FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: 482supersnake on December 12, 2022, 12:17:11 PM
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I'm thinking about what starter would work best for my 427 build. Would a standard Ford rebuild work fine on a 10.5-1 motor? Or would something like a Powermaster mini work better? I've seen where some of the aftermarket starters require some grinding on the block which I would rather not do. Is there any of the aftermarket starters that don't require grinding?
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I bought a RobMc starter yrs ago for my 427 Galaxie. Most of the rebuilds couldn`t take the strain. They were realy helpful when I couldn't get the starter to engage right. The sent me a correct shim pack to stop the binding and all was well. My63 has factory long cast iron manifolds so there is a lot of heatsoak when you shut it off. The starter spun the motor over with no problems. I will be buying another in the near future. Well worth the money.
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RobbMc makes the best FE starters:
https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html
<https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html>
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look at 428 marauder 427 hot start problem reply 14 -oct/tech date how to use oem 1st class i have used oem and powermaster( they have several types)- oem type-trick for drag and 1000s highway miles 66 fairlane with jardine and big race hooker headers-trick+shield will last very long min-expense dif. check starter drive depth in flywheel no matter what you use johb- oldiron
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I'm "meh" on Powermaster. I threw one of their starters away last year. It had been unreliable for a bit. I also detest the "universal swivel plate" design they used on that SBF unit. The screws to secure the plate in any position were small and tended to work loose even with Loctite on them. then the body would flop around, and off it'd come to fix. I have summit no-name units that outlasted that one, plus they use multiple holes to position the unit and after you find the clocking you need they don't move anymore. RobbMc would be my first choice for FE for sure. I would for sure us a modern PMGR unit - does more work using less power, very reliable.
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482supersnake, what is the application? With a 65 and later starter and 184 tooth ring gear, I have used OE Ford full size starters on my 12.0-1 compression, and my 427 with 11.0-1 compression. Never had an issue, other than a few pounds heavier than a "mini" starter, which is usually based on a Japanese Denso or Hitachi starter, originally designed for a 4 cylinder or V6 engine.
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I have used an MSD switched to a Powermaster because the MSD solenoid seemed to be sticking. It did the same thing. Powermaster makes the MSD btw. I spoke to Powermaster and they insisted I go to a larger gage cable. I changed the cable it solved the problem. I have a 462 with 11.2 CR. I seem to recall the starter had 4.4 HP... No grinding and no issues with FPA headers.
I had never heard of the RobbMc starter (been under a rock). I like it a LOT. I will try one if I have any issues but I am happy for now.
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Going to regret saying this I suppose next spring.
I have had good luck with a Powermaster Mastertorque Starters 9606 in a 445 10:1 with FPA headers, no grinding, clocking was valuable.
Seems like a little beast and does see some heat!
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Ive run regular AutoZone rebuilds in all three hot rods. The truck is 10.5/1 428CJ. Starts fine all the time and has headers(no heat wrap either). Only after like 20 yrs did I finally put a new one in because it was starting to struggle when hot. The blower car is just 9/1 390 so it is easy on starters.
The wagon got a Robb starter only because the autozone started to struggle with 12.5/1 500ci FE. It would start it but got to really start to grunt when warm. I gave in and spent the big bucks. Ive heard all the horror stories with mini starters. 2 yrs and still fine. I ordered the nose support bearing version.
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Thanks for the responses. I had forgotten about the Robbmc starter. My main concern is about having to grind on the block. I might try a stock rebuilt starter first. There is a local company that does starter rebuilds that I will probably use. If that doesn't hold up then I'll get the Robbmc.
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A oem starter with a ROLLER bearing installed in the nose starts my 505 12.5 easy and my 13+ 385s currently using powermaster for a little extra clearance for the big adjustable race hookers-no starter works if you do not have BIG cables and good LOAD tested battery NOT volts but loaded amps!! -starting in 1967 used roller/jardine headers/big cable-ALWAYS spins good-current use powermaster number i think is 9506 always check for FULL tooth engagement JS