FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: bsprowl on May 18, 2024, 05:12:44 PM
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Unable to bleed the throw out bearing on my 1999 Ranger 3.0 5 speed. I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing three weeks ago. I pulled the inner fender panel and removed the master cylinder so that any air trapped in it (because it normally sits at a 60-75 degree angle) could get out. I tried working the master cylinder and pulling a vacuum with a hand vacuum (as much as 25 pounds) I have not gotten more than a few drops of fluid out of the throw out bearing bleed screw.
Master cylinder worked fine before I changed the clutch. How can I tell if the problem is the new throw out bearing or the master cylinder?
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Bob, it seems likely there is a blockage of some type in the fluid path.
Check a few things first.
1) Bleed screw is actually made correctly....meaning fluid can pass through completely.
2) Bleed screw threaded hole is able to pass fluid.
3) Fluid path in the new throw out bearing is open and properly made.
I say this because these things USED to be one of the normal items that was just made correctly and never gave any issue......Not so much these days.
Aftermarket new parts are riddled with stupid issues like this.
Once those items have been proven good then move on to the rest of the system that was left untouched on the truck.
Start with the fluid line....it may have collapsed internally and only gives trouble when under pressure.
I had a line like this years ago.
It looked perfect on the outside.
It allowed fluid to pass via gravity so it seemed "open".
But when pressure was applied a portion of it (inner liner) would wad up and block the fluid enough to cause issues.....OH, and it was a brand new brake line too.
There could be some junk that moved from the bottom of the master cylinder into the line as well. Thos things get a bit dirty and when we start moving things around stuff "breaks loose" and finds its way in the system somewhere else.
Finally, prove the master is still transfering fluid.
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Good ideas. Thanks
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Ford Rangers, in the late 80s early 90s (If I recall correctly) had a nightmare clutch bleeding situation. The line from the master to the slave was full of crazy bends and literally wouldn't bleed on the truck. I don't think that is applicable to your year but maybe I'm remembering the years incorrectly. There should be plenty of info online about solutions if it is your issue.
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Yep, those late 80's early 90's Ranger clutches were a nightmare to bleed.
I worked at a trans shop and we did lots of them.
Can't tell you how many times we "thought" we had it bled..... called the customer to come get it.... and....
Customer pays and gets in his truck and the clutch pedal just falls to the floor. No clutch action.
Very embarrassing.
We learned that once we thought we had it bled and it worked fine on the road test.
DON'T call the customer as soon as it's "done"...
Put it in the shop and let it sit overnight and check it again the next day.
Inevitably it would need just one more bleed. OR
Sometimes... just a couple pumps of the pedal and it would be fine.
Later we rigged a little 12V electric pump with a container of brake fluid, (aftermarket windshield washer reservoir and pump)
and pumped the fluid in from the bleeder screw. It works surprisingly good.
Think about it....
Air rises in fluid, so pumping the fluid in from the bottom pushes the air up and out the master.
It's messy but it works.
One and done.
Oh, drain the system completely first, "then" inject the fluid in from the bottom until the master reservoir is full.
There used to be a tool sold for this very purpose.
I think it was called the Phoenix Injector.
Basically a hand pump with a reservoir to hold the fluid.
Fittings for all the various bleed screws.
Same idea just a manual pump.
Edit;
We would "always" replace BOTH slave and master on any clutch job on these trucks.
Actually on any clutch job that had hydraulics, no matter what make it was,
but esp on the Rangers.
If it's time for a clutch, the master and slave are not long for this world anyways.
No matter how good they seemed to work before.
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I finally figured out why I couldn’t get the hydraulic clutch system to bleed on my 1999 Ranger.
The reservoir had a rubber insert that I thought was a filter to keep dirt out of the system. I kept the filter filled while I tried to bleed the system. The “filter” was not filter it was a rubber isolator to keep air out away from the fluid. When I removed the “filter” to clean it I found that there was no fluid under it.
As soon as I added oil it saw bubbles coming out of the line. Bleeding the system was easy after that.
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I finally figured out why I couldn’t get the hydraulic clutch system to bleed on my 1999 Ranger.
The reservoir had a rubber insert that I thought was a filter to keep dirt out of the system. I kept the filter filled while I tried to bleed the system. The “filter” was not filter it was a rubber isolator to keep air out away from the fluid. When I removed the “filter” to clean it I found that there was no fluid under it.
As soon as I added oil it saw bubbles coming out of the line. Bleeding the system was easy after that.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D I bought a Mercedes clutch mastercyl (aftermarket) that dont had the inlet drilled deep enough so no fluid enterd the master
that was a pain in the but to blead
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I had a bunch of those and never had the clutch fail, it was always the hydraulics failing. I just bought the master - throw-out kit. prefilled and ready to go. And always a new disc while I was in there. I still have two, a 93 and a 02 both untouched.
hope I just didn't jinx them.
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%*&# clutch bleeding. I gave up after many attempts and put a cable in my Ranger. Dealers told me they had issues and used a complete kit with master, slave and line already pre-bled. That wouldm't work for my V8 swap. Others told me of using a 50 gallon drum of fluid on hanging from the celing and a big catch pan and leaving it overnight.