FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 69ramair on March 10, 2026, 09:15:20 PM
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I am looking at putting the CVR electric water pump on my 464. A couple of questions will this help it run cooler in city driving over the mechanical pump?
Also since there is no provision for plumbing in to the water pump could I just run the return line for the heater core into the thermostat housing where there is a pipe plug already? Any comments would be appreciated Thanks
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I am looking at putting the CVR electric water pump on my 464. A couple of questions will this help it run cooler in city driving over the mechanical pump?
Also since there is no provision for plumbing in to the water pump could I just run the return line for the heater core into the thermostat housing where there is a pipe plug already? Any comments would be appreciated Thanks
I am not an electric pump guy, but generally, city traffic heat is due to an airflow issue not pump pressure or flow.
I like to use as much fan as I can
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Use Jay Brown Waterpump Adapters, And Drill/Tap The One For The Passenger Side To Accept A Heater Hose Barb. It worked For Me. While You're At It, Add An Extra Port For A Temp Guage And Or Sender. Never Know When You Are Going To Need One, It Unclutters The Top Of The Engine, And Gives The Engine A Professional Appearance. This One, While Costing A Bit More Than The More Common Ones, Flows MoreGPH, And Worked/Fit The Adapters Well. Yes, Its A CVR.
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Since an electric water pump runs at full speed all the time, it will circulate more coolant at idle than a stock water pump. My experience has been that this tends to keep the engine cooler at idle and in traffic, although the radiator also has to be up to the drill, and so does the fan(s). Again I prefer electric fans, because even when the car is moving slowly the fans are operating at full speed.
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A quality electric water pump will work great for slow engine speeds and city driving conditions because the electric pump pumps at full capacity if it is on.
Many electric water pumps do not have sufficient flow capacity to keep up with an engine when driving at higher engine rpms for extended periods of time, like going down the highway.
But if you are having cooling issues at idle speeds, or slow driving speeds, I would look at airflow through the radiator (heat transfer and dissipation) before I would go after the water pumps pumping capacity.
Concerning plumbing a heater hose into the thermostat housing, that sounds like a problematic situation because the heater hose water flow directly in the thermostat area would likely give false engine coolant temps to the thermostat, likely making the thermostat react as if the engine is cooler than it actually is.
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For cooling I have a new ACP aluminum radiator with two one and quarter inch tubes
And I have two 11 inch Spal fans rated at 1640 cfm part #30102800 that have the highest amperage rating I could find they really pull a lot of air and no shroud
On the highway the temperatures are no problem. The water pump is a cheap aluminum one so I thought maybe a good upgrade to the CVR proflow extreme 55 gpm would help
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Have any of you tried a Davies Craig Fan/waterpump controller?