FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: blykins on November 30, 2022, 07:37:18 AM
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I'm wondering how hard it is to seal up the breather holes without welding or damaging the chrome.
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Nope. But Brent I can say I've never seen a OEM tin valve cover used with a vacuum pump or dry sump. I think that any stamped steel cover would be less effective than a cast (pot metal) due to overall rigidity and better sealing at the cover/head side.
That said, spot welding from the inside with a closely fitting plate to totally seal the opening may minimize damage to the chrome but even that is iffy. Would still have that ugly hole. Suggest finding a rubber/plastic plug (Dorman?) to fill the hole instead.
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The rubber plug is a good idea. Is it a round hole or a twist cap? You can also silicone gasket to cover and then silicone cover and gasket assembly to block. Should seal. Just a little tougher than using the cast covers.
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They will be twist caps. That makes it hard because the hole isn't exactly a hole, it's a keyed hole.....harder to cover and seal.
This is on my Tunnel Port and I'm trying to keep it looking period correct.
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eBay has some chrome pentroof valve covers with no holes.
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Never been a big fan of the pentroofs, but it's an option. Another option is a pair of M/T covers with no holes, but they're getting harder and harder to find in good condition.
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Pentroofs are definitely period correct for a Tunnel Port setup
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I have a soft spot for the baldies and they dont have any holes. Not period correct like meangene says but you cant deny the cool look.
just gives it that stock look.
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Never been a big fan of the pentroofs, but it's an option. Another option is a pair of M/T covers with no holes, but they're getting harder and harder to find in good condition.
I have a few sets of M/T no hole covers Brent if you decide to go that route.
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Brent
Why not use a twist on cap with ears, like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Trans-Dapt-4804-Chrome-Twist-Oil/dp/B000CQ20Y6/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_w=TyIHb&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=R0XZ0ZPCMNBCR23BY21C&pd_rd_wg=BXPV8&pd_rd_r=e13005ca-bb3a-4757-94ff-58125322f586&pd_rd_i=B000CQ20Y6&psc=1
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Jim, that's certainly an option, as long as the gasket/seal is tight. It doesn't take much to compromise the seal, sometimes I have to silicone around intake bolts, etc.
There are some pictures floating around of a bunch of Tunnel Port crate engines at Holman Moody's shop and all of them have chrome PBF valve covers with the big cookie cutter oil caps. So, I think I'll try one of the cookie cutter caps or a cap like you specified first and see where that puts me. If it doesn't work, I'll probably hit Tindle up for some MT covers.
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Brent: If Jack Tindel does not come up with a set, checked and I've got 3 sets here with the knockouts still intact.
Richard >>> FERoadster
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I really wish I could buy either Ford Racing or even ProForm cask aluminum covers without the oil holes. I tried to get a seal using a vacuum pump and keyed hole covers and I never felt I got it done. I was about to try some standoffs that required drilling around the holes when I found some NOS late 60s 351C covers that were undrilled.
I used this for the cover with a more precise drilled round hole: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52230/10002/-1
Similar - https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=SUM-440332
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=681-MBR0011-10AN&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1
You might could use something similar with a machined washer under & over the cover to provide a basis to seal. Not really old school.
Another option I considered: https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?q=497-1131&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1