FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Stangman1 on July 21, 2026, 10:41:20 PM
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So I’ve had a power master starter for like 3 years but I keep putting the original ones in because it always seemed like every time I would need a starter I only would have a day or so because i was going somewhere with car and didn’t want to do any wiring that would be a problem at the track. Well I needed one again and it was after I got motor back in car and I haven’t been driving it because of fear of getting stuck when hot soak. So this past weekend I put the PM 9506 in. I was reading up on wiring and you can leave it like stock and just run jumper wire from bat wire on the starter to the solenoid on starter. But watched some videos saying to switch it to like a GM. Take the main starter wire that goes on the solenoid on fender and put it to the hot side of solenoid and run a wire from S wire on fender solenoid to solonniod on starter and it makes the solenoid which is always a problem ( because they don’t make them like they used to) work a lot easier because it’s not seeing the load jump anymore. Well I tried it that way and turn key nothing. Checked power at fender solenoid S wire and barely lite up a cheap test light. Didn’t have time to figure it out so I just put it back to stock with jumper and it started right up. I’m fine with leaving it like this but would like to know why that happened. Anybody had this problem.
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All of my modern starters are wired like that with battery power directly to the starter mounted solenoid and the original Ford solenoid provides the momentary signal.
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I haven't used that PowerMaster, but it sounds like the modern type that my RobbMc starters use.
The connection of the starter main cable to the hot side of the solenoid is correct. The starter solenoid wire should then be fed by the secondary side of the fender solenoid, where the starter cable used to be. That starter solenoid still has a decent current draw, so it needs the main connection on that fender solenoid to feed it. It doesn't draw near as much as the starter itself, so it will typically last much longer. The ignition wires on the solenoid shouldn't need to be disturbed, but I will say that the S side should be lighting up that test light bright, unless you're using a 24v test light.
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Ive been running that starter for along time now Just run a short jumper lead from the Ing terminal of the starter to the battery terminal on the starter and connect your old battery lead to the starter battery terminal and your done. I run my battery in the trunk an a1000 fuel pump twin derale radiator fans trans and engine oil coolers with fans and A/C. I only ever had any probs with hot starts with a 110amp alternator once I changed to a 140amp Ive had no probs. I will say the flywheel or flexplate and starter engages on one edge of the starter gear there is plenty of engagement but it could be some thing to check.
Other then that seems to be a great unit.
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Thanks guys at least I have a couple of ways to go. I was running the solenoid on starter with the S terminal on fender, switching it to the starter side of solenoid makes sense Doug. When I took the wire from the S terminal off I had good power there again.
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I've had that starter, the 9506 on my car on two different engines for the past 16 years. It is wired with the jumper wire between the two terminals and then to the solenoid like a stock starter. It is NOT a PMGR style starter that needs to be wired like a GM.....
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I've had that starter, the 9506 on my car on two different engines for the past 16 years. It is wired with the jumper wire between the two terminals and then to the solenoid like a stock starter. It is NOT a PMGR style starter that needs to be wired like a GM.....
Powermaster's website indeed shows it as a permanent magnet, gear reduction type.
https://www.powermasterperformance.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=9506
There are a couple of ways to wire it, but I think the way I mentioned, and the way RobbMc recommends theirs, is the best way to do it. The small terminals on the fender solenoid aren't really designed to handle anything more than the ignition circuits.
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Looking at the page in the link I don't see Permanent Magnet anywhere, just gear reduction. While it may have so PM in there, it is not the style of starter that acts like a generator once the engine starts spinning keeping itself energized. Even the instruction sheet for those say to run a jumper wire.......not trying to be argumentative, especially on this, one of my fave forums, just factual.....
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Here is all you need to do I used 8guage wire for the jumper and good crimp terminals