FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 428Marauder on June 28, 2024, 11:45:55 AM
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Just recently had some work done at a mechanic. Rear main seal, flywheel, oil pan stuff. Got it back with a leaky carb, had a rebuild kit handy, replaced gasket, car was running good. I dropped the gas tank, did some work on it, put it back in, put gas in it and it started but was sputtering badly and backfiring. It would die unless I gave it throttle. I’ve had that happen before when the coil was going out, coil is cheap so I got a new one, tidied up some wires, new coil did not solve problem. Now car turns over but wont start. Primed carb, still no start, so no spark. I’ve got a new set of plug wires on the way just because that’s overdue and my next best guess is my Pertronix has failed. Not sure where my old rotor, point and condenser is so I’m about to just buy a new unit. I visually inspected it and I don’t see a burn or anything on it. Can’t think of another reason it would start and run bad and now not start at all, besides the coil. You guys always give me the best advice so I figured I’d check here and see if anyone has other ideas first. Thanks.
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One of those remote starter switches is handy in a situation like this. First take the distributor cap off and use the switch (or just turn the crank with a wrench) to make sure the rotor is turning. If so, put the cap back on, pull the coil wire from the center of the distributor, turn the ignition switch on and use the switch to crank it while holding the end of the wire near the block to see if you get spark. Use gloves. :)
If no spark, I'd still use a meter to make sure the ignitor is wired right and getting power before buying another one.
Pat
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Good advice above
1 - Crank engine make sure rotor turns, verify rotor tab, rotor, and cap button intact. Also make sure rotor is pushed down all the way and didn't jump off locator slot (bit me on a big dollar CJ resto LOL)
2 - Turn key to run and make sure 12V at pos side of coil and to pertronix
3 - If yes, do the same thing during crank to make sure solenoid circuit working
I'd be surprised if those three things don't show you something, but if not we'll think more
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I inspected the rotor and it is in place. Had some carbon deposits on the tip which I sanded with 220. Same result. Probably will just pick up a new rotor. Not sure how to check the solenoid. I’m a body guy and a welder and I’m not even sure where the solenoid is. I suck at electrical. That remote starter switch thing sounds handy. I’ll let you guys know how it turns out but it’s like a billion degrees out here in Arizona so things happen slowly.
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Run A Wire From The Battery To The Coil + Terminal, And See If It Will Startt. Sometimes We Look For Exotic Problems And Overlook Simple, Basic Mechanics. If It Starts With The Jumper Wire In Place, Then You Know It Is The Wiring, Switch, Or Solenoid. Pretty Basic Stuff.
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Since you mentioned replacing the coil, I will note that if it is a Pertonix I and the black wire touches the + side of anything hot it will fail instantly.
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You mentioned dropping the gas tank and doing maintenance on it. I would suspect that trash got sucked into the lines, filter, or needle and seat at the carb. Might even have trash around a jet. That would cause the problem of running rough. Just another idea. Joe-JDC
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Looks like you can pick up knock off Pertronix 1281 on Amazon now for $40. Anyone ever try them? Made by Zieichy.
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Well, I wasn’t brave enough to try the knock off. I figured it would be good to have a spare lying around with my spare coil. I’m not sure what else to do. Like I said I’m electric-disabled. I can see that gas is squirting into the carb but it isn’t even coughing. I want to see if my mechanic can figure out why there’s still nothing at the fuel gauge with the new sending unit anyway so I’ll probably get it over to him. Battery check was good recently but I’ll check it again.
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I guess something this mechanic did previously was causing the coil to ground out so it’s good I got it back to them. I’ll have to get them to show me exactly where the issue was. Near the carb somewhere. Mechanic also says the distributor is shot and there’s no spark on 7. Meanwhile, I had to get the timing chain done on my truck (04 F150 5.4L) and I put a new RobbMc starter on my Galaxie and I still have a heat soak issue there and I want to get started on removing and cleaning the radiator on that car, so distributor for the Mercury will have to wait. At least I know where I’m at now. Thanks guys.