FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: My427stang on March 06, 2022, 04:23:13 PM
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Looking to see what everyone is using for truck headers successfully with aftermarket heads, without slotting holes.
A picture and associated part number of Sandersons would be awesome too if someone running, can't really figure out what I am seeing on their website, looks like two drivers side headers LOL
I have a set of the low ports here, but if I slot it starts hitting the pan rail, if I have to reflange I can, but same thing will happen with the tubes.
Looking for options because FPA not making 4x4 FE headers...despite Stan absolutely not being retired or closing! :o
Thanks!
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hi ross i just ordered a set from jegs should be here this week ordering stuff i will not use for awhile but -- as it seems less and less is available -- rat hole stuff!-- this is jegs branded and pn 30075 when the part gets here i could measure port size / bolt height etc but will not go on my 66 dually for some time - i think hooker lists headers 2x+ the price if available jegs shows 8/10 sets in stock
good luck--john
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I can't help with 4wd Headers, but will say Hooker for a 2WD Bump are very nice but they follow the "truck ports" VERY closely and are very finicky about gaskets.
RobRoy did a fairly comprehensive study of 2wd headers on Fordification, but not sure how much will correspond to different models.
Agree that better pictures of all the Sanderson Truck headers would be nice. I never did figure out what precisely was different about the camper special versions.
Anyway..
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Not an F250, but on my 4WD F100 I went from Hedman to Sanderson Shorty F427 headers. The change was necessary to accomodate the exhaust ports on the BBM heads I installed.
I have no useful insights into relative performance, but they fit well, seal completely, and look good in there.
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I am sure the 4x4 headers are different, but on my 74 F350 (2wd), I had a pair of long tube Hedmans on the truck for about 12 years, only replaced them since they were looking so crusty, although when I removed them, they were still really solid, and likely would have been fine for a few more years. Since my local speed shop did not have another set of Hedmans in stock, I bought a set of Flowtechs, which fit as well, and as far as I am aware, on still on the truck, which I sold to another racer in 2014. My 390 was running the D2 heads.
Regarding the Camper Special dilema, another racer had a really nice 68 F250 Camper Special, and when he tried to install the same model of Hedmans that I had used before, they would not fit, as his CS truck had a different (Bendix?) power steering box, with a large angled "nub" sticking out of the box, that prevented the header tubes from clearing , which was not an issue with my F350, which had a Ford PS box. I had also heard some some headers would hit the front sway bar, which is different on a Camper Special, in that it bolts inside the 2 front radius rods, similar to how a Chevelle or FOX Mustang does, but on my 74, I had installed a Camper Special front sway bar, and neither the Hedmans nor FlowTechs were anywhere close to interfering.
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Hi ross Hows it going?
On another subject do you have a pair of A/C PULLEYS FOR A 68 390 BLOCK. i NEED ONLY THE WP 2 SHEVE AND THE THREE SHEVE CRANK PULLEYS .
ALL THE BEST
LARRY IN DENVEF
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received F150 truck headers part 30075 -3/8 thick flange- port 2- in ht 1-5/8width primary 1- 3/4 collector 2 7/8 reducer/adapter > 2 1/2-included gasket- port/adapter bolts - welds clean --pass 3/4 inch good port exit- driver port tighter turn -- bottom flange bolt 5/8 slot -center to bottom of port 7/8to1in weld thickness difference- $185 add $15 other stuff @ $ 200 free ship -- no current way to check fit but looks good--seems to be solid buy if you can use JEGS stuff
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John, could you measure from center of top bolt hole to floor of the header port?.
Any brand is fine, trying to make sure they seal against the head. I have a an unknown set here and they also have slotted bottom holes but the top is not slotted and doesn't give me enough room to raise the header
Larry, sorry, I don't have anything. Hope you are well too
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w/o getting metric ? top bolt hole seems to be just under 1/2 inch and average center to bottom about 2 5/8 --primary thickness is on jegs site -old school-- headers feel good/chunky- not like tin-the 3/8 flange looks to stand some cuts for added fit or touch up weld to move a little to get to most flow or fit--- but anything w/b better than iron logs!! with pretty good price---seems like you should be able to move around a little to fit and get good seal -- john
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P.S. with a good carbide cutter w 1/4 shank on high speed air tool should be able to slot the top hole and match the bottom slot for more adjustment -- been there--good luck