FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Urgefor on September 27, 2023, 03:42:47 PM
-
Not sure where exactly to ask this, so my apologies if this board is not the correct place for this question. After searching through the vendor and private classified boards and not coming up with anything useful, I decided to ask if anyone happens to have any SCAT stroker kits on hand. Any information is appreciated.
-
Few - if any - folks keep them in inventory anymore.
Many key components are on perpetual backorder - with backorders orders piling up then a big "load" showing up, leading to a jam up as we try to assemble and balance.
As it stand "today" I have cast cranks and steel cranks.
That was not true two weeks ago.
Might not be true two weeks from now.
Should be able to get rods right now.
Pistons are an "order and pray" deal - depending on bore, compression, and phase of the moon...
I own the balancer - so that's not a problem, but manpower is. See sentence #2 above.
-
Not sure where exactly to ask this, so my apologies if this board is not the correct place for this question. After searching through the vendor and private classified boards and not coming up with anything useful, I decided to ask if anyone happens to have any SCAT stroker kits on hand. Any information is appreciated.
If Barry does have cranks right now and has one that meets your stroke and material needs then I'd say get the crankshaft right away. Lots of rod options out there for the 2.200 journal depending on what your application is gonna be. Sure, you will haveta order pistons and then have all the balancing work done but atleast it's in your hands and you will be able to have first hand knowledge of what delays with parts/ machining you may have and not have to constantly be contacting someone that may be putting a stroker kit together for you wondering if and when the parts come in. Put together your own stroker kit. I bet it would come together quicker in the end.
JMO.
-
What stroke ? I have a FT 391 steel crank machined for FE with 3.99 stroke, 2.20 journal.
Never used, PM me if interested.
-
I was thinking more along the lines of a 4.25 stroke.
-
Cranks, rods, and pistons are pretty plentiful right now. IMO, one of the best combos is a Scat cast crank, Scat I-beam rods, and Mahle pistons/rings. Hard to beat.
-
After perusing through some of the dyno results, I saw that most 6k+ engines were using the forged cranks with a few exceptions. Having seen Brent's Project Junky Junk 352 Iteration #8 results, I am running with the assumption the Scat cast crank (4.25 stroke) will work for a naturally aspirated (with no power adders) build targeting 550ish hp with 6.5 to 7k rpm max. Thoughts?
-
You should be just fine in that power and rpm range, especially N/A. The factory cast cranks are tougher than some give credit for. The Scat seem pretty decent as well. I am planning on tickling 8,000+ with my factory junk. I know others have pushed them a good bit higher before. RPM, balance, bearing clearance, journal diameter, rod/piston weight, compression, material composition, power adder, etc. all have an affect on it.
-
After perusing through some of the dyno results, I saw that most 6k+ engines were using the forged cranks with a few exceptions. Having seen Brent's Project Junky Junk 352 Iteration #8 results, I am running with the assumption the Scat cast crank (4.25 stroke) will work for a naturally aspirated (with no power adders) build targeting 550ish hp with 6.5 to 7k rpm max. Thoughts?
Scat cast crank and Scat I-beam rods would be perfectly fine at that level.
-
A number of us have ran 9 second 1/4 mile times with 50+ year old factory Ford cast iron crankshafts, without any failures, many of us with stickshift combinations, where dropping the clutch at 6000 RPM for years is common. I seem to recall that most , if not all of Bob Gliddens 351C Pro Stock engines ran Ford iron crankshafts. Don`t forget, the majority of factory 427 FEs came from Ford with cast iron crankshafts.
-
Rory beat me to it. Yes, all the 351C runners ran OEM Ford iron cranks back then. Maybe cut for smaller rod journals, lightened, etc. but they still were Ford cores. If Glidden for example did run an aftermarket crank (for a longer stroke) I doubt he did so for long as NHRA Rules killed large(r) CID engines. Match racing might have been a different matter however.
-
Kuntz used a ton of iron cranks in his FE engines back in the day. Everything from standard journal to offset ground/stroked, 400m rods and 8000 rpm and they lived just fine. Oh and many FE's upwards of 700hp with ford iron blocks back in the day. One of the Best FE engine builders ever in "my" opinion.
RIP Jim....
-
No doubt Ford stuff is tough. For the stroker though, I'd put, and have put, many 4.25 SCATs in the high 500s and up to about 600 at peaks under 6200. I would not do it with an Eagle just for warning, and as Brent said, the I beam 6.70 BBC rods are tough too.
Unless you plan on shifitng above 6200 or so repeatedly, I'd go with cast SCAT and a good crank, use I-beams or Molnars to save weight, don't use a SCAT H, the weight will offset any strength (if any)
Easy as Sunday morning :)
-
The RPM range I made note of was more of a top speed rpm vs a shift rpm and definitely not something set in stone. I based it off of a gear/tire/transmission combination I'm thinking of using.
Drivetrain info (2.3kRPM@60MPH 5th gear, 6.5kRPM@122MPH 4th gear):
4.29 gears
27" tires
TREMEC TKX 5-Speed TCET18085
Should be a fun street/strip combo. :)
-
How would a Scat crank hold up if its shifted at 7500 RPM or more with deep gears (4.72 to 5.12s), light pistons, light clutch assembly, sticky drag slicks.
I'm thinking the Super Stock cars to that a lot. Do they run ford cranks or after market forged ones?
-
How would a Scat crank hold up if its shifted at 7500 RPM or more with deep gears (4.72 to 5.12s), light pistons, light clutch assembly, sticky drag slicks.
I'm thinking the Super Stock cars to that a lot. Do they run ford cranks or after market forged ones?
The more stroke, the more flex, but, in a 427 or other cross bolted block, you may have a chance, but you'd need to go as light as you can on the rods , pistons and pins. The extra 500 bucks for a forged piece seems cheap :)
-
How about 360 crank is it really forged?
I have a factory block headed for a boost.
It's a street oriented build most likely blow thru carb and single turbo, I know it'll be on borrowed time on a factory block but I'll give it a try.
I don't mind buying whole rotating set, but minimum being forged pistons and rods.
Question being how much whichever crank will hold?
Factory cast? Forged? Scat cast? Scat forged?