it?
I had family issue come up and couldn’t go to the Bakersfield double. Looks like Vegas divisional to try out the new headers and tune.
By the way I also have a set of ‘68 bumpers I’m not using do you want them?
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base
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Base
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Clear
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Hood
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Trunk lid
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Done. Except for fenders and doors, gotta finish those up. Got some orange peel, nothing that won’t cut and buff out, not too bad for first time... maybe haha;)
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that looks like it will do nicely! Just an idea, the 69 mustangs have plastic inner fender guards instead of the steel ones on yours and earlier mustangs, they have to be trimmed to fit but weigh almost nothing, also you can make the inner door hinge plates out of alunimum Pound here pound there!
Hey Jim, those are good ideas I might try that!! Thanks for the tips!!
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Looking good, what color are you going to paint it?
I had family issue come up and couldn’t go to the Bakersfield double. Looks like Vegas divisional to try out the new headers and tune.
By the way I also have a set of ‘68 bumpers I’m not using do you want them?
Hey Mike, its painted” Antimatter” Ford Blue. It’s a cool color changes with different angles, not the best paint job… it’s a good “50 yards away” paint job;) haha
I’m planning on going to Vagas, hopefully I’ll see you there! I’d take them if you’re wanting to get rid of them but I have new ones. Either way, thanks for the offer! Hope to see you there!
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Now for the Meat and Patatoes!!😍
428 “A” scratch, billet crossbolt caps, filled block (will be replaced with sleeved down 427 side oiler soon)
3.997 stroke forged scat crank ( can do billet cranks now in nhra Stock wish I would have waited;)
6.488 Carrillo 2.20 jrn approved rods
CP pistons F2-CP approved 4.19 bore
Total Seal Rings
Bostick Racing in Yuma AZ did machine work on Block, done some blocks like this for other Fe guys on the west Coast. Revco in California did the balance work on rotating assembly.
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Short block
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Looks great. Really coming along now. Love the color. Just painted my dads 33 Ford and it came out really good was surprised myself. Yours looks great too. I know your worried about orange peel but don’t wet sand to much (ask me how I know).
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Thank you, I appreciate it. haha, I'm not so worried about the orange peel as I am the dirt specs, next time I will be doing stuff a little different to say the least. I'm a little nervous to cut it and buff it, mine only has two coats of clear, I was afraid to do another coat without getting more dirt in it... so we'll see how it goes i guess. Yeah painting is not really my thing I found out... lol!
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I would polish with a very light compound and then polish. A couple of specs of dirt won’t slow you down. And your probably gonna have stickers on it.