FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: fairlaniac on April 01, 2023, 10:11:15 AM
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I'm installing my rear main seal this morning. All seems well, thought I'd try the Dow Corning 732. I had difficulty putting the bearing cap in place with the slightly lubed (732) side seals. It was getting frustrating and the 732 is getting pushed around on the block sides. So after a few attempts I grabbed another rear seal kit. I chose the Fel-Pro kit that is about 14 years old. Immediately I noticed a difference. The 14 year old seals (never opened) were about .012" thinner. The distance between the block and cap. I also noticed one of the new Fel-Pro side seals looked odd. It had a slight "hook" on the one side. It was thicker too. See the pictures. One is .234 thick and the other .243 with hook. The other pack of new side seals are also .234. So I used the 14 year old .022 thick seals with 732. However my confidence is shattered with the B.S. I think I'm ok and finished the installation. I'll let it cure a day or two and try Jay's test of filling the oil well and let it sit to see if it holds or leaks.
BTW, the 732 tube exploded open at the bottom as I was concentrating squeezing sealant out of the nozzle. My toothpaste never burst open. :-)
11:00AM, maybe it's time to be done for the day and grab a beer, a large one!
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/sideseal1.jpg (http://www.fairlanet.com/images/sideseal1.jpg)
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/sideseal2.jpg (http://www.fairlanet.com/images/sideseal2.jpg)
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That's why I don't use side seals or nails. It takes too much time messing around with getting them to fit correctly and every block is different it seems, including aftermarket blocks.
But FWIW, it's easiest when you do use the side seals, to get the main cap in and torqued down, then lube the seals up and push them into place. It would be a complete fiasco to try to install the cap with the seals in place.
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My Sad Sack version:
My 1979 (special ordered new) F-150 4x4 / short wheelbase Styleside / NP435 / 4.11 Detroit Locker / 428 / Black Jack headers / FE rear sump 4x4 pan / modified Ford windage tray, requires engine removal for bottom end block service.
Pulled engine for a new rubber rear main seal (with nails). Trouble, frustration, impatience, but I got-er-dun. Reinstalled, started up, stream of oil running on the ground!
Pulled engine again - you guessed it - seal was in backwards! Grrr!
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Yes Doug first put the cap on then put your side seals in as Brent said. I put a smidge on the round seal were they meet (careful not to get it on the sealing part). Then alittle along the back of the block on both sides of the cap so when it sits in place it will seal the back wall. Key is for it to be dry and clean. It can’t be too much of each. Crap also before you put cap on I put a light swipe were side seals go even though you are gonna put more on when you install the side seals. It’s one of those things were you take your time but hurry up.
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I installed my main cap and side seals and never had a leak, worked perfect.
Problem is the last one I did was on my tunnel port motor sometime in the late ‘90’s and now some 25 years later I can’t remember what I did! 😆
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Well, the seal is in and RTV cured. I tried Jay Brown’s test of filling the well in the rear main And letting it sit, it’s been 11 hours and a little bit has drained to the inside of the block out of the oil gap between crank and main bearings. So far so good. I decided to, stay confident and put the other caps on. Crank rotates smooth as butter.
https://youtube.com/shorts/zNVwq3MkSpA?feature=share (https://youtube.com/shorts/zNVwq3MkSpA?feature=share)
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👍