FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: bsprowl on February 03, 2025, 01:41:58 PM
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As I said in a the cam card thread, turning the crank takes 35 ft-lbs for break away and 30 or so to turn. And there is more grim in the cylinders that I like so I pulled the pistons and rods out. Almost all of the pistons have dirt completely around the outside above the top rings. THe bearings have a date of 2021 on them so the short block was not assembled before that. I was told it was done in the 2018 time frame.
THe crank spins easily with only the cam and timing chain installed; 10 inch pounds for break away.
My questions are what is the torque for the rod bolts; they are labeled SCAT 44 ARP 8740. Also what should I use for lube? They have a light coat of moly on them but it looks dry.
Someone, Blair maybe, told me that these bolts should be upgraded if I was going to do some serious racing. That is my plan so what should I buy? Years ago, a bolt change required a resizing of the rod is that still true?
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The 8740 7/16" bolts torque at 64 lb-ft with ARP lube. If you change bolts, rods should be measured for size.
If everything freed up when you pulled the pistons/rods, make sure the rings are gapped correctly, make sure the rod bearings don't hit the radii on the rod journals, and make sure the rods are facing the right way.
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The radii and and rods orientation seem to be OK. I'll look again to verify that.
If I have to check the rings I've got a problem. My vision is really poor with and my hand-eye coordination sucks at best at detailed work as I'm ageing out. I just watched couple of videos and discovered that they make ring fillers; I did it back in the day with a hand file. Maybe it won't be that difficult.
Now I have to determine the gap I need.