FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: c9zx on April 14, 2026, 02:30:51 PM
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My in car headers won't clear the Dyno frame. I know Jay tested truck headers in his book. What should I be looking to buy? 1966-1976 F-100 352-390? I would appreciate some info as the engine is already on the Dyno. Thanks, Chuck
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I think the truck headers you mentioned will work - Jay
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Thanks Jay!
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Depends on the dyno, Superflow has some room, a Land & Sea I used once ran truck headers, and most Stuskas need a dyno header that look like a T-bucket, they have to go out and away.
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And sometimes, particularly if the bolt patterns are symmetrical (like the vertical 8-bolt FE's) I've mounted the headers "up-side-down", then looking like a set of "over-the transom" boat style headers. :o
Scott.
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Thanks all. Scott, the Dyno owner ejected me from the shop when I shared your idea. But, thanks anyway. Chuck
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You are buying headers just for the Dyno? Or are the truck headers for a truck? I can’t recall your build. Is the engine for your Cyclone?
It would be nice if the tube diameter is the same as the final set of tubes for whichever chassis the engine is going in to.
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Thanks all. Scott, the Dyno owner ejected me from the shop when I shared your idea. But, thanks anyway. Chuck
Well, it's actually not an "idea", rather it "is" something that we have practiced many times. And in the case of the "FE's", those with the vertical 8-bolt pattern type heads, and where we're not really "going for the gold", it "is" an old set of truck headers (Headmans' IIRC.) that I most frequently utilize, mounted "up-side-down"; and work perfectly! ;)
O.K. yeah, this puts them up in the air, just don't be too quick, to get too close to 'em, particularly after a shut-down immediately after a full-pull; your cotton clothing will "alight" and the polyester stuff just "melts" (don't ask me how I know)! :o
But, "Don't knock it until you've tried it", kinda comes to mind. ::)
I've also made spacers, this with two header flanges of the appropriate application and a few inches of pipe, this to set the headers out from the cylinder heads and hence the dyno stand, or if inverting the headers (flip one of the flanges ;)) away from the valve covers, these also incorporating the taps for the EGT's; this way I can utilize them without having to modify the customers pipes. I figure, adding a couple of inches to the primary tube length, if necessary, to the "actual" headers that will be utilized creates less of a variable from the as mounted in-the-chassis effect, than that as compared to utilizing a completely unrelated and different header pipe set. 8)
Scott.
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My in car headers won't clear the Dyno frame. I know Jay tested truck headers in his book. What should I be looking to buy? 1966-1976 F-100 352-390? I would appreciate some info as the engine is already on the Dyno. Thanks, Chuck
Not mentioned, but Ford FE "truck headers" come in 2 wheel and 4 wheel drive versions, and they are different.
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Yeah, the "4 x 4" headers will often have the primary tubes moved closer to the oil pan to provide the additional clearance needed for the front-axle driveshaft to pass, so these would 'not' be what your looking for. But headers have been made in a multitude of fashions, so you'll just have to judge each possibility on it's own unique attributes. :)
aka. A bit of a "crap-shoot"! ::)
Scott.
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Depending on the layout of the dyno cell, one could also try some Bassett boat headers. I have a set for a jet boat that are 1-7/8 with 3-1/2 collectors but no tight turns. Also have a set of stainless V-Drive big tubes similar to the race Hookers, IIRC they are 2-1/8 and 4". Not too easy to find, but if they would fit the cell, they should work pretty well. Also very serious boomers, they will drown out several 454 Chebbies with ease lol