FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: manofmerc on June 07, 2024, 04:08:37 AM
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My local track prep is inconsistent. I have 9x29.5 mickeys 3056st sometimes I hook sometimes I dont.This a a 460 based 502 c-6 loosened convertor went to a 3.70 from a 4.10 .Tried every setting on my cal tracs new hoosiers new mickeys both spun hoosier has a 10" with 11.00 section width #18158 curious if you all think this would work .Doug
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I gave the wrong #sorry!it is #18150 with a 10.3 " section width
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What are you running for slick pressures? Launch rpm? What is the contact patch?
Should be a way to hook them up
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How heavy is the car, what ET, MPH, and 60 foot times? And what do you have for front suspension setup? Wheel width and tire pressures? There are plenty of low 10 second/high 9 second Fairlanes racing in NHRA Stock Eliminator on 9" slicks. "Loosened convertor" is very vague, what is the actual stall speed? What are you launching the car at? Using a transbrake? Also curious why you are using a stickshift tire with an automatic transmission.
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the front suspension plays a big part with cal tracs.90/10 shocks moroso springs,not stock springs or heavy road race springs,battery in the trunk etc.front end lift on launch is really important for them to work.also roller bearing spring perches,every thing works together for wieght transfer.also if you have iron heads and placment of the engine fore and aft makes an impact.
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I went through all this along time ago. I had a ranchero, even lighter in the ass end. I did everything everyone is mentioning: 90/10's, Caltracts etc. The Rear tires wer 28 x 10.5 on Weld 10'' with 5.5 back spacing. To get them to fit there is about 2" between the inner wheel tub to the frame. I cut the 2" out and with some clamps and heat did a mini-tub with stock wheel tub pushed toward frame , then welded. Also did some grinding to wheel lip. All fit no problem. Was much better after that. Here is the golden ticket I share. An older timer told me to get some crap rear shock that sag. I believe WTF was my answer. But I listened some more. Also said to get a pinion snubber. Let the ass end sag, weight transfer to back and get the bottom of car to drive the snubber into the earth. That solved all my issues. Food for thought.
Doug aka pumpbldr
Precision Oil Pumps
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I will give the best answers I can .I have cheap 90/10 shocks on the front with smallblock torino springs It has a transbrake the stall is 4500 9" ati convertor Calvert springs with their rear shocks setting is at 1 (calverts recomendation The reason I use that 4spd slick is also calverts idea I also run m/t 3056st another stiff sidewall tire the rims are 8" I plan to purchase calverts front 90/10 shocks just to see if there is a difference A hooking 60 ft.1.43@6.62 A not so hooking 1.60s I spoke with the hoosier guy he said that tire wouldnt be worth the expence and trouble .With excellent prep it hooks fine so-so prep it spins off the line I had a smaller engine it hooked consistently with this 502 not so . The cam has a 108 in centerline I installed it + 2 at 106 really thinking about a 4-6 degree retard cam is 256-266 108 ls 620 lift I have thought about moving my springs in so I could put a really big tire in there but somehow I believe I am just missing something I have tried my two step at 2400-3400 it spins less at a lower rpm.If I missed something I will check back with you all tomorrow
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Tire pressure 13.5-12 battery in trunk
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I went through all this along time ago. I had a ranchero, even lighter in the ass end. I did everything everyone is mentioning: 90/10's, Caltracts etc. The Rear tires wer 28 x 10.5 on Weld 10'' with 5.5 back spacing. To get them to fit there is about 2" between the inner wheel tub to the frame. I cut the 2" out and with some clamps and heat did a mini-tub with stock wheel tub pushed toward frame , then welded. Also did some grinding to wheel lip. All fit no problem. Was much better after that. Here is the golden ticket I share. An older timer told me to get some crap rear shock that sag. I believe WTF was my answer. But I listened some more. Also said to get a pinion snubber. Let the ass end sag, weight transfer to back and get the bottom of car to drive the snubber into the earth. That solved all my issues. Food for thought.
Doug aka pumpbldr
Precision Oil Pumps
I remember seeing your Rancheroi at a FPP show back in the 1980's. Seemed like you had it well thought out and the car (truck?) was put together really well. Are the rear springs farther inboard on a Ranchero than a Fairlane?
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The 90/10s are great for weight transfer and potential air under front runners but the compression is too little imo. My 67 would be pogoing 1-3 gear shifts. I never hit the Canton pan or Crites tubes but it must have been very close. I switched to Viking DAs on the front. Extension is nearly the same, (still tuning), but the controlled compression has car much more stable through upshifts.
On the footprint, if you make the decision to get a 10.5 tire under there the extra total 3” +/- of rubber will make a profound difference.
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Wagons and Rancheros do have narrower spring mounting points. Around 1- or 1-1/2 inches less (total) as I recall.
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66-67 My thought exactly .Just lot of work and a fair amount of money then what to do with all my left over slicks and wheels >Somehow I am missing something as others have said it should hook with these 9" tires and sometimes it does .Sometimes doesnt win races .Thanks you all .Doug
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Have you weighed your car on all 4 corners? If Im reading your post correctly, your using the REV limiter on launch? Have you tried leaving off of just the transbrake?
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I fought the same battle years ago, and finally talked with a Stock Eliminator National Champion about this. He opened my thought process with a statement that a 9" wide slick 30" tall actually had a better tire contact patch than the 10.5 due to the length of the patch, not the width. That took some thought, but he was right. Yes, many racers with 9" wide slicks do run in the 9 second range with a well set-up chassis. Joe-JDC
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No I havent weighted my car on the corners and I am leaving on the trans brake (c-6)Yes joe I have a 29.5 tire I am just missing something .The real deal is if I were to move my springs in to put a bigger tire it would probably hook up just from bigger rubber .But somehow if I can just find a simple solution it would cure my lack of traction .On my trans brake I am leaving at 2800 .The small block guys tell me to leave at 3800 .I tried 3300 spin city .Their small blocks 434 cu.in. dont have my torque Their theory is more rpms load your suspension didnt work for me .My current tire only have 10-12 passes on them also.Next time out I will have new 90/10 shocks I will try a lower setting on my two step less air in the tires (12) psi maybe 4 degrees retard in the dist.Thanks for your comments and help Doug
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Doug, I had a 1.46 60’ the other night with the 10.5s. 13.5 psi, 3800 rpm clutch dump. Sub par burnout, just skidded forward as I did not get planted in box. My Hoosiers are 29”. I put a 29.5 in there but did not like how close to the dog leg the tire was.
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On my 67 Falcon I use 28x15" slicks on the rear, or Hoosier 275-60x15 drag radials, although I prefer the slicks. The tires are Hoosier 18150D06, 28.00 x 10.00-15. I run 12 lbs in the tires. The wheels are 15x8 with 4.5" pack space and a tiny .125 thick spacer. The inner fender lips are rolled. The leaf springs leave a tell-tale run on the inside sidewall when moving around. Older M/Ts would grow enough to have rubber deposit on the very rear edge of the rocker panels at the wheel well front. The Hoosiers don't do that.
Suspension is stock rear leaves (yea, still on Mama Ford parts) with Caltrack bars and Rancho shocks set on 7. Fronts are 90/10 Comp Eliminator but will soon be Aldan American single adjustable coil overs. I'll eventually switch to Caltrack monoleaf springs in the rear, just because one day those 57 year old springs are gonna do a Blues Brothers complete disintegration one day LOL. With good air and a good bite, it'll leave with about 1" air under the front runners. Car runs 7.3x~.4x depending on where we are and the density altitude. Eventually we should pick that up about .75 with a new motor.
Car weights 3250 with fuel and driver. DR use 16 lbs. On tracks with minimal prep and/or way hot humid conditions like we have here, it's slicks. Roll gently through the water past any puddles if possible, burn until bite - maybe 5,6 seconds - then stage.
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i am using hooser 29.5/10.5 s-15 co6 hook well --- but use 9.5-10.5 pressure you can check with heat gun to see if your tire is heating even across face-good luck john/ oldiron car is tubbed what compound are you using?
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You can also just look at the tire - a nice LED stick light helps - for a feather pattern across the tire. When the pressure is right for the car, it'll be reasonably consistent across the face of the tire. IMHO, better than any heat gun shoot. Also a reminder that the taller the tire, the bigger the footprint vs wide. But if the Fairlane has a similar wheel well to a Falcon, 28" is about the limit unless you hike up the tail. A 29.5 x 10 on my car at the existing ride height would shred its self on the rear edge of the rocker panel.
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Tail is hiked on my 67. I swapped in a replacement set of the rear section of each split mono leaf. Calvert offers them in PLUS sizes.
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In two weeks we have a race it will be nice and hot ! The hoosiers are do6 compound micks are their stiff sidewall 3056st .For next race planning to use my new 90/10 front shocks calverts run 12 psi pull some timing out and lower my two step setting from2800 to 2400 .What has been so frustrating is this car has always been consistent until I installed the bigger engine .It really isnt that much of a bigger engine It runs about two tenths quicker than my old engine but that was enough to kill my traction .I have a really loose 9" convertor similar to my current 9" convertor .Thinking that should be my next move .Although I already had the new one loosened up .I have been looking online for ideas on moving my rear springs inward .Not much out there for ford or merc guys .Crites had a kit to move your springs in but I am probably to late for that since they closed the doors .Thanks for the ideas and thoughts Doug
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I did mine without a kit years back. Fabricated brackets for the inside, stock fuel tank was removed already, so added a crossbar in the rear to mount the shackles. Then pinched the inner tubes for clearance. Fit a 10.5x30 slick on a 10" wheel.
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I like what you did there in the tail section - nice. I've been thinking about that for a future mod when the 650HP motor gets in there. My fuel cell setup is modular so I can service or move it around for clearance as needed.
(https://raceabilene.com/misc/Falcon/FalconCell2.jpg)
(https://raceabilene.com/misc/Falcon/FalconCell.jpg)