FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: cleandan on May 15, 2023, 11:48:06 AM
-
Hey everyone, I'm working on a 1967 Shelby wearing the Kelsey Hayes Magstar wheels.
The wheel is being used for the spare in the trunk and it is a leaker.
It leaks between the outer hoop and the inner hub mating surface.
The wheels have the center hub bolted to the outer hoop.
Do you know of anyone who repairs wheels like this?
I tried a local company called "Pioneer Rim and Wheel" and they said they won't touch a wheel like this.
I might be able to take the wheel apart myself and seal things up, but it might be smart to let experience rule the day with this project.
Thanks and have a great day.
-
I've sealed up multi-piece wheels before with RTV, like the Right Stuff. In fact, years ago when I bought a set of Centerline Champ 500 wheels, which were 3 piece, they were sealed the same way. Just clean the wheel well and run a bead along the inside (tire side) of the rim, where the pieces meet.
-
Rtv the seam then paint the inside of the wheel with a good coat of oil base paint or truck bed paint.
-
Same - the 2.5x17 front Centerlines on the dragster leaked like hell. I pulled the tires and use clear silicone to caulk the middle seam. A lot of it. Put an end to that leak thing right quick.
-
does anyone still make the rubber band that goes around the wheel like was used on spoke wheels like the old cragars spokes?
-
What do you think about using enamel paint as the sealer?
Some of the early Mercury outboard engines used enamel paint as the case seal, flow it in wet, put things together, torque, let dry, sealed.
I am wondering if I could flow some thinned enamel paint into the rim parting line?
I am not certain the wheel would not move enough to crack the paint though, eventhough it would be very thin and pretty tough in that area.
Currently my thought is to take the tire off, clean the rim super well, flow the paint into the partition lines, let dry for a few days, remount the tire and see how things work.
But I am also wondering if I could leave the tire on the rim and pull a vacuum on the tire to suck the paint into the partition lines?
-
What do you think about using enamel paint as the sealer?
Some of the early Mercury outboard engines used enamel paint as the case seal, flow it in wet, put things together, torque, let dry, sealed.
I am wondering if I could flow some thinned enamel paint into the rim parting line?
You could but......
I am not certain the wheel would not move enough to crack the paint though, eventhough it would be very thin and pretty tough in that area.
I think heat would eventually cause any paint to crack off/chip as paint has about zero elasticity.
Currently my thought is to take the tire off, clean the rim super well, flow the paint into the partition lines, let dry for a few days, remount the tire and see how things work.
It would work short term. It's the longer term that's questionable
But I am also wondering if I could leave the tire on the rim and pull a vacuum on the tire to suck the paint into the partition lines?
See above.....
We do know that various sealants as noted do work as they are flexible and don't dry out. JMO!
-
So this wheel is just going to be used for the spare tire? I wonder if some of that "as seen on TV" Flex Seal rubberized spray sealer would do the job? Last year I bought a set of 4 80s vintage Centerline Pro Stock wheels for my Fairmont (to "update" the late 70s vintage Centerline Auto Drags that had been on the car for 35 years), and the tires wouldn`t hold air very well, so I sprayed some soapy water on the tires and wheels, and found all the wheels leaking where the outer shells and the centers were riveted together. So I dug and scraped out all the old RTV sealant that was in the joints between the inner and outer halves, and applied new RTV. So far, so good. No idea if a similar repair is viable on Mag Stars.
-
just put a tube in it, problem solved
-
Googled a picture of a magstar, looks like the center is bolted/riveted to the rim
then the leak must be in the boltholes. Remove bolts and put some RTV on the bolts
and under the bolthead
and put it back and torque the bolts one at the time. If you dont want to run a tube
-
>just put a tube in it, problem solved
Tried a motorcycle tube in the fronts - that did NOT work. Bought $1250 in new billet wheels and $250 in fresh tires - problem solved.
-
I'm with Rory no way I would mess with the rivets, I would put a little of the flex seal around each rivet and test it to see if it works and if it does then paint a band around all of them. Since the leak is going from inside out I would think any sealing would have the best chance for success if from the inside.
-
Pretty sure MagStars came riveted. If these are bolted someone had them apart, perhaps to rechrome the rims. You could just put sealer around the bolts. Chances are the centers are moving because the bolts don't locate it like the rivets would.