FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: fryedaddy on May 08, 2026, 12:11:40 PM
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im running hooker super comp headers in a 66 comet body-428,i need a good mini starter that will fit with my headers, any recommendations?
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I'm going to try the Powermaster I think part number (9605). I like the fact you can separate the body, and rotate it 360 degrees from the mounting surface, making it possible to index it in any location.
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I used a Powermaster 9506 (XS) on my '67 Fairlane with Hooker Super Comps. I didn't have to do anything to make it fit. The power cable is right close to the block but not so much that you have to do anything. I could get the cable on and thread the nut onto the stud. It's been working fine for years. Of course, there are other choices, but that's what worked for me.
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I have the 9605 haven’t installed it yet.
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Both my 67 and 68 use Powermaster starters. The last two Mustangs I built (one sb and one FE) also got Powermasters.. I have good luck with them.
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RobbMc starters are an option, and add the Pinion Support.
https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html
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I've had some issues with high compression engines and Powermaster starters. If you look at them carefully during operation you will see that the starter gear does not full engage the gear on the flywheel; it only goes 2/3-3/4 deep into the teeth. I've taken them apart in the past and machined the mounting flange so make it thinner, so that the entire gear engages the flywheel teeth. But I've had better luck with the RobbMc starters, which don't have this problem, and also offer the pinion support like a factory starter. I think if you are running 12:1 or more on a big engine, you should be leaning towards the RobbMc starter.
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I'm curious if these gear reduction starters have the same "sound" as Mopar starters. I've never cared for that.
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old iron tip 1 good heavy wire and ground 2 you can install a roller bearing in a starter nose - used for 460 inch-lot of compression on circle tracks-a lot of heat!! no problems 3-- on fe blocks on all 4 corners a cast in block about 3/4x1 /1-1/2 knob exists used as fixture/jig/ assy.line to hold block when factory machined on a line---- look above starter mounting location toward deck --that needs to be cut off it will block some rotation with aftermarket starters to clear headers etc.-----my gapp/roush block had this cut off early 1970s----factory starters clear this cast in fixture---look and save having a problem with big headers check engagement depth on flywheel/flex plate --- john
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I'm curious if these gear reduction starters have the same "sound" as Mopar starters. I've never cared for that.
They don't sound like a stock Ford starter but they don't really sound like a Chrysler starter either. The RobbMc starters sound closest to the old Ford starters.
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I used PM 9406 on the Dyno and it worked fine.Engine not yet installed. After reading Jay's post I'm questioning by choice. Chuck
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Have to agree with the heavy wire thing- my Galaxie has 4/0 aluminum wire from the trunk battery to the solenoid, and also battery to the frame, and welding cable from solenoid to starter, since 1978, starting with the 14:1 427 engine. Had the same starter all that time, a used factory 302-2V unit that I swapped the nose to the 3-bolt FE nose, still spins it fine with the current 12:1 deal
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I've run several RobMC starters on FE's and also on 38 series stuff and have been very happy with them. To me they sound like a late model Ford starter like out of an early 90's 460 truck. I've had no issues on mild stuff running without the pinion support but would definitely recommend it on higher compression 11-12 to 1 and up I think it's a good idea. I haven't had bad luck with Powermaster's, but I have had a few fail much sooner than I'd expect but in the modern day you never know what you get.