FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: c9zx on January 21, 2025, 04:48:22 PM
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After a VERY long lunch break, I will be returning to the world of FE engines. I will need information and guidance on many topics, so please bare with me if I ask a question that should be "common knowledge". The car is a nicely restored 1966 Cyclone GT 4 speed. The engine (not original) runs fine but it's "nearly stock" status just won't work for me. So, my first question is, is there anyway to get Mr. Jay Brown's book other than sending him a check. If not, I'll send the check. Thanks, Chuck
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I posted this in the wrong place! Can an Administrator please move it to the proper topic area. Thanks, Chuck
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Given that Mr. Jay Brown created and maintains this forum, I'd say the general consensus, and might I add decent thing to do, would be to 'send him a check'. It'll be a worthwhile investment into your library.
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You can just go to the main web site, fepower.net, and click on the link to the book. It's below:
https://www.fepower.net/GFEIC.html
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Sorry I missed the credit cards buttons the first time I was there. Book is ordered. Thanks, Chuck
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The book is cheap for the amount of info in it.
Greg
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i love the 66 comets,i have a 66 caliente original 390 4 speed car. has 428 now.it has bbm heads,hooker headers,msd dist.comp cam,etc. i have owned mine 43 years and i have put 4 engines in it over that period. welcome brother
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I have been reading the book when I can. It is very well done and very informative. Many of the testing results were unexpected.
I bought this particular car because it is very well done restoration and it is a one for one copy of my first "hot rod" at 17. It should arrive in a week or two. I am hesitant to take apart a perfectly good engine and not being able to drive the car for many months. So I'm considering starting a search for a good factory block. There have always been many myths and legend stories regarding FE blocks. I have heard the story that some 390s have the capacity to be bored to 4.130 and still have enough thickness in the bores to sonic test "good". What is considered good thickness for the thrust and non-thrust sides? Use would be hot street, about 1.3 HP per CID with matched driveline components. Finished machined aftermarket blocks seem to be $5K and up. For my purposes, that doesn't seem to be justified, maybe I'm wrong. I know the mirror 105 blocks have the extra main webbing. Do they have significantly less core shift or is it a crap shoot like everything else? All input will be appreciated. Thanks, Chuck
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Glad you like the book! Core shift always seems to be a crap shoot. I normally look for a wall thickness of at least 0.125" on the thrust sides, and at least 0.100" on the non-thrust sides. Thicker is better at the top end of the bore. If you look at the sonic map of my 427 stroker in the book, you can see a few cylinders that are far below the 0.100" thickness on the non-thrust sides, and that engine is still running great after all the dyno work, and in the car. So the numbers aren't necessarily absolute.
390 truck blocks (FT) were often cast with 428 water jacket cores, and those can usually be bored to 428 size. Never a good idea to bore a passenger car 390 block that far.
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If I were spending your money I would go with a good seasoned 390 (or 428 if available and within your budget) block, do a sonic check and if good, bore as little as possible and go with a stroker kit from one of our builders. I'd rather have the rigidity and peace of mind of thicker walls and less flex. The few extra cubes would not be worth the risk to me.
While you are in the "reading" phase, have you checked out the dyno results page on this forum? Lots of good "recipes" there.
Pat
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Thanks for the input guys. Every little bit will help me make good parts decisions. I did look at the Dyno result section, some impressive builds for sure. I saw some using the bigger valved and larger port volume heads (BBM) on relatively small bores (4.100-4.130) It seems to work fine, which kinds surprised me. Perhaps I mis-read the texts. I see several people favor TFS or BBM. Is the choice bore, displacement, or RPM dependent? What is the additional cost of porting the heads and intake? It seems to be effective even for a street build. Thanks, Chuck
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Never ever never bore any OEM FE or FT block any more than necessary. If you think you need more displacement, use a stroker crankshaft.
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I see several people favor TFS or BBM. Is the choice bore, displacement, or RPM dependent? What is the additional cost of porting the heads and intake? It seems to be effective even for a street build. Thanks, Chuck
You just have to look at what you get for the money. With the TFS, you get a completely assembled pair of heads for about $2600, that have a moderately sized intake port volume and flow around 330 cfm. They come assembled with name brand parts, such as PAC valve springs.