FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Boiler Ben on October 21, 2024, 08:40:27 AM
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I’ve seen suggestions for using lock washers on the oil pan. What about front cover or oil filter adaptor? From photos, it looks like most people do not use lock washers.
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Use whichever you want. I use both.
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I think this falls into personal preference. Sometimes I even use studs on front covers, with flanged nuts. A lot of times I use allen bolts with lock washers on front covers.
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Lock washers are the difference between a GMC and a Chebbie trucks
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OK, where would Buick and Oldsmobile land in this?
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OK, where would Buick and Oldsmobile land in this?
"Star-Washers"! ::)
Scott.
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Just remember that the actual functioning principles of these "lock" washers takes place after the fastener is attempting to move; this meaning it's already loose! :o
Scott.
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Lock washers and serrated underhead fasteners are useful in applications where you cannot attain any real clamp load on the fastener itself.
These would include valve covers and oil pans where the thick gaskets would deform or crush.
Blue Loc-tite - or a nylon insert bolt - would also work well in these cases, but could be a PITA to service in the field.
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I’ve got a follow up question on this. I bought the ARP 12 point SS accessory bolt kit because I like how they look. I just put on the front cover. ARP doesn’t have specific torque for this, just by bolt diameter, so 24 ft-lb for 5/16” and 45 ft-lb for 3/8”. This seemed too high to me so I torqued them all to 20 ft-lb. Now I am second guessing. I did not use lock washers, just the ARP washers. Used Right Stuff for gasket and threads that need sealing, ARP lube on the other threads. Should I make any adjustments here?
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I’ve got a follow up question on this. I bought the ARP 12 point SS accessory bolt kit because I like how they look. I just put on the front cover. ARP doesn’t have specific torque for this, just by bolt diameter, so 24 ft-lb for 5/16” and 45 ft-lb for 3/8”. This seemed too high to me so I torqued them all to 20 ft-lb. Now I am second guessing. I did not use lock washers, just the ARP washers. Used Right Stuff for gasket and threads that need sealing, ARP lube on the other threads. Should I make any adjustments here?
Not to sound like a hack, but the amount of times I've used a torque wrench on a timing cover bolt over the last XXX number of engines has been zero. I just use a 3/8" drive ratchet, snug them up, then roll on.
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Perfect. Thank you. Just overthinking stuff I guess.
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I just put on the front cover. .............................so 24 ft-lb for 5/16” and 45 ft-lb for 3/8”. This seemed too high to me..............
Definitely "too high" for this. :o
............ so I torqued them all to 20 ft-lb.
Plenty tight enough. ;)
But, I do always utilize a torque wrench, if only so that I can say that I did! ::)
Scott.
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Like Brent said it’s all in the feel. When you have been doing these things for 30-40 years it’s all in the feel. Rocker shafts intakes and crankshafts is something different but covers and pans I put them to good and tight. ;)
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Like Brent said it’s all in the feel. When you have been doing these things for 30-40 years it’s all in the feel. Rocker shafts intakes and crankshafts is something different but covers and pans I put them to good and tight. ;)
Gutentite.... I think that's a German virgin.... ;D ;)
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Ha yeah.
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I prefer studs whenever I can use them (especially on rocker covers). So called lockwashers do not really "lock". Nylock nuts, interference fit (crimped head) nuts, and washerhead nuts with blue locktite are useful where you might want them.