FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: AlanCasida on June 02, 2022, 08:57:55 PM
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I am adding electric cooling fans to my '66 Galaixe so I need to upgrade my charging system. I have a one wire 140A unit (Ford/GM hybrid) on my '65 Mustang Drag-n-drive car and it works fine but I like the idea of a 3G 130A unit from a 95 Mustang because it is pretty much an of the shelf unit. If I go with the one wire it will be the same as my Mustang so I could get a common spare for both.
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I like the 3g, have one on my 36 coupe and one on a wood Mizer sawmill, both works well.
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Another vote for the Ford 3G alternator. I swapped a 3G into my 59, replacing the factory 30 Amp generator. pretty simple to hook up, the old voltage regulator can be removed, and it has 130 amps. Bolted right up to the 428, using OE factory Ford alternator brackets, and although not likely a concern on a drag car, the factory GEN dash warning light works normally, and unlike most 1 wires, no need to rev the engine to make the alternator "kick in" and start charging. Plus, if the alternator was to fail, it is a commonly available part, mine is for a 1995 5.0 Mustang, which is dimensionally identical to the older Ford alternators.
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Btdt. 3g
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3G with 3 wire hookup. Simple, reliable. Only one wire here in the bitty 50A I use on the dragster. I use a 3G elsewhere. Updated the old 1993 F-350 with one also, replacing the fire prone weak sister G2 that was on it. The voltmeter went from waving like an oil pressure gauge to a steady indicator LOL.
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The issue I had with the 3G alternator was the bolt hole for the tension adjusting bolt was not threaded. Where my alternator is mounted there is no way I could put tension on the belt and tighten a nut/bolt setup. I found these ribbed carriage bolts that I was able to press one into the hole and put a nut on it and it worked out pretty good.
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ribbed carriage bolts that I was able to press one into the hole and put a nut on it and it worked out pretty good. where did you find that bolt ? that could be the solution to a lot of things
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ribbed carriage bolts that I was able to press one into the hole and put a nut on it and it worked out pretty good. where did you find that bolt ? that could be the solution to a lot of things
I got them off of Ebay from a place called B & K Fasteners and Metals.
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Go With The 3G The Benefit That Makes It Perfect Is That It Puts Out Higher Amps at A Very Low Driven Speed. Therefore, When You Will Need It Most, To Drive The Electric Fans, Usually At Idle, It Is Up To, And Efficiently Doing Its Job. If You Run An Electric Fuel Pump, Fuel Injection, Or An Electric Water Pump, All The Better! A 3G Makes The "1 Wire Tractor Alternator" Pretty Much Obsolete, And Like Mentioned, Is Available Pretty Much Anywhere There Is A Parts Store. Wiring Is Not That Difficult, A Creative Installer Can Use The Existing harness If Wanted, And As A Previous Commenter Stated, The Charging Light Will Even Work Properly.
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Don’t those alternators have regulators.
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Don’t those alternators have regulators.
If you are refering to a 3G, they have a built in voltage regulator, like most later model vehicles have.
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I am adding electric cooling fans to my '66 Galaixe so I need to upgrade my charging system. I have a one wire 140A unit (Ford/GM hybrid) on my '65 Mustang Drag-n-drive car and it works fine but I like the idea of a 3G 130A unit from a 95 Mustang because it is pretty much an of the shelf unit. If I go with the one wire it will be the same as my Mustang so I could get a common spare for both.
Been floggin on a 3G in the red truck for a few years now. Out of a '95 Mustang GT. I converted it to a true 1 wire by swapping the voltage regulator to this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384397023841?hash=item597fd91a61:g:A1kAAOSwUkxhQnxu&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8GuK2f4RBQ%2BOJ6IjRP7YPZBCT4IAIBN8CzkWnoOVzLEdKvpfkr%2FYTw5MsniP1G3a9A62x92qkjRv6BQdmzXAt6ClYn7JaNXO1%2BoTsiCtIZySd8X3lTeY2%2FJb%2FPiJVVHLsV%2B9xS2wmuWuh4FY54xvvti8KhgzBxzJ0BN7TilBbqfc2wmr455N%2BuAoK2SrVjtj1oE9iXV%2BXsGezg4aFFVYDRZV3aDQ%2FE88x39ehPz0GSvPQ3aXF6eCKx5avwGKbRtwd4o9ezix%2BFmvwiSyoFjnuNBySgdktA3js5mMqVYEYw7q6AScjjN0Itr1OnIlRY7%2F4A%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMgKztlqdg
I realize it's not an "off the shelf" unit now but it made for a super clean installation. It runs everything at an idle (including a pair of mid 90's Taurus fans) with very little voltage drop.
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Rory I was looking and it looked like I would need what KMcCallah was showing with the regulator. I would rather not do that do you have a part number for the proper alternator. I looked up 95 mustang and it looks not right.
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Specifically for trucks but has a lot of alternator ID stuff in the thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/942250-just-did-a-3g-upgrade.html
You can use almost any pre-mod motor 3G, but they have 3 common outputs - not all are the 130amp. If it's a Rockauto or other generic alternator on occasion I've had to shim the pulley when using the pully off the 1/2G. The OEM Ford's I haven't had to shim.
If your wiring is in good shape you can buy a "dummy" regulator from PA Performance that fits most 60s/70s 1/2G applications and turns the 3G into a plug and play install. If you have the 130 amp you probably want to run a charge wire directly to the battery and bypass the ammeter. In the 67-79 pickups the 95amp ones seem to work fine with all the stock wiring. Never risked the 130 without a new charge wire so can't say what would happen but I'm guessing you'd let the smoke out pretty quick.
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Rory I was looking and it looked like I would need what KMcCallah was showing with the regulator. I would rather not do that do you have a part number for the proper alternator. I looked up 95 mustang and it looks not right.
Not sure why you would "need" a different voltage regulator than the internal regulator already in the alternator. It is only 3 wires, (4 if you count the 3" long white wire that just loops from the alternator to the regulator. I just bought the correct plug with 3 wires , from NAPA.
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Rory I was looking and it looked like I would need what KMcCallah was showing with the regulator. I would rather not do that do you have a part number for the proper alternator. I looked up 95 mustang and it looks not right.
Not sure why you would "need" a different voltage regulator than the internal regulator already in the alternator. It is only 3 wires, (4 if you count the 3" long white wire that just loops from the alternator to the regulator. I just bought the correct plug with 3 wires , from NAPA.
I got a 3G alternator for a 95 5.0 Mustang and got a Powermaster adapter harness and it works fine so far. The only thing I didn't care for was there was not enough threads on the shaft to use a lock washer on the pulley so I put some blue locktite on the threads and it should be ok. Also, I can still use the spare one-wire unit I have for my drag-n-drive Mustang as a back up, I just hook up the battery wire and I'm good to go.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-131
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Rory I was looking and it looked like I would need what KMcCallah was showing with the regulator. I would rather not do that do you have a part number for the proper alternator. I looked up 95 mustang and it looks not right.
No, you don't. You can scarf either part of the harness out of the donor vehicle or buy the pigtail online. The red/green "exciter" wire that tell the internal regulator Key On is the same color in the 90's cars. Yes - Ford used the same color wire for that connection over 30 years. Yellow is "sense" and on an older car goes to the same post on the solenoid as the main power out. It's a load sensing input for the regulator. Then just the big power wire, 8 gauge at least. On the 93 F-350 I used a 90A breaker in between the alternator and the battery just for extra safety since the truck has big demands from lights, trailer lights, AC, ignition, etc.
On the race car, the main power goes back to the battery in the trunk, the red/green from ignition on, yellow to main battery power connection on the power distribution panel.
Also - most of the 3Gs I've scarfed use a 10mm bolt in the adjuster boss. I just drill/tap that to 3/8. Around here, most yards have one or two shipping containers that they pile alternators in. So you can just sort through the piles pretty easy. Last one I bought was $45. And if you care, all the main line auto places will test the unit for free. Also note these come in "small case" and "large case". I usually have to put a thin shim on the shaft for a v-belt pully to make it work on a 3G 6 rib style unit. Alternately, you could mill maybe .050 or so off the face of a 3G around the front bearing boss.
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You can also get new pigtails for the alternator side cheap everywhere in case the picknpull donor has a bad connector/harness:
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Alternator-Harness-Connector-Stator/dp/B08BPJFZD4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=37GGIUPCR6ZXK&keywords=ford+3g+alternator+connector&qid=1654642864&sprefix=ford+3g+alternator+connector%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-4
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Ok I get it I had just thought that there was just the bat wire going to the battery. I guess in some cases that is true. But it is nice that I can go to my regular part store or boneyard and get one. While my motor is out I think I’m gonna do this being I have the double fans and electric pump in tank. Would also like to get a high torque starter but that’s another story in itself. I want one that just bolts in and doesn’t have to be adjusted.
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You can also get new pigtails for the alternator side cheap everywhere in case the picknpull donor has a bad connector/harness:
https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Alternator-Harness-Connector-Stator/dp/B08BPJFZD4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=37GGIUPCR6ZXK&keywords=ford+3g+alternator+connector&qid=1654642864&sprefix=ford+3g+alternator+connector%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-4
Those are the same wiring plugs that I bought from my local NAPA store. Makes for a factory looking installation.
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The Ford 3G is a good unit for sure. My Comet build has a new Powermaster 155amp 1 wire 3G that I expect should work well. It is specifically mentioned for FE swaps in their catalog.
That said, I've used Powermaster 100amp 12si GM one wire alternators for the past 30 or so years on my FE projects without a hitch. They also fit on the stock Ford brackets just fine. I have had Ford guys call me out on the chev charger, but I reply that I have many more Volvo parts on my car than GM.
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The stockers are pretty robust. Consider that the small case on my Falcon will see near 15,000 RPM twice every pass. Haven't been in it in a couple of years, about time to replace the bearings as a precaution. I've never yet had a working junkyard 3G fail. You fish a decent looking on out of the pile and you can be pretty sure it'll work.
I'm not a Powermaster fan. Owned that, tossed that. Local guy I get parts from won't touch them. The "Mitsibushi" single wire clone I got from him that I use on the dragster was $100 cheaper than a PM and has worked just fine.