FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Boiler Ben on November 18, 2025, 11:17:25 AM
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I think I read enough on the forum to convince myself that a carb plate can be used to safely lift a fully dressed FE with manual transmission and aluminum intake, even at a near 45 degree angle. But what's the best way to attach this style of tilter to the the lift plate? Or is this only useful for attaching to front left and right rear head locations (3/8" taps into the ends of the heads)? And if so, is that a decent way to do it?
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I asked this question in the past month or two. I think Jay Brown said to use the four corner intake holes. So I removed those four and hooked up my four chains. Last night I was manuevering the engine/trans combo up and down , back and forth to get the feel. I may get time tonight to try and set it in place. I can snap a picture after I get home later today if it helps?
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A picture of your setup would be helpful. This is maybe a minor point but it's hard to know what's important when it's your first time doing it. Anyway, my intake bolts are ARP and it said to follow the intake manifold manufacturer guidance for torque. Mine is Edelbrock and I think it said 25 ft-lb which seemed low but that's what I did. I also put RTV on the washers to prevent oil seepage. So if I undo the four corners, should I retorque all the intake bolts? And clean and reapply the RTV to all the washers?
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I used some off brand grade 8 3/8-16 bolts and spared any side bending of my ARP bolts. I plan to reseal the washers and retorque when I removed the tilt/lift device. I have a low end Edelbrock Performer 390 on this engine.
Picture in a few hours.
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Jack the hindend of the vehicle up and keep the engine level...
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Pictures, I hope they help.
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift1.jpg (http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift1.jpg)
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift2.jpg (http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift2.jpg)
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift3.jpg (http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift3.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift1.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift2.jpg)
(http://www.fairlanet.com/images/lift3.jpg)
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The pictures do help. Thank you Doug.
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Jack the hindend of the vehicle up and keep the engine level...
I second this. ^^^
Makes it waaaay easier.
I've removed/installed many engines over the years, with the vehicle level....
First time I tried jacking the vehicle back end fairly high up, and putting jack stands under the rear axle....
I was truly shocked at how much easier it was to slide the engine into place and onto the mounts.
It made what was at least a 1/2 hour or more of fiddle fartin around jockeying the engine hoist to get the engine lined up "just right", into a 5 - 10 minute job.
I near couldn't believe how easy it was.
The engine practically fell into place.
It really works! Try it!
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Yep. Heres what I do. Can't stomach a carb plate no matter how much I hear how safe it is ;D
(https://i.postimg.cc/RCQb3M5P/IMG_1561.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7PVmHm0d/20200829_132443.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jXwp5PS)
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I agree with 66 fairlane. Way more comfortable with out using carb plate
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Would there be a down side to using the tilter device with 2 chains instead of 4, attached to opposite corners on the heads? Then having the ability to adjust the angle as it’s lowered?
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If you already have that tilter that you posted, using the 4 corners of the intake, as Jay suggested, would be best.
If you don't have a tilter yet, I'd suggest using Mac's tilter, like pictured below. I've used this one on several engines, and it works great. Jacking the rear up definitely helps also, as Brent suggested.
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Do it like this. I unbolt the idler arm for more clearance, drop the engine in most of the way with the driver's side header installed, then when you are about a foot off the mounts, install the passenger side header. The engine will drop in easily from there.
(https://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/492instl.JPG)