FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: cleandan on November 09, 2023, 09:06:37 PM
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I am wondering which battery cut off system I should use for a car that gets little use.
This is a 45,000 mile 1999 Toyota Camry LE, V6 my daughter is using.
Where she lives she seldom drive the car, often leaving it sit for two months at a time...and the battery goes dead.
I am thinking a battery shut off that she can easily manipulate might be of good service in this situation.
What do you suggest I use for this application.
Thanks for any and all help.
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I have experience with the common race car switches, but for this, I would look into the switching battery terminals that I have seen marketed to marine/boat enthusiasts.
But you have to watch the prices, I have seen the same exact switch range from economical to extortion range.
The stock Toyota configuration uses a flat tab that bolts to a terminal that should easily adapt to something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/314662819876?
Haven't tried it, but it looks promising.
Alternatively, you might consider simply wiring in a battery tender type device and keeping it plugged in when sitting for extended periods.
That I do have experience with...
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Thanks for the reply.
Part of the problem is no usable electrical outlets near where the car is parked, which means no battery tender/charger type devices....and underground parking so no solar either.
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https://www.jula.se/catalog/bil-och-garage/biltillbehor/bilbatterier-och-tillbehor/batterianslutningar/batterifranskiljare-619628/?gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=dedf15681fa518044127702756c90d2b&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping%20%7C%20Underperformers&utm_term=4580290578240291&utm_content=Underperformers
I use this type you just loosen the green nob a little no cutting of cables to instal
just mount it to battery terminal and mount the cable to the device
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You should try and convince her to take it for a drive at least once a week.
All kinds of thing seize up when sitting. Even me.
Battery's still go flat even unhooked.
She may be better off getting a booster so she can start it when she needs to.
My daughter does the same thing. ;)
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I have used the "Knob" style referenced above on several cars over the years and it works well. I currently have em on car that I only use maybe once a month. The battery is always good when I need it. You can also get them at harbor freight.
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I have also used the green knob version battery disconnect on my 59 for a couple of years, kinda ugly with the hood open, but functional. But realistically, a 1999 vehicle shouldn`t have so much computer memory to run the battery dead in 2 months. My 99 F350 stays parked from October thru March or April, and the battery doesn`t go flat. Maybe you have another parasitic draw somewhere. On newer cars, the battery can run down pretty quickly, since they may have 10 or 15 computers that all have some memory function, that sap away battery power, but a 25 year old vehicle shouldn`t do that, IF the battery is good, and has no excessive current draw. although the battery disconnects do work, in most vehicles with digital clocks, radios, etc, you will lose the radio presets, and the clock with be flashing "12.00" every time that you unhook the battery. Not a huge deal, but a bit annoying.
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I learned something about this car over my recent visit.....It has an aftermarket alarm system.
I believe this system is the battery drain causing issues.
Unfortunately I was unable to remove the system during my stay due to limited time, limited tools, and even more limited space to do any type of work beyone airing up tires and cleaning windows......aaah the limitations of apartment living.
I installed a battery disconnect switch my kid can operate and understand and created a new problem.....The need to reset the alarm prior to starting the car.
Super Fun.
This reset is where I learned the car had an aftermarket alarm because when I installed the fully charged, load tested battery, there was nothing while turning the ignition switch.
As I was poking around checking various relays, connections and other simple "start" things I found the horn/alarm tucked neatly under the hood.....hmmmmm, this looks like an alarm system.
Sure enough.......Okay, where is the box, or reset?
Pretty soon I found the reset and was able to reset the system with the key in the run position.
The horn had been disabled so the alarm did not "alarm" but the four way flashers flashed and the ignition kill function still works.
This alarm will be fully removed at some point, but I am hesitant to have my kid take the car to a shop for this removal because I don't want a shop simply cutting wires to "remove" the alarm....I want that thing out of the electrical system 100% and done neatly so as not to cause issues.
If anyone knows of a chop with such skills and enough give a shit to actually do a good job I would greatly appreciate the help.
Arlington, VA area is where my kid lives.
I'm going to post this elsewhere on the forum to see what help I can find.
Happy Thanksgiving to everyone.
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Hi Dan.
I am very familiar with the described vehicle and have previously removed/restored to original MANY "crappy" aftermarket alarm installations.
Typically, the two key areas are to disconnect power to the aftermarket module (Usually stuffed up under the drivers side dash somewhere) and to locate the start bypass relay, and restore the circuit they have cut into. Usually that part requires one critical splice.
From there, the rest is careful removal of the remaining spaghetti nest of crap spliced into the original harness. Some are installed far better than others. The best are usually unacceptably bad.
I'd offer to do it, and am "only" about an hour north of her- but...
A: Thats a driving route I avoid unless absolutely necessary, and-
B: I am severely backlogged at all times and really don't take on "side jobs" at this point. (In my mind I am semi-retired. In reality I am swamped, old and tired.)
IOW, I don't 'need' any more work.
If need outweighs all of the above, contact me off board and I will provide contact info and make this happen.
(And yeah, I am assuredly reasonable, honest and don't gaffe my clients.)
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Thanks Mark.
Message sent to you.